Simple hoist for upstairs/downstairs loads

KenB · Dec 8, 2008

I'm new here and have spent several hours learning cool ideas, tips and tricks. I'm looking forward to using them in my new 30x40', 2-story pole barn. The contractor is just now preparing to form the floor and lay the PEX tubing. Meanwhile, lots of things need to be stored upstairs and I thought I'd share my experience solving this problem.

After the 3rd back-straining trip up the stairs, I decided I needed some mechanical help. I first built a 3x3' platform and lift consisting of rope and pulleys in the stairwell. This worked, but was a lot of work, only moved the load up and down, and was very unsafe if the rope slipped out of my hands.

I found a 440/880 lb. electric hoist on Craigslist, which I mated with a "hoist frame" from Cabelas (designed for dressing game, but rated at 1300 lbs :shocking:

, but I don't plan to use it for more than ~200). Made a pole using 1-1/2" black pipe, secured to the floor and roof rafter. First thing I lifted was a 5-drawer steel file cabinet, which must have weighed around 125 lbs. Very easy.

Here's how it looks.

Connection to the roof rafter

Boom swung over loading/storage area

Boom swung over stairwell

Ken

tigmusky · Dec 8, 2008

nice!!!! great idea..
thanks Daye

kbs2244 · Dec 8, 2008

Nice job.

The only problem with making it so easy to get heavy stuff up the stairs is that it is so easy to over load the floor.
I had an emergency repair job replacing 2 cracked floor joists when a fellow had too many engine parts up there.

BLUBAYOU · Dec 8, 2008

looks cool. I am planning something similar myself, though entry/access will be through a gable end door which will be under the attached carport

Steve in Mi · Dec 8, 2008

This is one method I use to raise items to my second floor wood shop. 3 HP Delta Unisaw is the heaviest item raised so far with it. It is a typical Thern (sp) cable hoist the type usually mounted in the rear of a truck. I've added a much larger mounting plate and bearing in the base of the mount to allow it to rotate smoothly to bring the lifted item from the stairwell to the second level floor. An electric cable winch may someday replace the hand crank winch if someone gives me one.

Kevin54 · Dec 9, 2008

I'm not so sure that I would want to compromise one roof rafter that way. It may be fine for a light load, but someone sees that idea and next thing they want to do is hoist up a garden tractor. Good idea but I would hate to crack a rafter.

must8657 · Dec 9, 2008

great idea. just ordered mine from cabelas two minutes after seeing the pic. unlike others, i am looking forward to overloading my floor and cracking a rafter.
jason

justinmc · Dec 9, 2008

NICE... as mentioned as long as you have the support to hold up what you are dumping up there. I was thinking of doing some loft type space when I expand but I was looking at doing more of a "dumbwaiter" setup vs. a actual hoist. A whole section of the flooring that I could raise/lower. My thought was to use it to hoist tires/wheels and bulky parts.. not so much heavy stuff. I'd be scared to stuff a BBC on some joists above my head!..

ovilla · Dec 9, 2008

I made a 4'X4' opening in my garage attic floor and then mounted a HF 1,300 lb hoist to a 12' section of barn door rail. This has worked out really well and has allowed me to hoist my lawn mower, pressure washer, edger, wheels, and a ton of other stuff up there. I've also got a 5/8" OSB floor in the attic, along with reinforced trusses, so the weight ends up getting distributed across the whole floor really well. Anyway, if anobody is needing to clear up their garage floor, do think about this project. It's really not that expensie either. Here's my cost breakdown.

HF 1,300 lb hoist (double line capacity) - $129 (Pre-turkey day sale)
12' of Barn door rail + Plus misc hardware - $69 + $40
8' of 2" angle iron and plywood for attic floor door - $40

e-tek · Dec 9, 2008

I want to mount one of those on my truck....that way I can lift engines and stuff in easily...problem is only having a base attachment point and I'm no engineer (I don't even own a train!!).

ovilla · Dec 9, 2008

e-tek - I've seen some that can be attached to a class III hitch. I think they use them mostly for lifting wheel chairs into SUV's. Just google it and you'll find a ton of them.

JSK · Dec 9, 2008

This may be a better solution for the big stuff.

:rocker:

New addition to our lineup.

Jeff
BendPak

PAToyota · Dec 9, 2008

JSK said:
This may be a better solution for the big stuff.

HOLY ****!

And I thought I didn't have the ceiling height for a normal lift! :wtf:

Bevis · Dec 9, 2008

Holy Smokes... :yikes:

is that an elevator :thumbup:

v8garage · Dec 9, 2008

Don't want to pop any ones bubble here but screw pipe has no load or structural rating and is not proper for any load lifting apparatus. It will probably be okay for the light loads Kenb is using it for but I wanted to mention this before someone gets the idea to use screw pipe for heavy loads. Screw pipe wall thickness is extremely compromised by the thread depth and is only as strong as the deepest part of the thread. Using screw pipe for load lifting or for a structural component would be illegal in an industrial environment as it is a violation of OSHA and MSHA regulations.

Iron-Iceberg · Dec 9, 2008

Who was it that wanted a lift for there basement? Here it is.

nonhog · Dec 9, 2008

must8657 said:
great idea. just ordered mine from cabelas two minutes after seeing the pic. unlike others, i am looking forward to overloading my floor and cracking a rafter.
jason

That "CRACKS" me up !

must8657 · Dec 10, 2008

nonhog said:
That "CRACKS" me up !

thanks. i get tired of all the "don't do that" or don't do this" especially when most of it is wives tales and the original poster isn't asking for that kind of advice. they all sound like my dad. he would always tell me something isn't safe and then when i ask why does he think that. well it is something i just heard.

example:
don't do your own garage door springs. give me a break. this was one of the easiest things i have ever done. running a chainsaw is much more dangerous and they will sell those to anyone.

since we are on a garage forum i would venture to say that most of us have some common sense and know the risks involved in doing what we do.

bomber · Dec 10, 2008

adapt and overcome -- I salute the OP for his create approach to a common problem!

Pennytech at it's best, sez me!

Brad54 · Feb 6, 2009

You know, I've got a nice storage loft above my office out in the shop: 10x10, built in the front corner of my shop, so it's all tied in together pretty well.
I've got a short pallet rack up there, and have already started carrying stuff up the ladder to store--but there are a good number of things I don't want to carry up the ladder. The front bench seats to a '56 and '57 Chevy come immediately to mind.

The pick-up truck crane is the perfect solution! I doubt I'll be putting anything heavy up there like cylinder heads or cranks (I've got a pallet rack in the shop for really heavy stuff), but big, bulky things like those seats, Suburban lift and tail gate, etc. Things that weigh under 100 pounds, but are awkward.

Time to start shopping!

-Brad

black88mx6 · Feb 9, 2009

The support arm looks to be the same one from Harbor Freight as found here.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46980

Can you confirm that the Cabela's one is any different?

What other steel post options would be better to mount this to? I have the 400/800 hoist already.

35mastr · Feb 9, 2009

black88mx6 said:
The support arm looks to be the same one from Harbor Freight as found here.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46980

Can you confirm that the Cabela's one is any different?

What other steel post options would be better to mount this to? I have the 400/800 hoist already.

DOM tubing with a nice wall thickness would be the way to go.

Its used in roll cages and pretty bulllet proof.

black88mx6 · Apr 19, 2009

35mastr said:
DOM tubing with a nice wall thickness would be the way to go.

Anyone know of a way that I would use the DOM tubing and mount it to the floor and ceiling? Of course this would be re-enforced, but I am looking for an adater that I could use that would allow me to set in the pipe, and then allow me to screw it into the floor. Something like want was used in the project above, but without the threads.

Update;

Looks like I should be looking at a forged steel flange, that will allow me to insert 1 1/2 inch OD DOM tubing into. I might also look into some sort of metal plate top and bottom to spread out the load some.

Another possible option looks to be scaffolding pipe and base plates, top and bottom. It looks like 38mm or 1 1/2 inch pipe is pretty standard, and can come in around 5mm wall thickness.

Here is one of the base plate examples.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/5e/5e6d177d-4fe4-4dd2-b300-b50995d8859a_300.jpg

chrislehr · Apr 19, 2009

Thats hot. Do want. Need similar. This investment reduces my "hey honey" count greatly.

Kingdom · Oct 3, 2009

Steve in Mi said:
This is one method I use to raise items to my second floor wood shop. It is a typical Thern (sp) cable hoist the type usually mounted in the rear of a truck. I've added a much larger mounting plate and bearing in the base of the mount to allow it to rotate smoothly to bring the lifted item from the stairwell to the second level floor.

Hi Steve, I'm interested in your design and especially how you fitted the bearing. Could you also advise if you made it yourself or did you purchase the basic unit? If you had any drawings of the unit I would be interested in a copy.

Thank you in advance.

Steve in Mi · Oct 4, 2009

Kingdom said:
Hi Steve, I'm interested in your design and especially how you fitted the bearing. Could you also advise if you made it yourself or did you purchase the basic unit? If you had any drawings of the unit I would be interested in a copy.

Thank you in advance.

The crane is a "Thern" that I bought at a yard sale ($25.) This photo is as close as I can find at Thern.com to what I have. The bearing is a throwout bearing from a 1980 Ford truck with the spring clips removed and a centering hub to fit the ID of both the crane pipe and bearing. Nothing fancy, just what I had on hand. The larger base plate I added to distribute the load better. There is a wall at the edge of the stairs and two 2 X 12 floor joist setting on that wall to handle the vertical load. The 5/16" plate is lag screwed into the two joists at the edge and the next two 2 X 12 joists at 16" and 32". The floor is 1.25" thick and lag screws are 3.5" long by 5/16".

fireball 440 · Oct 5, 2009

I'm planning to make a shelf/table to keep my snowmobiles and 4 wheelers stacked on top of each other to clear up floor space. I was at a standstill on how to raise them up there until now. Thanks guys!

oldcpecdr · Oct 5, 2009

I wanted to lift shop tools up to my second floor area, copied and used several ideas found here on the board, I used an 8 foot I-Beam through bolted with threaded rod and sandwiched over 6 of the third floor joists. Any load I have pulled up deflects virtually ZERO. Used the HF 880 pound hoist and a thousand pound rated trolley.. limit it to 500 pounds max. A 4 x 6 hatch built solidly and a counterweight system to open..BEST project for the money I have ever built..maybe 250 bux tops in all...has cleaned up the first floor a LOT enabling me to move the compressor, various benches, bead blast cabinet, an engine project, snow blower... and other stuff all upstairs and out of the way...some pics attached// Mike B..... THANKS AGAIN for all the ideas I have seen here !!!!!!

jrobles376 · Dec 13, 2009

Just installed attic stars and a hoist. i am going to hoist up small totes and boxes. Any suggestions on straps or a small basket to pull up 2 or 3 boxes at a time. Opening is 23" wide by 40" long with stars out

Mr_fixit · Dec 13, 2009

jrobles376 said:
Just installed attic stars and a hoist. i am going to hoist up small totes and boxes. Any suggestions on straps or a small basket to pull up 2 or 3 boxes at a time. Opening is 23" wide by 40" long with stars out

Sometimes I use old seat belts with loops tied into them to raise lawnmovers, snowblowers, table saw , etc from the first floor to the second floor. They'll handle way more than you think

ovilla · Dec 13, 2009

jrobles376 said:
Just installed attic stars and a hoist. i am going to hoist up small totes and boxes. Any suggestions on straps or a small basket to pull up 2 or 3 boxes at a time. Opening is 23" wide by 40" long with stars out

I use this ONE strap for ALL of my lifting needs:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36612

I tied and created big loops about every 3' along the strap, making sure that I could slip the strap's metal hooks easily through any loop. Then I got a big round piece of steel that was fully welded around (looks like a big letter "O" and can be found at any tractor supply store).

Anyway, I attached the "O" ring to the hook end of my HF hoist. Then any time I want to lift 2-3 boxes (or whatever) I put the strap over the item and slide the metal hook through whatever loop is closest to the top of my load. Then I attach the straps metal hook to the "O" ring. For added safety I also put the other hook onto the same "O" ring. As you can see, all I've done is made it so the strap can become whatever size is needed at the time, as the length is really from the hook end to whichever loop is needed. Finally, make sure you have a strap that can handle the load like these 2-3 ton ones and make sure it's 2-3" wide too, as it helps to keep the strap from slipping on most things.

kbs2244 · Dec 13, 2009

These are all great ideas.

The only thing I would worry about is when you make it so easy to put so much stuff upstairs is that you may go over the carrying limit of your floor joists.

200 lbs here, 500 lbs there. It all adds up pretty quick.

Just keep in mind how much you have up there.

30cl · Dec 21, 2009

oldcpecdr said:
I wanted to lift shop tools up to my second floor area, copied and used several ideas found here on the board, I used an 8 foot I-Beam through bolted with threaded rod and sandwiched over 6 of the third floor joists. Any load I have pulled up deflects virtually ZERO. Used the HF 880 pound hoist and a thousand pound rated trolley.. limit it to 500 pounds max. A 4 x 6 hatch built solidly and a counterweight system to open..BEST project for the money I have ever built..maybe 250 bux tops in all...has cleaned up the first floor a LOT enabling me to move the compressor, various benches, bead blast cabinet, an engine project, snow blower... and other stuff all upstairs and out of the way...some pics attached// Mike B..... THANKS AGAIN for all the ideas I have seen here !!!!!!

Where would one get an I-beam from? I didn't see it in HF. Thanks.

raildawg · Dec 22, 2009

like old cpecdr's pics alot am planing something like that to hoist up to a loft/2nd story. just not sure how much bracing will be needed for the trusses.

Ign · Dec 22, 2009

30cl said:
Where would one get an I-beam from? I didn't see it in HF. Thanks.

Any local steel supplier. It's not cheap tho, relative to other steel. Look on CL or look for people just trying to give away misc "scrap metal." Seems there's always I-beam in free batches around here, but you've gotta be able to jump on it, and preferably have a trailer.

If you're overloading wood joists................well, that's 'cause wood *****. Steel buildings are awesome, but you can always replace or sandwich your wood joists w steel - that's pretty much what I'm doing to my entire deck as it slowly warps, cracks and fails (which is what wood does best).

My shop hoist feeds all my heavy storage up to pallet racking; I'd be worried about the 4" slab failing before the racking itself lets go.

jamesemery728 · Dec 22, 2009

A bunch of great ideas for moving loads up and down stairs but there is one thing that worries me about all of them. I don't have any little ones in my shop but I know a lot of you guys do. A stairway w/o a railing around it is an accident waiting to happen. I would try to make a railing that would lift up out of the way when using the lift and then could be put back in place when the lift was not being used. Don't mean to be a downer on a lot of good ideas, but just hate to see anyone get hurt.

krooser · Dec 22, 2009

Kevin54 said:
I'm not so sure that I would want to compromise one roof rafter that way. It may be fine for a light load, but someone sees that idea and next thing they want to do is hoist up a garden tractor. Good idea but I would hate to crack a rafter.

Most of the load is being handled by the floor.... I doubt that little winch would ever move anything large enough to damage that part of the truss but adding a few 2X4's between the trusses would spread the load... or you could double up the top cord of the truss to carry the extra weight.

Stinger · Dec 22, 2009

Here is how I did mine cheap and easy. I only have about $150 in the entire hoist/track system. I posted this in my garage makeover thread a few months ago:

Electric Attic Hoist on Barn Door Track:

Loaded with over 400lbs of car part boxes (brake rotors, coil-over springs, struts, starters, intake manifolds, etc.)

Video of the hoist in action:

The electric hoist is from Harbor Freight. It's the 1100lb/500lb unit for $139. Then it was on sale for $99 in a magazine, then I used a 20% off coupon from the same magazine for a total price of $79. For the track, I got the 450lb rated stuff from McMaster-Carr. I bought two 8' sections on sale for $18 each and two trolley's for $21 each. I decided to skip the mounting brackets that they said were required every 2ft and on the ends (which saved me $130) and just drilled holes in it and ran 3.5" decking screws straight into the 2x6 in the attic. I just loaded it with screws (12 per 8' section, spaced 1' apart and doubled up near the ends) and it works great.

Part Numbers:
McMaster Invoice:
1143A61 HANGER WITH BOLT FOR FRAMED DOOR, 400# CAP/PR, STEEL ROLLER BEARING $ 18.12 QTY 2

1207A34 STEEL ROLLER TRACK SYSTEM FOR DOORS, DOOR TRACK, 400#CAP, GALV, 8',1-3/4"W X 2-1/4"H $21.26 QTY 2

Harbor Freight:
ITEM 93251-1VGA $139.99 QTY 1
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93251

I've since used the pulley that comes with the hoist to double up the line which cuts the speed of the lift in half which makes it smoother and easier to control. I've lifted 3 engines with it, tons of boxes full of engine parts, brakes, suspension components, etc. and it's done it without issue. I think it's the most useful part of my garage makeover. Being able to move it side to side 16 ft once I lift into the attic is very handy as well.

LWW · Feb 22, 2011

Stinger said:
Video of the hoist in action:

That's a brilliant install and doing it for ~$157 is just crazy. I agree you needed to double up the line on the hoist to cut the speed in half. That was a crazy fast line speed in the video!

Looks like I may be flooring my garage joists and putting up hoisting system. I have a spanish tile roof so my joists are pretty beefy. When I replace the roof with composite shingle I'll have an immense amount of "free" load bearing capacity on those things.

99SVT · Feb 23, 2011

I built the bathroom in my shop over size and over engineered for storage on top of it, and put one of these in it:

http://www.jnkproducts.com/versa-lift.htm

although it won't work in most of ya'lls cases, as it is only rated at 200lbs, it works well for what I need it for.

Simple hoist for upstairs/downstairs loads

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