Crimpers: Channellock 909 vs Klein 1005 vs Other?

Davefr · Jul 17, 2013

I'm looking for set of dedicated crimpers. (not universal wire cutter/wire stripper/screw cutter combo tools).

Is there any significant difference between Channellock 909's and Klein 1005 for general purpose insulated and non insulated terminals ranging from 10 to 22 AWG?

Channellocks are cheaper. Is there any downside?

Is there another brand worth considering? (non ratcheting)

kngelv · Jul 17, 2013

Both are fine. In that style I would go with Thomas and Betts.

James

4x4gearhead · Jul 17, 2013

Either one of those will do the job, its hard to tell the difference in quality between the two as they are pretty much the same tool.

jakemac · Jul 17, 2013

+1 on Thomas & Betts !

I bought a pair of WT-111-M's in the late 80's and they're still going strong. Well worth the money.

Brownsfan · Jul 17, 2013

I have all 3. Why? I don't know. But I prefer the Klein. I will say the wire cutter on the channellock is better. The kleins crimp with the least amount of leverage which is important when doing a lot of crimps per day

Basskiller · Jul 17, 2013

I have both, prefer the Kleins. Keep them in my toolbag. Channellocks in home box.

box · Jul 17, 2013

ask 3 different people get 3 different answers...I have done a ton of crimps back in the day and the Channel Lock were hands down my go to tool, better then T&B, Klein and the Snap on version

I think the Channel lock are a little wider in the crimp area and have a more solid feel...

This is however, just my opinion, all will do the job just fine

jeffmoss26 · Jul 17, 2013

I have all 3 and they are all quite good.
Channellocks in my voice/data bag, Kleins in my audio bag, T&B in my toolbox.

ATC · Jul 17, 2013

****....I just ordered the 909's

The kind I currently have, are the ones that crimp behind the joint...back inside the handle area. I've always hated that style...

Davefr · Jul 17, 2013

Thanks. I just picked up the Kleins at HD.

The Channellocks and T&B weren't stocked at B&M.

Chadwilliam1 · Jul 17, 2013

I have both I cant tell the difference.

jeffmoss26 · Jul 17, 2013

I like the 'non-insulated' crimp part of the Kleins the best. I use that for insulated terminals as well. One of the old time sound guys I worked with taught me that trick.

CWP1616L · Jul 17, 2013

IDEAL 30-429

Brownsfan · Jul 17, 2013

jeffmoss26 said:
I like the 'non-insulated' crimp part of the Kleins the best. I use that for insulated terminals as well. One of the old time sound guys I worked with taught me that trick.

I do the exact same thing. That's why I actually prefered the 1006. But I lost them and could never find them again locally. So I just used the 1005 and got used to them and the rest is history.

Davefr · Jul 17, 2013

OK guys. I made some test crimps using ordinary hardware store blue insulated terminals and my Klein 1005 with 16 AWG wire. Here's a test crimp using the "INS" die:

I really like the quality of the crimp. Wire strands are evenly distributed and the crimp runs almost the entire length of the tube. (I sliced off the blue plastic insulator to have a peak inside)

Now here's a crimp using the same type of terminal/wire using the "NON" die. Notice a smaller portion of the tube length is crimped and the wire strands are not evenly distributed (bunched up in one side). In fact some of the strands aren't even in the crimp!!

At least for these terminals, it seems like the "INS" die produces a superior crimp.

jmm · Jul 17, 2013

Anybody try the newer Snap-On design? The little ones? How do they compare to regular sized crimpers. I've never tried T+B or Klein's, but I like my Channellocks just fine.

jakemac · Jul 17, 2013

Davefr said:
OK guys. I made some test crimps using ordinary hardware store blue insulated terminals and my Klein 1005 with 16 AWG wire. Here's a test crimp using the "INS" die:

I really like the quality of the crimp. Wire strands are evenly distributed and the crimp runs almost the entire length of the tube. (I sliced off the blue plastic insulator to have a peak inside)

Now here's a crimp using the same type of terminal/wire using the "NON" die. Notice a smaller portion of the tube length is crimped and the wire strands are not evenly distributed (bunched up in one side). In fact some of the strands aren't even in the crimp!!

At least for these terminals, it seems like the "INS" die produces a superior crimp.

Part of the problem with the second test is that you indented the terminal on the side with the seam, the indent should be on the solid side opposite from the seam on the terminal. That lets the tool cradle the seam so it is less likely to separate. It should give a more even crimp.

Davefr · Jul 17, 2013

OK, here's a crimp using NON with the tab hitting the side opposite the seam. It's better but still doesn't crimp the entire length of the barrel.

I think I'll stick with INS.

CWP1616L · Jul 17, 2013

kenfain · Jul 17, 2013

I needed a dedicated crimping tool also. Happened to be in hf. when I spotted a pair for five bucks. Have to admit, I wasn't expecting much. First time I used em, I was impressed. They are heavy enough, and they fit my hand comfortable. Easy to crank down on. Made a good.solid crimp. Now I'm not saying they're better than those others, but five bucks, it's worth a look.

jmm · Jul 17, 2013

kenfain said:
I needed a dedicated crimping tool also. Happened to be in hf. when I spotted a pair for five bucks. Have to admit, I wasn't expecting much. First time I used em, I was impressed. They are heavy enough, and they fit my hand comfortable. Easy to crank down on. Made a good.solid crimp. Now I'm not saying they're better than those others, but five bucks, it's worth a look.

The regular crimpers or the ratcheting pair? The ratcheting pair were on sale a few months ago at my local HF. The regular pliers I would probably try but, without hearing some glowing review, the ratcheting pair is something I'd steer well clear of.

LXCam · Jul 17, 2013

I have a few sets of both Klein's and T&B. I honestly have no opinion on which Is better.

jakemac said:
Part of the problem with the second test is that you indented the terminal on the side with the seam, the indent should be on the solid side opposite from the seam on the terminal. That lets the tool cradle the seam so it is less likely to separate. It should give a more even crimp.

But this I do agree with.

And Dave, it apears that terminal was too large for that conductor. What size were you using?.

mickeyone · Jul 17, 2013

I have kleins,ideal,and Thomas and Betts The T and B are the best 111m model. I have an older one as well with no cutter,that ones better in tight places.The old vaco 1900 also has reputation in theatre/film industry. Its an individual preference.

Davefr · Jul 17, 2013

LXCam said:
I have a few sets of both Klein's and T&B. I honestly have no opinion on which Is better.

But this I do agree with.

And Dave, it apears that terminal was too large for that conductor. What size were you using?.

I was using 16 AWG wire in a Blue terminal. Blue is for 14-16 AWG. I could have also used Red which is for 16-22 AWG.

Is it better to go big or small??

LXCam · Jul 17, 2013

Davefr said:
I was using 16 AWG wire in a Blue terminal. Blue is for 14-16 AWG. I could have also used Red which is for 16-22 AWG.

Is it better to go big or small??

Agreed on the sizing. But the greater the space taken up by the conductor the better fitment qualities imo. And please excuse me, seeing pictures on my phone doesn't always work out so well. It was difficult for me to make the judgement call on the sizing.

jakemac · Jul 17, 2013

Davefr said:
It's better but still doesn't crimp the entire length of the barrel.

It's not supposed to. By leaving un-crimped ends, it is less likely that the wire will pull out over time. If you crimp the whole terminal socket, you also flatten the end of the wire, making it more likely that the crimp will fail under stress.

Davefr · Jul 17, 2013

jakemac said:
It's not supposed to. By leaving un-crimped ends, it is less likely that the wire will pull out over time. If you crimp the whole terminal socket, you also flatten the end of the wire, making it more likely that the crimp will fail under stress.

Thanks, I'm learning a lot about crimping. Which of the previous crimp images is the best?

metaldad · Jul 17, 2013

jakemac said:
Part of the problem with the second test is that you indented the terminal on the side with the seam, the indent should be on the solid side opposite from the seam on the terminal. That lets the tool cradle the seam so it is less likely to separate. It should give a more even crimp.

Agreed

Davefr said:
OK, here's a crimp using NON with the tab hitting the side opposite the seam. It's better but still doesn't crimp the entire length of the barrel.

I think I'll stick with INS.

die is the same depth, whether ins. or non. on my various crimpers, i never use the ins. die. i always use the non, with ins. stacons.
yellow with 12, blue with 14, red with 16
and, I have all 3 crimpers mentioned.

skulldrinker · Jul 17, 2013

I have the Channellock one got it used but wished it was the Klien. Just cause I like Klein products.

jakemac · Jul 17, 2013

Davefr said:
Thanks, I'm learning a lot about crimping. Which of the previous crimp images is the best?

The last crimp looked good. But the indent should be more centered to the socket, and the wire could have more of a twist before crimping to keep the end from flattening. But then, when doing a lot of crimps on the job, most will look like that (many of mine have). It's fine.

Crimping and Cramping go together.

-- If my posts sounded snarky when read, I apologize. That isn't my intention. Print is a ***** to keep a light conversation going. :dunno:

--

dleonard1122 · Jul 17, 2013

... And I thought crimping was one of those "you really cant mess up" things. Learned alot from these two pages already. I definitely want to get a dedicated crimper now.

ATC said:
****....I just ordered the 909's

The kind I currently have, are the ones that crimp behind the joint...back inside the handle area. I've always hated that style...

+1. I feel like I have to put so much force into a crimp because I'm not getting nearly the amount of leverage I probably would if the crimping "part" was at the end of the plier.

Not much to add as far as experience, but I'll prolly just get whichever tool between Channellock or Klein that I see first locally and is a decent price. :beer:

SpiderGearsMan · Jul 17, 2013

http://www.crimptools.com/

SpiderGearsMan · Jul 17, 2013

Thomas And Betts For The Win

Chuck122 · Jul 17, 2013

jmm said:
Anybody try the newer Snap-On design? The little ones? How do they compare to regular sized crimpers. I've never tried T+B or Klein's, but I like my Channellocks just fine.

They are great. Although I do not own any of the pliers above, I can say that the crimps look real good and solid. They are small but the fact that the crimping dies are really close to the pivot point actually give leverage that would not be expected from such small pliers. The cutters and strippers are nice too. I also find that the gripping end at the very end of the jaw usefull allaround . I am glad I bought them

CWP1616L · Jul 17, 2013

Davefr said:
Thanks, I'm learning a lot about crimping. Which of the previous crimp images is the best?

plinker · Jul 18, 2013

I've got the Klien 1005's and just bought the 909's, I havent really used the 909's much yet to have an opinion, but I really like the Klien's. I mostly use insulated terminals at work and use that crimp location on the pliers.

At home, I use/prefer the non insulated terminals with shrink tube.

For the yellow 10-12 terminals, I like the Tool-aid ratcheting crimper, it makes sure you get enough crimp applied. The other jaws for open barrel and non-ins. terminals are nice to have as well.

I do not care for the Snap-on PWCS7CF crimper. I dont think it's enough for the yellow terminals for one and, I've seen too many people not crimp terminals properly with one (Not the fault of the tool itself).

monster1 · Jul 18, 2013

jmm said:
The regular crimpers or the ratcheting pair? The ratcheting pair were on sale a few months ago at my local HF. The regular pliers I would probably try but, without hearing some glowing review, the ratcheting pair is something I'd steer well clear of.

The dies are backward and upside down on the ratcheting crimpers I saw in hf. Poor copy of a good design imo.

ATC · Jul 18, 2013

dleonard1122 said:
... And I thought crimping was one of those "you really cant mess up" things. Learned alot from these two pages already. I definitely want to get a dedicated crimper now.

+1. I feel like I have to put so much force into a crimp because I'm not getting nearly the amount of leverage I probably would if the crimping "part" was at the end of the plier.

Not much to add as far as experience, but I'll prolly just get whichever tool between Channellock or Klein that I see first locally and is a decent price.

I spent all of 34 seconds searching, and found the 909's for $13.65 at www.tooldiscounter.com With shipping, it cost me $23. That's on the low end for what I see other Channellock pliers going for in stores and online....so I bit

cyato · Jul 18, 2013

For blue and red connectors, I like my old Blue Point crimper which is a rebadged Ideal 30-429 that CWP1616L posted and very similar to the Channellock 909s. I always felt that a wider crimp was better, but crushing the **** out of a connector is not good either. I have several pairs of the Snap On PWCSS7CFs and although they are handy, it takes a decent amount of pressure to make a proper crimp. If I was making a couple crimps, they would be fine, otherwise I would opt for the Blue Points.

For the larger yellow connectors, I use my Blue Point 29CFs which are rebranded Ideal 30-425s. They are beefy and make a very proper crimp on 12 to 8 gauge connectors. For 4 gauge and larger, I have a modified HF hydraulic crimper that works great.

1950mercury · Jul 23, 2013

t&b are the best than klein than channel lock ive used them daily for over 20 years

Crimpers: Channellock 909 vs Klein 1005 vs Other?

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