Any way to fix sprung adjustable wrench?

rusty65 · Jul 7, 2013

I bought this old adjustable made by canton malleable iron co from a garage sale a while ago with out knowing it was sprung until I got home but now to my question can they be fixed? Or is it just a wall hanger meaning not useable or serviceable. I'm sure many have these sprung adjustable wrenches but just don't have the heart to throw them away like me so what's your opinion guys and gals fix throw away or wall hanger?

devoncoolman · Jul 7, 2013

Only thing you could do is have a machine shop mill the head flat again. But that would cost more than a brand new chanelllock or crescent adjustable. I would do it my self with my mill in my free time. But if u gotta pay someone its a waste. Shame its a good tool but cost effective to fix? Unfortunatly No.

rusty65 · Jul 7, 2013

Yeah sounds like a venture that could get real expensive quick

. Thank you for the input I have never seen another one like it so that's why I was curious.

Gmonkee · Jul 7, 2013

I sprung my 12" on a job a year ago, pipes didn't do it well.
The screw adjuster still worked perfectly so.....

I reground the two jaws back to sitting well with each other with a hand held grinder. I also increased the max size to 1-5/8" where it had been 1-1/2". It never missed a day of work as the grinding took me maybe an hour of puttering about.

Forget the pro machine shops on this, just do it yourself and take your time to get it right. Adjustables are not quite precision tools from the start so what do have to lose?

ganymede · Jul 7, 2013

Looks like its just worn a lot as opposed to sprung.
I'd just take moveable jaw out, chuck it in my vise and flatten it with a ******* file.
Take more from the moveable jaw than from the fixed . Check for flatness and file , check, file, check, until the two fit right.

rusty65 · Jul 7, 2013

Thanks for every ones suggestions I think I'm going to try the filing approach to start out.

Chuck122 · Jul 7, 2013

Canton malleable iron... No ****

Sorry could not help it

bonneyman · Jul 7, 2013

Gmonkee said:
I sprung my 12" on a job a year ago, pipes didn't do it well.
The screw adjuster still worked perfectly so.....

I reground the two jaws back to sitting well with each other with a hand held grinder. I also increased the max size to 1-5/8" where it had been 1-1/2". It never missed a day of work as the grinding took me maybe an hour of puttering about.

Forget the pro machine shops on this, just do it yourself and take your time to get it right. Adjustables are not quite precision tools from the start so what do have to lose?

10-4 on this. I've done several smaller wrenches. The only thing I noticed were the jaws would never close 100% again. But who adjusts nuts that small with a Crescent wrench? Get the jaws parallel and you'll be fine.

AmericanPreferred · Jul 8, 2013

Four inch grinder and 5 minutes can fix than one easy for a while. I dont know if I have ever seen a mallable crescent wrench though, it may be pretty soft.

Steroblan · Jul 8, 2013

Don't waste your time, it will never be quite right with a hand file or grinder. The jaws look soft. Hang it on the wall.

Conductor562 · Jul 8, 2013

As others have said, grinding it yourself is the only cost effective way to save it, but it still may not be right. Despite that, adjustable wrenches really aren't precision tools anyway, so close is likely good enough.

Or

I like to throw my unwanted **** over the railroad tracks. I like to think of it as "composting". In your case it may be more fun to place it on the railroad tracks.

Outlawmws · Jul 8, 2013

Is it WORTH fixing? Probably not economically. But for the small amount of time invested, its a good learning experience. Yes, you may have a gap when done. Yes, it had problems before, but what was the cause? These wrenches are often set to tasks beyond their limits...

I'd give it a try, and I agree, the file method is the way to go.

If you wind up with a gap, take a look at what is keeping the jaws open, before stopping. It's likely that its the angle part of the dynamic jaw, and that could also be trimmed slightly, closing the gap.

Again, its not the destination in this case, it's the voyage...

Outlawmws · Jul 8, 2013

Steroblan said:
Don't waste your time, it will never be quite right with a hand file or grinder. The jaws look soft. Hang it on the wall.

Hmmm, So tell me, what does "Soft" look like in steel? :dunno:

Jrican · Jul 8, 2013

I would agree with the 'soft' comment. That looks like an explosive/spark proof wrench by the color of it.

jeremy v · Jul 8, 2013

Any time I come across a junky quality or worn out adjustable wrench, I grind it into a custom tool for a specific job. I don't know if you use a lot of air tools, but die grinders and other rotary air tools have that little stamped steel open ended wrench (which quickly wears out) to tighten and loosen the chuck. It is hard to use anything else instead, because the parallel wrench surfaces on the chuck are often not wide enough to get a regular open ended wrench or adjustable in there. You could take your adjustable wrench and grind both the jaws narrower overall, and then grind the bent part flat again and use the adjustable just for light duty tightening and loosening all your air tool chucks. Just an idea.

Here are some pics of what I am talking about. I didn't grind the whole jaw narrower for my purposes, I just put a bevel on the edges so it would fit all my air tool chucks. I think every one of my air tools has plenty of clearance for a regular open ended wrench to hold the tool shaft, but very few allow an open ended wrench to fit the chuck itself. You can see this in my first pic where my open ended 17mm wrench is just a little bit too thick to fit between the rounded sides of the parallel tightening notches in the chuck. Now with my modified adjustable I don't need any of the little stamped steel wrenches that come with the tools anymore and the same wrench works for all of them. It makes it much nicer changing out rotary bits.

Outlawmws · Jul 8, 2013

It doesn't look like BeCu to me, and if it were we would almost certainly be discussing the BeCu markings it doesn't seem to have...

I would also strongly doubt the "Canton Malleable Iron Co. (the company name not the material as far as I can tell...) was into making tools for that field of use. BeCu handling is specialized and only a couple of companies engage in it.

Moreover Canton was founded in 1892, and in 1958 was bought out by the Penn Machine co. for one million dollars. Unknown if the name continued...

I also find it highly unlikely that anyone would be needing a 4" crescent wrench for non-sparking use.

Gmonkee · Jul 8, 2013

Metals used in toolmaking have changed a lot in a century. Even today the alloy can vary wildly even though it looks like every other.

No steel is sparkless.

Early tools and even cheaper current production use carbon steel. Depending on many factors it can be hard or soft. I usually spot it by the thickness of the working end of a given tool. Thick is carbon steel and thinner is usually another alloy. Chrome, vanadium and molybium (sp?) are added into steel as well as precise tempering to give a tool its qualities of rigidity and hardness ranging from soft or springy to rigid and even brittle. Failure to get the process right is a failed tool, those don't hang around half a century. This one has.

I have a lot of tools well over 50 years old and all could be used tomorrow if need be. Saving this old adjustable as a user is easy. Maybe not in an industrial setting but in a home shop it will be fine.

ChevyEFI · Jul 8, 2013

Chuck122 said:
Canton malleable iron... No ****

Sorry could not help it

Outlawmws said:
I also find it highly unlikely that anyone would be needing a 4" crescent wrench for non-sparking use.

x 2

sberry · Jul 8, 2013

I say list it for 20 bucks, there will be someone that can save it despite the fact it could be replaced with one 2x as good for 4$ or less.

Outlawmws · Jul 14, 2013

So Rusty, what was the outcome? How did the fix go?

metaldad · Jul 14, 2013

Isn't the dust from grinding/filing/shaping BeCu hazardous to your health?

Outlawmws · Jul 14, 2013

metaldad said:
Isn't the dust from grinding/filing/shaping BeCu hazardous to your health?

Yes it is, However if you are talking about this post:

Jrican said:
I would agree with the 'soft' comment. That looks like an explosive/spark proof wrench by the color of it.

It was pure conjecture, and as I already said Highly unlikely. Easy test; try a magnet on any suspected tool or part, it won't stick. tht does not mean it's BeCu, only that it is not steel. BeCu tools are normally clearly marked. brass/ ordinary bronze generally not. those will also be VERY soft and easily dented, mushroomed compared to BeCu, which is VERY resilient. (They make Springs from the stuff for some uses. I've designed some myself)

Outlawmws said:
It doesn't look like BeCu to me, and if it were we would almost certainly be discussing the BeCu markings it doesn't seem to have...

I would also strongly doubt the "Canton Malleable Iron Co. (the company name not the material as far as I can tell...) was into making tools for that field of use. BeCu handling is specialized and only a couple of companies engage in it.

Moreover Canton was founded in 1892, and in 1958 was bought out by the Penn Machine co. for one million dollars. Unknown if the name continued...

I also find it highly unlikely that anyone would be needing a 4" crescent wrench for non-sparking use.

rusty65 · Jul 14, 2013

Ive filed the jaws as flat as possible but the issue is that moving jaw is very sloppy with the worm screw mechanism so it causes the moving jaw to tilt when something is placed in the jaws so unless that's fixed I don't think anything will ever sit very square in the jaws.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1373849738.046309.jpg

Outlawmws · Jul 14, 2013

Clamp that square nut in the jaws and scribe a line for where the jaw angle is on upset. At least then it's factoring that in...

devoncoolman · Jul 14, 2013

Just keep it as a cool momento. Not really worth all the time spent trying to save it.

rusty65 · Jul 14, 2013

Good idea outlaw. I'll do that for sure.

Outlawmws · Jul 14, 2013

devoncoolman said:
Just keep it as a cool momento. Not really worth all the time spent trying to save it.

At this point it's not about the destination but the journey. This is how you learn new repair skills, and if you Eff it up, it's no big deal...

larry_g · Jul 15, 2013

rusty65 said:
Ive filed the jaws as flat as possible but the issue is that moving jaw is very sloppy with the worm screw mechanism so it causes the moving jaw to tilt when something is placed in the jaws so unless that's fixed I don't think anything will ever sit very square in the jaws.

I'm assuming the tool on the left is the wonky one. Look at it from the side and see if the guide for the movable jaw is sprung open, allowing the movable jaw to rise up. If it is you could try to close it up with a vise or a few taps with a hammer.

lg
no neat sig line

toolmaven · Aug 27, 2013

Malleable means SOFT. In this case, malleable Iron is a heat treated cast iron that is soft enough not to be brittle, like gray or (horrors) white cast iron. Different metallurgy, iron-carbon microscopic forms & no iron carbide (cementite) etc. That said, malleable iron makes great vises and good c-clamps. It is used, along with normalized or annealed steel for the hardest soft-head hammers. For a wrench, it was a cheaper alternative to forged steel. Some monkey wrenches have both forged and malleable parts. Pipe wrenches are made of malleable iron, except the jaws. Can you fix it? Probably.

1. Disassemble if possible. 2. Place on a big anvil (cold) and "move" the metal back by hammering. The jaws will be thinner by a bit but if done right, they will close up. 4. Don't overdo it or even malleable iron will work harden & crack. 5. Carefully hand file profile. 6. Finish with fiber abrasive wheel closest in grit to original finish.

Outlawmws · Aug 27, 2013

toolmaven said:
Malleable means SOFT. In this case, malleable Iron is a heat treated cast iron that is soft enough not to be brittle, like gray or (horrors) white cast iron. Different metallurgy, iron-carbon microscopic forms & no iron carbide (cementite) etc. That said, malleable iron makes great vises and good c-clamps. It is used, along with normalized or annealed steel for the hardest soft-head hammers. For a wrench, it was a cheaper alternative to forged steel. Some monkey wrenches have both forged and malleable parts. Pipe wrenches are made of malleable iron, except the jaws. Can you fix it? Probably.

1. Disassemble if possible. 2. Place on a big anvil (cold) and "move" the metal back by hammering. The jaws will be thinner by a bit but if done right, they will close up. 4. Don't overdo it or even malleable iron will work harden & crack. 5. Carefully hand file profile. 6. Finish with fiber abrasive wheel closest in grit to original finish.

Hate to break this to you but it's made by the "Malleable Iron Co. not the material the wrench is made of.

Decent adjustable wrenches are made by Forging, not cast.

Cold Forging on an anvil will ruin the anvil's working surface. NEVER cold forge on a good anvil.

If I understand what you are describing, you seem to be trying to use the same technique as is used on framing squares when they get out of square. I strongly doubt that would work adequately on a forged wrench.

rick carpenter · Aug 28, 2013

Rusty, measure the body's channel opening at the open end versus the fixed jaw end. If it's sprung open there, fix that first. It will make the moveable jaw sit better "into" the body. THEN do the grinding on the jaws. Don't worry about if when it's all done and the jaws don't meet, you'll never find anything that thin you'd use this wrench on.

Fixing things like this into a decent user is very satisfying to me. Time + effort, who cares but you!

Any way to fix sprung adjustable wrench?

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