My "new" 1970 Saylor Beall 705 Compressor!

RABRods · Apr 23, 2013

I am now the proud owner of a 1970 Saylor Beall 705, 120 gallon compressor!!! And I got it for a steal, I think, only $400... :rocker:

It is currently 3 phase, i will be adding a single phase motor to it and get it running. Hopefully over the next winter I will take it all apart and rebuild/paint/restore etc.

The tank looks solid, eveything looks good, but needs some TLC.

The pump has the numbers "4045" and the pump crankcase has "WA 4048R". Does anyone know if this is a gunuine S/B pump?

Trey T · Apr 23, 2013

That's a genuine SB-705 but older style.

Don't rebuild it if you don't have to. I suggest looking through the big inspection plate to see the condition of the crank, oil, and sludge build-up. If the previous owner change the oil regularly, the pump should be in good shape.

If the pump has a filter through out its life, the head should be free of crud and debris. You can easily make your own tool to take off the five valve hold-down.

Look through old thread of other people's SB-705

RABRods · Apr 23, 2013

Trey,

Thanks for the info, I will drain the oil and take a look at the inspection plate to check for wear first. You say don't rebuild, I assume due to cost of parts being old I assume.

I have been looking at all of the S/B threads for the last few months thats why I decided to got this route from all the good talk of S/B. Now that I actually own one, I will have to read back through with a closer look to see what people have done...

Thanks Trey.

Chaznsc · Apr 23, 2013

AWESOME - gotta love vintage shop stuff

Trey T · Apr 23, 2013

It's not about old or new; if it's not broken don't fix it. I don't know if the parts are interchangeable but Kams1876 (sp?) is a very knowledgeable guy that can chime once he sees this thread.

If you got questions, ask away.

metal4130 · Apr 24, 2013

Very nice looking compressor you bought, I too saw it up on Craigslist a while back. Not too often you see a 705 pump on a 120 gallon tank which is a nice feature. The rebuild would be up to you but if it were me I would run it to see how it performs and then go from there. Compressors are pretty simple machines so unless you hear a knock or somthing I would save the $$$ and maybe just prep and paint it. Might not be a bad idea to service the valves before a paint job. No doubt though it is a great compressor that will last a lifetime.

RABRods · Apr 24, 2013

Thanks guys... & I agree after reading back some old posts on the othe S/S's on the site, I no longer plan to rebuild until needed. I will be buying a new motor, hopefully soon. At that point i just plan to give it some TLC (paint, stickers, clean it up) and get her running. Few questions I have...

1) Metal4130 you mention possibly rebuilding the valves, once I get it running, how would I know if the valves need a rebuild?

2) Should I pressure test the tank or just get it running and if it holds air call it good? There is definately no pinholes or anything on the underside, I plan on opening up the large tank inspection holes this weekend to take a look inside.

3) I read through the manual it mentions "Industrial R & O Oil, minimum 95 V.I." I have never heard of it, bet it seems to be "rust and oxidation inhibition (R&O)", what does the 95 V.I. stand for, where might I find some oil like this?

4) I did not see any belt tension in the manual, how to I know how tight it should be?

Thanks guys, I will post more pics and info as I clean her up and get her running!

RABRods · Apr 24, 2013

Also would it make any sense being its a big long horizontal tank that when place it on its mounts in the corner to have it tilted ever so slightly towards the tank drain side??

kams1973 · Apr 24, 2013

Like other members have said, remove the side plate a do a good visual inspection. Also, it wouldn't hurt to remove the conrod caps and inspect the bearing inserts. This is an older style pump. Unless it's had major work in the recent past, it will have cast iron conrods. If you replace these bearings, make sure your supplier knows this.

I'd also check the valves. You can take them apart for cleaning without any special tools. Be sure to keep them in order; they are not all the same. Once you get it all back together, run the pump in the RPM range suggested by Saylor Bealle. If you do, this compressor will still be making air for generations to come.

kams1973 · Apr 24, 2013

RABRods said:
Also would it make any sense being its a big long horizontal tank that when place it on its mounts in the corner to have it tilted ever so slightly towards the tank drain side??

If you do this, be advised the oil level on one side of the pump will be higher than the other.

RABRods · May 8, 2013

Question on the correct single phase motor. I have found locally on C-List a refurbished motor which looks to be the correct specs to replace my 3 phase. It is a Leeson "131537-00". It is stated to be a capacitor start & capacitor run motor. What exactly does that mean...will that help or hurt me?

Item# 131537-00
Ship Weight 84.0 lbs
HP 5
Rated RPM 1,740
Volts 230
Amps 21 at 230V
Hertz 60
Motor Phase(s) Single
Shank Diameter (in.) 1 1/8
Shank Length (in.) 2 3/4
Frame Type Nema 184T
Rotation Direction Counter clockwise
Reversible Yes
Open Drip Proof Housing Yes
Capacitor Start Yes
Capacitor Run Yes
UL Yes
CSA Yes

Trey T · May 8, 2013

When you hear capacitor, start and run, it's single phase.

Your concern is the motor shaft and rotation. Check the current shaft size and check if the pump is rotational direction biased.

RABRods · May 9, 2013

Trey T,

Thanks for the capacitor info. And Yes the shaft is the same diameter and the motor can be wired to run CW & CCW.

Also, I think I found a new motor starter for good price. From a U.S. company for $100-$125. Company is Elimia Industrial. Anyone else order from them?

http://elimia.ecrater.com/p/15024280/elimia-air-compressor-motor-starter#

http://elimia.ecrater.com/p/15012558/elimia-air-compressor-motor-starter

My "new" 1970 Saylor Beall 705 Compressor!

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