Best Way To Clean Up A Drill Press?

Gregg33 · Jun 29, 2013

I bought a Buffalo drill press a couple days ago. It is in very good condition for a 40 year old unit. Fortunately unlike alot of other old drill presses out there there isn't much rust. However there is some slight surface rust (only on some areas) of the post and also on the cylindrical part the chuck attaches too. What is the best way to remove this rust without scratching the original "grain direction" of the metal. I was thinking of using steel wool or a Scotch Brite pad and going in the direction of the factory turning/ grinding pattern. I find for really rusty parts, sand blasting followed by a wire whjeel works good, but this is bigtime overkill for this almost un-noticeable surface rust. I also want some thing actually works, not speeding 5 hours with a metal polish. Any advice is appreciated.

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zkling · Jun 29, 2013

People go from mild to wild on their drill press restorations. I have seem many where people build a specific lathe to turn the column and then polish to a mirror brightness. They probably need sunglasses to operate them.

As for the rust removal without removing the facing marks. I would start with a flat razorblade then a very FINE wire wheel at slow speed. I am not a fan of steel wool or scotchbright, but of the two steel wool would be the better. Anything that has abrasives in it and is flat like sand paper will slowly remove the machining marks.

BTW, I think you got a really good deal on that machine. :thumbup:

Davefr · Jun 29, 2013

For the column I'd get a strip of emery cloth that comes in a roll and WD-40. Wrap a strip around the column and go top to bottom. For the base and table use about 150-220 grit discs and a RA DA.

I might take 30 minutes max. and will make a huge improvement.

Hornman · Jun 29, 2013

If you want to take off only the rust, use liquid Evaporust. It will remove only the rust and none of the good steel like the emery cloth will. I find that occasional brushing with a brass bristle brush will reduce the time referenced on the label without scratching the steel. Buy it at the car parts store. Just soak the parts.

Davefr · Jun 29, 2013

Hornman said:
If you want to take off only the rust, use liquid Evaporust. It will remove only the rust and none of the good steel like the emery cloth will. I find that occasional brushing with a brass bristle brush will reduce the time referenced on the label without scratching the steel. Buy it at the car parts store. Just soak the parts.

What???

Removing rust on a floor drill press with a tiny brass brush and evaporust??

I guarantee you that emery cloth won't remove enough "good steel" to worry about unless you're sanding it 24/7 for several decades. :lol_hitti

JasonW · Jun 29, 2013

I understand your desire to 'preserve'. The first thing I might try, if it is truly minimal surface rust, would be to spray it with WD40 and rub it with a wad of crumpled aluminum foil. Without seeing the rust, it is hard to say, but it does work, especially on chrome.

Outlawmws · Jun 30, 2013

It's hopeless, so to save you some grief, I'll PM you an address to ship it to for proper disposal.

:evil:

Wire wheel on a 4" mini grinder, and a light lube (Even WD-40 in this case) works wonders, light passes BUT wear coveralls or a shop coat you don't care about it's MESSY...

Ducati-Monster · Jun 30, 2013

If you have a soda blaster you could try that. It works really well for removing light rust and not much else.

WWIIjeep · Jun 30, 2013

zkling said:
As for the rust removal without removing the facing marks. I would start with a flat razorblade then a very FINE wire wheel at slow speed. I am not a fan of steel wool or scotchbright, but of the two steel wool would be the better. Anything that has abrasives in it and is flat like sand paper will slowly remove the machining marks.

^^^ X2

Here's a lightly-rusted table that was cleaned with the razorblade method, followed by a light polishing with 4/0 steel wool and kerosene. The finished product retained all of the original blanchard grinding machine marks, and some patina, if that matters to you:

It took 2 passes with the razor blade scraper as shown, followed by a few minutes for the polishing. All together, maybe 20 minutes total. Unfortunately, I can't find a photo of the finished product right now.

If the column is only lightly rusted, you can even use the razor blade method there, with strokes parallel to the length and the blade held at about a 20-degree angle, both up and sideways. You'll wear out a couple of razor blades on the round column, but it's an easy way to do a lightly-rusted column without changing the original surface finish. Medium-grit Scotchbrite (green or tan) works best for polishing the column after the razor blade treatment, using plenty of kerosene or WD-40 on the Scotchbrite pad.

Warrenator · Jun 30, 2013

I like the razor blade method posted by WWIIJeep, on the column you may try using Barkeeper's Friend (powdered cleanser and polish, available at many grocery stores) and a rag or scotch-brite pad or steel wool. It seems to work very well on rusty chrome and polished steel.

WD-40 and 0000 steel wool works good too. Wax after.

1982fxr · Jun 30, 2013

I've used green scotchbrite pads with a lot of penetrating oil and it left all the machining marks and still shined them up nice...

Best Way To Clean Up A Drill Press?

Gregg33

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zkling

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Davefr

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Hornman

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Davefr

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JasonW

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Outlawmws

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Ducati-Monster

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WWIIjeep

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Warrenator

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1982fxr

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