Quick question on triple square socket sizes...

I'm about to replace the axles on my daughters 2004 Passat. The inner flange connects to the transmission via 6 M10 triple square or XZN bolts. From what I've gathered, triple square are similar to Torx but triple square are 12 point whereas torx are 6 point? Also, there seems to be quite a bit of cheaper sets out there that have the M10 socket in them. I'd prefer to pick up a named brand, made in the USA if I can. I came across a set that Mac Tools offers here: http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/...38-drive-metric-triple-square-driver-set.aspx

What throws me off is that they're listed under Torx category but named triple square sockets. And second there's no M10 just 10mm socket. Is that the same thing? Any feedback on this set and more specifically sizing is appreciated.

Yes, XZN bolt heads have 12-sides, thus the name "triple-square."

I don't have the Mac set, but I do have a SK set that I bought to work on the Audi that I used to own.

skhandtool 19704

VIM has universal triple square sockets if you need them.

I think they go by the names XZN, triple square bits, serrated bits and possibly other names.

Anyway, I bought my bit at NAPA. They had them and they're made in the USA. I used some silicone to glue it into a small socket to make by own bit socket. It was cheaper than buying their Carlyle branded bit and they didn't have the Carlyle one in stock.

I'd link to the bit on the NAPA page, but their site is down right now. This VW Vortex thread has the part numbers:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...or-good-quality-triple-square-(serrated)-bits


I recently did a very similar job. I replaced the boots on one of the CV axles on my girlfriend's 2000 Beetle.

There's more pics/info in this thread, if you're interested:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199408

When I got into P-cars, conventional wisdom was that you must not cheap out on the 'cheese head' tools. So I've only ever used the SK and the Blue Point for stubby.
Both have been good.

Hmm, thanks for the feedback guys. My original question wasn't answered. The Mac Tools set lists a 10mm socket. Is the 10mm socket the same as the M10 size that other manufacturers list?

I looked at the VIM set but they're set is only about $10 less than the Mac Tools set and from what I gathered the VIM set is the OEM for Mac anyway. With that said, I trust Mac Tools and know where to warranty of one breaks. Not so if I bought a random VIM set off of Amazon for instance.

stephen9666 said:

I think they go by the names XZN, triple square bits, serrated bits and possibly other names.

Anyway, I bought my bit at NAPA. They had them and they're made in the USA. I used some silicone to glue it into a small socket to make by own bit socket. It was cheaper than buying their Carlyle branded bit and they didn't have the Carlyle one in stock.

I'd link to the bit on the NAPA page, but their site is down right now. This VW Vortex thread has the part numbers:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...or-good-quality-triple-square-(serrated)-bits


I recently did a very similar job. I replaced the boots on one of the CV axles on my girlfriend's 2000 Beetle.

There's more pics/info in this thread, if you're interested:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199408

Click to expand...

Saw that, thanks. I think I'm going to replace the entire axle. O'reilly has new axles with a lifetime warranty.

zruvalcaba said:

My original question wasn't answered. The Mac Tools set lists a 10mm socket. Is the 10mm socket the same as the M10 size that other manufacturers list?

Click to expand...

The M10 refers to the diameter of the threaded portion of the bolt, not the socket size required to turn the bolt. For example: An M10 X 1.0 X 40 = a metric bolt that has a threaded shank of 10mm in diameter and a thread pitch of 1.0 mm from one thread to the other. The distance from below the head to the tip is 40mm.

CWP1616L said:

The M10 refers to the diameter of the threaded portion of the bolt, not the socket size required to turn the bolt. For example: An M10 X 1.0 X 40 = a metric bolt that has a threaded shank of 10mm in diameter and a thread pitch of 1.0 mm from one thread to the other. The distance from below the head to the tip is 40mm.

Click to expand...

...and with that said, which socket in that Mac Tools set would I use to turn an axle bolt that requires an M10 size?

I have a two Passats. Both of them are B5's though but it's completely the same mechanical wise down there as your daughters B5.5.

I've changed both both driveshafts on one and another on the other.

I'd REALLY recommend that you buy the longest M10 socket as you can. I've got a Laser branded M10 which is 800mm (~32") and it is a BIG help. You dont necessarily need it to be 800mm but stubby's and mid length are a total NO-GO. I'd suggest ATLEAST getting a 100mm (4") bit socket.

The first driveshaft I changed was a PITA using a M10 bit that fit in a 10mm socket. The boot keeps getting in the way and forces you to work at an angle, almost making you round off the bolt.

If possible, get the sockets that are marked as XZN or Triple Square. Stay away from Spline and Ribe which, although look very similar to the XZN/Triple Square sockets, will screw you up big time. - Don't even ask.

Unfortunately I am not from the US so I don't know where to buy them but I just thought I'd help you out a bit with my former experiences

I have had several cars with triple square headed bolts (a boatload of CV joints on Audi Quattros) and have seen many bolts damaged by uninformed people who pound in Torx or hex bits instead of using the correct tool. A triple square is just that, 3 squares overlaid, each point is 90*. A Torx has a completely different profile.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

Any good set of triple square sockets (bits) will have the sizes that you need for VW work. Here is a good pdf on measuring the bolt head although if you have a set just use what fits.

http://www.metalnerd.com/downloads/triplesquaretable.pdf

The most successful way to remove a triple square is to clean out the recess in the bolt head with a pick or small screwdriver before inserting the bit especially on CV joints as they tend to collect road grit. I usually tap the bit slightly to make sure that it is fully seated in the bolt head before attempting to remove the bolt. On some of my cars (when working on the transmission end of the axle) I was able to use a long extension out and over (resting on) the brake caliper to get the best leverage. A screwdriver inserted into the rotor cooling fins and against the caliper will keep the axle from turning.