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Rapid Air - Air line kit for garages....

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cj8lvr

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Madison, AL
I'm wondering if I could do it cheaper going through McMaster , Grainger, or somebody else by buying individual components.
 
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dps

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Working with flexible tubing or hose is much easier, especially on retrofits. That particular tubing is 1/2"o.d., I believe. A little small for long runs or continuous consumption tools. My main line is 3/4" i.d. rubber from Graco.
 
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cj8lvr

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What would you consider a "long run"? I have a two car garage that's a little deeper than most - I would guesstimate my furthest point from the compressor will be about 50' or so. Probably a little generous in that guess. It's probably less.
 
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dps

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I have a 75' run of 1/2" o.d. hose that is used for filling tires and some miscellaneous blowing, and it works fine for that. It will work fine for impact wrenches. But if you're going to spray with a medium air cap, sand, or sand-blast, it probably wouldn't keep up.
 
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cj8lvr

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Madison, AL
How tight a bend can you make in this particular brand of hose without needing an elbow connector? I was thinking of running it up the wall, through the ceiling and into the attic until I get over to where I want to do the drops back down through the ceiling and down along the walls. My only problem is that it needs to turn to go through the joists in the attic so I can run the lines under the decking on top of the joists in the attic.
 
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Torque1st

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Plastic line will not cool the air to remove moisture like metal line will.

Check your local codes. Some local fire codes do not allow anything but iron pipe. Firefighters hate it when a line goes and blows high pressure air at a fire.

Iron pipe is simple to use and cheap. You do NOT need a pipe threader to use it. Just buy an assortment of ******* in various lengths and return the ones you don't need.
 
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jeep63

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Feb 8, 2006
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Location
Maryland, USA
I used to look at these 'kits' for running air lines througout my garage. Eventually I just said "the heck with it" and went to copper. I am happy that I did. I add to the system every winter and I am just about done running it. Go with copper you will not regret it.
 
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Flash21

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Jul 23, 2008
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Torque1st said:
Iron pipe is simple to use and cheap. You do NOT need a pipe threader to use it. Just buy an assortment of ******* in various lengths and return the ones you don't need.
Click to expand...

Doesn't the internal pipe on iron pipes rust over time?
 
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chad s

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KLars1 said:
Doesn't the internal pipe on iron pipes rust over time?
Click to expand...

It does, but a proper setup should drop a lot of water out directly after the tank.

Also, I dont think that the amount of rust that forms would affect any of us in our lifetime, iron pipe is pretty thick.
 
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Flash21

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chad s said:
It does, but a proper setup should drop a lot of water out directly after the tank.

Also, I dont think that the amount of rust that forms would affect any of us in our lifetime, iron pipe is pretty thick.
Click to expand...

I see; I was thinking more along the lines of the rust causing problems with the tools on the line. I guess proper filtering is essential...

Does anyone have some links to where a 'proper setup' is discussed for hard lines? I'm working on changing my setup now and want to go with some hard lines.
 
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chad s

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KLars1 said:
I see; I was thinking more along the lines of the rust causing problems with the tools on the line. I guess proper filtering is essential...

Does anyone have some links to where a 'proper setup' is discussed for hard lines? I'm working on changing my setup now and want to go with some hard lines.
Click to expand...

A good water separator/pressure regulator with a changeable filter should catch any debris. Am air dryer wouldn't be a bad idea either for any setup.
 
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