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added a 26x28 garage onto the house

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twenty8tudor

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Aug 1, 2012
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been reading a lot of post on here when i decided to put on an addition to my house. its a 26'x28' with 12' ceiling.
Had a fellow car guy that has a general contracting business do the structure
work and roofing. he is to come back in the spring to do the siding. Also had a buddy help pour the floor.

The inside work I did myself. never doing any major construction before it was a big learning experience. As far as specs are concerned..

i setup the heating system with a water heater in the basement and run the feed and return the 2" conduit with pipe insulation around the pex under an existing room in the house.

insulated the footer and floor along with a plastic vapor barrier. walls are 2x6 studding with a vapor barrier also.

Tried my hand at installing the garage door which is an 18x10 commercial door. Few trial and errors on that part but got the bugs worked out and its operating very well.

i did all the tin work in the inside which was not as hard as i thought it would be. T5 lighting and a 65amp feed from the 200amp box in the basement.

Time to build from start to finish was aboue 2.5months. still have to put a sealer on the floor but heat is on and i can tinker in there as i finish up little things. I will probably be on the board if i run into something i cant figure out.

Thanks for all the info posted on the board!!


started out with this rotten overhang on the house


footers dug and block laid


walls going up


walls closed in and roof on


bringing the insulation home


insulation down and tubing laid


wall up to straighten old crooked brick and block wall


ceiling up


white of the walls started


blue section installed


garage door installed


end wall closed in


tv up, other end wall closed in, new walkin door and garage door frame straightened out


finished till it gets warmer to do the siding

hope ya like it.
 
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rinker1

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Aug 30, 2008
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Good lookin garage, wished I would have put a heated floor in mine. Looks like good old Ohio weather!!
 
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M-technik-3

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Western Mass
Nothing like fresh space. So shop tools go into the basement and cars now live in garage?

Looks like the Garage double the effective size of the house, attic have any sort of storage space or room?
 
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Jeffksf

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Jul 24, 2007
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Cleveland Ohio
What did you use for that metal walls and ceiling? How did it compare in cost to other materials? Looks like a great work space.
Whats the plan for the old "garage" turn it into living space maybe?
 
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twenty8tudor

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M-technik-3 said:
Nothing like fresh space. So shop tools go into the basement and cars now live in garage?

Looks like the Garage double the effective size of the house, attic have any sort of storage space or room?
Click to expand...
going to try to put the boxes and tools along the wall and see how much space i still have left. going to try and get a building put back up at my dads place(about 1/8th mile away) that was knocked down by a tree. It will be ruffly 40x60 so thats where alot of the major fab work will be done. this will be just for building my old cars. i have the attic closed off on the addition but i have storage in the attic on the house.

Jeffksf said:
What did you use for that metal walls and ceiling? How did it compare in cost to other materials? Looks like a great work space.
Whats the plan for the old "garage" turn it into living space maybe?
Click to expand...

I got all the material from a place called stoney point metals. worked out great being 20mins away from home and as long as i called by around 1pm they would have it done by next day. material is just rolled tin like you see on peoples roofs and pole buildings. as far as cost its around 1.60 a foot. panels are about 37" wide. i would have to figure all of it up ruff guessing i have about 1300-1500 in all the inside metal(panels and trim pieces) but doing it myself i saved a quoted price of 1400 just for labor, and i had to provide the tin. old garage is going to be used to store the 48 f1 i have now old cars that i get done and have at the time.
 
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RbrtAWhyt

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North East Georgia
twenty8tudor said:
I got all the material from a place called stoney point metals. worked out great being 20mins away from home and as long as i called by around 1pm they would have it done by next day. material is just rolled tin like you see on peoples roofs and pole buildings. as far as cost its around 1.60 a foot. panels are about 37" wide. i would have to figure all of it up ruff guessing i have about 1300-1500 in all the inside metal(panels and trim pieces) but doing it myself i saved a quoted price of 1400 just for labor, and i had to provide the tin. old garage is going to be used to store the 48 f1 i have now old cars that i get done and have at the time.
Click to expand...

Can you post a close up pic of the seam between the colors? Thanks!
 
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twenty8tudor

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RbrtAWhyt said:
Can you post a close up pic of the seam between the colors? Thanks!
Click to expand...

sure can. it is what they call a Z channel. the long flange part of it is up behind the white and i just attached it to the furring strips with a row of white screws at the bottom of the white to match the rest of the screws.







i also put a picture of what i put at the bottom which is what they call rat guard. attached it same way as above. temped it with a few tacks to the furring strip then attached with the blue screws that hold the bottom of the panel. spaced it up off the floor about 1/2" to 1/4" to make a level line and keep it up out of the water.



 
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nsnrider

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any insulation in the walls?

how thick is the concrete?

are you going to install a lift?

I don't see too many outlets, what is your plan regarding 110 volt and 220 volt outlets?
 
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Filson

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If you don't mind me asking - what was the extra cost (rough ballpark) of having a heated floor added? Looking great man!
 
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twenty8tudor

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nsnrider said:
any insulation in the walls?

how thick is the concrete?

are you going to install a lift?

I don't see too many outlets, what is your plan regarding 110 volt and 220 volt outlets?
Click to expand...

nsnrider said:
any insulation in the walls?

how thick is the concrete?

are you going to install a lift?

I don't see too many outlets, what is your plan regarding 110 volt and 220 volt outlets?
Click to expand...

yeah its 2x6 walls that have rolled in insulation. had fair sized local company do it. cost me 1300 to buy the insulation from lowes...or pay them 1000 to provide the insulation and install it...so i went ahead and had them do it. R19 in the walls and R38 blown in the ceiling.

concrete is ruffly 4" think at the least there are some spots its around 4.5-5"

looking to do a little 4 post after i get everything completed and paid down.

put a 65amp service through the house from the 200amp panel in the basement, probably have 4-5 drops of 110 outlets on each and a 220v over in the one corner where i am going to be putting a birdgeport mill i picked up a while back
 
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twenty8tudor

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Filson said:
If you don't mind me asking - what was the extra cost (rough ballpark) of having a heated floor added? Looking great man!
Click to expand...

i did all the plumbing for the water heater, circulating pump, header, and laid the tubing my self to save money... which a little research its very easy to setup and do yourself. to break it down i had

$1257.00 in 1000' roll of pex 1.5" blue board insulation, vapor barrier, and support wire. zip ties were "borrowed" from work

$825 in water heater, circulation pump, and misc plumbing fittings

$273 in heating headers, valves and i went ahead and bought a tool to crimp the 1/2" clamps for pex($90)

and about another 100 for shark bite fittings to go from pex to copper and other misc plumbing parts

ruffly about $2500 altogether which covered about 750 square feet

if i recall a buddy had his building done buy a local guy trying to save money in his building (35x55= 1925 sqft) cost him about 8k i believe and that didnt include the two water heaters he put in
 
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twenty8tudor

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taumac said:
That's awesome.... You keeping od garage as work space?

The 5 Stitches Garage part 1 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142100

The 5 Stitches Garage part2 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211899
Click to expand...


yeah i think i am going to keep the little clausing 10x36 lathe and store one of my old trucks in there and misc tool storage.... going to put an non insulated door on there to keep the dust out of the house..

Thanks for the compliments!!!
 
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RbrtAWhyt

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North East Georgia
twenty8tudor said:
sure can. it is what they call a Z channel. the long flange part of it is up behind the white and i just attached it to the furring strips with a row of white screws at the bottom of the white to match the rest of the screws.







i also put a picture of what i put at the bottom which is what they call rat guard. attached it same way as above. temped it with a few tacks to the furring strip then attached with the blue screws that hold the bottom of the panel. spaced it up off the floor about 1/2" to 1/4" to make a level line and keep it up out of the water.



Click to expand...

That's very nice and it answers some of the question I have. Thank you for taking the time take the photos, post them, provide an excellent explanation, and send me a PM on top. Thank you very much!

:beer:
 
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twenty8tudor

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Was able to get the floor sealed up Monday after work. Used legacy industrial hd-6600. Started at about 7pm got the first coat finished about 8:30 took a nap till about 1am and put the second coat on. used an 18" 3/8 nap roller to apply. which leaves a little texture to the sealer but maybe that will help give a little traction when it gets wet.


before


after


after
 
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bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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Jersey
Very nice! I really like the look of the floor sealer and will be doing the same to mine.

I also am doing the metal ceiling and walls.

How did you do the trim around the overhead doors? I really wish I'd trimed it with aluminum BEFORE they installed the doors, but I didnt know what I was doing and was kinda rushed by the builder.

Could you take a pic (tired of hearing that yet?) of the track/jam area of your doors?

Nice job BTW.
 
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MSD Shop

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Dec 13, 2012
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Bend , OR.
I am very torn on sealing my floor like this or doing a gray epoxy. This is for sure a better deal $ wise. Love the look you got with yours. Also love the two tone metal, very nice ! :beer:
 
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twenty8tudor

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bullnerd said:
Could you take a pic (tired of hearing that yet?) of the track/jam area of your doors?

Nice job BTW.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliments everyone! :beer:

here is how we did the trim around the doors. put a 2x4 flat to trim around all the doors to build it out so it would be close to flush to the J channel. after that there is a local guy that does aluminum siding and has a 10ft tin brake to do fascia boards. all the caps on the doors are basically just tin bent in a C to slip into the door jam and the other side to slip behind the J channel.


exposed 2x4s that we used to build the door way out


little closer


capped


Garage door is basically the same. i just went ahead and filled the top portion of garage door with 2x10s so i could put the springs anywhere i wanted them. The cap for the top is done it two 9' pieces being an 18' door.


side


top



only thing bad about having them capped is that when you put the hardware for the door on better make sure your holes are right so you done have to punch a bunch of holes in it. luckily the only few holes we messed up on was able to be covered by a bracket.

hope this helps ya out
 
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bullnerd

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Very nice. Thanks for taking the time to post the pics.

Thats exactly how I thought it was done. I really wish I did the trim first (aluminum). But I was so excited about the new building I completely forgot about it. I even have my own brake! Hopefully I can slip the sheet metal behind the tracks without moving them and just reinstall the screws in the same holes.
 
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Schwinn68

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Oct 19, 2012
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Location
Illinois
Love the look of the metal ceiling and walls. I think I just decided that's how I want my next garage finished.
 
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