How to remove '1' cylinder Head bolt head by drilling?

faran · Jun 13, 2013

Hi Guys-

So I am trying to do a Headgasket on my 1994 Accord EX F22B1 because of overheating issues.

Long story short, I am unable to pull the head and do Headgasket because of '1' Damn bolt.

I am drilling on the bolt right now with a Milwaukee drill bit and used engine motor oil as a cutting oil.

I am kind stuck now, not sure how to completely remove the head of the bolt, so I can pull the head?

Please have a look on the pictures and advice, I am kinda stump now. Because if I try to drill by using 9/16', it's not removing anything and seem like bolt head is not budging.

Thanks in advance for all of your help and advice.

Chaznsc · Jun 13, 2013

Why are you using such a large bit?

digdug18 · Jun 13, 2013

I'd say screw it and go get a junk yard motor for $150

jaker10 · Jun 13, 2013

Never mind. Didn't read post good enough. I think I would have tried to break the bolt by twisting off the head.

NitroShark · Jun 13, 2013

Do this..

Be carful and drill a 1/16 pilot hole .5 inches deep first. Center punch the hole first. drill with the larger bit at slow--- slow speed keeping a fair amount of feed pressure.

You do not want to break the 1/16 drill off. Be carful.

Shawn

wornoutoldman · Jun 13, 2013

NitroShark said:
Do this..

Be carful and drill a 1/16 pilot hole .5 inches deep first. Center punch the hole first. drill with the larger bit at slow--- slow speed keeping a fair amount of feed pressure.

You do not want to break the 1/16 drill off. Be carful.

Shawn

^^^^ Right on. It's a gradual process, start with a small drillbit and go up in very small increments. I would probably use a dozen drill bit sizes before the head of the bolt fell off. You only want to drill as deep as the bolt head is tall. Then hopefully you will have enough room to clear the stud that will be left behind.

T_Raven · Jun 13, 2013

Can you weld a nut to the bolt head and put a socket on the new nut?

GRX · Jun 13, 2013

I see what you're trying to achieve. Have performed similar operations before. Full agreement with posts 5 and 6.

Murphy4570 · Jun 13, 2013

You can't just drill it out with one big *** drill bit. Doesn't work that way. You gotta do it in gradual size increments, like has already been stated.

Easiest removal method would be weld a nut onto that sucker and zip it off with an impact wrench.

Expect that engine to be hosed from metal shavings now. You might want to just get another engine.

WILD-BILL · Jun 13, 2013

Get some real cutting oil and sharpen the drill bits. Going up in stages is the best move.

You'll be amazed the difference in cutting oil vs motor oil when drilling. I know I was.

tyheuser · Jun 13, 2013

That's just embarrassing

Houndogforever · Jun 13, 2013

DO NOT start with a 1/16 drill, all you will do is break it off and drilling 8 times the diameter to 1/2" is hard to do in a firmly fixtured mill. Start off with a 3/16 bit minimum and go from there.

Kevin54 · Jun 19, 2013

He can't punch a center in it as he has already started drilling it.

Sharpen the drillbit, and go at it with a slow speed. If the bolt is work hardened, go over to WallyWorld, the Hardware store, or some place like that and pick up a 9/16" carbide tipped masonry bit. That will get you through the work hardened portion. And I repeat, slow speed

The reason that he is using the 9/16" bit is that he's trying to get the head of the bolt off. Once he does that, he can lift the head off of the stud left in the block, then he can remove that by other means. Granted, he should have stepped it up in a couple of increments. 3/16", 3/8", then a half or the 9/16". He should be alright if he uses a carbide to get through the work hardened portion.

You could also get a Dremel and a carbide burr. Just cover everything else so you don't get shavings down in the block.

bsaint · Jun 19, 2013

"Good Luck Harry" I love working with metal just not any metal thats attached to an engine.

theknurl · Jun 20, 2013

hey faran;
this is the 2nd time you posted the same question......
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204362

you turn a drill too fast it will overheat.....you heat most automotive serious bolts (head, rod, crank and suspension)
they'll probably air harden on you

hell, you over did a high speed steel drill bit :thumbup:

so now go back and do it my way..... torque it and smack it with a single jack......it will undo or snap the head off (because you hardened it)

either way you can remove the head

:beer:

Herb · Jun 26, 2013

Make sure the engine oil isn't synthetic.

larry_g · Jun 26, 2013

I hate to get into this so late but I would suggest 2 things. One is that the 9/16 bit is to big, you only need a bit as big as the size of the bolt shank, I would also get a left hand thread drill bit as many times they will provide enough torque to spin out the bolt. In looking at this I assuming that this bolt has a recessed hex or torx head. If so then use a bit large enough to spin in the minimum size if the fitting.

lg
no neat sig line

Richard D · Jul 3, 2013

T_Raven said:
Can you weld a nut to the bolt head and put a socket on the new nut?

Plus the heat from welding will help loosen it.

regguy1 · Jul 3, 2013

Before resorting to drilling I hit the bolt head with a hammer a few times, sometimes that will break it loose enough to be loosened. 2nd I grind a notch in the bolt head so I have a place to 'bite' and try to rotate it using an air chisel. These techniques often will work and avoid the drill.work

T_Raven · Jul 4, 2013

Richard D said:
Plus the heat from welding will help loosen it.

Yeah, I've done it quite a few times on rounded or broken off bolts. Way easier than drilling if he has room to put a nut on top. Weld inside the nut, not the outside, then spin it out.

Junkyard_dog · Jul 10, 2013

T_Raven said:
Yeah, I've done it quite a few times on rounded or broken off bolts. Way easier than drilling if he has room to put a nut on top. Weld inside the nut, not the outside, then spin it out.

Same here I like the weld method over the drilling especially if you have the room for it.

rockchucker · Jul 10, 2013

Why not try removing the Bolt without doing ANYTHING to it?

I use these all of the time for stripped Head Bolts and many other Bolts. They have never failed me...

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-impact-grade-bolt-out-trade-damaged/p-00952165000P

Just work it on there slowly until it bottoms out. If it strips then go to the next smaller size. I do not recommend using an Impact Gun with these. You want it to cut slowly into the Bolt and start threading itself downward. Once it bottoms out you will get your bite to remove the stubborn Bolt. These are worth their weight in gold when it comes to stripped Bolts.

skulldrinker · Jul 10, 2013

You should of first "rattled" it with an air hammer and a socket.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675907&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Kevin54 · Jul 11, 2013

I think the OP bailed on us.

Kaasdief · Jul 14, 2013

T_Raven said:
Can you weld a nut to the bolt head and put a socket on the new nut?

I have never thought of this

How to remove '1' cylinder Head bolt head by drilling?

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