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How to Mount Outdoor Lighting to ribbed Metal siding?

SI86

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
71
Location
Pennsylvania
Im in the process of mounting some exterior light fixtures on my pole building beside the man door and garage doors. Does anyone have any tips on how to mount the junction boxes on the inside for the fixtures? They all seem to fall inbetween the Perlins.


Pictures if you have them please
 
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wes73

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2013
Messages
218
Location
South Central PA
I know this is a post to an older thread, but thought I would share.

I have come up with a clean look with a minimal size hole needed for exterior lights on a pole building with steel sides.

Items needed: (1) Plastic Round Junction Box Wet Location, (1) 4” PVC Union, (1) ¾” plastic threaded adapter , about 6” of ¾” pvc conduit and clear caulk.

20141207_165550_zpsb1572a5d.jpg

20141207_171044_zpsf1114093.jpg

First thing is to cut the 4” PVC union. This will become the collar around the junction box. The trick is to cut it to a thickness of 1-1/2” while leaving the full stop in the center of the union. This stop fits snug around the outside of the junction box. I used my table saw to make the two cuts. The first was to cut the center to one side of the stop. The second cut was to then trim the remaining down to the 1 ½” size.

20141207_165650_zpse91faa39.jpg

20141207_165744_zps92b2b2ce.jpg

20141207_170658_zps1596cf6e.jpg

Next, cut the ears off of the Plastic Round Junction Box Wet Location. This will allow for a tighter fit. Now the junction box should have a nice fit inside the trimmed down pvc union.

Now locate where you want the lights. I have bridged the small ribs at various positions. I tried to place them with in 3” from them top of a purlin. I drilled a pilot hole from the inside. Then take a 1-1/2” hole saw and drill from the outside of the steel. It’s helpful to have someone on the inside holding a scrap piece of 2x4 to drill against. Ultimately you want to drill all the way through the 2x4, but this can be done ‘on the ground’ after you get through the steel.

At this point you should have a hole in your steel and a 2x4 with a hole as well. Now cut a piece of ¾” conduit to length. I think I cut mine to 3”. Glue this up to the ¾” plastic threaded adapter and thread into the back side of the junction box. Us the supplied plugs to close the 4 holes side hole on the junction box.

Apply a generous amount of clear caulk to the back of the junction box. I laid down about ¼” of caulk to the entire back except for the outermost ½” area. This will allow the caulk to spread out and not have any squeeze out. Now predrill two holes through the junction box, steel and 2x4 with the hole. Screw everything up. I added two short pieces of 2x4 vertically on the inside to attach the purlin to the 2x4 which the junction box is screwed into.

Slide the piece of PVC union on top of the junction box. Now when you attach a light fixture, it will tighten up against the junction box as well as the ‘collar’ and give a nice clean finish. I painted my collar with rustoleum krylon paint that closely matches my lights.

20141207_165928_zps0a6c823c.jpg

20141207_165831_zps4db1ca8b.jpg

20141207_165854_zps826726cc.jpg
 
Last edited:

kj_mustang

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
1,213
Location
Harrisonburg, VA
I nailed up a 2 x 6 vertical between two girts, drilled a hole through at the spot for my light,
then attached this to the outside metal and caulked around it.

IMG_20140622_124246590.jpg
 

lakeroadster

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
5,166
Location
Central Colorado
I know this is a post to an older thread, but thought I would share.

I have come up with a clean look with a minimal size hole needed for exterior lights on a pole building with steel sides. .........

20141207_165854_zps826726cc.jpg

Very nice job!
 

tommyboy1211

New member
Joined
Oct 26, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Foley, Minnesota
This is my first post in the forum, so please forgive me for the lack of knowledge on this. I have a newly constructed pole building that has the larger rib directly in the center of the building, right were the barn light would ideally need to go. It is not the smaller rib that has been posted previously. I am obsessed with measurements being symmetrical. Is there any reason why the methods shown in the previous posts can't be done on the larger rib? Am I locked in to having the barn light off set off the center? Any pictures, responses or any other information of what others have done with this similar condition would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!:)
 

schurtjl

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Oregon
Tommyboy,

I encountered the same issue with the large rib directly in the center of the building. I
wanted to mount my light directly in the center as well. I used a thick piece of cedar that I cut to the same thickness as the depth of the rib. I cut the cedar piece into two pieces and angled the one side to match the slope of the rib. Each piece sits on the opposite side of the rib, and the overall size of the two pieces and the rib were big enough for the base of the light to mount to. As my light was a heavy RAB outdoor LED light, I ran bolts that were long enough to sandwich the light base all the way through the cedar and through the wall sheathing. I used flexseal caulking as well. I don't have any pics readily available, and the light's about 28' off the ground.
 
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Windcatcher

New member
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Nova Scotia
Hi, Just reading through these. The best I have found so far is the Wes73 above and using fiberglass with a mold form that matches the lighting fixture. With the fiberglass or automotive body filler it was for a fixture that was not round. For a high ridge I wouId use the collar, scribe the ridge to the collar and cut it with a coping saw. Don't forget to take the roundness into consideration. It will of course be a bit higher but effective. That or remove the necessary section of rib. I have a three story home clad in metal and metal clad barns. The lights I have up already were in protected areas. I am know getting into the high wind and rain locations. I particularly like this solution for lights with round bases. I would use BUTYL SEALING TAPE AROUND THE FIXTURE. Same as you would for any other metal seam. The silicone is the final finish but is nowhere near as effective as the butyl tape for stopping water. On a side note, when I was having my electric meter attached to the house I was away. It fit between the two large ribs perfectly but how to solve the gaps to reduce water penetration - expanding weatherproof foam tape from my metal siding supplier. It worked wonders. It will also be something I look at when installing the lights.

This forum had such thoughtful how to comments. With great advise and critiques. Thank you so much it will definitely help in completing my projects. I'll post when completed.
 
Last edited:

Denwood

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
4,192
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
I had to mount eight of these RAB LED wall packs to my commercial buiding. The light housing serves as the electrical box, so all that is run through the walls is armoured cable. I spaced these away from the wall with 1/2" stainless spacers, then foamed the sheathing hole via a small hole drilled in the light housing itself after installation to seal it from air leaks.

These are active at night only via the sensor, however we have the entire series of eight controlled by motion sensors wired in paralell. Basically at night, any movement on the motion sensors triggers the entire building perimeter. We did this for max efficiency.

DWL2-LED301.png
 

hvclassics

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2017
Messages
7
Location
Pine Bush, NY
Wes73, ...I like how you adapted the 4" PVC 'collar'. I am about to mount some gooseneck lights and as others have noted, I want them symetrical and centered above the garage doors, between windows, etc.
I think I'm going to use that collar idea, and 'notch' where the high ribs are, so the base of the collar sits flat to the metal.
I'll plan to post pics when I do this, ...as well as some of the garage.

Thanks,

Kevin
 

cfk

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2021
Messages
67
Location
Iowa
Wanted to bump this thread back up as I am about to add some exterior lighting to my shop...

I will be mounting between two high ribs, similar to @kj_mustang above.. has anyone just used a round remodel box with the flange on the front of it? Add a vertical 2x6 behind it, hole saw the size of the box, caulk around the inside of the flange, slide the box in from the outside and screw it on.
 

sjsnydguy

New member
Joined
Oct 16, 2023
Messages
1
I know this is a post to an older thread, but thought I would share.

I have come up with a clean look with a minimal size hole needed for exterior lights on a pole building with steel sides.

Items needed: (1) Plastic Round Junction Box Wet Location, (1) 4” PVC Union, (1) ¾” plastic threaded adapter , about 6” of ¾” pvc conduit and clear caulk.

20141207_165550_zpsb1572a5d.jpg

20141207_171044_zpsf1114093.jpg

First thing is to cut the 4” PVC union. This will become the collar around the junction box. The trick is to cut it to a thickness of 1-1/2” while leaving the full stop in the center of the union. This stop fits snug around the outside of the junction box. I used my table saw to make the two cuts. The first was to cut the center to one side of the stop. The second cut was to then trim the remaining down to the 1 ½” size.

20141207_165650_zpse91faa39.jpg

20141207_165744_zps92b2b2ce.jpg

20141207_170658_zps1596cf6e.jpg

Next, cut the ears off of the Plastic Round Junction Box Wet Location. This will allow for a tighter fit. Now the junction box should have a nice fit inside the trimmed down pvc union.

Now locate where you want the lights. I have bridged the small ribs at various positions. I tried to place them with in 3” from them top of a purlin. I drilled a pilot hole from the inside. Then take a 1-1/2” hole saw and drill from the outside of the steel. It’s helpful to have someone on the inside holding a scrap piece of 2x4 to drill against. Ultimately you want to drill all the way through the 2x4, but this can be done ‘on the ground’ after you get through the steel.

At this point you should have a hole in your steel and a 2x4 with a hole as well. Now cut a piece of ¾” conduit to length. I think I cut mine to 3”. Glue this up to the ¾” plastic threaded adapter and thread into the back side of the junction box. Us the supplied plugs to close the 4 holes side hole on the junction box.

Apply a generous amount of clear caulk to the back of the junction box. I laid down about ¼” of caulk to the entire back except for the outermost ½” area. This will allow the caulk to spread out and not have any squeeze out. Now predrill two holes through the junction box, steel and 2x4 with the hole. Screw everything up. I added two short pieces of 2x4 vertically on the inside to attach the purlin to the 2x4 which the junction box is screwed into.

Slide the piece of PVC union on top of the junction box. Now when you attach a light fixture, it will tighten up against the junction box as well as the ‘collar’ and give a nice clean finish. I painted my collar with rustoleum krylon paint that closely matches my lights.

20141207_165928_zps0a6c823c.jpg

20141207_165831_zps4db1ca8b.jpg

20141207_165854_zps826726cc.jpg
This is the way to go. I explored a few options, but ended up doing this, cut a groove in the collar so I could center on the high rib. Overall a quick install and looks great. Thanks for the idea!
 
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