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Opinions of Speed Out's to remove screws

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bobtheman04

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
24
My bad, didn't look closely enough at this. I haven't seen these before!
 
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rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,493
Location
visalia ca
Just a new name on something that has been around for a while
I have used them with mixed results, but that have in fact worked

Bob
 

spotco2

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2012
Messages
1,050
Location
NW Georgia
They work well enough and are cheap enough to have a set on hand to at least try before drilling a screw out.

I think the sets that I have came from Sears but look the same.
 

richfinn

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
4,809
Location
Leeds, Yorkshire, England
I use something very similar for extracting shear type security bolts on steering column locks and PCMs etc.

Seized in thread, bad enough to shear off a bolt/screw head

Forget about it :)
 

ndoran

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
496
I have a set. Used em once then hammered them into a piece of wood to use a pegs to hang things on - they work well in this application.
 

Packard V8

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
7,380
Location
Spokane, WA
Many years making my rent in sales and marketing has taught me, "The more advertising necessary to sell a product, the less needed and/or desirable it is. Users search for needed products. Good products almost sell themselves through word-of-mouth."

Also, "The more money spent on advertising, less is left for the quality of the product."

Your opinions and results may vary.

jack viens
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,493
Location
visalia ca
If I recall they say the trick with these is to not turn them too fast when trying to reverse the screw out. They need to go slow to grab and just ease the screw out

Bob
 

airplane

New member
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
1
It is the same thing as the original grabit (the one Billy Mays used to promote).

It's half decent, but really only useful for screws. It's made in China and of same lightened quality. They also make a pro version in the US that is rated for screws AND bolts under the Grabit Pro name. It's essentially $1 more if you buy it from here. http://www.thegrabitstore.com/Pages/default.aspx

I had both and the Pro is vastly superior from sharpness to durability.
 

Paws

New member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
1
Thanks for the quick review.

I'll opt for the Pro Grabit ...Made in USA steel.

Have a great day. :)
 

ChevyEFI

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
8,705
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Haven't used mine in about 10 years; they're Craftsman. I just lean into the drill so the normal bit works.
 
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edski

New member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
1
just wish I had gotten mine, I could attest yea or nay to their claims. Ol' P.T. was right about them suckers! We ought to form a UNION ! send me the dues of course! (this thought is brought to you by the "if you cant beat 'em- join 'em" saying)
 
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7

77thor

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
1,309
Location
Milwaukee, WI USA
Well I did buy those and I get mixed results using them.
It's about 50/50...
I seem to get the best results when going very slow backing out the screws.
 

Bricago

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
83
Location
Chicago
I just had success with Speed Out removing three tough screws holding the jaw inserts on two Craftsman vises. Two of the screws had mangled Philips heads that couldn't accept a screw driver or hand impact driver. (Photo 1) The third screw had completely broken off flush with the surface. (Photo 2)

photo_2.jpg

Broken_screw.jpg


Rather than use the drilling side of the Speed Out, I used a 1/8" left hand twist drill bit to drill a hole about 3/16" deep. (I was hoping that drilling alone would cause the screw to grab and back out. Not this time, though.) Then I used the extracting end of the Speed Out with my drill set to the drill setting for maximum torque. It only took a few gentle, low speed tugs with the drill to get the bit to grab the screw and back it out. :thumbup:

photo_59.jpg
 

kunkernator

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
2,438
Location
US of A
I have never used a speed out, i always thought they were gimicky. I guess you proved me wrong.

In the past, i would drill with a left hand drill bit, then use a fluter extractor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

warweapon762

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2013
Messages
323
These work ok. My only complaint is they break the head off the screws occasionally. If you go slow with a drill that has some torque to it, it works well. Impacts dont give good results like the do with the bolt extractor sockets.
 

Ratchet Guy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
175
Location
Richmond, BC
twisted off a head of one oil pan bolt, the trick is I use a cobalt bit to drill into the headless bolt to have a grove that this thing will be able to hold on to then use one of this on a drill in reverse slowly and it came out.
 

Bricago

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
83
Location
Chicago
...the trick is I use a cobalt bit to drill into the headless bolt....

Do you use a regular drill bit or a left hand drill bit? It seems like either one should work, since in theory they're drilling a smooth bore hole. I used a left hand drill, and I noticed that the drilling end of the SpeedOut is also a left hand drill.
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,092
Location
AZ
I have a similar set made by Alden. They're rock stars but also cost 6 times as much.
 

Ratchet Guy

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Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
175
Location
Richmond, BC
Do you use a regular drill bit or a left hand drill bit? It seems like either one should work, since in theory they're drilling a smooth bore hole. I used a left hand drill, and I noticed that the drilling end of the SpeedOut is also a left hand drill.

I used a regular drill bit because thats was the only one i have to create a center point where the extractor can sit in the middle and I used it bec the broken of part doesnt have any flat surface and the extractor works on counter clockwise motion, using a drill bit that is oriented for counter clockwise is the same but you still need to do it in a slow and continuos motion to let the sharp edge grab it and extract it out.
 

beamrider

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
533
Location
Columbus OH (displaced from Wheeling)
I just used a GrabIt last night to extract 5 #3 Phillips screws, from a metal door frame. Heads were stripped to the point I thought I'd have to drill them out, but remembered I had the GrabIt, figured I'd give it a try. Worked like a charm! The key, I think, is to go VERY slow with the extraction, until it grabs the screw/bolt solidly.
 

BMack37

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
1,091
I just used a GrabIt last night to extract 5 #3 Phillips screws, from a metal door frame. Heads were stripped to the point I thought I'd have to drill them out, but remembered I had the GrabIt, figured I'd give it a try. Worked like a charm! The key, I think, is to go VERY slow with the extraction, until it grabs the screw/bolt solidly.

I wonder if I would have had more luck with the Speed Out if I used a bit driver instead of my drill. I went as slow as my Milwaukee drill would go but it refused to bite into the screw at all.
 

Bricago

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
83
Location
Chicago
Improvised Impact Driver

My 20v drill wasn't providing enough torque to extract a stripped screw from a jaw facing. I've had good luck with a Speed Out for this situation, but my manual impact driver can't chuck up a Speed Out. This seemed like a long shot, but it worked. Recalling Get's advice on using the tools you have on hand and JRobb's warning about extractors breaking off, I proceeded with caution.

Starting with light taps, the wrench bounced in place. Gently and gradually increasing the force got the wrench turning and the screw out.
 

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