To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Converting fixed Shank Snap On Screwdriver to Interchangeable

Adam.C

Banned
Joined
Jan 29, 2013
Messages
1,490
I really like the feel of the old school Snap On Hard Handle ratcheting screwdrivers, p/n SSDMR4B(color code), but I prefer the ability to interchange shanks like the new ones can (p/n SGDMRC4A(color code)).

I searched this forum and found this thread:

Taking apart a Snap On Screwdriver

But I learned some things that may be helpful to those wishing to convert their fixed shank drivers to interchangeable shank. Chiefly, I believe I determined the true purpose of the washer in the ratcheting selector cap, discussed at length in the thread above.

1) Begin by removing the end cap. It is held in place by a snap ring, which can be accessed thru a recess in the end cap. There is no need to mark anything. The recess is always directly opposite the logo. When the end cap/selector is in the middle position (locked in both directions), it will be perfectly centered on the flat opposite the Snap On logo.

View media item 41323
In this picture, I haven't yet set the end cap selector to the mid position. You can move it back and forth to help get at the snap ring without scoring the plastic. You can't just stick a pair of pliers in there and and pinch the snap ring.

2) You will need fine needle nose pliers to squeeze the snap ring ends together.

View media item 41320
3) Slide the end cap off. It is likely some of the balls/parts from the ratchet mechanism will stick to the end cap. Carefully put these back where they go on the handle. It should look like this:

View media item 41324
4) Remove the spring washer from the shank using a pair of duck bill pliers or similar. Slide the shank out of the end cap. The end cap should look like this:

View media item 41316
5) This is the part I think others haven't misunderstood. The recess or counterbore in the center of the end cap is there for the spring washer only. If you reassemble now, your screwdriver will function fine and the new shanks with the spring loaded balls will be retained in the handle just fine.

The problem people have encountered is, with the washer gone and nothing in the counterbore, the ratchet gear is free to move axially. Here you can see it pulled out proud of the handle. It is designed to sit flush with the top surface.

View media item 41310
Without the washer, the screwdriver shaft will move in and out of the handle, pulling the ratcheting gear with it.

6) The solution is to simply fill in the recess with something; virtually anything will work. I have tried two different low cost solutions- both washers- black rubber neoprene is what Snap On used to make the interchangeable shanks. These washers actually don't touch the shank and do nothing to hold the shank securely. They only prevent the ratchet gear from moving axially. It is important to note that this is a wear surface and should be lubricated. I recommend Super Lube.

View media item 41319
Here, a nylon washer has been fitted This is a standard M8 washer. It has a 16mm OD and clearance for a 8mm shaft. The Snap On shanks are all roughly 8mm.

A hard M8 washer will need to be filed down slightly to fit properly. The counter bore has a 15.5mm diameter. It took me a few minutes with a flat file to get this to fit properly. A standard M8 rubber washer fits perfectly. The depth of the counter bore is about 1.7mm. Washers are available in veering thickness. These metric washers are typically available in 1mm, 1.5 or 1.6 or so, and 2.0mm. The 1.5-1.6mm washers work best.

The fit between the cap and the shanks is fairly tight. Not much play here and no need to reduce the clearance with a washer.

View media item 41309
7) Once the washer is fitted, lube lightly with Super Lube or your favorite lubricant. I squeezed the snap ring on the handle side and simply slipped the end cap with the new washer fitted over it. Once in place you can release the snap ring and viola! Now your HH screwdrivers can accept the interchangeable shanks.

Last: I fitted one nylon and one rubber washer. If I understand the ratchet correctly, the ratchet gear moves relative to this washer only when operating the send cap/ratchet selector. My assumption was that the harder nylon washer would feel better, smoother, and permit a more satisfying click. I was wrong. I detected virtually no difference between the rubber and nylon washers. Use the rubber M8 X 16 X 1.5mm washer (like Snap On did).

Only other caution is about applying the wrong kid of lube or too much of it. One of the things that makes these screwdrivers great is their super low back drag when ratcheting. I have three SO ratchet screwdrivers and none of them seemed to have much of any oil or lubricant in them. Super lube probably increased the back drag slightly. I may have done better with a light coating of 3 in 1 oil.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Biomed

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
662
Location
Minnesota
Anyone had any luck finding the rubber (or maybe nylon) washer described? Tried McMaster (they have everything :) ) but no success. I'd like to find a part number that I could order. I'm going to try this on one of my Williams ratcheting screwdrivers. If it works well I may convert all my Snap-on screwdrivers too.

You could even replace the non-knurled shafts on Williams and CAT screwdrivers with Snap-on shafts.
 
OP
A

Adam.C

Banned
Joined
Jan 29, 2013
Messages
1,490
Not easy to find metric washers in the US. Here's my advice. Buy 5/16" X 3/4" X 1/16 and cut down the od with an exacto knife.

Nylon will also work, but I see no advantage in using nylon and they are harder to fit.

Anything you put in that recess that previously housed the spring washer, will work. You could even try JBweld or plain ole epoxy.

You could make a washer out of cardboard and it would work.

Contrary to a previous 5 page post on this subject:
1) The washer does NOTHING to hold screwdriver shank.
2) The only relative motion between the ratchet gear and the washer occurs when changing the direction selection cap. So the joint sees very little motion.
3) The only force on the washer occurs when removing a shank with a ball detent (compression).

Therefore- spend as little as possible to fill this gap. We now understand what the washer (on the interchangeable screwdrivers) really is for: It allowed Snap On to reuse the metal portion of the end cap casting/machining from the non-interchangeable screwdriver, after they eliminated the spring/locking washer. If they were to redesign the end caps, my guess is the recess/counterbore on the inside of the cap would be eliminated.
 
Last edited:

Biomed

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
662
Location
Minnesota
I used an AC Delco 15-31054 seal on my screwdriver conversion. Fits in the cap snug and perfect sized hole for the shaft.

Looks like that is perfect. AC Delco specs are:

Thickness: 1.3 mm
Outside diameter: 16.1 mm
Inside diameter: 8.1 mm

GM part # is 52477087
Murray part # is 24401 (but these look a bit different.)

These seals are used on air conditioning and fuel systems.
 
OP
A

Adam.C

Banned
Joined
Jan 29, 2013
Messages
1,490
And we call ourselves Americans? Moderator should buy 1000 metric washers from ebay uk for 20 cents a piece and sell them for $5 each incl shipping to forum members, proceeds to benefit GJ. For an additional $1, my post should be printed in color and added to the package.

Heck for that matter, snap on should sell the ball detent replacement shafts with a free washer. They too can use my instructions. They could sell a lot more screwdriver parts.
 
Last edited:

ChevyEFI

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
8,756
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Looks like that is perfect. AC Delco specs are:

Thickness: 1.3 mm
Outside diameter: 16.1 mm
Inside diameter: 8.1 mm

GM part # is 52477087
Murray part # is 24401 (but these look a bit different.)

I remember reading about this piece in another thread.

I picked up the Murray 24401 from OReilly a few nights ago. $2.69 & tax.

With my "old caliper" I ended up measuring
0.051" (1.30mm) (this was the metal ring section; the rubber is thicker)
0.634" (16.10mm)
0.320" (8.13mm)

It didn't seat into the ratcheting selector cap and probably needs machined to a smaller o.d. to do so. IIRC, in the other thread, someone said it pressed into the cap without machining but I'd have to read it again. (edit, I now see "With a small amount of grinding on the OD you can make it fit into the recess of the cap ")

This meant that the ratcheting selector cap could not re-seat down far enough for the retaining clip (on my SSDMR48 I got off eBay) to seat.

Another thing I noticed is in it's non-seated position, the rubber section of the seal isn't going to hold the SGDMRC4-TM4 (Shank, 1/4" Square Drive, 5") securely at all. Maybe if it were compressed by the installation of the selector cap it might. I don't know yet.

If anyone has a need for a SSDMR4B1RTT Red End Cap, let me know. I believe I was incorrect in ordering it for my driver and based on email with SO, just ordered a SSDMR4A200RR.

Update 5/23: An SGDMRC4 (soft grip) and SSDMR4B (hard handle,) compared. The washer just fell out of the cap of the green cap. So maybe it has lost size. I don't know.
0.356" i.d. / 9.04mm
0.608" o.d. / 15.44mm
0.071" thick / 1.80mm
 

Attachments

  • 1527141339677_image.jpg
    1527141339677_image.jpg
    154.2 KB · Views: 52
  • 1527141103596_image.jpg
    1527141103596_image.jpg
    152.3 KB · Views: 37
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    149.8 KB · Views: 46
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Harrison2

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
982
Location
Bay area and UK
Just a little bump, got bored today and decided to try this with a Williams driver ($30, runs the same ratcheting mechanism as a snap on).

I didn't fit a washer just purely decided to see if these shanks from a kobalt set would fit, and sure enough they did. they also fit pretty snug, If I was going to do this indefinitely (I switched the shanks back after) I would open the top cap hole up a tiny bit, 1-2mm as switching the shanks was tight.





 

Finky198

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 25, 2014
Messages
2,120
Location
North East
118hj45.jpg


Napa Part 407401 u need to file it down a little bit but that's about it pretty straight forward
Works great thanks for the idea
 

redwrench60

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
6,069
Location
East Tennessee
Thought I'd bump this thread to show what I used for a washer to fill the void in the cap after the conversion. I used a small metal clad rubber seal from a GM transmission cooler line left over from a job. The thickness is perfect as is the I.D. And O.D. Now I'm all fixed up for interchangeable shanks! Great upgrade!

Seal is GM P/N: 25874797
AC Delco P/N: 25874797
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    137.4 KB · Views: 72
  • Like
Reactions: JMP

16again

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2010
Messages
1,941
Location
Boynton Beach, FL.
Yes I’m fully aware this is an old thread. This thread has better pictures than the Snap On ratcheting screwdriver repair thread. Perhaps it will help someone. :thumbup:
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom