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Topkick fifth wheel hauler project

NASTYZEN

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I have a stretched Topkick truck coming in the shop soon. The client would like me to build him a custom box for it.
Here is a pic of what he would like it to look like. More or less.



Any members here have experience with one of these? Is there a name for this type of box? I would like to research the subject a little before getting started.

So far, I'm planning to build a platform out of 2'' x 3'' channel bolted to the chassis. Two, length wise along the main rails to get the right height and the rest crosswise every 16'' and all around the perimeter. Then build up from that. Should I make some tubular structure, or only use sheet? Once all boxed up, it should be pretty sturdy all on it's own.

There will also be a winched platform to haul his Goldwing behind the cab.
The client is supplying that gismo as well all the hinges,door handles, door seals and lights.

I would like to make it all out of Alu. but I think the client wishes to go bud jet and use steel.
If I were to go Alu. I think I would go with .074'' thick and if it's steel I aim to use .065'' sheet.
I plan on introducing a bit more checker plate on the bottom perimeter and also on the middle part between the side boxes.

So wadoya all think??:headscrat
 
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Stuart in MN

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Personally, I think the whole checker plate fad has been overdone - I like the smooth look of the truck in the picture above better.
 

cbogg

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Also known as a rancher or gooseneck body. That looks like a CM body. I'd actually recommend you call around, you can probably buy one for far cheaper than you could build one. Also, alumline in cresco, Iowa will make you one if those out of either smooth or diamond plate aluminum and cheaper than you might think.

Being that you're in Quebec, you might want to give Iroquois manufacturing in Hinesburg Vermont a call. They work only in steel (or stainless) but can make anything out of it. Very high quality and cheap. 802-482-2155, ask for Shawn Lyman. He's the owner, great guy to deal with.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Thank's for the input guys. Found oodles of pics.
Getting some quotes this morning. A steel box would weigh about a ton. Alu would be a third of that.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Holy huge picture man.

I see it screen size?? Damed computers!!

Anyhow, I Got the job!

Oh no!! what have I got myself into this time!:badteeth:

Were going to go with an all Aluminum build. It was only about 500 bucks difference. Man , steel has gotten expensive. I'm still not sure on the right gauge for the sides and doors though.
Maybe .072 for the sides and .065 for the doors?
Should be interesting to build.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Just got the stainless fenders and all the 2x3 x 1/4 channel for the deck.
Still mopping up the backlog of other projects...Should be good to go next week sometime.

 
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NASTYZEN

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Managed to squeeze the beast in. I had to reconfigure the shop. Only so much you can do with 20 x 40.:)
It was a good thing. In the 17 years I've been here, this is the best layout so far. I guess the new 12 ft long work bench did the trick.



The first step is to lay down the main rails and position the fenders.
I'm going to notch the main rails to fit over the saddle brkt and add a flange.
I love loose plans..

I also got the bike hoist carry thing. It has to be mounted behind the cab.



I'm a Tig guy, but this is a mig job. This is what I will be using.







I use Argon as a shielding gas
I've used this setup a fair bit. But I am not happy with my welds. I always get the black soot.
The welds are sound, just not as pretty as I would like.
Any tips??

I already unplugged the truck battery.:D
 
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lilscorpion

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Cool project. They say prep the AL with a stainless brush before you weld. No matter how long I prep, I get the soot welds too. Great looking welds (stronger than the material) but the soot makes me feel like I'm doing it all wrong compared to TIG. I've heard that the wire can be contaminated too but how could you know when looking at it? If you figure this one out, let me know.
 

CarterKraft

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i thought the soot on mig'd AL was part of the deal?
Maybe the 350p pulsed mig is the solution, again I don't know first hand.

Like the progress, though.
 

affende

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i have better luck with ER4043 wire.

as for the black soot .... clean your joint better and try changing your gun angle. dont push or pull the weld ... stay 90* to your direction of travel (i have no idea why this works for me, but when i start getting black soot, my gun angle is off though sometimes it is unavoidable).

all that aluminum ... plan on some aluminum cleaner to get a consistent finish.
 

Strouty

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Subscribed, I am about to embark on a similar project with my FL60 (affectionately know as "Bev" due to former beverage truck) I have some ideas, but seeing someone build one will probably spark new ideas.
 

Strouty

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One thing I will tell you is be careful to cover the air line really well. We had some of mine get splatter from the spool gun and did not realize it was a leak until after driving it for a while. The aluminum splatters around and that plastic line will get melted, but the splatter actually plugs the hole until you go a few miles, then it falls out and leaks air.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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I also have that same 30A spool gun, but run it of an antique Millermatic 200 machine. I have run into the same sooty welds issue and found, just like Affende said, keeping the gun held out at 90* helps. Also remember to hold a little gas flow after the arc stops for just second or you get crappy looking end of the bead ( I have to remind myself this stuff since I'm an ameteur).
I have also noticed that one of our machinery Mfr's who does a ton of AL parts on their machines has gone to spool gun /mig for everything - must be a lot faster / easier = saving them money to produce it.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Thank's for the input guys. Following Strouty's tip about spatter, I noticed all the air lines and other stuff like gas tank's.. So far I'm pretty much just tacking, so I did most of that with the tig.
After some layout I cut out the main rails for saddle clearance with my jig saw. I almost got myself a plasma cutter for this job. But I figure I've done without all this time. It's kinda hard to justify the cost, for now.:sad:



Bending up some 1/4 x 2 plate on the iron worker.



Test fit.




Alu. shrinks a lot when welded so, I placed a shim between the two rails and over bent them and clamped them prior to welding to keep the distortion down. So the rails will be strait after welding.



Tig welded in and out.





In it's place.



Now with the main rails in place, I built most the motorcycle deck.
Still have to figure the front layout.
Started to tack with the mig.



Got the fenders mounted.



I'm leaving a hang out to wrap the checker plate over and the body sheeting will come down and **** on it. After painting they're going to pull a silicone joint all around.



The nice thing with Alu. projects is that you can put them outside and not worry about the weather so much.:D



I want to mount the bumper on the underside of this angle. What is that thing hanging there already? Is it needed? It's partially welded on. I want to torch it off and bolt some Alu. angle using the existing holes.




Beer money!!


:beer:
 
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akdiesel

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Fantastic build. I've built some 1/4" aluminum tool boxes with the old Lincoln 175 (no spool gun) with good results, but the spool gun would make a lot easier.
 
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wbrian63

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What is that thing hanging there already? Is it needed? It's partially welded on. I want to torch it off and bolt some Alu. angle using the existing holes.

From the position, maybe it's a pivot point for a dump bed?

If it's not holding anything up, on or down, I'd say it's not needed, especially if it's mounted outside the frame.
 

koditten

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How much wire and Argon are you going thru?

I've got the exact same set up, minus the digital readouts. I haven't done any big projects. I think I'm on the same spool for the last 5 years. I get customers asking all the time for an aluminum trailer of my style. I just have to break down and do it.

Later

KO
 

Strouty

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It is looking very nice so far. Keep the updates coming. This is inspiration for me. I have decided to lengthen my wheelbase so that I can keep my storage boxes in tact.

Sent by carrier pigeon.
 

Strouty

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One question for you, will you be able to remove inch with the bed on or is it captured. I was just thinking if they ever damaged or upgrade, it may be a bear to remove the bed to switch.n It looks like you could snake it over to one side, then back the other way, but I would try and make it removable if possible.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Fantastic build. I've built some 1/4" aluminum tool boxes with the old Lincoln 175 (no spool gun) with good results, but the spool gun would make a lot easier.

Glad your enjoying the build. I'm having fun with this one.

From the position, maybe it's a pivot point for a dump bed?

If it's not holding anything up, on or down, I'd say it's not needed, especially if it's mounted outside the frame.

Yes, looks like some sort of pivot. But rather flimsy looking and shabbily attached.

How much wire and Argon are you going thru?

KO

I've not gone through much yet. I've only been tacking so far.

OMG, thats my dream truck for my 41 foot toy hauler. Subscribed

Thank's for watching.

There are upfitter manuals free form GM avaible online for these. Just google the model and you should be able to find it. Lots of good info, drawings etc.. . I used it a few times when I was working on 03 C7500.

Edit: http://www.gmupfitter.com/body_builder_manuals.html

Cool stuff. Thank you Kald!

One question for you, will you be able to remove inch with the bed on or is it captured. I was just thinking if they ever damaged or upgrade, it may be a bear to remove the bed to switch.n It looks like you could snake it over to one side, then back the other way, but I would try and make it removable if possible.

I'm sorry, I don't understand your question.:headscrat
Remove the what??
 
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