CL Find: Did I do Good or take too big of a bite?

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

I haven't decided if I did good or not yet. I came across another toolbox deal.
This time, a huge one. Snap-on triple bank with top box and side locker. It looked great in the pictures the guy sent me. When I got there it slowly went downhill.
The box had been sitting a while and most of the drawers are very hard to pull out. I figured I may be able to get the slides warrantied or clean them using methods I've seen on here. Next... It had some rust... This is what really deterred me. A spot of rust in the locker, then a spot I almost missed right on the top of the bottom box. About 2 inches long and it went all the way through.

Anyways I'll get to the chase. Guy was firm on his price since he had people ringing his phone off the wall, luckily I was the first person. He had bought a piece of property that went up for sale by the state after taxes hadn't been paid. Said look through and see if I see anything else I like.
I found a good majority of parts for diesels rigs sitting on this table. From cummins, power stroke, to international.
Told the guy I'll take the box if he throws in all the parts on that table. He said deal.
Now to load the damn thing.

On that table was a brand new in the box Turbo from international for a big rig. Also a brand new injector pump. I didnt know much about prices on those things at the time but my buddy did.

Price for it all........ $1500. Did I do good or bite off more than I can chew? The rust on the box scares me but I think I should be able to clean it up.
Here's the pictures, sorry for the long post.

Photo guy sent me, the ad didn't have any pictures

Had to take the locker off, strapped down and hammered it out of there

Was late so just backed into garage with it

The turbo and injector pump among other parts.

I will get pictures of the bad on the box and post them.

DRhodes · Oct 17, 2014

I'd say you did really good. Depending on the turbo and injector pump, you may make almost 1,500 out of them alone.

madison069 · Oct 17, 2014

Without seeing the rust, it looks like you did good! Just needs some cleaning and polishing on the toolbox. As for that turbo that should get your money back plus more

NUTTSGT · Oct 17, 2014

So you clean the box, oil or replace a few slides and maybe repaint a side of the box. You have a huge Snap on box that will last the rest of your life for rather cheap or you flip it right now and relist it for $2500.

That box is what $10K new and you got some parts to peddle off in the mean time. I'm sure there's a few diesel guys here or your buddy can help you move those. Heck, you might walk away after selling those pieces with a "free" or next to nothing box.

I'll be the optimistic one here and tell you that you ****.

Spudland_Dave · Oct 17, 2014

Without even seeing the damage pics, I'd say you did Excellent. Honestly as mentioned I think the suckage or COMPLETE Suckage really depends on what you got for engine parts. very possible you just got yourself a free KRL here...

As for the box itself...all depends on what you want out of it....getting it mechanically 100% again will not be an issue...I bet Diesel soak will address the slides. Rust is where you gotta pick your road...sand and spray-bomb it with touch up paint will probably suffice for corrosion issues and such...mechanically you'll end up with a perfect box. BUT if you wanna go whole hog, i'd probably take it all apart, sand it down...body work it, prime & paint to like new condition..

Depends...are you a guy who views it as "Just a toolbox"..meant to be used/beat up/banged up?

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

Top of locker

Bottom of locker

The worst.... Top of bottom box. Wonder if I can just replace that whole piece of metal on top or repaint. I could hide it easy but I couldn't bring myself to do that

It needs some loving but I like a project

Will start researching ways to clean slides, restore faded paint, and where to sell the parts I got

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

Spudland_Dave said:
Without even seeing the damage pics, I'd say you did Excellent. Honestly as mentioned I think the suckage or COMPLETE Suckage really depends on what you got for engine parts. very possible you just got yourself a free KRL here...

As for the box itself...all depends on what you want out of it....getting it mechanically 100% again will not be an issue...I bet Diesel soak will address the slides. Rust is where you gotta pick your road...sand and spray-bomb it with touch up paint will probably suffice for corrosion issues and such...mechanically you'll end up with a perfect box. BUT if you wanna go whole hog, i'd probably take it all apart, sand it down...body work it, prime & paint to like new condition..

Depends...are you a guy who views it as "Just a toolbox"..meant to be used/beat up/banged up?

I'm definitely a guy who views a toolbox as kept clean and only the insides touched. That's why I almost walked away from this one after seeing the rust. Luckily the parts sweetened the deal for me... And it was an hour and half drive.....

My box at home, it will stay clean under it's cover.

BJ42LX · Oct 17, 2014

Waggoner72 said:

That should buff right out. Really. Give it a try.

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

BJ42LX said:
That should buff right out. Really. Give it a try.

I will get the thing washed then I will start trying to buff some. Hopefully can post some progress pics.

FJ 432 · Oct 17, 2014

It's amazing how well your purchase will look once you clean it up and maybe throw some auto wax on the pair.

I think you bought yourself a hell of a lot of storage for 1,500. You ****.

wornoutoldman · Oct 17, 2014

You do indeed **** :thumbup:

a rather large one :beer:

glenmore · Oct 17, 2014

That is a TON of work ahead of you but us guys here consider that fun!

Nice Vidmar!

Lassen Forge · Oct 17, 2014

Not bad considering the parts deal, but it looks to me the box will need some serious help... replace the cancered out metal and cleaned up and reshot, you'll have a d@m^ed nice box.

While it wasn't 20 grand of stuff for free, I would still give you an official Hoover Award for this one. Well done, sir!

Buckgnarly · Oct 17, 2014

Holy ****, 1500 plus those parts......some polishers here might balk, but that is a DAMN fine box, even if it is not winning any beauty pageants! A little elbow grease and time and........
You, ****!...even more! :beer:

woody 73 · Oct 17, 2014

Honey child you done good...No way in Heck in my area would you get that kind of deal. :thumbup:

Clean up that box fix the rust issues and sit back and enjoy that box, then in 40 years sell it to the next young guy that needs a great tool box. :beer:

zkling · Oct 17, 2014

I'd start by tracing the path of the rust. If the top of the bottom box is really rusted through, it probably got to the inside and bottom of the box as well. Where did the water come from? Is it on the top box at all? Strange for just the bottom box to have rust issues like that if they were stacked together all that time.

What are the model numbers?

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

zkling said:
I'd start by tracing the path of the rust. If the top of the bottom box is really rusted through, it probably got to the inside and bottom of the box as well. Where did the water come from? Is it on the top box at all? Strange for just the bottom box to have rust issues like that if they were stacked together all that time.

What are the model numbers?

The top box was definitely purchased later on. I just got all the drawers pulled out of the top. I can't get the slides out though. There isn't the screw in there, I've hammered up but no luck. Anyways,
Bottom box is kr-1003 (not krl

) top: KRL-1203A. Locker: 1012A.
When I get a buddy I'm going to take the top box off.

Spudland_Dave · Oct 17, 2014

Waggoner72 said:
I'm definitely a guy who views a toolbox as kept clean and only the insides touched. That's why I almost walked away from this one after seeing the rust. Luckily the parts sweetened the deal for me... And it was an hour and half drive.....

Nice! Is your current box a 7022? Sounds like your up for a project...IMHO your not NEEDING to move into your box tomorrow morning type thing, so take your time, refinish it 100% in any color you want and you'll have a very nice box. The Satin/Flat black boxes seem to be all the rage, would hide alot of sins. White KRL is Sexxy as well... :dunno:

I'm an overkill kinda guy...i'm not joking when I say I'd be looking for a soda blaster or sandblaster to blast the whole box, inside & out as step one...then see what I have for damage and repair from there.

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

Spudland_Dave said:
Nice! Is your current box a 7022? Sounds like your up for a project...IMHO your not NEEDING to move into your box tomorrow morning type thing, so take your time, refinish it 100% in any color you want and you'll have a very nice box. The Satin/Flat black boxes seem to be all the rage, would hide alot of sins. White KRL is Sexxy as well...

I'm an overkill kinda guy...i'm not joking when I say I'd be looking for a soda blaster or sandblaster to blast the whole box as step one...then see what I have for damage and repair from there.

Yes that is a 7022, would like to have the 1022, but I bought that box when I was 17 and I want to keep it since it's my first box.
I will see what the damage is once I get this heavy sucker of a top box off. No idea how I got the thing off the trailer myself. I said a prayer before I let it start rolling.

Bunit98 · Oct 17, 2014

Nice box!!

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

Bunit98 said:
Nice box!!

Thank you.

MikeF2316 · Oct 17, 2014

Waggoner72 said:
I just got all the drawers pulled out of the top. I can't get the slides out though. There isn't the screw in there, I've hammered up but no luck. Anyways,

Mike's newer Snap-on slide removal instructions.

First you need a tool. Snap-on makes one, but I just use this, part of a 5 piece trim removal set from Princess Auto:

This is in a new KRA, but yours looks like the same design:

The tool "installed" in the removal position. Lift up on the end of the slide in the direction of the black arrow. Note the position of the tool lined up with the rectangular hole.

The slide pivots about the points in yellow circles.

Good Luck! (It's really easy once you've done it a couple of times.)

jabberwoki · Oct 17, 2014

I think you`ll be just fine with a little bit of work those will look fantastic.

Waggoner72 · Oct 17, 2014

MikeF2316 said:
Mike's newer Snap-on slide removal instructions.

First you need a tool. Snap-on makes one, but I just use this, part of a 5 piece trim removal set from Princess Auto:

This is in a new KRA, but yours looks like the same design:

The tool "installed" in the removal position. Lift up on the end of the slide in the direction of the black arrow. Note the position of the tool lined up with the rectangular hole.

The slide pivots about the points in yellow circles.

Good Luck! (It's really easy once you've done it a couple of times.)

I've done these same type of slides before atleast I think so. Last time I just pushed up on them and they popped out, pivoted on the point in the picture you posted. I guess I may need to pry them away like you showed. It is definitely not a newer box and not new slides.

Catamount · Oct 17, 2014

What a deal!!!

fordbroncodave · Oct 17, 2014

absolutely no whining for that price! the box is worth more then that all day long. some people don't see potential. judging by the first picture it is in a building with no insulation so moisture and heat are a problem.

if it is a KR box then its early to mid 90's (what ever the stamp says on the back) which puts it at around 20 years old +/- which is still in better condition then some cars of the same era.

$1500 is a steal. $3000-6000 is what I would expect it to have been listed for if I had not seen the price or known the condition

uniballer · Oct 17, 2014

You started this thread just to rub it in, didn't you????

motofool33 · Oct 17, 2014

i recently got a kr1000b very similar to your bottom box, nice unit im refurbishing mine also.

good luck!

Lbcwanabe · Oct 17, 2014

This thread has me wanting a box like this

bigcaddy · Oct 17, 2014

If you really want to make it shine, go find a place that sells detailing supplies. Pick up some compounds and 4" buffing pads and get polishing. I learned years ago when I started working on Cadillacs with subpar paint. I couldn't afford new paint, it would make the rest of the car look off, so I just polished up the old for nothing

You will be amazed at what some 1500 grit polish will do at high speeds

motofool33 · Oct 17, 2014

oh before i forget simple green or any of the stronger cleaners will actually pull the die out of the box, i sprayed mine with full concentrate of simple green and had red all over the new concrete that i had to scrub off with brake cleaner.

these old boxes are not painted but Dipped, and electro charged. from the snapon guy that lives down the street from me has a kr 70th aniversary edition and been selling since 1970's

Jarhead0408 · Oct 18, 2014

Dude, I'd say you did good!

Especially with the diesel parts thrown in.

I am kind of surprised that the PO let it get in such shape though. That's a damn nice box to let just sit like that.

Waggoner72 · Oct 18, 2014

uniballer said:
You started this thread just to rub it in, didn't you????

Shhhhhhhh! I also wanted to see what people had to say about the damage and any advice on cleaning it up.

Waggoner72 · Oct 18, 2014

bigcaddy said:
If you really want to make it shine, go find a place that sells detailing supplies. Pick up some compounds and 4" buffing pads and get polishing. I learned years ago when I started working on Cadillacs with subpar paint. I couldn't afford new paint, it would make the rest of the car look off, so I just polished up the old for nothing

You will be amazed at what some 1500 grit polish will do at high speeds

I just picked up some polishing compound and the buffing pads. I've never done it before but I'm going to give it a try. Any advice is appreciated! I will more than likely start a new thread looking for advice on cleaning it up.

Waggoner72 · Oct 18, 2014

motofool33 said:
oh before i forget simple green or any of the stronger cleaners will actually pull the die out of the box, i sprayed mine with full concentrate of simple green and had red all over the new concrete that i had to scrub off with brake cleaner.

these old boxes are not painted but Dipped, and electro charged. from the snapon guy that lives down the street from me has a kr 70th aniversary edition and been selling since 1970's

Do you have any advice on restoring it? I washed it with dawn dish soap and some of the red came out, just the oxidized layer.

Waggoner72 · Oct 18, 2014

Jarhead0408 said:
Dude, I'd say you did good!

Especially with the diesel parts thrown in.

I am kind of surprised that the PO let it get in such shape though. That's a damn nice box to let just sit like that.

The property had been sitting for 8+ years according to the seller. He purchased the entire place with all contents through the state from a tax sale. Previous people didn't pay their taxes on the property.

creativecars · Oct 18, 2014

Paint 101:

Paint= pigment, resins, solvents, & sometimes metallic particles

Solvents are used to get the paint to flow onto the surface then evaporate to leave the pigment and resins.
As paint cures it absorbs oxygen as it lets go of more solvents (oxidation process), if it is an air dry product that takes place over time(30 days), if it forced dry it happens more quickly.
After the paint has cured it will still absorb oxygen and start giving up pigment and resins if it is not protected. "Oxidation" Wax helps to seal out oxygen and protect the finish from uv breaking down resins.

To help the paint you are removing the "dead" oxidized paint with something. Rubbing/ polishing compound. Then protect it. Wax will work.

Problems caused by cleaners and solvents can penetrate the whole paint film, but many are only on the surface and can be made better with the same compounds mentioned earlier.

Waggoner72 · Oct 18, 2014

creativecars said:
Paint 101:

Paint= pigment, resins, solvents, & sometimes metallic particles

Solvents are used to get the paint to flow onto the surface then evaporate to leave the pigment and resins.

As paint cures it absorbs oxygen as it lets go of more solvents (oxidation process), if it is an air dry product that takes place over time(30 days), if it forced dry it happens more quickly.

After the paint has cured it will still absorb oxygen and start giving up pigment and resins if it is not protected. "Oxidation" Wax helps to seal out oxygen and protect the finish from uv breaking down resins.

To help the paint you are removing the "dead" oxidized paint with something. Rubbing/ polishing compound. Then protect it. Wax will work.

Problems caused by cleaners and solvents can penetrate the whole paint film, but many are only on the surface and can be made better with the same compounds mentioned earlier.

Thank you for the reply! I picked up some polishing compound yesterday and I'm going to give it a go.

creativecars · Oct 18, 2014

Waggoner72 said:
Thank you for the reply! I picked up some polishing compound yesterday and I'm going to give it a go.

Polishing compounds have finer abrasives than rubbing compounds. You can find several levels even within those categories. You will want to protect it after that.

For the rusted spots you will wand to grind out most of that area and treat the metal so the rust does not continue. Similar rules apply.

Rust= metal, oxygen, moisture
You must remove one of them to stop the rusting process.

BTW... nice find and purchase

Waggoner72 · Oct 18, 2014

creativecars said:
Polishing compounds have finer abrasives than rubbing compounds. You can find several levels even within those categories. You will want to protect it after that.

For the rusted spots you will wand to grind out most of that area and treat the metal so the rust does not continue. Similar rules apply.

Rust= metal, oxygen, moisture

You must remove one of them to stop the rusting process.

BTW... nice find and purchase

Thank you, do you have any place you would recommend to purchase polishing compounds or detail supplies? Or are o rielys products suitable?

CL Find: Did I do Good or take too big of a bite?

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