I completed siding my shop a few months ago and thought I'd post some suggestions and tips from my installation. I hope the below is clear to understand.
I built a work table in order to measure and cut the siding to length. I used some 2x4 10' studs and some other framing scraps to frame the top and for the legs. I just happened to have a dozen or so pieces of 2x8s left over from framing the window and door headers. I placed these on top leaving gaps along the full top length and also in three areas front to back.
I've got a siding shear gun I bought off Craigslist several years ago for some siding repair work on our old house. The front to back gaps as well as the lengthwise gap allows me to lay the siding (face down for the cleanest cuts) and cut to length without any obstruction to the siding cutters. For the gable ends of the shop - I had to cut the ends of the siding at a 6/12 pitch to mate up to the soffit. The table surface allowed me to slightly offset the siding to overhang off the surface a little - or I would use one of the lengthwise gaps - to avoid interference with the siding shears.
Lastly - I bought a pair of Gecko Gauge clamps to use for placing the siding on the building. They are adjustable in terms of allowing different reveals for each course of siding. Additionally, they clamp on the underside of the previously hung course using a cam lock mechanism. To install the next piece of siding, you just have to lift the siding up over the top of the clamp and then rest them on the ledge of the clamp. These saved HOURS of work in terms of marking course placement, as well as maneuvering the siding itself. I bought them off Amazon ($60 or so) and they are worth every penny! They made working on extension ladders for the upper sections of the building possible.
I built a work table in order to measure and cut the siding to length. I used some 2x4 10' studs and some other framing scraps to frame the top and for the legs. I just happened to have a dozen or so pieces of 2x8s left over from framing the window and door headers. I placed these on top leaving gaps along the full top length and also in three areas front to back.
I've got a siding shear gun I bought off Craigslist several years ago for some siding repair work on our old house. The front to back gaps as well as the lengthwise gap allows me to lay the siding (face down for the cleanest cuts) and cut to length without any obstruction to the siding cutters. For the gable ends of the shop - I had to cut the ends of the siding at a 6/12 pitch to mate up to the soffit. The table surface allowed me to slightly offset the siding to overhang off the surface a little - or I would use one of the lengthwise gaps - to avoid interference with the siding shears.
Lastly - I bought a pair of Gecko Gauge clamps to use for placing the siding on the building. They are adjustable in terms of allowing different reveals for each course of siding. Additionally, they clamp on the underside of the previously hung course using a cam lock mechanism. To install the next piece of siding, you just have to lift the siding up over the top of the clamp and then rest them on the ledge of the clamp. These saved HOURS of work in terms of marking course placement, as well as maneuvering the siding itself. I bought them off Amazon ($60 or so) and they are worth every penny! They made working on extension ladders for the upper sections of the building possible.
