To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Rebuild kit for an OLD Proto Professional ratchet?

thebeekeeper1

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
1,011
Location
Illinois
I have an old Proto ratchet that probably is older than grandpa, so I don't expect anyone to warranty it, but it's slipping, so I was hoping to find a rebuild kit.

The head says:

5449BL PROTO
U.S.A. Professional

It's heavy and old looking, but is one of my favorites. The slipping is too bad now to make it useable, so can anyone point me in the right direction, as google has yielded nothing helpful. :(
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

thebeekeeper1

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
1,011
Location
Illinois
I'll give that a try--thanks! :)


Edit: No go on that, as they only show one rebuild kit, and it is for an SK Professional and looks totally different than the "guts" of this ratchet.
 
Last edited:

MJB24

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
662
Location
Minnesota
I still have that rebuild kit from Grainger when I tried rebuilding the same ratchet as you. They weren't the same so I called Proto and they had me send in the ratchet and they sent me a new one

I think mine was 5449L and my replacement ratchet was J5450

The good news is the repair kit works with my new ratchet so now I have a free backup repair kit
 
Last edited:

SMKS

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2010
Messages
5,832
Location
USA, planet Earth
Your rebuild kit is number J5449RK.

As noted above, Amazon would probably be the cheapest place to get it, unless you find a deal on one on ebay or somewhere.

Proto still makes this ratchet. It just uses the normal rebuild kit that all the 1/2" ratchets of this style use.

http://www.protoindustrial.com/en/i...-Classic-Pear-Head-Ratchet-10"---Black-Oxide/

J5249BL.png
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

kythri

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
6,330
Location
Lebanon, OR
So, just hammer-peened? Please, consider me and idiot, and explain the procedure for this. I've got an old Plomb/Proto 3/4" that's missing the lever and needs a rebuild. I've got the kit, but I haven't attacked it because of that lever.
 
OP
T

thebeekeeper1

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
1,011
Location
Illinois
So, just hammer-peened? Please, consider me and idiot, and explain the procedure for this. I've got an old Plomb/Proto 3/4" that's missing the lever and needs a rebuild. I've got the kit, but I haven't attacked it because of that lever.

I've had it apart and decided I'm just going to leave the selector and the little toggle it attaches to alone. The inside toggle thingie doesn't look like a "wear part" anyway.

Anyone with more experience think that's a bad idea? If it is, I'm sending it in for them to deal with it. :dunno:
 
OP
T

thebeekeeper1

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
1,011
Location
Illinois
After thinking about trying to peen the selector into place I decided to call Proto Industrial (phone readily found on one of the links above), and I was quickly connected to a nice Southern belle who, using that lovely Jawjah accent, gave me the name of a local business who is an authorized distributor for them.

I went there, presented the ratchet, along with the rebuild kit # (found above, and confirmed by her), and was told they don't have them, sell them, or do anything other than send the ratchet in for replacement. He said I needed to pay $7-8 for shipping to them, and that was my only option.

I shrugged and said okay, signed the paperwork, and left--a happy camper. I don't think it's right for an OLD ratchet (of unknown ancestry) to be replaced with a shiny new one, but that is their choice, not mine.

Thanks again to all for your help--you guys are the BEST! :beer:
 

kythri

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
6,330
Location
Lebanon, OR
I've had it apart and decided I'm just going to leave the selector and the little toggle it attaches to alone. The inside toggle thingie doesn't look like a "wear part" anyway.

Anyone with more experience think that's a bad idea? If it is, I'm sending it in for them to deal with it. :dunno:

If it's secure, I don't think it would have been a bad thing to leave it and use the rest of the kit - I certainly would have with my old pebble 5649, but that's the very part that's needing replacement.
 

WWIIjeep

Well-known member
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
1,240
Location
Arizona
So, just hammer-peened? Please, consider me and idiot, and explain the procedure for this. I've got an old Plomb/Proto 3/4" that's missing the lever and needs a rebuild. I've got the kit, but I haven't attacked it because of that lever.

Assemble the pin and lever on the ratchet and a little nub of the pin will stick up through the lever. Support the pin from below (like with a pin punch held in a vise) and use the ball end of a small ball peen hammer to hammer around the edges of the nub to flare it over the lever. It will deform relatively easily and hold the lever in place.

You can also do the shaping of the nub with a pin punch instead of directly with the hammer.
 

SMKS

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2010
Messages
5,832
Location
USA, planet Earth
I just supported it from below and whacked it with a hammer and it worked for me.

On a lot of Proto ratchets you don't need to replace the selector lever unless it's loose or damaged. I've rebuilt a couple and just left the old selector in place.
 
OP
T

thebeekeeper1

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
1,011
Location
Illinois
Reviving this because I got a call today from the "factory distributor" place to pick up my brand new ratchet. Just $8.50 for shipping to Proto later and I have a beautiful new ratchet. It has a black oxide finish, but is otherwise identical to my <old as the hills> one. Proto really went "above and beyond" for me.
 

Neverfly

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2013
Messages
372
Location
Arlington, TX
The selector is a wear part and I advise to Always Replace it.
You'll end up doing it anyway. I've had it go out on my Proto 5649 and on my Plomb 5449.
Everything else was fine... The selector knob, however was worn to the point of slippage.

WWII Jeep explained how easy it is to replace in post number 14 above.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom