6500 wheeltronic lift scissor lift

6500 wheeltronic scissor lift.

I believe Snap On bought the company and rebadged theirs as EELR338A

http://www.doyletechnologies.com/documents/manuelsdepieces/lifts 2 poteaux/EELR338a.pdf

Downside is there is no access to underbody, but for suspension and axle work it looks like it would be beneficial.

Thanks

id be player at 4 or 500, you can get a new scissors lift in the 1500 range,

new scissors lift in Canada, when you factor in taxes and shipping your looking at a minimum of $2000

I might bite the bullet.

Would this be easy to load onto a u-haul trailer with fold down gate?

Thanks

I doubt it will be easy to load onto anything, i would bring a few prybars, 2x4s and short pieces of one inch pipe so you can manhandle it more easily. wouldn't hurt to bring a strong friend or 2

Bought the exact same one (about) 3 months ago.
Was being used as a workbench!
Paid more than $600 for it.
Plus had to buy a new motor. Don't know how, but it worked at his garage.

This morning I checked out a few places for a truck with a lift gate. Every place had trucks over 20 feet and none are available until next week.

Cost of the truck round trip would run $265 + taxes, almost $300

Lift gates are strong enough to hold the weight, and the lift gate will accommodate the lift almost exactly. Problem is if I do get the lift onto the lift gate, it would be almost impossible to turn into the bed. I would have to make a very sharp 90 degree turn.

If I do rent a U-Haul trailer with the fold down gate I will try to roll it in, it will be a bit tough and time consuming.

Would it be easier to borrow an engine crane in case I cant roll it into the trailer and just lift it in, making the job a bit quicker.

Any problems with that idea?

Thanks

rmsg0040 said:

This morning I checked out a few places for a truck with a lift gate. Every place had trucks over 20 feet and none are available until next week.

Cost of the truck round trip would run $265 + taxes, almost $300

Lift gates are strong enough to hold the weight, and the lift gate will accommodate the lift almost exactly. Problem is if I do get the lift onto the lift gate, it would be almost impossible to turn into the bed. I would have to make a very sharp 90 degree turn.

If I do rent a U-Haul trailer with the fold down gate I will try to roll it in, it will be a bit tough and time consuming.

Would it be easier to borrow an engine crane in case I cant roll it into the trailer and just lift it in, making the job a bit quicker.

Any problems with that idea?

Thanks

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Rent a trailer. even a mid size car can pull one that will haul the lift.

I bought a similar one last fall and used a come along to get it into the trailer, took about an hour to winch it in because it would hang up on something and I'd have to get the big prybar out to release it so I could go on...... didn't help that it was 20* and blowing that day.

Unloading took about 2 min - I chained it to a work bench leg that's bolted to the floor and had the wife pull forward slowly - slid right off!

I you rent a trailer with a ramp you could also use a comealong to help pull the lift on

I unloaded mine from my truck by, pulling it past the tailgate about 3 feet into a tractor bucket. Ran a strap from the bucket around the 2 front corners of the lift and back.
Tilt the bucket up and back away from the truck bed. Of course this is moot if you don't have a tractor. It is pretty heavy but a couple people could ease it out of a truck bed.
One end first, the pull the truck away. IIRC it is a little shy of #1000.

I move mine with a 5x8 tilt deck trailer, used a come-a-long to pull it onto the trailer and my 6' prybar to help it when it hangs up. Unloaded pretty easy.

You can move it real easy with a pair of furniture dolly's, just slip them under the middle with the lift raised and then lower it down onto them, the legs will lift off the floor and you can spin it, or push in any direction you need. This is usually how I move mine in the garage, much easier than trying to maneuver it with the power unit

Question, if I use a come along, what's the best place to secure it to,

I am worried if I secure it to the trailer bar and start cranking its going to bend

I would run the cable up the front of the trailer and attach it to the tounge



right where the center tube comes to the bed of the trailer, if the trailer only has the two angled pieces wrap a chain or strap around them

I put mine in the back of a Volvo wagon by using a jack and then a hydraulic lift cart. When I got it home I used it to replace the rear shocks of said Volvo.

I went out today to grab some gear for hauling the lift. Ended spending some money on some straps, a come along, and 2 furniture dollies.

Couldn't find a trailer anywhere, called the guy and told him. He said to swing by to take a look at the lift. Swung by his place, looked at the lift, everything looked ok, but when you go to lower the lift, the lock doesn't disengage, you have to do it manually by pulling back the lock and let it lower. I told him it wasn't a big deal, I could fix it.

Hopefully during the week, he calls and we get it done. Once done I will be returning some of those moving tools

Today the guy delivered the lift for me, he was nice enough to fabricate some casters with long threaded rods, making this job very easy to do. He let me keep them in case I wanted to move the lift in the future.

Guy backed in with the trailer, used an electric winch to hold and release the load while I was guiding it down the ramp, placed it where I wanted and it was a done deal unloading it in under 2 minutes.

Used 2 floor jacks, one in the front and one in the rear to raise the lift. Unbolted the casters and slipped them out. I placed 2 furniture dollies under the lift, dropped the lift on the dollies, removed the 2 jacks, plugged the unit in and started to raise the lift, lift basically raised itself off the dollies,

Before purchasing the lift I went out and purchased some stuff like a come along, a few tow straps, couple D shackles, furniture dollies etc. just in case I need to get the lift home on my own, the guy was nice enough to help me, most of that stuff wasn't even needed and I ended up returning most of tools, except the furniture dollies and 1 D shackle

4 things I got to do to make it 100% fully functional or up to my standards

One of the hose connections was loose and leaking, going to fix that tomorrow (easy)

Going to change out the fluid, don't know how old the fluid is (easy)

Safety release pedal needs to be fixed, once the lift passes the lock, you lower the lift on the lock, in order to release the lock, you have to raise the lift an inch, then press the release pedal, right now the pedal doesn't release the lock all the way, but I can just use a screw and put it there to hold the lock all the way out and lower it. (snap on sells a repair kit)

When lowering the lift to the floor it make a somewhat loud bang, might have to do something to soften the drop, hockey pucks? It might just be my garage, everything seems louder than normal, even if I use an impact wrench it seems loud like hell. Didn't bang so hard in his garage. (easy)

@turbodave, thanks for the tip with the furniture dollies, it makes maneuvering the lift super easy

Overall I am happy and cant wait to put it to work.

Congrats, sounds like a good deal on a extremely useful piece of shop equipment.

chrismenke said:

I put mine in the back of a Volvo wagon by using a jack and then a hydraulic lift cart. When I got it home I used it to replace the rear shocks of said Volvo.

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Bravo sir, bravo.

rmsg0040 said:

Safety release pedal needs to be fixed,

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Had to fix mine also

(snap on sells a repair kit)

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Didn't know that,thanks.

When lowering the lift to the floor it make a somewhat loud bang

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Mine does the same thing, lowers fine until about the last inch or so, then BANG to the floor.

^^ If you look at the owner's manual for snap on EELR338A, there's safety assembly kit 0-0900, I am going to call SO and ask them

How did you fix the safety release pedal?

Seems like the BANG is normal, still want to do something about it though

IIRC on the front of the Wheeltronics 6500, one of the stickers says EELR338A

Thanks

zkling said:

Congrats, sounds like a good deal on a extremely useful piece of shop equipment.



Bravo sir, bravo.

Click to expand...

Thanks

The block on my release got "sprung up" for lack of a better description.
Repositioned it and it works fine.
Then only had to replace (install) an E clip for the pedal linkage.
Think I'm going to get a couple dollies as mentioned earlier, this thing is kind of a PITA to move w/ the power unit. Probably not as bad if I had a better floor.

does anyone know what the correct capacitor is for this lift? I bought one used and am having a heck of a time trying to get the right capacitor for the motor, Thanks.