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In Floor lighting question, how to "mount"

Disney

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OK, So I got my in ground LED lights the other day. The electrician looks at them and just scratches head. I admit... I have done some too. What i don't fully grasp is a great way to install them.

What my current plan looks like is to take some 6" PVC pipe and drive it into the ground so that it will be slightly below the surface of the concrete. Then take a piece of 1/2" (or thicker) plywood cut out to the same OD of the light "flange" and set that over the tube. Then the electrician can run wire into each tube, the concrete guy can pour the crete and finish to be flush with the plywood. I would then pull the cover off and just drop in the lights.

Anything wrong with this plan????

The body of the light is slightly tapered from 5.25 to 5.50". Overall height is about 3.5". "Flange" is the section from about 3" up to the top cover and is about 1/2".

Pic of the lights for reference....
 

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Stuart in MN

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What's the make and model number of the fixtures? If they didn't come with installation instructions, there may be information on the manufacturer's website.
 

Eriehunter

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Looks like they need an underground rated housing, does the manufacturer have one listed ? you may have overlooked when you ordered the fixture?
 
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Disney

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no instructions with any of the fixtures. I got them from the manufacturer. no mention of housings at all. The MFG website is very very basic. No information at all on there.
 

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Stuart in MN

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Post the brand name and model number, someone here may have had experience with it and/or know where to get more information.
 

Norcal

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I really see no code compliant way to use them in a concrete floor, doubt they have any listing from a nationally recognized testing lab, like UL, ETL, or others, either.
 
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Disney

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Oh Lord no... No UL listing. Code compliance isn't really my strong suit.

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RossABQ

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Are these going in your garage floor? or anywhere else water is involved?
 
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Disney

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Garage floor. Under the lift. They are sealed fwiw. It least the top side is....

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Disney

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And UL listing and water proofing is all fine and well, but I'm more concerned with how to mount them in the floor.

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kgc10

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Try these it's a Hubble concrete floor box you can get the at Home Depot. I had to use a 4" diamond blade on my grinder to enlarge the hole diameter and put a step in it to hold the light flush with the floor.

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JohnX14

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If the light fits in the 6" pvc, can you just place short lengths of PVC where the lights will be located and allow them to stick up above concrete while pouring? Then cut flush or even recessed after the concrete has set up. Similar to what kgc10 posted with the floor box. If the lights are not listed, it does not preclude you from using them, at least here in MA.
 

mr overdunne

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forgive my ignorance but why would you even want that? seems like it would be really prone to shadows no?
 
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Disney

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Yes. One light would create bad shadows. 8 of these bright *** electric suns will be much much better than no lights at all. Without any light shining up from below and only lights from above then I would be standing and working in one big shadow.

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Disney

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If the light fits in the 6" pvc, can you just place short lengths of PVC where the lights will be located and allow them to stick up above concrete while pouring? Then cut flush or even recessed after the concrete has set up. Similar to what kgc10 posted with the floor box. If the lights are not listed, it does not preclude you from using them, at least here in MA.

I think that is probably the best route. I talked to my concrete guy and he thinks he can recess that flange without any trouble.

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Disney

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Ok, to add closure to this thread for the one or two that cared.

I ended up mapping out where I wanted the lights and putting lengths of 6" PVC in place. Then the Electrician crudely routed conduit to one of the pipes. Then they added conduit to put them in series.



Then the concrete guys poured and locked it all in. No going back now!!



I cut the pipe off flush at first. I ended up using a cut off wheel to drop the PVC down 1/2" below the surface so that the flange of the lights would sit down into the hole.


Then i pulled some wire and dropped the lights in. I will go back and add some silicone caulk to seal them up.







Easy Peazy, Lemon Squeezy.
 
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C96

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Great job on the “MacGyver” work getting them in the floor. :thumbup: Looks cool and all…but seems they will be a pain working around since they don’t appear to be flush with the floor surface. I would think because of that it might be a bit awkward working around them. :headscrat

What happens when you drop a nut or something and you look down and there is 8 frickin flood lights blinding the hell out of you? :eek:

Just doest seem all that practical, but sure looks cool in your night photo, enjoy :beer:
 
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Disney

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You are WAY over thinking this. For one, they are 1/8" above the floor. How could that be hard to work around? And you can walk/drive/party on them, you don't have to "work around" them. When you drop a nut, you bend down and pick it up. It's not like staring into a lighthouse spot light. And any nut I drop isn't the size of all 8 lights, worst case it lands near one of the lights and I pick it up and don't stare at the light.

You're not the first to bring up those points. Usually that's everyone's first response. Like you spend all your time under a lift looking at the floor for some reason. It took me 1/2 second of looking into one the first minute they were installed to learn that if I just look off to the side of a light, I won't get spots. If you stare directly into one, from directly above one, it will give you spots for a few seconds.
 

kluckfab

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You are going to have to do an update thread on how this works out for you.
 
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Disney

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Why? I have found that I pretty much leave them on the whole time I'm in the shop. They use very little power and generate no heat.
 
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Disney

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I was brainstorming with a guy at work and I figure it can be done after the fact, but it will be a lot more involved. We may do his and if so i'll post up the how-to with results.
 
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Disney

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You are going to have to do an update thread on how this works out for you.

Here's my 3 month update.

They are an absolute game changer. I can't stress enough how nice it is to work under the car with these lights. Especially at night when there is no natural light, these make an enormous difference. Everyone that has seen them in person agrees. Game changer.

No problems rolling my oil funnel, transmission jack, or engine hoist over them. They don't seem to care. I drive over them, stand on them, and I have even dropped a nut on them without losing my eyesight.

The only.. ONLY trouble I have had with them is when I lower a car and begin working under hood is sometimes I will be working on something in line with one of the lights and it becomes a distraction. i can either change the angle that i'm looking at, or turn off the lights. Pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.

To summarize... you have to do this if you're planning on building a garage.

Some shots:



 
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RCPro87

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Disney, that is definitely a game changer. Too bad my concrete under my lift is 60 years old and I don't have the chance to do this.
 
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Disney

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Murfreesboro, TN
Yes. Those of you that already have a shop with no plans to move, you're pretty much SOL. You will have to make do with 2x4' fluorescent lights with cords and carts. This is more for those that are planning a new build or addition.
 

xyster101

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Haters on here. That is amazing and some forward thinking. It really turned out great. Most people on here don't have enough light in there garage as it is, this is wonderful. I have two drop lights for working on projects, they make all the difference. I'm jealous of all that light.
 
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Disney

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When I'm at work and don't have these, I hate life.

And yes, those that have seen them in person all agree they are amazing. Half on the internet hate on them and prefer to light matches and gas torches to see under a car.
 
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