Building a Storage Loft in a pole building

SI86 · Aug 31, 2013

I got a 30x50x13 pole building and I would like to put in a storage loft to keep some stuff off the floor. I don't want any supports and I have to span 30' ]

I need some tips on what to use as my support beam to span that distance.
Should I use Steel I beam or a Laminated Beam.

There isn't going to be ALOT of weight up there so I didn't know if I could get away with a 8" Beam

Also I would like to use hangers off the side of the beam so I don't loose all of my head room. Is this Possible?

Also any pictures will help

Thanks guys!

SI86 · Sep 2, 2013

kossuth · Sep 2, 2013

You are at the least going to need supports on the outside portion of the span. No way would I think about trying to freespan something of this size off the existings poles etc. I'm not a building contractor but I would imagine the size of the poles you would need would be in the 6x6 neighborhood. You mentioned LSL or LVL beams, that is what I would look into. As for the hanging of the stringers off the sides of the LSL or LVL to avoid losing headroom, I don't think this is the best idea. Yeah they make metal hardware to complement hanging beams in this fashion and it can be done, but I'm of the opinion to not work against gravity whenever possible. I would give up the 8-10" of headroom and know you have something you can load up heavy vs always wondering.

SI86 · Sep 2, 2013

I was going to use 6x6s on the outside and lag them to the existing structural posts. I don't want to lose to much head room though ...

I have 13' height to work with and I need atleast 7' under the loft. I talked to a couple people and they were saying a Steel I Beam may be a better way to go instead of the LVLs. that I could possibly get away with a 8" to 10" Beam.

kossuth · Sep 2, 2013

SI86 said:
I was going to use 6x6s on the outside and lag them to the existing structural posts. I don't want to lose to much head room though ...

I have 13' height to work with and I need atleast 7' under the loft. I talked to a couple people and they were saying a Steel I Beam may be a better way to go instead of the LVLs. that I could possibly get away with a 8" to 10" Beam.

I wouldn't want to lag them to the existing supports. Personally the loft if it's going to be that big should be it's own free standing structure. You would have to jackhammer a part of the pad out to dig a hole for the poles and cement them in etc. Something with a 30' span is going to have a hell of a lot of weight and pull just on it's own, not withstanding after you load it up with stuff. Just putting an upright directly on the pad isn't the right way to do it either unless the area under the pad is rated for loads like that, which I doubt. You could lag it to the structural 6x6 too, but it needs to be done so that the load is not carried by the building posts but by the posts you set which are anchored in concrete. What I would be fearful of is snow/wind loads (don't know your location). I would hate to potentially weaken the building in some way shape or form. Those are my thoughts.

Bear · Sep 3, 2013

Here is a pic of mine - loft is 22x40.

SI86 · Sep 3, 2013

Hey Bear... That's pretty close to what im looking for. What did you use for the Beam? and what are they resting on? Also whats the dimensions of the beam?

SI86 · Sep 3, 2013

Bear said:
Here is a pic of mine - loft is 22x40.

any more pictures bear?

Bear · Sep 4, 2013

These are about 7 x 15 x 25 if I remember right. Probably way over kill but the price was right. The support posts are 6 x 8, outside posts lagged to the building poles which are set in 2' x 4' of concrete. Weight is carried by the concrete. Inside posts are set on 2 x 6 PT on 6" concrete. Some pics in no paticular order.

SI86 · Sep 13, 2013

Looks Good! I like how you did that.

bczygan · Sep 13, 2013

Start with the loads, live and dead per SF.

How deep will this loft be?

30' is a long span.

The closer together you get the beams (If there is more than one), the less the load on each. This allows the beams and joists to have less depth.

Steel is stronger than wood (LVL's), but attaching wood joists to the side of a steel beam adds some detail work (You need wood nailers attached to the web of the steel beam).

Steel will allow a shallower depth for the beam. If the loft is shallow and there is only one beam at the front, does it matter if the beam hangs down below the joists a couple of inches, or if it extends up above the joists a couple?

Another idea, if you don't need the whole loft to be open in the front, is a wood truss, with enough opening between members, and a deep enough bottom chord to accommodate the load.

larry_g · Sep 13, 2013

In my build thread below is my loft. I built it on a dividing wall so it does not meet your requirements for an open span. I might suggest that on each end of your 30" opening that you give up say 5' for a short wall and then your span is only 20' of open beam. That is what it looks like in Bears pictures.

lg
no neat sig line

bczygan · Sep 14, 2013

larry_g said:
In my build thread below is my loft. I built it on a dividing wall so it does not meet your requirements for an open span. I might suggest that on each end of your 30" opening that you give up say 5' for a short wall and then your span is only 20' of open beam. That is what it looks like in Bears pictures.

lg
no neat sig line

Actually, in bears photo, he does 2 things.
First, he spans the short direction with his beam, and uses more than one, to cut the spans in between those beams. Those beams are supported by the wall. Then he runs joists between those beams.
Secondly, as you say, he shortened the remaining beam length with the walls on each side.

The OP could do the same combination and go all wood.

Building a Storage Loft in a pole building

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