Building carriage doors from scratch

Doug1 · May 31, 2013

I'm looking to build 2 7'x5' carriage house doors or barn doors from scratch. They will slide on a barn door rail and I'd like to include some old windows I saved. I did a serach and found one or two useful threads but nothing that has the links collected in one thread.

Please post your links or examples here!

Thanks.

mdr · May 31, 2013

Fine Homebuilding did a project in the past year where they constructed a set of carriage house doors. The build was fairly straightforward and they looked good upon completion.

Here's a link to a video showing what they did: FHB_Project_House_Garage_Doors

FHB also has an article archived on the build, but you'll have to find it at your library.

Thruxton · Jun 1, 2013

I used old windows in mine, here are some small pics:

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Each door was made of one sheet of 3/4 exterior plywood and 1 X 6 for trim on each side, glued and screwed. The sash was from the local dump 4 bucks each. The sash had grooves in each stile, so the opening I cut in the 3/4 was narrower than the sash by the depth of one groove. That way I could slip the sash in all the way to one side, then slide it back half way, thus capturing it in the plywood on both sides. The trim then anchored it. I used pin hinges as you can see, but almost 15 years ago I made two 6 X 12 barn doors the same way (except no sash), and they are still hangin' and slidin'. Hope this is useful!

Thorold · Jun 1, 2013

I've just stolen the design of your doors, Thruxton. Have a pair to build for a shed at my son's house and these will be perfection !!!!

Thruxton · Jun 1, 2013

Thanks, Thorold. They were not hard to build, and cheap! The hinges cost a lot more than the doors...

acer66 · Jun 1, 2013

mdr said:
Fine Homebuilding did a project in the past year where they constructed a set of carriage house doors. The build was fairly straightforward and they looked good upon completion.

Here's a link to a video showing what they did: FHB_Project_House_Garage_Doors

FHB also has an article archived on the build, but you'll have to find it at your library.

I am holding on to that issue because that is what I want to do if I do not go with a big regular garage door.

Doug1 · Jun 2, 2013

Each door was made of one sheet of 3/4 exterior plywood and 1 X 6 for trim on each side, glued and screwed. The sash was from the local dump 4 bucks each. The sash had grooves in each stile, so the opening I cut in the 3/4 was narrower than the sash by the depth of one groove. That way I could slip the sash in all the way to one side, then slide it back half way, thus capturing it in the plywood on both sides. The trim then anchored it. I used pin hinges as you can see, but almost 15 years ago I made two 6 X 12 barn doors the same way (except no sash), and they are still hangin' and slidin'. Hope this is useful![/QUOTE]

Those look just like what I want to do. I think they are going to be the model of how I build mine.

Doug1 · Jul 28, 2013

Here's what I ended up with so far.

Took a couple of wooden 15 light doors and added 12" to each side, and about 6" to the top and bottom to get 2 doors big enough to cover a 10'w x 8'h opening. Going to hang these from barn door track. May dress them up with some 1x4 trim to make them look more authentic, if I can come up with a good design. Similar to what Thruxton did in his above.

They will fit this opening. I'll have to find a more recent pic since I added new flooring, etc. But you get the idea.

When they are open the large door windows will still let light come through the side windows, which will be nice.

1949 caddyman · Jul 29, 2013

How did you join the side & top pieces to the 15 light door?

Doug1 · Jul 29, 2013

1949 caddyman said:
How did you join the side & top pieces to the 15 light door?

Not sure

A cabinet maker who was doing some other work for me did it in his shop. I believe he used a biscuit joiner to align the boards and just glued and clamped them.

I'll see what I can find out.

scootermcrad · Jul 29, 2013

Subscribed...

Thruxton, how are your doors holding up? Any wiggle in the shape, or are they standing firm and flat?

Been thinking about building some "carriage look" standard garage door panels (roll up) for my current garage and do some REAL carriage doors for a couple other projects. I want them all to match. Roll up doors seem easy enough to do using existing hardware and making the sections. Those carriage door looking roll ups that you can purchase commercially that are real wood seem way over-priced for how simple they are. Maybe that's the DIY'er in me, though...

Thruxton · Jul 29, 2013

scootermcrad, they're doing just fine! They continue to be very flat, close just right, no problems at all, except when my 928 is on the lift I have to wedge myself between its bumper and the doors to use the latches (it is a SMALL garage!). And yeah, I built these after looking at commercial prices. They are I am sure much better made, but no way I was going to pay that kind of price, ergo DIY! And actually, I think the one sheet construction approach makes up for a lot of "nicer" touches, as the sheet bears a lot of whatever stress the doors experience, and there are no joints to worry about- all the joints are in the trim.

BTW, grew up in Hickory, cannot believe the flooding down there!

Thruxton · Jul 29, 2013

Doug1 said:
Here's what I ended up with so far.

Took a couple of wooden 15 light doors and added 12" to each side, and about 6" to the top and bottom to get 2 doors big enough to cover a 10'w x 8'h opening. Going to hang these from barn door track. May dress them up with some 1x4 trim to make them look more authentic, if I can come up with a good design. Similar to what Thruxton did in his above.

They will fit this opening. I'll have to find a more recent pic since I added new flooring, etc. But you get the idea.

When they are open the large door windows will still let light come through the side windows, which will be nice.

Those are going to look fine! And that rotisserie- wow, what a great thing!

scootermcrad · Jul 30, 2013

Thruxton said:
scootermcrad, they're doing just fine! They continue to be very flat, close just right, no problems at all, except when my 928 is on the lift I have to wedge myself between its bumper and the doors to use the latches (it is a SMALL garage!). And yeah, I built these after looking at commercial prices. They are I am sure much better made, but no way I was going to pay that kind of price, ergo DIY! And actually, I think the one sheet construction approach makes up for a lot of "nicer" touches, as the sheet bears a lot of whatever stress the doors experience, and there are no joints to worry about- all the joints are in the trim.

BTW, grew up in Hickory, cannot believe the flooding down there!

Good stuff! Your doors really motivated me to do them myself.

YEAH! The flooding is TERRIBLE! Saying that streets will be closed for months.

lane meyer · Jul 30, 2013

Thruxton, where did you get the hardware for the doors?

Thruxton · Jul 30, 2013

Lane, I got the hinges at Tractor Supply- the biggest I could find locally. Be glad to supply details on how I fit them up if you like.

sofob0909 · Jul 30, 2013

subscribed

383 240z · Jul 30, 2013

Thruxton, I'm planning on using those same hinges. How did you mount the fixed side? What size are doors? I'm replacing a pair of 9x7 roll up doors. Also how did you seal them to the floor and each other?

I plan on building the structure of the doors like in the FHB magazine using the laminated 2x4's and such. I was going to style them similar to Truxton's and the FHB ones. However wife vetoed that plan, said it was too much in the Arts and Crafts style. She is wanting me to keep it more to the period of the house (built in 1817) I'll have to think on that for a bit, as I have no real reference for that time period of style. Keith

Thruxton · Jul 30, 2013

383 240z said:
Thruxton, I'm planning on using those same hinges. How did you mount the fixed side? What size are doors? I'm replacing a pair of 9x7 roll up doors. Also how did you seal them to the floor and each other?

I plan on building the structure of the doors like in the FHB magazine using the laminated 2x4's and such. I was going to style them similar to Truxton's and the FHB ones. However wife vetoed that plan, said it was too much in the Arts and Crafts style. She is wanting me to keep it more to the period of the house (built in 1817) I'll have to think on that for a bit, as I have no real reference for that time period of style. Keith

OK, very interesting questions. To begin with, I completely agree with your wife's impulse to keep the doors as period as possible. She is right about the period my doors belong to, and to make doors compatible with early 19th century design requires a different approach. But not so much! Dig a bit in architectural history and you should find some good models. They will be solid, no lights (windows) but certainly adaptable.

You are N of Pittsburgh and your house dates to 1817, very early for the area, so keeping things consistent in style is important, I agree. To begin with, I imagine your house to be what is often referred to as Federal in period, and so I would look for a fairly simple door design. I would take a look at some of the barns in the mid-Atlantic for ideas, esp around Philadelphia, given your location. My guess is you will find hinges like I used, and very simple, but well executed, vertical board panelling. I just retired from 8 years as a guide at one of the more important late 18th-early 19th century US historical sites- Monticello, and have owned and restored a 19th century Greek Revival and an Arts and Crafts house, so I do understand your wife's sensitivities about period.

As to technical questions: the doors are each about 4 X 7, I don't have them well sealed (after Ithaca NY it seems to balmy down here to worry too much about that) but they could be. The fixed (hinge) side mounting was somewhat involved. I'll try to cook up a diagram to show you how I did it in the next few days- it's actually pretty simple, though.

Thruxton · Jul 30, 2013

I should add one note: houses often combine and transcend periods. Your 1817 house has 20/21st cent. wiring for example. An old restoration architect from Philly once told me, speaking about some plans I had to improve livability in my 1845 Greek Revival farmhouse, "it's not a museum! Houses are alive when people live in them..." Even a place like Monticello reflects decades of change. So an absolutely strict adherence to period is not necessarily correct. But I do think it is good to avoid garish contrasts.

Doug1 · Jul 31, 2013

Used a track from tractor supply and got the doors mounted tonight. Need to trim them out but they already make a big difference in the look. Once I build something to hide the railing and trim out the doors, it should rock.

scootermcrad · Jul 31, 2013

Those turned out nice!! Good work!

southernfriedcj · Jul 31, 2013

Thruxton said:
I used old windows in mine, here are some small pics:

Nice!

Thruxton · Jul 31, 2013

Doug, those are excellent - great concept!

383 240z · Jul 31, 2013

Thruxton said:
I should add one note: houses often combine and transcend periods. Your 1817 house has 20/21st cent. wiring for example. An old restoration architect from Philly once told me, speaking about some plans I had to improve livability in my 1845 Greek Revival farmhouse, "it's not a museum! Houses are alive when people live in them..." Even a place like Monticello reflects decades of change. So an absolutely strict adherence to period is not necessarily correct. But I do think it is good to avoid garish contrasts.

Partial de-rail here:
The main house was built in 1817, had a major addition in 1832, then again in 1855. Nothing was done again until the 1930's then again in the 50's.

The house is still very primitive (our style) the first build and the 2 additions are post and beam. The bath rooms are done in 1930s style, as thats when they were added. The kitchen is done, period "looking". Using primative materials. I'm making all the counter tops from 2" thick cherry. Here is a photo of the buttery that I made to replace the pantry

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Back to your regularly schedualed programing. Keith

Thruxton · Jul 31, 2013

Love it! Start a thread...

383 240z · Aug 25, 2013

I found inspiration for my carriage doors. I found these in an 1870 train station in Western Ohio. The wife and I went to an antiques show and I found the rail station by poking around the edge of town looking for what ever I could find. Met a man who is in the very early stages of restoring it. He was kind enough to open it up for us to explore. Here is one of the pics I took.

The plan is to make them in this style, but spit down the center with side hinges. These are the freight doors, they are on hung on rollers like a barn sliding door. Keith

cynthiahaviland · Apr 18, 2015

Hey:

What are the measurements for these diy garage doors and just how did they put them together?

ohal3000 · Jun 20, 2016

Thruxton, how are those doors holding up now that it has been several years?

Still no sag? Still solid and flat?

Thanks

dbeck72 · Sep 19, 2019

This design is great! Thanks for posting it. I've followed the design pretty faithfully, but I'm having trouble finding hinges that are actually rated for the weight that aren't ridiculously expensive. I'm wondering if you could tell me where you got yours.
Thanks!

like2wheel · Sep 19, 2019

dbeck72 said:
This design is great! Thanks for posting it. I've followed the design pretty faithfully, but I'm having trouble finding hinges that are actually rated for the weight that aren't ridiculously expensive. I'm wondering if you could tell me where you got yours.
Thanks!

He mentioned in post 16 that he got them at Tractor Supply, but that was in 2013 so I'm not sure they'd have the same today

Building carriage doors from scratch

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