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Finished restoring my Stanley Bedrock #607 *Pic heavy!

afx

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
65
Location
Houston Tx
I debated on making a thread and updating it but I thought it would be better to just let it all out at once since it took me so long to finish.

To start, I bought an old Stanley Bedrock off craigslist for $40 HERE

Pictures of the plane he emailed to me before I bought it.

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It was in rough shape to say the least, but it looked structurally solid. First thing I needed to do was get rid of the rust. I bought a bottle of EVAPORUST from Harbor Freight for like $8 and that was one of the best purchases I could have made. Since the plane is nearly 2 feet long, I didn't have anything I could soak it in so I just used one of those vacuum food saver bags.

More detailed photos before the rust removal.
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The bag set up
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Next was getting the Japanning off. That was easy since I have a sandblaster. I just gave it a once over and went straight to priming. I used an engine primer. I've read that people who do this more than I do think highly of the engine primer and high heat engine paint VS Japanning. I skipped photos of me painting it. Actually, I forgot heh.

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Then came the fun part. While the 8 coats of engine paint were curing, I made a new tote and handle since the old ones were broken. When I made the handle, I wanted to make it a bit thicker than normal since I have sausage fingers. I also wanted to give it a grip because of the way my hand tends to rest on hand planes (my pinky is usually hanging off the side) I cut both the tote and handle out of Bocote because it's so rigid and finishes up super nice. Funny thing was I cut them both off of a large blank of wood and the color turned out so different.

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This photo is what I used to make the grip, I used a hand file and stuck my turning sandpaper to it. It worked perfectly.
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I also made the handle a little thicker. MUCH more comfortable
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A

afx

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
65
Location
Houston Tx
I finished up to this point about a month ago, I spent the last month (when I had time) tuning it and making it flat, great thing was that it didn't require much in the flattening department. I took each individual screw and polished it clean. I spent a good amount of time getting the sides and bottom polished up, I even cleaned out the corrugated valleys on the bottom.

I decided to keep the original blade,chip breaker but I might move to an IBC or HOCK kit later on. I sharpened the blade on my TORMEK and it cuts beautifully. I might just keep it as is.

Final Product
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THANKS FOR LOOKING!
 
OP
A

afx

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
65
Location
Houston Tx
All those pics, and not one shaving?!?

I know! My bench is currently being refurbished and I literally don't have anywhere to clamp a work piece down! I was thinking of half-assing it and just butting a piece up to the wall but getting a good picture of that would be difficult. I'll get one soon I promise.
 
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Bryan Burns

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Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Messages
1,243
Location
Grayslake, Illinois
Had to look up bocote as I don't recall ever seeing the word in print. Now I want some.

Good job and thanks for taking the time to document and share.
 

Highlux

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Joined
Dec 5, 2013
Messages
298
Location
Ofallon, MO.
I used to be a plane nut....no pun intended. I had lots of them. I know the purists are groaning right now. Removing the Japaning on a Bedrock grove bottom...OMG.

But really...if it is going to be a working plane...Im all for it.

I love that plane. Must not get drawn back in.....must not.
 

oleblu

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2006
Messages
128
oldwizzard...japanning is the thick, black original finish used on these planes. You can look up japanning and find how it can be reproduced. Myself, several coats of gloss black enamel is good enough. :thumbup:

afx....nice job!
 
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