critique my 32x48 plan

eightlitermopar · Jan 17, 2013

Ok, so I am in the planning stages for my garage which I want to build in Florida.

I hope to have permits secured and have this started by next winter.

I wanted the garage big enough to fit two cars deep comfortably. At first I wanted an upper loft, but to reduce cost and to actually make this a “reality”, it will have a pitched interior ceiling instead.

The size is 32 wide / 48 deep. The concrete block walls will be 2 feet with 10 foot walls on top; total wall height 12 feet. The covered concrete portion on the side is 10 feet from the garage.

2x6 framing, insulated and sheet rock. Complete electrical. I am still not done with complete planning, but I may put a closed tool room inside as well.

My goal is to do this as I go, avoid loans, and do as much as I possibly can.

This means I will have the site prepped, concrete slab laid and 2 foot walls done by someone who really knows what they are doing (read: concrete-not me)

I want to build the walls myself, but will hire help to place approved trusses in place.

I can finish it and do the finishing touches as I go (windows, siding, garage doors, exterior doors, etc)

Critique my plan, and give me any opinions on my build. I ask here because I have never built a garage before, and I know a lot of people on here have.

What do you think?

Eightlitermopar

JC23 · Jan 17, 2013

Whatcha gonna do with that open, outside area? That can be space used for garage stuff.

eightlitermopar · Jan 17, 2013

I've always liked the look of the covered porch, this is why I incorporated this into my design.

TurboCup87 · Jan 17, 2013

Everyone says that they wished that they had more space. Consider incorporating that area into your enclosed garage space.

blk00ss · Jan 17, 2013

I would go a hair higher on the height.

larry_g · Jan 17, 2013

One mistake I made in my building was having the OH door to close to the side walls. You do not state the size of your OH door but make sure you have some room on the side to put some storage and still open a car door. Maybe narrow the divider 'tween the doors and move them closer together.

lg
no neat sig line

eightlitermopar · Jan 17, 2013

larry_g said:
One mistake I made in my building was having the OH door to close to the side walls. You do not state the size of your OH door but make sure you have some room on the side to put some storage and still open a car door. Maybe narrow the divider 'tween the doors and move them closer together.

lg
no neat sig line

As it sits now, the doors are 10' x 10' and are 4 feet from the outside wall.

There is a 4 foot gap from the side, a 4 foot section in the middle, and 4 foot on the other side for the other door. Is this enough? Should I look at another door size?

I was also thinking of the roll-up doors so I don't have to deal with the overhead tracks.

thanks for the feedback guys!

eight

DIC · Jan 18, 2013

I would rather have one 16' or 18' door with more room on the sides.. But thats just me.

tomroblee · Jan 18, 2013

I like the looks of your plan. I built a 36 x 48 with a 18 wide and a 10 wide door. Depending on where your house is located you might consider the location of your man door and/or adding a second man door. Depending on the orientation of your building you might want to consider adding more doors or window for cross ventilation

santagary · Jan 18, 2013

If the leanto is a porch, you'd better screen it in to ward off those FL mosquitoes

eightlitermopar · Jan 18, 2013

tomroblee said:
I like the looks of your plan. I built a 36 x 48 with a 18 wide and a 10 wide door. Depending on where your house is located you might consider the location of your man door and/or adding a second man door. Depending on the orientation of your building you might want to consider adding more doors or window for cross ventilation

DIC said:
I would rather have one 16' or 18' door with more room on the sides.. But thats just me.

harsosuao said:
That can be space used for garage stuff.

Thanks for the input, I like the suggestions. I may just get rid of the lean to and try something else. I don’t picture myself sitting outside or working on something outside when the mosquitoes are eating me alive

Also, I’m not crazy about 2 doors, so I will change my drawings to have only one door. I will repost soon.

Thanks!

Eight

3pedal · Jan 18, 2013

I like the lean to, as it can be used to entertain, for covered storage and a car port. If you go that route, I would try to design it so you could enclose it in the future if you find your usage changes.

As someone else mentioned, I would go a bit taller if you can. I have 12' walls and wish I had 16'

woodrail · Jan 18, 2013

I would go 2' higher all around in order to allow a future RV in. Obviously, increase the door as required.

Nice design, I like it.

I do lots of wood working. I love working in the open air. If this was my shop, I'd change the single man door to a pair of 3' doors.

Just a random thought: Is there any value in having a single, large "double door" over two singles? The flexibility to park one vehicle in the center and surround it with stuff might be nice.

NUTTSGT · Jan 18, 2013

Roll up door ? Can you get those insulated ? If not, you'll be losing heat/cooling out that door or it's going to be a sweating door.

Closed tool store room. Not a bad idea, if you do, you can put a floor above it and gain some storage.

I like the covered porch. To allow for more garage space, you could enclose one end (half way) for more garage space. This would give you a work area (benches/machinery/tools) 10x24 and a covered porch of the same size.

Pluribus · Jan 18, 2013

Lots of good advice above that I will mentally file away for my own build idea down the road. I really like the covered area with slab and have always wanted one. I would also either want some sort of small overhead door or a double door like a 6'0"/6'8" with no sill to be able to easily roll tools and material outside to work in a covered area. I don't do a ton of woodworking, but I don't want to coat everything in the shop with sawdust when I do.

eightlitermopar · Jan 18, 2013

Pluribus said:
Lots of good advice above that I will mentally file away for my own build idea down the road. I really like the covered area with slab and have always wanted one. I would also either want some sort of small overhead door or a double door like a 6'0"/6'8" with no sill to be able to easily roll tools and material outside to work in a covered area. I don't do a ton of woodworking, but I don't want to coat everything in the shop with sawdust when I do.

Hmmm...I really like the small overhead door idea on the side. Also, I have done messy projects indoors and made a mess of everything. It would be nice to have a covered area to do this .....

I like a lot of these suggestions.

So...bigger side door. Add another man door. One big door to relace the original two. I didn't even think about the door insulation not being possible with the roll-up door. I definatly want an insulated door, especially if the Florida sun is going to cook that door.

Higher wall height? Like 14" ?

I have wanted some more windows too, but I don't want any windows on the back side (away from my house view) where theives could get in without me seeing it.

Maybe some small windows up high or something. Skylights or dormers...something like that.

Thanks again guys...this is awesome.

eight

ringneck · Jan 19, 2013

I really like the design. probably ot suprising as it is similar to what I just built.

I find it is nice to be able to drive through, so put doors on both ends of the building. Not sure of your build site would support that, but a thought.

I also closed in 2/3 of the lean to, leaving the rest a porch. Gave me a decent place for store room and office, and left lofts above for storing materials and what-not. The porch that was left is good for sitting, but also a reasonable place to park the ranger when it is raining.

Consider a little more pitch for the roof and use scissor trusses, this will let you get the ceiling higher, allow for taller doors, and for mounting lights, openers, fans, whatnot at/above wall height maintaining clear span for your toys.

NUTTSGT · Jan 19, 2013

Incase you didn't think about it. The side porch that is covered, will have a lower wall height as it follows the same roof line down. Many people around here, change that roof line to make that space more useable by making it a flatter roof pitch.

brownbagg · Jan 19, 2013

what the front porch for, its a garage not a house, at least if you have to have a front porch make it big enough to serve as a car port. just remember being in fla, a hurricane will grab that front porch and rip the roof off.

i was thinking about this yesterday, if i had to do mu garage over, i have a two foot concrete stem wall and drains in the floor so I could wash down the dirt, saw dust misc. have all the toolboxes off the ground, it amazing how much dirt get under the boxes and tables.

eightlitermopar · Jan 19, 2013

This is giving me a lot of ideas... I really like your idea ringneck. I wasn't crazy about closing in the whole thing, but partially would give me my tool room and save space in the actual garage.

The current model I have has a 4 foot rise over a 12 foot span. How much more "pitch" could I go? Is there a common pitch?

I am incorporating these ideas into my updated drawing and I will post sometime soon.

thanks guys!
eight

White 99 · Jan 19, 2013

I don't know about dealing with hurrricanes but I would be using that covered area alot. Better if it is high enough to get most things under. At my garage I poured about 8 foot wide cement pads around the sides and back and use them all. It would be nice to have some of that covered but it is not. I also use my front ramp area (slight slope for drainage) to do oil changes, car washes and work outside when it is nice. That covered area would you have would be nice for washing and waxing cars.

Make sure you have plenty of electric plug-ins inside and have some around the outside also. I have RV plug-ins on each side of mine for guests or maybe for me someday.

Tool room sounds nice; maybe get a roll up door for that. How far is the nearest bathroom? I plumbed in a toilet and sink in mine. Maybe bathroom could go next to the tool room. We may have to lengthen the floor plan before I get done.

Fun stuff.

eightlitermopar · Jan 23, 2013

For those of you interested, here are some updated ideas. I have thought of just building a smaller garage, but I know I will regret it later, so I am pressing forward with plans.

Big front door (on tracks, not roll up) 12’ tall by 20’ wide.
Side door into tool room 9’ wide by 8’ tall.

I am now figuring how many windows to put on the tool room side.

Eightlitermopar

tomroblee · Jan 24, 2013

You mentioned windows and security issues, but haven't mentioned whether you intend to heat and cool the building or what kind of roofing material you are using.

I had a pole barn built several years ago at my weekend home. For security reasons I didn't want any windows. It is not heated or cooled and has a metal roof. The builder talked me into using a polycarbonate ridge cap similar to http://www.mwicomponents.com/mcsridcap.htm It lets in a tremendous amount of light. It might not be the best idea if you were planning on heating and cooling the building or if you added a ceiling below the roof line.

The only problem I have had with this ridge cap is when humming birds get into the barn during the summer. They want to fly up to the light and stay up there.

ringneck · Jan 24, 2013

eightlitermopar said:
The current model I have has a 4 foot rise over a 12 foot span. How much more "pitch" could I go? Is there a common pitch

I used a 6/12 for the main roof, which gives enough room for a 3/12 or 2/12 ceiling. Went with the 2/12 ceiling for higher snow load.

On the lean-to, we used a 3/12 pitch. If you did that vs the 4/12, you can likely make your lean-to wall a touch taller (approx a foot)

I have an album posted in my profile, if you want to see what it looks like.

Good luck, post pics when it starts going up.

eightlitermopar · Jan 24, 2013

ringneck said:
I used a 6/12 for the main roof, which gives enough room for a 3/12 or 2/12 ceiling. Went with the 2/12 ceiling for higher snow load.

On the lean-to, we used a 3/12 pitch. If you did that vs the 4/12, you can likely make your lean-to wall a touch taller (approx a foot)

I have an album posted in my profile, if you want to see what it looks like.

Good luck, post pics when it starts going up.

Ringneck, I have reviewed your pictures several times. I love it. It is a bit bigger than I want, but it is awesome non-the-less. Where did you get your kit from?

eightlitermopar

eightlitermopar · Jan 24, 2013

tomroblee said:
You mentioned windows and security issues, but haven't mentioned whether you intend to heat and cool the building or what kind of roofing material you are using.

I had a pole barn built several years ago at my weekend home. For security reasons I didn't want any windows. It is not heated or cooled and has a metal roof. The builder talked me into using a polycarbonate ridge cap similar to http://www.mwicomponents.com/mcsridcap.htm It lets in a tremendous amount of light. It might not be the best idea if you were planning on heating and cooling the building or if you added a ceiling below the roof line.

The only problem I have had with this ridge cap is when humming birds get into the barn during the summer. They want to fly up to the light and stay up there.

Thanks for the heads up. I will look into that. This building will be built in Florida, so I am pondering how to cool this most effectively. I am thinking about two bigger screened windows up high (like close to the roof line on the pitch) on the front and back of the shop for airflow.

I was thinking the tool shed would definately be air conditioned so I can actually work in there during the hottest summer months.

Oh, and the roof will be a metal roof. White painted or galvalume...

For this reason, this is why I have considered going smaller on the plans. It would be easier and cheaper to cool during the hot summer months. I am still on the fence about it.

eightlitermopar

1953mercury · Jan 24, 2013

I would definitely go at least 14' on the walls. That way you can have a standup loft/lofts, and lower ceilings. Add a wall from the floor up to the loft and you can create a work area that you can air condition/heat easily.You will never regret having that extra storage space. My loft spaces are fully utilized, but I can't stand up straight when up there. Mike

Flatland Dave · Jan 24, 2013

I have a 32 x 48 x 16 I am in the process of getting built. I too have a 10 x 48 lean on the south side. SHMBO wanted a "porch" so she will have one for grill/table etc. Did it with 5" concrete so could park on there if needed. No plans to enclose it as there are no tubes or insulation in the floor. I went with 1 big door. 16 x 14h door. two man doors on the lean side.

eightlitermopar · Jan 24, 2013

Flatland Dave said:
I have a 32 x 48 x 16 I am in the process of getting built. I too have a 10 x 48 lean on the south side. SHMBO wanted a "porch" so she will have one for grill/table etc. Did it with 5" concrete so could park on there if needed. No plans to enclose it as there are no tubes or insulation in the floor. I went with 1 big door. 16 x 14h door. two man doors on the lean side.

It's funny how many of us have the same ideas.

Now, here is the question. I found a pole barn kit that can give me the dimensions I am looking for. I like the idea of a "rat wall" or short concrete base around the sides, but would a pole barn be easier to put up?

I know this is the time-tested debate.

eightlitermopar

Liberty · Jan 24, 2013

IU would lean toward 16' sidewalls. 'cause that is what we did. BUT we have a SilverEagle bus conversion to park inside. ours id 30' x 50' this top 2' have clear polycaronate on the side walls. plenty of light all day.

Nowater · Jan 24, 2013

I am an engineer that works in stormwater in Florida. Have you given any consideration to how the site drains, floodplain, or riverine floodplain concerns. To give you an idea, in my area we typically design for a 10 inch rain in 24 hours. Your concern is, where is all that water going?

Point number two, is there plans for a bathroom inside?

oldldh · Jan 24, 2013

I hate to raise the ugly "H" word, but Hurricanes do happen in the Sunshine State...

Check your building codes CAREFULLY!!!!

Twice!!!

Flatland Dave · Jan 25, 2013

eightlitermopar said:
It's funny how many of us have the same ideas.

Now, here is the question. I found a pole barn kit that can give me the dimensions I am looking for. I like the idea of a "rat wall" or short concrete base around the sides, but would a pole barn be easier to put up?

I know this is the time-tested debate.

eightlitermopar

I have post on column construction. Poured all of the concrete first. I already have a polebarn with rotten posts and didn't want that to happen again.

eightlitermopar · Jan 25, 2013

Flatland Dave said:
I have post on column construction. Poured all of the concrete first. I already have a polebarn with rotten posts and didn't want that to happen again.

Sorry about your rotten posts...This is what I am concerned about. I have decided mine will be a stick built....

Thanks for the input.

Also, Hurricanes are a reality, so I will be doing my homework and asking a lot of questions as I go along with the build. I want to over build it if at all possible.

eightlitermopar

eightlitermopar · Jan 25, 2013

Nowater said:
I am an engineer that works in stormwater in Florida. Have you given any consideration to how the site drains, floodplain, or riverine floodplain concerns. To give you an idea, in my area we typically design for a 10 inch rain in 24 hours. Your concern is, where is all that water going?

Point number two, is there plans for a bathroom inside?

This is something I have thought about. The build will be on the higher portion of the property, but do you have any suggestions?

Even with the river closeby, I have never the property flood, even when the nearby road was covered with water. However, that being said, I don't want water underneath to cause my slab to sink or settle wrong either. so.....

I haven't decided on a bathroom yet :dunno:

85Ram · Jan 25, 2013

Instead of going with a roll up door you could go with a sectional door with a raised track that hugs the ceiling or goes straight up the wall if you have the height. I just built a 30'x45'x14.5' and one of the 7' doors goes up straight against the wall, no horizontal track. I second what others said about making it a little taller. I was able to put a loft in my building and have headroom upstairs and down. Going taller didn't cost much at all.
Joe

eightlitermopar · Feb 9, 2013

Here are some updated plans before I put the roof on my plans...

Is it wrong to think that I might be building TOO big? :shocking:

eightlitermopar

dbabicky · Feb 9, 2013

Build as big as you can afford, you will fill it.

scofo · Feb 9, 2013

Yes. It is wrong to think that.

scofo · Feb 9, 2013

Your going to need lots more ventilation or you'll be miserable.

What is the orientation of the building? Did you say earlier the overhead doors are on the southside?

critique my 32x48 plan

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