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Low-Buck Approach to the Strong Hand Build Pro Welding Table

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Jtcrep

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Apr 20, 2013
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Looks good. Tell us more about the process. Did you weld the top plates on? Are your hole threaded? I am thinking of doing something similar but was going to thread the holes so I can use the hold downs off the mill.
 
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Richard D

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First I cut the 20' lengths of 6"x5/8" hot rolled flat bar into 48" pieces, and cleaned up the ends with an endmill. They are not all precisely the same length; I just wanted a smooth edge. It's a welding table, not a machine tool. I then drilled and countersunk 8 holes in each of the nine plates, 72 in all.




The plates are spaced 1/2" off the frame of the table so the clamping jigs can slide between. So I cut 36 pieces of 1"x1/2" flatbar.


I drilled and threaded these, 72 times. I bolted them to the plates so I could space the plates and weld the spacers to the table from underneath.1" was too narrow! ****, did it over again with 2"x1/2", and 72 more holes, drilled and tapped.
 
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Richard D

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I have since replaced the bolts with sockethead capscrews. I am in the process of adding brackets to hang my grinders, portaband, power strips, etc. I'll put up more pics later. I'll have to use it a while before deciding to break out the mag drill and adding the grid pattern of holes like stronghand did on theirs.
 

pepi

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I like it nicely done. What clamps are you planning on using, the stronghand or you have something else in mind?
 

NUTTSGT

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Looks like a great build.

Have you considered an angle bracing from the frame to the legs ? I just wonder it it will attempt to "wiggle" once you get more weight on the top while you're working.
 
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Richard D

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Got some brackets mocked up to hang my grinders and Portaband.



Need to get some heavy duty drawer slides:

A closeup of the sliding clamp "pucks" as I call them. They are drilled 3/8"-16 on one side, and 1/2"-13 on the other. I got a piece of 2"x1/2" flatbar, drilled and threaded it for a stud, and tacked a toggle clamp on there to see how well it works. Sure would be nice if I could find cheap toggle clamps with a stud mount!
 
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LX-Markham

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Read this thread and the linked thread, both amazing looking tables.
Some great ideas, never thought of making the table with slats for clamping. Always kinda thought I would just make the table a flat, solid surface.

What kind of finish are you guys using on the steel? or just leaving it bare?
 

Duker

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Livingston, TX
Here's my inspiration:
http://stronghandtools.com/buildpro/
Really nice, but way out of my meager budget. So I got some 6"x5/8" flat bar, some 2"x1/2" flat, and some 2"x4"x1/4" wall rectangle tubing. Then put the portaband and the milling machine to work. Ended up with this:

I have more photos if anyone is interested.

Richard, the table looks great! If you make any clamp jigs etc would love to see you post them. I am having to get creative using unistrut for my clamping needs and I am looking for ideas.
 

Strouty

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That came out really nice, I was looking at those tables a while back. I may make a smaller version, I already have some big fab tables. I would make a shield over the top of the portaband, welding splatter will make a real mess of it.
 
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Richard D

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Duker, I will be making jigs as needed, I'll post them up.
Strouty, I've already ordered materials to make pans to slide out either end, to contain sparks as well as catch items that fall between the plates. I have used the table a bit and already love the convenience of clamping. I have decided I will mag-drill the two end plates, and the middle, the same way Stronghand did theirs. Maybe a single row of holes for starters, and see how much they get used.
 

rancherbill

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A closeup of the sliding clamp "pucks" as I call them. They are drilled 3/8"-16 on one side, and 1/2"-13 on the other. I got a piece of 2"x1/2" flatbar, drilled and threaded it for a stud, and tacked a toggle clamp on there to see how well it works. Sure would be nice if I could find cheap toggle clamps with a stud mount!

Can you post a pic of the puck by itself.

I have an I-beam I was thinking of cutting hacking and burning to make it a welding table. It would end up similar to yours.

The pucks are my big question.

I was going to add a receiver mount for a vise and pipe vise
 
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rancherbill

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I've seen this pic before
t51300.jpg


To me it just looks like it slides from the outside to the desired location and sits there loose. I can see how you can put a stud or something into the stud and it wont turn, but, I don't see how the puck is locked in the location
 

bullnerd

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Very cool,nice job.
I think the only thing I would do different(like that matters!)is after welding on the little plates for bolting the top plates down, is take the whole frame and have them blanchard ground with the frame in a relaxed state.This will make the top plates very flat. Then bolt the legs on so it doesnt warp the frame again. I think I would also "try" to space the plates to use standard t-nuts. But not sure on the t-nuts,might not be enough clamping options.

Hmmmm..t-nuts with magnets in them to hold them under the table...?
 

ilovevocs

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I had considered blanchard grinding, shimming the plates, bolted legs, etc. for ultra precision, but for my uses, it just isn't necessary. Just a really nice welding table.

Well said. No need to incur the additional expense / time for a piece not used to that level of precision.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Strouty

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Duker, I will be making jigs as needed, I'll post them up.
Strouty, I've already ordered materials to make pans to slide out either end, to contain sparks as well as catch items that fall between the plates. I have used the table a bit and already love the convenience of clamping. I have decided I will mag-drill the two end plates, and the middle, the same way Stronghand did theirs. Maybe a single row of holes for starters, and see how much they get used.

That makes me feel better! I like the idea of the catch pan. I have a 4 by 10 table that is pretty rugged. I was thinking about drilling and tapping a bunch of holes, but I figure if I need them I can always add them. So far I just tack weld to it. I do like your idea and may make one similar for a more portable table. How heavy do you think she is?
 

Dale1962

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central illinois
heres my welding table top.. a work in progress
its 2- 2 1/2 stringers, 2x4 tube alternating with unistrut. I ended up with 8 receivers for vise, grinder, whatever. can clamp about anywhere and the unistrut lets me make fixtures or more clamp places
 

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Strouty

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The unistrut is good idea, but with the ends closed off, you can't slide anything in there.

The spring nuts for unistrut go in then turn 90 degrees to lock. It would work pretty well.

You could remove the springs so they move easier as well.
 

bluebolt

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Dec 28, 2008
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heres my welding table top.. a work in progress
its 2- 2 1/2 stringers, 2x4 tube alternating with unistrut. I ended up with 8 receivers for vise, grinder, whatever. can clamp about anywhere and the unistrut lets me make fixtures or more clamp places

Cool idea. I see a 1960's/70's Craftsman workbench hiding under there!
 

Dale1962

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central illinois
Cool idea. I see a 1960's/70's Craftsman workbench hiding under there!

yes, had to cut the sides down to get it to fit. table has 2 wheels on 1 end and a wheeled trailer jack on the other. have a bar welded on the back side for clamps. plans are a swing out grinder rack on 1 end and an air outlet too. oh, and make some hold down clamps,
 

bluebolt

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yes, had to cut the sides down to get it to fit. table has 2 wheels on 1 end and a wheeled trailer jack on the other. have a bar welded on the back side for clamps. plans are a swing out grinder rack on 1 end and an air outlet too. oh, and make some hold down clamps,

Sounds cool start your own thread with more pics. I like the trailer jack idea thought about something similar myself.
 

Brad54

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Jun 13, 2006
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For toggles with a stud, try Vise Grip drill press table clamps.
Probably not "Cheap," but you could get three or four, and they have a stud on them, so you'll save hassle, which is always worth something.

-Brad
 
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