4x4 Attached to Studs to Anchor HF Tool Chest Workbench

mharris2007 · Jan 18, 2013

Hi there,

Been busy getting my garage sorted out after moving in 3 months ago. Will post some pictures of the whole process once it's done.

I am in the process of completing my HF toolchest work bench. I have a 4" concrete stem wall between the wall and the HF toolchest that I need to bridge in order be able to secure the tool chests to the studs.

My thought (which I have already purchased and cut lumber for) was to screw a 4x4 to the studs and screw a 1x4 into that to give a total thickness of 4.25" as a backing to brace the toolchest/work bench. My fear is that a 4x4 will be to "heavy" to be securec into the studs wtih 5/16" lag screws and that I may need to build supports that are vertical resting on the stem wall below to support the 4x4's. Included are a few pictures of the stem wall where the HF toolchest/workbench will be located.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Matt

machine_punk · Jan 18, 2013

Oddly enough, I build frequently with 5/16" in lag screws, bolts, and threaded rod. I don't think you are going to have any problem with your original plan. As long as you get the correct length of lag bolt, (make sure you account for the drywall, and any other wall coverings, when you plan the length of the lag screw. I'd shoot for a good 2 inches of lag screw in the stud.

You could countersink the head of the lag screw into the 4x4.

I guess my overall question is, "Why would you need to fasten your bench to the wall?" If you are using a tool chest, won't the weight of the tools keep it in one spot?

If you decide you still need the support piece on the wall, I would recommend an impact wrench of some sort for installing the lag screws. A 3/8" pneumatic impact wrench will be adequate. I usually find that I need to pre-drill pilot holes in the edges of 2x4,s to keep them from splitting. Pre-drilling the hole in the 4x4 will be easier with an auger bit. If you choose to countersink the heads of the lag screws, make sure you drill the countersink first, with a spade bit that gives you plenty of room to get your socket over the lag screw head and washer, then drill the through-hole (much harder to drill a larger hole centered on a smaller hole.)

That's a bit jumbled together, but now you know what I know about 5/16" lag screws.

Kev

rick carpenter · Jan 18, 2013

4xs may have been overkill, but you have them so why not use them. Attach the 1xs horizontally to vertical 4xs and put the 1xs against the wall and screw them into the studs. The 4xs can be spaced however you'd like regardless of studs. You could make the 4xs extend up past the bench top and put a 1x6 across them for a little shelf say 8-10" above your bench with a power strip mounted under the shelf.

mharris2007 · Jan 18, 2013

machine_punk said:
Oddly enough, I build frequently with 5/16" in lag screws, bolts, and threaded rod. I don't think you are going to have any problem with your original plan. As long as you get the correct length of lag bolt, (make sure you account for the drywall, and any other wall coverings, when you plan the length of the lag screw. I'd shoot for a good 2 inches of lag screw in the stud.

You could countersink the head of the lag screw into the 4x4.

I guess my overall question is, "Why would you need to fasten your bench to the wall?" If you are using a tool chest, won't the weight of the tools keep it in one spot?

If you decide you still need the support piece on the wall, I would recommend an impact wrench of some sort for installing the lag screws. A 3/8" pneumatic impact wrench will be adequate. I usually find that I need to pre-drill pilot holes in the edges of 2x4,s to keep them from splitting. Pre-drilling the hole in the 4x4 will be easier with an auger bit. If you choose to countersink the heads of the lag screws, make sure you drill the countersink first, with a spade bit that gives you plenty of room to get your socket over the lag screw head and washer, then drill the through-hole (much harder to drill a larger hole centered on a smaller hole.)

That's a bit jumbled together, but now you know what I know about 5/16" lag screws.

Kev

Kev,

I appreciate this very much. I figured that the tools in the chest would likely keep it in place, but I plan on putting a vice on it and wreching it around a bit and wanted to make it as sturdy as possible. The countertops are 1.5" ikea oak butcher block as well which are very heavy as well.

I actually didn't buy and auger bit, but instead bought a LONG 1/4" drill bit to drill the pilot holes. I actually thought about countersinking the lag screws and bought a set of spade bits to do so, but didn't know the trick of drilling the countersink hole first. I appreciate that advice.

Your explanation wasn't jumbles together at all, and was a tremendous help. Thank you.

Matt

mharris2007 · Jan 18, 2013

rick carpenter said:
4xs may have been overkill, but you have them so why not use them. Attach the 1xs horizontally to vertical 4xs and put the 1xs against the wall and screw them into the studs. The 4xs can be spaced however you'd like regardless of studs. You could make the 4xs extend up past the bench top and put a 1x6 across them for a little shelf say 8-10" above your bench with a power strip mounted under the shelf.

Hi Rick,

HMMMMM..... I hadn't though of that, but it would seem that the 1x4's into the studs (with 4x4's attaches to those) wouldn't be as sturdy as putting the 4x4's into the studs? Clearly you're the carpenter and have done this before so I'm sure you have your reasons!

I actually have three wall outlets that my cousin put in that will be between the bench and the cabinets. If the 4x4's extended up they would cover the outlets, but if I only had one outlet and needed that power bar, that would be brilliant. Let me go take a pictures so you have a better idea.......

Thanks for the help. Appreciate it.

rick carpenter · Jan 18, 2013

I didn't realize you had uppers, so the idea of a mini-shelf might take up too much valuable space.

As far as whether 1xs or 4xs bolted into the studs, I don't think it will make a difference because you are only anchoring the toolchest/workbench to the wall. If you want the 4xs against the wall, I'd countersink those screws deep deep deep into them. The difficulty there is hitting the studs but with careful measuring it can be done.

rick carpenter · Jan 18, 2013

I re-read your original post and now realize you meant horizontal 4xs against the wall, sorry. That's workable and yeah put some sort of vertical stabilization under them for peace of mind, could be as simple as heavy duty shelf brackets cut down unless you are planning on using the 4xs to share the vertical load of the benchtop.

mharris2007 · Jan 18, 2013

rick carpenter said:
I didn't realize you had uppers, so the idea of a mini-shelf might take up too much valuable space.

As far as whether 1xs or 4xs bolted into the studs, I don't think it will make a difference because you are only anchoring the toolchest/workbench to the wall. If you want the 4xs against the wall, I'd countersink those screws deep deep deep into them. The difficulty there is hitting the studs but with careful measuring it can be done.

I may try to redesign it to have the 1x4's be upright. Sounds like that would be an easier option. I should always come here to ask questions first before I decide I have the best way figured out, which clearly I never do.

rick carpenter said:
I re-read your original post and now realize you meant horizontal 4xs against the wall, sorry. That's workable and yeah put some sort of vertical stabilization under them for peace of mind, could be as simple as heavy duty shelf brackets cut down unless you are planning on using the 4xs to share the vertical load of the benchtop.

If I end up keeping them horizontal I will keep this in mind. Thanks so much. Back to Home Depot I go.

Matt

machine_punk · Jan 19, 2013

mharris2007 said:
Kev,

I appreciate this very much. I figured that the tools in the chest would likely keep it in place, but I plan on putting a vice on it and wreching it around a bit and wanted to make it as sturdy as possible. The countertops are 1.5" ikea oak butcher block as well which are very heavy as well.

I actually didn't buy and auger bit, but instead bought a LONG 1/4" drill bit to drill the pilot holes. I actually thought about countersinking the lag screws and bought a set of spade bits to do so, but didn't know the trick of drilling the countersink hole first. I appreciate that advice.

Your explanation wasn't jumbles together at all, and was a tremendous help. Thank you.

Matt

Make sure you drill 5/16" holes through the 4x4's! You don't want the lag screws to 'bite' into the 4x4...you want them to slide through...then you want to drill a pilot hole in the wall/studs to prevent splitting. (this should be the diameter of the 'non-thread' part of the lag screw...the center, solid area). 1/4" sounds about right.

So, you will need something 5/16" to drill through the 4x4's, AFTER you had drilled whatever countersink you want. If you think you want to standardize on 5/16" lag bolts and screws for larger projects like this, I'd recommend biting the bullet and buying the longer auger bit now, which will make this absolutely painless (feeds itself through the wood with the screw tip). You CAN do this with a 5/16" spade bit, but will take a bit more work. My absolute last option (but probably the cheapest) would be a regular drill bit in 5/16". It will do it, but it won't be easy.

I'd consider picking up a pack of shims (the thin, wood strips you use to install doors and windows correctly). Dirt cheap and will help, if any of this is not quite as square as you hope.

I like the Ikea worktops. I have an Ikea cabinet in the kitchen and it is one of my favorite surfaces to work on...and relatively inexpensive too.

Looking forward to process pictures of whatever you do.

Kev

mharris2007 · Jan 19, 2013

machine_punk said:
Make sure you drill 5/16" holes through the 4x4's! You don't want the lag screws to 'bite' into the 4x4...you want them to slide through...then you want to drill a pilot hole in the wall/studs to prevent splitting. (this should be the diameter of the 'non-thread' part of the lag screw...the center, solid area). 1/4" sounds about right.

So, you will need something 5/16" to drill through the 4x4's, AFTER you had drilled whatever countersink you want. If you think you want to standardize on 5/16" lag bolts and screws for larger projects like this, I'd recommend biting the bullet and buying the longer auger bit now, which will make this absolutely painless (feeds itself through the wood with the screw tip). You CAN do this with a 5/16" spade bit, but will take a bit more work. My absolute last option (but probably the cheapest) would be a regular drill bit in 5/16". It will do it, but it won't be easy.

I'd consider picking up a pack of shims (the thin, wood strips you use to install doors and windows correctly). Dirt cheap and will help, if any of this is not quite as square as you hope.

I like the Ikea worktops. I have an Ikea cabinet in the kitchen and it is one of my favorite surfaces to work on...and relatively inexpensive too.

Looking forward to process pictures of whatever you do.

Kev

Hi Kev,

Oh dear. I was not planning on the holes in the 4x4 being 5/16" and only bought a long 1/4" drill bit. So, guess what I'm doing tomorrow? Going to the wood shop to buy a long 5/16" auger bit! I actually already have the wood shims for that I had bought for the countertops so I'd be good there. I REALLY appreciate your guidance here as this is the first time doing this sort of project. I will abosulutely chronicle the project and post it here in a new thread. Thanks so much! Have a great weekend.

Matt

4x4 Attached to Studs to Anchor HF Tool Chest Workbench

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