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Cutting my 36'' x 108'' in two to make some space

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NASTYZEN

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My turn to make a fab table! Well,two actually.
I have limited space and a huge table I don't use much. I make all my big stuff on my I beam table.
I want to cut the one I already have in two and make two nice precision rolling fab tables. One for each of my shops.
This table doubles as a structure to hold my mandrel bender. I guess I will have to make some thing to put the bender back in function after I'm done with the tables.





Thanks Ryan and others for your ideas! :thumbup:I will mix many ideas into these.
Some inspiration and general dimensions first.



Off comes the bender. I will be incorporating the Beach toolbox in the background into one table.

[

and 2 of these in the other one. Less stuff on the floor.



Table tops will be 36 1/4'' x 54 1/8'' x 3/4'' Thick. Adjustable for flatness.
Table height 40 1/2''
 
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zkling

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I' looking forward to see this build, especially how you will incorporate the boxes into the table. Do you still have your gigantic t-slot fixturing table?
 
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bullnerd

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When you get a chance can you take a pic inside that bender? Is that a rack and pinion in there? I had an idea to build a light duty bender using a rack and pinion from an old arbor press. One pic from the side would be great.

Thats a cool bench!
 
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sberry

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This is a good idea. There are more times than not for a general fabricator where a big bench seemed like a better idea than it was. One thing is knock the basics around and get it in to service before building every detail you can imagine on it. I love my 2 bench setup, simple common bench for the main and one for vise and attachments, it doesn't have to be real big, enough to collect a little clutter and set a few tools on as you go.

If I could help it wouldn't bother with roller, find where it sits and bolt to floor if not heavy enough to stay put. If I got to move would rig a couple blocks on hand jack or forklift. I can see it needs wheels now, its big, you will gain a huge amount of room once its split. I could think about 60 inches for one just to use it for estimation.

A feature I was considering was some scribed lines, could reduce a ton of tape measure and square work.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Richard D said:
Damn I'd think twice. Maybe sell/trade that to someone who needs a long table? I'd kill for it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know, what a shame! This table was built for the Jim Russel Racing school in Mt-Tremblant. They built all there Basi 2 liter Formula fords on it...

bullnerd said:
When you get a chance can you take a pic inside that bender? Is that a rack and pinion in there? I had an idea to build a light duty bender using a rack and pinion from an old arbor press. One pic from the side would be great.

Thats a cool bench!
Click to expand...


Here you go.
Rack and pinion courtesy of a road grader.

gl7o.jpg


sberry said:
This is a good idea. There are more times than not for a general fabricator where a big bench seemed like a better idea than it was. One thing is knock the basics around and get it in to service before building every detail you can imagine on it. I love my 2 bench setup, simple common bench for the main and one for vise and attachments, it doesn't have to be real big, enough to collect a little clutter and set a few tools on as you go.

If I could help it wouldn't bother with roller, find where it sits and bolt to floor if not heavy enough to stay put. If I got to move would rig a couple blocks on hand jack or forklift. I can see it needs wheels now, its big, you will gain a huge amount of room once its split. I could think about 60 inches for one just to use it for estimation.

A feature I was considering was some scribed lines, could reduce a ton of tape measure and square work.
Click to expand...

I plan on having a 6 inch grid on them with a 1/2-13 threaded hole at every intersection for clamping stuff with my mills dog clamps.
I don't have the luxury of bolting things to my floor. I work on such varied projects that the shop has to remain modular because of the size constraints.
Front shop 20' x 40' back shop 20' x 30'
 
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larry_g

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Looking from the outside in may I suggest before cutting it in two spend a bit of time figuring an easy way to put it back together if you need a longer table in the future. maybe weld a couple of L brackets on the bottom, each side of the cut. Ream a hole between the two opposing brackets to insert an alignment pin to align on reassembly. Another set of holes to allow a bolt/nut to pull back together.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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NASTYZEN

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bullnerd said:
Very cool, thanks.

I'm guessing you built it?
Click to expand...

Home built and kinda Rube Goldbergish.:D

larry_g said:
Looking from the outside in may I suggest before cutting it in two spend a bit of time figuring an easy way to put it back together if you need a longer table in the future. maybe weld a couple of L brackets on the bottom, each side of the cut. Ream a hole between the two opposing brackets to insert an alignment pin to align on reassembly. Another set of holes to allow a bolt/nut to pull back together.

lg
no neat sig line
Click to expand...

I hear ya. But I'm gonna cut it anyway. Haven't built anything much on it in 20 years. I'll take the chance..

Here's how far I got so far.

czmd.jpg


I put an 8deg. point on the foot leveling bolt head. Mainly to get rid of the raised lettering.

6do1.jpg


That's it t'ill next year folks.

HAPPY NEW YEAR.:spit::beer:
 
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sberry

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I knew it was modest and know what something not used for 20 yrs looks like and that's why its a good move. Downsizing the bench will be like an addition. I know our work is slightly different but I am getting leaner and more generalized, really less fabrication and more maintenance, all our stuff is like a pit stop or one off and last big steel work other than scrap was 7 20 ft trailers and we built a few pieces on the bench but the floor is good enough for that, as long as we were not off a notch on a jackstand is close enough.

As it stands it isn't that we couldn't but don't, you are the kind of guy all this makes sense for, its so rare I have to do anything accurate as a general, if I do need it square use a square and tape and twist it, so one off its not worth the effort to be "prepared".

Routinely building highly accurate assemblies like you do a different matter. I enjoy expressing the distinct difference in these with table design. Some of the great ideas for you are about useless to me or I would drill the one off as needed.
In your case its an assembly stand probably, not knocking off rust and dirt and all part prep in one and assembly 5%.

I like the idea of remodel or conversion. The top is already finished and the outlay for parts is low, mostly from existing stock.
 
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NASTYZEN

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After looking at this set up for a while. I'm not liking how I loose access to the side of the table.
I was thinking of being able to access from all around it.
I think I may lose the jack and cross tube for it like the picture below and replacing it with a 1.0'' threaded rod and nut for leverage. It only needs to go up and down an inch max I would think.

gvpm.jpg


Any one have a better method?
 
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nutjob

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sberry

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I didn't know if you had a pallet jack, another scheme we used was 2 wheels on one end and move the other with a floor jack. On a heavy table it worked pretty well.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Thanks for the link Nutjob. I would like to be able to lift the two castors at one end at the same time. The ones in the link would have to be lifted individualy. But they look cool.
Sberry, I have a 4000lbs fork lift, but don't have lots of space to manouver.
 
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NASTYZEN

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Got some time to play with the caster retractable system. Here's one end assembled. I used 1.0'' threaded rod in the center pre loaded with a spring to keep the wheel assembly up.This is as compact as I could make it.

Fully extended. Gets about 1 1/4'' travel.



Le close up.



Even capped off the tops to keep the grit out.

 
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EdT

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Nasty,
I have followed a lot of your threads and just wanted to thank you for taking the time to put them up. They are inspirational. Very envious of all the cool cars you have gotten to work on. WRT the retractable casters the only comment I would make is that they look narrow compared to the width of the table. Tippy? I have wrestled with the same problem for some time and have a sketchpad full of abandoned ideas so you're ahead of me; you actually have something tangible. One idea that I have kinda liked is to put casters on one end that sick out parallel to the long axis of the table or tool or whatever and just barely touch the ground. A socket on the other end that accepts a jack thing like they use for moving trailers around. When the jack end is lifted the casters on the far end touch and support the load while rolled to another location. I have a similar arrangement on some woodworking tools that, while heavy, are light enough for me to be the jack. I guess it depends a lot on how often you need to move stuff. Can't wait to se how the current plan works out.
Ed T
 
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NASTYZEN

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EdT said:
Nasty,
I have followed a lot of your threads and just wanted to thank you for taking the time to put them up. They are inspirational. Very envious of all the cool cars you have gotten to work on. WRT the retractable casters the only comment I would make is that they look narrow compared to the width of the table. Tippy? I have wrestled with the same problem for some time and have a sketchpad full of abandoned ideas so you're ahead of me; you actually have something tangible. One idea that I have kinda liked is to put casters on one end that sick out parallel to the long axis of the table or tool or whatever and just barely touch the ground. A socket on the other end that accepts a jack thing like they use for moving trailers around. When the jack end is lifted the casters on the far end touch and support the load while rolled to another location. I have a similar arrangement on some woodworking tools that, while heavy, are light enough for me to be the jack. I guess it depends a lot on how often you need to move stuff. Can't wait to se how the current plan works out.
Ed T
Click to expand...

Thanks for the words EdT, thats why I do it. If the stuff I love doing can inspire people to go out in the garage and do something instead of watching tv. Then I am happy.:)
On the other hand I take by getting tips and tricks from other members on here. I am going to incorporate many things that I have seen on others tables here, in mine.
As for it being tippy, yes I see it...The top will be 3/4'' but it will also have heavy full toolboxes under it. So I'm hopping it will compensate..:headscrat
Also, the lifting device wont lift the table more than an inch and it will always be on a concrete floor. If I ever need to move it much more then I'll use the fork lift.
Having castors off the end is good for lighter things. I have that set up on my slip roll. It wouldn't be practical on a fab table unless I was Hugo Gerrard.
 
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NASTYZEN

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As the hours turn into days..

Using transfer punch to transfer hole location from template.



The iron worker made short work of holes in all the plates.

7/8 hole in a 5/8 plate. ARRRGH!!



Trimming on the notcher end.



Darn safety pedal wont fit my boot.:lol:



After cutting all the tubing. I hole sawed all the holes needed as well and finished the square ones with the mill.



Now removing the interior weld with my zip gun so I can insert a reducer tube. I did this for all the recever tubes gives them a nice thick wall for drilling and tapping.



Inserting.

.

Everything deburred and ready to assemble, Finally!!



:beer:
 
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BBC71Nova

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Great idea. I have been planning my own table and the side access was the biggest drawback of the other version as you mentioned. I like this approach much better.

Where did you source the springs and can we get specs on them? Is that just standard threaded rod or some of the "precision", high strength stuff?

Thanks!
 
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NASTYZEN

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I picked up the springs from the local bearing supplier. I was just looking at the
packaging and its made in America!? Isn't everything from China nowadays?
www.centurysprig.com
They are 1 1/8'' OD x 3.0'' Long x 0.148'' wire dia. The I.D. is just a little over 1.0'' that's why I chose it.
Why can't we make friggin springs here in Canada, we can make the Canadarm, satellites, airplanes ....but we have to get our springs from L.A.:dunno:

The threaded rod is standard,maybe should of went for the zinc plated.

I really wish I had one of those ironworkers.

It is a sweet machine indeed, so versatile. I even bypass into it to power my mandrel bender
 
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NASTYZEN

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Got further along this weekend. The real time killer is in the prep of all the parts.

Tig welded all the inserts. Drilled and tapped all the receivers to 7/16-14



I always make the ends first for stuff like this, it makes it much easier to assemble. Note the use of a reverse clamp to reduce welding warpage. After tacking I applied preload then final welded.
I start by making the whole assembly square with a square then make one tack on each corner. After that I measure in an x pattern until I get the same measure on both sides. Final tack and weld.



Once I had the ends, it was easy to assemble on its back using the same square-measure technique.



I use my shop parallel jig to align all the cross tubes and receivers. I use this tool on roll bars mostly.



The beast rolls!! Pretty stable and is easy to move, so far...:thumbup:




:beer:
 
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NASTYZEN

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Moving along..The head fit just fine, but not the base...a little trimming was needed.





Re welded it all up again to keep the dust out.



I was able to keep all the drawers.:thumbup: I'm actually going to gain one by taking out the fold out front door. Anyone know where I can get beech tracks? I can make the drawer.



I have a metal cabinet that just might fit behind the old base. I could keep all the tooling with hitches on them. I have plans for some welding rod tubes. I have to see what I can find locally and design from there.



Now I can start table no. 2

:beer:
 
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NASTYZEN

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sunsation288 said:
Wow !!! awesome , thanks for sharing your project !!
Click to expand...

Thanks sunsation288, I enjoyed watching your build.


Meanwhile, as the days drag into weeks.. Got lots more done.

I offset the floor leveling bolts on the legs to gain better access once on the floor.



Detail of the thru square hole to accept 1 1/2'' tubing for the hitch.



I used different sized tubing for this one, recycling bits I had in the shop.
Recycling is good.:)
Last project built on the big table. It's like saying goodbye to an old friend.:sad:



Underside detail.



Le fat weld.



This time I used the chain block to get it off the table..



Now it's modular.:thumbup:





I guess next I'll be cutting a table top in two. But first, I really need to get some work done around here before I go bankrupt.

:beer:
 
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BBC71Nova

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Those turned out great. When are you gonna start on mine? hehe

Is the left one built with 4"X4" legs and then 2"X4" perimeter?

Then the one on the right is 3" X 3" and then 2" X 2" perimeter?

I'm getting ready to order up the stock for my 30" X 50" table and was thinking of going 3" X 3" X 3/16" legs and perimeter up top. Then for the bottom perimeter stepping down to 1/8" wall of the same. Hopefully that will work out.
 
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