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Red Stained and Epoxy Clear new garage floor

Fun pain

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Red Stained and Epoxy Clear, now w/ Large Photos

This is my first "show me" post. My garage is 30' x 50' x 13'. The floor is vapor barriered, 2" of Fomular 250, 1/2" Oxy barrier pex @ 200' loops and then 5" concrete. The concrete is fiber reinforced. The floor has never had a vehicle in it at all, just foot traffic and some wood and plastic sawing done on the floor.

Prep;
I used a compact electric pressure washer, and two 18" foam squeegies. One for me and one for the wife.
Two good rinses and water sweeping took care of most of the loose dirt and mud.
Then the acid wash. We used the Rustoleum Etch, three packs 8 bucks a piece. Deviding the garage into 3 sections. One pack per section. Mixed with 2 galions of water in a garden sprinkle bucket. Sizzle and scrubed the entire floor, and just kept it wet. Once the water was running clean and clear. squeegied as much as possible. And let it dry. WITH A TORCH

this also helps get rid of the fibers from sticking out
 

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Fun pain

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We waited about 3 hours after the torching, for it to be completely dry. (lunch, played guitar and BSed). The to make sure it was clean, I ran my finger over a few spots with nothing coming off on my finger. I was sure it was as clean as it is ever going to be.

Then I broke out the color. Red Brick Oxide, Semi-transparent Stain by Rustoleum. I emptied the entire gallon into a Deck sprayer and test on the driveway rocks, to get a nice atomized spray, and moved inside the garage. Starting from the far corner, making random movements as I walked acrossed the floor backwards.

This is the first coat of color.

One from last garage door and one close up. The close up you can see the concrete showing through.
 

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Fun pain

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Waited one hour then the next color

Burnt Brick, Semi-transparent Stain by Rustoleum

The same tech. as the first color, but this time aimed for the lightly colored area.
 

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Fun pain

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Then back over the whole thing with the original color, Misted really over the whole thing. This doesn't show in the photos but it really made a hell of an impact on the "depth of color".

This is 1500 sf, Three gallons of Red Brick and Two gallons of Burnt Brick.

It's hard to tell ya how much better it looks in real life because of SCALE
 

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Fun pain

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Waiting and hour between color coats and 3 hours before clear

Rustoleums Premium Epoxy Clear Coat was used 3 kits. Rolled on with a 12'' roller, I had one helper moving the roller tray and Epoxy can on card board around with me as I move around in 5x5 sections. And two "Supervisors" outside telling me if I missed any areas before moving to the next section.

THIS MADE IT POP and SHINE and is the real wear surface, that can handle gas/oil/ cars and even JIN and Tonic spills :evil:
 

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bdamico

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Looks super. More pics -- maybe with a little more perspective to see what's going on.
 

mdameron

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Interesting that you etched it. I've been looking into doing the same thing in my new garage. I think it looks great! I had the understanding that a true etch eats away at the cementitious material that the acid reacts with.
 

drinkmoresake

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Nice looking floor!

Just a question / comment, I have always heard that you should never heat concrete with any type of torch due to the risk of explosion. Is this not true?
 
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Fun pain

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bdamico:

I will get some more, My prego wife was taking photos, and she was not allowed to go that close to the Epoxy fumes. She has an awesome camera, but standing 15 ft from the garage door, I am surprised the close turned out that good.


drinkmoresake:

by explosion, I can only guess you mean the trapped air expanding, fracturing the concrete. Sort of like a Kiln and ceramics... I didn't heat it up that much, I was standing in bare feet the last time I ran the torch acrossed it. I was walking right behind it most of the time, and yes it was warm maybe 80-90 degrees (concrete temp judged by my feet), but nothing to damageing.

The Fibered concrete has been known to let little hair looking fibers stick out and be seen in the Epoxy. ( I learned that on this site... Thanks all posters)
 

pauloman

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'epoxy fumes'???? most epoxies are solvent free and have no fumes. Are you sure it was an epoxy clear coat? All epoxies will yellow in uv and over time so it is important you know what you used.

paul
 

thegarageguy

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I didn't read it anywhere but did you neutralize the acid wash with baking soda or vinegar?
 
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Fun pain

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no baking soda or vinigar just 2-3 good rinse and dry


(I like Bob Harris from the concretenetwork.com very cool videos)
about 4:00 min into it, is the etch... I did almost exactly was he does, except I used Premium Clear Coat epoxy instead of the spray exterior sealer

For the clear I used this video method except they don't have a tint I liked, I wanted RED. So I used stain first to get the coloring I wanted. The additive in this video doesn't come in RED, but you can see how well theirs comes out as well. Mine is just RED. (I didn't used their roller method)


Preperation + Opertunity = LUCK

I have read and watched videos of different stuff for a few months now. I know what I bought and why.
The fumes weren't that bad really, this is pretty high in VOC according to Rustoleum, they also sell a low VOC for in home use, but my building with all the doors open is pretty open.... but... no fumes for my wife an baby, non AT ALL
 
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RocketTR

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Looks great. I might do something very similar in the near future, but probably more brown than red. As long as the color doesn't come out too dark, I'll be happy.
 
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bobscogin

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I had the understanding that a true etch eats away at the cementitious material that the acid reacts with.

Reading the info on Rustoleum's website, I see that they call it a "passive" stain, which I take to mean that it's a pigment that simply coats the surface of the concrete rather than actually reacting with the cementitious material as an acid stain would do. I'd prefer an acid stain.

Bob
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Looks fantastic! Thanks for the thread and the detailed description.

You've got to get the wife's camera out there at night and take a 'glamor' shot from the driveway while perched on a stepladder to get the high angle. That Red/Red/Clear combo rocks!
 
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waterskibumfl

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Wow that looks great! Did you put any anti-skid in the clear? Looks like it will be pretty slick if wet.
 

thegarageguy

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2 possibly fatal flaws...Bob Harris, whom I personally know, mentions triple rinsing the Rustoleum etch (an environmentally alternative to traditional acid), not triple rinsing muriatic or hydrochloric, which needs to be neutralized....which did you use?

2nd, he was using an acrylic sealer, which does not require and aggressive prep because it's very watery and easy to penetrate into concrete, unlike high solids epoxy. Bob Harris will tell you, as will most pros, that shot blasting or diamond grinding and creating a CSP Concrete Surface Profile) 3-4 or what would feel like 36 grit sand paper is crucial to proper epoxy adhesion. Not doing so would cause a weak bond where a condition like "hot tire pick up" is more likely to occur.

Just note, my first year in biz, all my floors where acid washed and all but one failed. Though the warranty must have expired, I am still expecting their call. I hope I'm wrong and I hope your floor stays beautiful. Good luck.
 

thegarageguy

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thegarageguy, how do acid-stained floors 'fail'?

Wow, you got me! Hahaha......

I'm gonna make believe you are not being a wise ***...

Acid staining is a concrete coloring method and not ever used in lieu of concrete preparation. Also, acid staining is typically not done in garages because the grinding process removes the lime in the cap of concrete where it's mostly concentrated, therefore making the acid stain useless. This is where concrete dyes are introduced.

Can you acid stain and acrylic seal a garage floor, YES, but it will eventually wear unless maintained with wax, which is not ideal in a garage.
 

mdameron

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No, definitely not being a smart A! I'm researching flooring for my new garage in September.

I really like the way stain looks so it's at the top of my list.

Not going to hijack this thread...
 

thegarageguy

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@mdameron, here is a grinded, honed, concrete dye stained, waterproof primed and satin polyurethane sealed garage floor in Short Hills NJ



 
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Fun pain

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The etch is Citric Acid.... according to the package.

All the post by all of you sales/dealers/contractors have said a hundred times is to follow what the "CAN" or the manufacture's directions. That is exactly what I did. It says if used in a Garage used the Epoxy Premium Clear Coat instead of the sealer. The second video I posted only uses the latter with a satin additive, I just didn't like the colors.

If you are saying I should of done it a different way then the Directions... That would be a first that I have read on this forum....

As far as failure... IT WILL happen in MY garage. I am an Engineer, Fabricator, Inventor, I WILL mess the floor up.

This is much much much, more economical and easy to repair, economically, and available everywhere for me to fix damage areas. The stain is even available in Spray Can's at Menards and Home Depot.....

You typed about flaws, here is the advantages

Looks awesome, convenient, economical, easy...winner, winner (for me)


Jbizzle: RED BRICK (RED OXIDE), and BURNT BRICK with Epoxy Shield Premium Clear Coat

waterskibumfl; Yes in the Premium Clear Coat kit it gives you the Anti-skid additive, and I used it. Hard to take a picture of but you can feel it
 
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Omphaloskeptic

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Looks fantastic! Thanks for the thread and the detailed description.

You've got to get the wife's camera out there at night and take a 'glamor' shot from the driveway while perched on a stepladder to get the high angle. That Red/Red/Clear combo rocks!





I forgot to add the suggestion of posting your nighttime shot to the 'Garages at Night' thread. Once again, it really looks great! I would dearly love to go the same route as you did once I am at the point in my organization effort to prettify the floor.
 
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Fun pain

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Standing on a Chair....hehe


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