how to transition metal from shed to lean too.

espolebarn · Sep 18, 2014

Building a lean too on side of the pole barn. What is the best way to make a waterproof transition from the side of the shed to the metal roof of the lean too?? Please tell me I can do something better besides cutting the metal on my shed and tucking flashing under....

Here is a pic, we are just getting started and don't even have the metal yet. I have heard there is some expensive "tape" that people use?

What is the preferred method to make this area seamless?

Ruthless53 · Sep 18, 2014

Mueller makes a piece of flashing for that. Half R panel half flat. R panel side goes on to the vertical wall and flat panel side goes on the roof. Give them the rise and run of the rafters and they will get the proper angle bent for you. Pretty cheap if I remember.

I did a lot of research on this before I did mine a few months back and aside from cutting into side of existing building this is the only way that's feasible. I also put a brad of silicone behind the flashing to really seal it plus they have foam inserts to go under the flat panel side (roof of lean to) to bugs/debris out. It's worked great.

espolebarn · Oct 16, 2014

I would like to revisit this and see if there are any other option.

Update. metal is now on, the corrugations of the lean to roof do not match up with the siding, didnt really think that through I guess... So that might kill the idea above.

So, there is a gap the width of the siding corrugation along the top of this roof, about 1". Too big to just caulk, which wouldn't really hold up over a few years anyhow (I wouldn't think at least.)

Am I really stuck with the option of sawing open a line in my siding to tuck in a piece of flashing? I REALLY dont want to go that route. Main building is 16' tall and top of lean to is about 12' so its about 4' area where a hard blowing rain could hit the siding and run down.

is there any like Super spray expanding rubber?

(kinda kidding, i think...)

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EDIT - after I wrote this up I went searching for the Muller piece that Ruthless53 was describing. I attached an image from their catalog, is this it? I am guessing I flip it over so corrugations match to siding and the flat is on the roof of the lean too. How to you seal behind this so water will not enter, adhesive/caulk?

Thanks for any tips

kj_mustang · Oct 16, 2014

The flat piece is supposed to slide under the siding. Here is another example from tricounty metals. Scroll down to the endwall flashing on page 16. ULTRA-RIB-MANUAL-Revised-2.27.pdf

gungatim · Oct 16, 2014

too late now, but when I did mine, I put the peak of the lean-to all the way up under the main roof overhang. you would have gotten more height, a better load rating, and the gap becomes a non-issue, in fact, it lets the lean-to vent a bit...

but i do think I have seen either foam or wood strips that are flat and trimmable on one side, but cut to the profile of both steel sheeting and corrugated sheeting for use in gap filling. Check out a building supply. that would fill your gap and then use some sealer. proper way though is to cut the steel and flash properly.

espolebarn · Oct 16, 2014

Thanks guys, just going to have to think on this a bit I guess.

It looks like those tri county metal people will custom make any kind of trim piece I could want too.

MagKarl · Oct 16, 2014

Is it really going to be a problem if occasional sideways rain hits the upper wall and runs down? It could stay the way you have it if you really don't want to cut into the siding. At least right now the enclosed building envelope is intact. Most of your regular rain is going to miss that area due to overhang coverage above.

bczygan · Oct 16, 2014

Take ANOTHER piece of the siding, large enough to go from just above the lean to roof, all the way up under the overhang of the main building. Make it a bit wider than the lean to.

Install the purpose made flashing on top of the lean to, and against the wall.

Now, take this new wall panel and install it over the flashing and existing wall.

Use sealant all around the perimeter and the proper fasteners. Let the left and right edges end in the valleys of the existing wall.

espolebarn · Oct 16, 2014

while it may not be too much of a problem, its facing to the north, that is where our hardest storms come in. I am not too concerned about it but would like to do something at least.

I did find this product, it might be a PIA to install against corragated tin on the shed side, but maybe if I took my time it would work, cheap enough to try I guess

"U.Seal 6 inch x 33 ft. Embossed Aluminum Faced Flashing Tape"
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16773

espolebarn · Oct 16, 2014

bczygan,

Great idea, dont know why i didnt think of that before. Simple enough, just have to buy a some more metal.

kelpaso1 · Oct 16, 2014

espolebarn said:
bczygan,

Great idea, dont know why i didnt think of that before. Simple enough, just have to buy a some more metal.

Ya I think this would be the cheapest and leak proof way to do it.

Ruthless53 · Oct 16, 2014

espolebarn said:
I would like to revisit this and see if there are any other option.

Update. metal is now on, the corrugations of the lean to roof do not match up with the siding, didnt really think that through I guess... So that might kill the idea above.

So, there is a gap the width of the siding corrugation along the top of this roof, about 1". Too big to just caulk, which wouldn't really hold up over a few years anyhow (I wouldn't think at least.)

Am I really stuck with the option of sawing open a line in my siding to tuck in a piece of flashing? I REALLY dont want to go that route. Main building is 16' tall and top of lean to is about 12' so its about 4' area where a hard blowing rain could hit the siding and run down.

is there any like Super spray expanding rubber? (kinda kidding, i think...)

------------
EDIT - after I wrote this up I went searching for the Muller piece that Ruthless53 was describing. I attached an image from their catalog, is this it? I am guessing I flip it over so corrugations match to siding and the flat is on the roof of the lean too. How to you seal behind this so water will not enter, adhesive/caulk?

Thanks for any tips

In the picture with the arrow is what i was told to use by mueller. One half corrugated and one half flat.

The corrugated part goes on the vertical wall of the shed. The flat part goes on the roof of the lean too. they gave me the rubber silly putty stuff to go under the corrugated part (i added a bead of silicone above that to ensure seal.

The flat part sits on the top of the peaks of the corrugated roof of lean to and is screwed down. Not really a seal on that side as the water should shed right off but they gave me some foam inserts to put in the valleys of the roof to keep birds, wasps, ect out of there.

I wish I was going out there tonight and I would snap a picture but Im sure I will in the next couple days.

Old rancher · Jan 7, 2018

Only way to do it right is to use a Z flashing, which will require cutting a thin slot to tuck the upper part of the Z into and then caulk with silicone. On the roof side it will screw down to the high ribs, then squirt some door and window foam under it, once that dries cut any sticking out off and paint the exposed foam with a rubberized seal coat. Ta Da, permanently weather proofed.

Note: be sure!! to use door and window spray foam as the other is to forcefully expansive and you will not like the results.

Nor'Easter · Jan 7, 2018

Proper way includes removing the sheets above the shed roof, installing a a piece of valley flashing broke to the correct angle, that runs 8-12" up the wall, and laps on top of the shed roofing 12". Then reinstall the original eave sheets using a run of ridge vent between the sheet and flashing to reduce the amount of wind (and therefore snow, rain, debris) from being blown up the gap.

Cutting the eave sheets and installing Z flashing with silicone is at the very bottom of the list of options I would consider.

Edit: Noticed the plate bolted to the building. I'd run the valley flashing as mentioned then install new tin cut to the correct length, over the current tin that is above the shed.

p_mori7 · Jan 7, 2018

The correct way:

Bad Eye Bill · Jan 7, 2018

gungatim said:
too late now, but when I did mine, I put the peak of the lean-to all the way up under the main roof overhang. you would have gotten more height, a better load rating, and the gap becomes a non-issue, in fact, it lets the lean-to vent a bit...

but i do think I have seen either foam or wood strips that are flat and trimmable on one side, but cut to the profile of both steel sheeting and corrugated sheeting for use in gap filling. Check out a building supply. that would fill your gap and then use some sealer. proper way though is to cut the steel and flash properly.

The bolded. I've done it three times with no leaks.

jarhead · Jul 23, 2019

what did you end up doing?

And how did you attach that header board to the existing metal? It appears to be on top of the metal, may just be my old eyes.

Thanks

how to transition metal from shed to lean too.

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