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My Cow Town Garage Journal

jwest7788

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Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Hello All,

Recently decided to fix up my garage, stumbled across GJ and decided I would use the forum as a place to document my own garage revamp.

I'm aiming for somewhere to tinker, and am planning on having a "hangout" corner of some variety. (I figured I'll finish up fixing the old coke vending machine, pack it with beer, setup a TV etc.) Still planning and fixing drywall for now though.

Started by ripping out much of the cabinets the other day, so no proper "before" photos, but attached are where I'm at as of yesterday!

Place is already 3 truck+trailor loads cleaner then when I started. :)


I plan on taking pics and posing questions as they pop up! Likely once a week, as my budget's tight, but I have high asperations. (Figure this means a slow process.)

--> First question, Any thoughts on an entire pegboard wall?
This stuff seems like an awesome solution for all the shovels, cables etc. kicking around that don't really work in cabinets. Just not sure if a whole wall would be overkill.

Thanks for all the great info here at GJ!
 

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budco

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Oct 4, 2013
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43
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FL
I'm not a fan of a lot of pegboard myself, I think it makes things look too messy. I have some over part of my work bench with some hand tools and that's it. I've found most of the stuff I hang up there doesn't need to be. I think when I build my next shop there won't be any...
 

MoparTrucks

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Aug 21, 2009
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Location
Ozarks of Missouri
Looks like you have a nice big space to work with. I am not a peg board fan either as I have never had much luck keeping the hangers from pulling out of the peg board.

Ever think about just laying up some plywood and stain or paint it then use proper hangers screwed to the plywood?
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
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45
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Looks like you have a nice big space to work with. I am not a peg board fan either as I have never had much luck keeping the hangers from pulling out of the peg board.
--> It definitely feels huge now that I've removed most of the junk.
----> Pegs pulling out, is this related to too much weight on them, or just in general?

Ever think about just laying up some plywood and stain or paint it then use proper hangers screwed to the plywood?
--> Actually no, this may be a good solution too.

Up until recently I've had lots of deep cupboards / cabinets (mix and match old stuff) lining the walls of my garage. This stuff takes up tonnes of space and I was not using it well at all. This is why I'm hoping for something tight to the wall like pegboard (or hanger screws) to keeps space usage optimal.
 

MoparTrucks

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Aug 21, 2009
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3,218
Location
Ozarks of Missouri
I had peg board in my old shop which was a converted single car garage and even light weight items tended to work the brackets and holders loose after a while but I know there are some new designs that work better.

For lawn type equipment, they make some pretty good hangers designed to carry that kind of weight and keep them secure to the wall and even if you had peg board on one wall you could hang a ledger board for those to screw into.

By the way, your recessed lighting is a real plus in my opinion. It looks clean and sleek and wont attract the dirt.
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
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45
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Cleaned up some more today. Spent time packing tools and rattle cans into boxes.

Man it's super time consuming. You never realize how much **** you've hoarded over the years till you're trying to move it.

Thinking that maybe I don't need peg board, just like the idea of it.

I'm realizing that this really will be a project. Couldn't be happier.

Will keep this thread as active as my budget to move forward permits!


Sent from my iPhone.
 

BMW Rider

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Apr 8, 2010
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347
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Hello from another Calgarian.

Lots of potential there. If you want to do a wall for hanging stuff, perhaps slatwall rather than pegboard would be the way to go. It looks nicer and will hold heavier items. Probably a bit pricier though.
 

tornadocaster

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Apr 25, 2012
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278
Location
Edmonton, AB. Canada
Hey welcome from Edmonton. If you're starting from scratch, if you have Eddies professional hang ups there or any of the store merchandising stores, they have the fixtures, slatwalls, wire mesh boards, etc that you see in stores.
Some of the items like the wire baskets and brackets you can't get cheaper than those kind of stores. Whats nice bout the wire stuff, is you can have a cool feature wall color and then place the wire racks over it in a complementary color or chrome.
Also if in doubt throw it out.
Cheers
Gio
 

Jagmandave

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Nov 6, 2011
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Location
Overland Park, Ks.
I also am not a big fan of pegboard, and I prefer storing the shovels, rakes and implements of destruction someplace other than the garage, but that's also partly because my garage is not that big. So I built a shed off the back of the house to hold all that stuff.

Now the garage just has car stuff and tools in it.
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
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45
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Calgary, AB, Canada
Alright, Here's my plan as it formulates:

1) Patch and mud drywall (Day one photo attached)
1a) Move all camping, gardening, and junk into the shed, or to the dump.
1b) Remove last remaining shelving and patch and mud behind.

2) Paint
--> Having troubles picking a colour scheme, Light or dark? What makes sense for a garage? I'm thinking about oily finger prints, sawdust (Beer spills, lol)

3) New shelving, maybe save up for some nice prefab metal garage stuff

4) Flooring, I've been researching alot and think that PVC tiles will work well for my skill set. The last owner has about 90 layers of floorpaint / sealer flaking up all over the place, I figure it's easier to just cover this mess up rather then scrape it off to do epoxy, or proper tiles. Thoughts?



What is the general consensus on making cabinets VS buying home depot / ikea etc?
 

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AndyL

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Feb 22, 2012
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Vancouver
You can buy em cheaper than you can make em... Generally ;)

That said star building mtl down on Blackfoot/alyth has some nice prices on gladiators(?) Memory is failing.

Want to come do mine next? Think you get tons of stuff hoarding - try using yours as a company warehouse ;) my wife had thoughts of one day parking in the 30x26... LOL she has realized the error of her ways now ;)

Hi - from just NE of cowtown ;)
 

Lord Vader

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Nov 26, 2013
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54
Location
Calgary, AB
2) Paint
--> Having troubles picking a colour scheme, Light or dark? What makes sense for a garage? I'm thinking about oily finger prints, sawdust (Beer spills, lol)


What is the general consensus on making cabinets VS buying home depot / ikea etc?

I prefer darker, or bolder colours myself. Darker colors may require more light fixtures to help it feel larger and not dark.


Hi - from just NE of cowtown ;)
Hello from a fellow Beyonder...
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Not sure if anyone actually cares, but recently:
Ripped the rest of the shelving down
packed up all my tools
Un-boarded the window that the last guy sealed shut.
Began ripping out the old workbench.
Bought myself a decent toolcabinet for proper tool storage.*

Now almost have full access to the walls! Woot.


Damn this process is *** backwards, I keep packing tools, then needing them, then realizing they are in the way, followed by repacking. Rinse and repeat.


*I bought this thing:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/husky-40-inch-w-10-drawer-tool-chest-cabinet-set/856461
(Price was right, not worried about quality as I'm a weekend warrior not a pro)

Once fully loaded with tools, will I still be able to wheel it around? Or should I wait till it's in it's 'final resting place'?
 

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Cword

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May 25, 2006
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294
Location
Calgary, Alberta
My preference is cabinets and cupboards over shelving.
I work in my shop alot, open shelves collect filth, whether it's paint over spray, saw dust and all the other stuff that flies around the garage. Also the stuff stashed on shelves tends to absorb the light and add to the darkness of the walls.
Light coloured cabinets keep the shop bright and all the stored stuff clean and ready to use. The only problem I have is remembering occasionally what's behind door number 1
 

Ross/Kzoo

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Oct 22, 2013
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Location
Richland Mi.
I,too, am not a fan of pegboard especially for large items. I took some 1 1/2" and 2" plastic pipe and cut them in 4-6" lengths at a 45 degree angle drilled small holes in exposed areas and screwed that to the walls. If it was tall item like a rake I cut a slot along the front so that the rake handle could squeeze in there with a friction fit.
 

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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Forgot to grab a picture, but ripped the old workbench out, almost afraid to burn the wood because of how soaked it is in unknown garage fluids.

Two questions for everyone:

Having troubles finding information on leveling concrete before applying an epoxy coat flooring, particularly on the garage door site it's cracked at the corner, any attempt to level this will likely pour out the door. Any pointers guys?

Anyone know how heavy this thing will be once packed full of tools?
17192.HTC404-HMT406_4.jpg

--> Not sure if I should load it up, depends on whether anyone knows if I'll be able to move it..
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Hey Everyone,

Hope your holidays were awesome. I fortunately found time rip out the old workbench, finish patching all those massive holes in the walls, and began the painting process!

Attached are images of the Patch, Pooch, and Paint.
--> It's always good to have a helping Paw.

Patch:
WwAAh2j.jpg


Patch:
60gZc3j.jpg


Patch:
aa8kGvU.jpg


Pooch:
AnwKN6e.jpg


Paint:
Yma5eh5.jpg


Paint:
UxNdZ6d.jpg


Paint:
fMLehKC.jpg




Now that I have a blank Canvas, I'm trying to figure out what paint scheme to go with. I'm hoping to see what you are rocking in your shop!

Upload a pic, lets get the ideas flowing! :thumbup:
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Hello journal, (and anyone who's interested!)

More baby steps, one weekend at a time.

In order to keep productive, I've enlisted the help of my brother, so should progress quicker moving forward!

Finally finished painting the walls, pulling the tape off to reveal that red line was the most motivating, satisfying thing I've done in weeks. Have some great momentum to move forward with!

Also learned the amazing painters trick of painting over tape with the same colour you're covering with tape. The paint bleeds and seals, but it's the same colour, and doesn't matter. Peels to reveal perfect lines.

Red undercoat (panorama):


Tape + Paint Trick:


Painted over tape:


Seriously, Best thing ever:




Looking Mighty Fine, If I Do Say So Myself:
 

ArcNerd

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Jun 1, 2013
Messages
3
What colour is grey did you use to paint the bottom half of the wall? I've been looking for a good grey for my garage and I like the look of this one.
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
Messages
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Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
What colour is grey did you use to paint the bottom half of the wall?
---> I feel like it was sold as "gunmetal grey" which coincidentally sounded more awesome then "drizzling mist valspar" which was the other close competitor.

First of all, What the heck are these things? Can I cut them off?
1kxPfzNl.jpg

---> On one end of the garage they're floating 1/4" off the ground, but are always sticking out of the floor/wall corner... (I think my garage is sinking..?)

Update on progress:
Some time passed while working inside the home first (happy wife..)

Hung painted and hung some shelves, and emptied the floor of all my stuff:
T6jq8p0l.jpg

---> Look at that ugly floor. Have to do something about that.

HD gave me a huge runaround with the wrong concrete grinding tool, but finally got the right one and finished wet grinding the concrete. There was ~435 layers of old coatings, spills, and other stuck on ****.
Yp1yPgLl.jpg


Took ~14 hours to finally get down to bare concrete:
5mJVBkTl.jpg


Currently waiting for it to dry before patching those cracks with epoxy crack fix.


While washing I confirmed that both garage door side corners are low spots where water pools.

Bought epoxy now, but can't apply this week because it's too damn cold!
 
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Ross/Kzoo

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Oct 22, 2013
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Location
Richland Mi.
Those are the tabs that hold the forms to poured walls at a preset thickness. They are usually broken off if they are in the way of something otherwise just left in place.
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
Messages
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Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Too damn cold is right!! Way to early for this ****. Hopefully you will get a nice window to do the floor.

Agreed, It's still summer and snowing? Damn weather.


Anyone know much about using a furnace to heat concrete in the event I don't get a good window for epoxy application? I cranked the heat to 35 to dry the floor (works well actually) but am worried about the open flame and epoxy floor. Looking for tips. :beer:

Great work so far!! I suggest you look into "slatwall" it is much better than peg board in my opinion.
Thanks! I did end up moving away from pegboard during planning. After all that painting I don't really want to cover the walls at all! haha
 

GSEninja

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Oct 17, 2013
Messages
95
What kind of pad did you use on the "buffer"? Your results are amazing
 
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jwest7788

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Calgary, AB, Canada
What kind of pad did you use on the "buffer"? Your results are amazing

Actually that is where most of my learning occurred in this leg of the journey, TL;DR first, then the story below.

TL;DR: Homedepot, diamabrush coating removal tool (wet grind) + Pressure washer.
1392786825-16368-19.jpg




Long version of the same, Full story:
I work in an office, so I needed advice from Homedepot about what to use to scrape this stuff up. First, they gave me the "buffer" (they call it a surface prep tool) and this head:
Diama%20prep%20plus.JPG


I took it home, and used it dry grind for two hours. The dust was awful, required full respirator, sealed eye protection, and the noise was terribly loud. I was fully suited and making zero progress. After a hour in a single square meter it looked like this:
WPOXlYNl.jpg


Another hour passed, I called HD all pissed off, and went in ahead of time. Had to really fight to get a refund (the girl at the desk really helped ward off her manager in this regard. Thanks HD girl!)

Went home, did some reading for alternative methods of removing (what I assumed to be old epoxy) paint from concrete. Ended up dropping another $100 on a stripper which worked awesomely, but used $66 worth of it (8L) and only stripped 10% of the garage. The same corner I spent forever grinding, and it still wasnt coming off completely.

Extrapolating, I didn't have another $1000 for stripper, and went to bed feeling really defeated. My wife dragged my depressed *** out of bed Sat. After researching, I came across this video:
--> It shows that the kids and HD gave me the wrong head, which is why it wasnt working.

Further research showed that these tools are meant to be used wet, which not only solved the dust issue, but actually did the job I rented the thing for.

Also, a pressure washer. Start with a pressure washer, mines a ****** $300 one and it was an amazing help, peeling off coatings that I couldn't get off with a dedicated scraper tool then wet grind it.

I found it worked best to switch back and fourth between wet grinding and pressure washing. (I was actually dual wielding the grinder in my left hand, pressure washer wand in my right.)

(Pro tip: if you get that same grinder, lock the handle at 45 degrees, then lift the handle to go left, push down to go right. I know that won't make much sense to anyone who hasn't used one of these, but learning that trick made this tool go from a bucking bronco, to something I could dual wield easily)










You couldn't pay me to do that again, my whole body is sore from fighting that dang grinder for the first half of Saturday.
:Twitch:
 

horizontallyopposed

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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
You couldn't pay me to do that again, my whole body is sore from fighting that dang grinder for the first half of Saturday.
:Twitch:
OK, I won't pay you then. When can you be over? :p

What epoxy are you going to use to seal up the cracks? I have some I need to get around to fixing. Are you going to fix the low spots with some levelling material? I have a low spot, just in front of the middle of the main door - so I guess it's more of an issue that there's a high spot right under the door. I wonder if I could grind it down? Sounds like work.

If you get into the concrete stuff and HD is no help (big surprise), Northland Construction (Northland Concrete) in the NE of 32nd Ave are good guys - they are for pro contractors, but they well retail too and have helped me when I had questions.

Cheers,
Keith
 

Bogey won

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I screwed a pallet racket to the studs and put a dozen Harley front forks in the pallet, the i screwed a pallet rack to the fence and put my outside tools in the rack, weather may be hard on the tools, but their handy and outta the way, like the shop keep working it will all be done someday, so they say. Best to the great white north from the balmy prairies of Texas
 
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jwest7788

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Nov 23, 2013
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Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Northland Construction (Northland Concrete) in the NE of 32nd Ave are good guys - they are for pro contractors, but they well retail too and have helped me when I had questions.

Thanks for the tip Keith, I'll have to check them out!


What epoxy are you going to use to seal up the cracks? I have some I need to get around to fixing. Are you going to fix the low spots with some levelling material? I have a low spot, just in front of the middle of the main door - so I guess it's more of an issue that there's a high spot right under the door. I wonder if I could grind it down? Sounds like work.

To seal the cracks, and cover spalling concrete areas, I've been using:
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0008JHBD2/?tag=atomicindus04-20

It's kind of expensive for the amount you get, but it works amazingly well.
On that Note, See: (Cracks all patched up!)
3ICnznul.jpg


Also See: (Concrete Spalling all covered with the same)
PT6vmLkl.jpg




I've been really apprehensive to fill the low spots, because I am afraid the leveling compound will compremise the integrity of the epoxy coating in that area over time. Instead, I used a caulking tool and leftover crack fill to fill in the corner areas. I plan to paint the epoxy floor coating up the wall to ensure it's water tight in these low spot corners.
(sorry, don't have a good photo) See:
Ptka2vvl.png


I would recommend against using the floor grinder to try and grind down a high spot. Though possible, it would take forever. If the low spots are really bad (unlike just my corners) I would definitely consider leveling concrete etc.

Anyways, Have to wash the floor and wait for it to dry again (days) but should be putting the first floor coating down Sunday Afternoon!
:bounce:
 
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