What are the good low cost small fuel line pulling pliers?

pauls_workshop · Nov 2, 2014

Hi guys, thought I'd ask the forum a question. I like to work on small engines and often have to replace small diameter fuel lines. What are the good options for low cost fuel line pulling pliers that work good but won't damage lines? I'm thinking of the ones that don't have the grip on the end of the pliers, for fuel line use, so they don't damage the lines and cut them as you clamp on them and pull them. Maybe 90 degree end, or 45 degree end, or similar. Not sure what length I would like, maybe different versions in different lengths. I'm looking for good value for function mainly, not pro use or super quality at high cost. Any COO is ok for this thread. Thanks! - Paul

wornoutoldman · Nov 2, 2014

I have these in MAC but you get the idea: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Long+Reach+Hose+Grip+Pliers

pauls_workshop · Nov 2, 2014

Yes, saw those already, but the smallest in this set is 3/8". The small engine lines can be like 1/8" or so dia. These would be too big. Also different lengths and different angles on the end of the needle nose would be useful. Have to be different good options out there! - Paul

theoldwizard1 · Nov 2, 2014

I have the HF fuel line pliers and they are great for the small engines I have worked on.

I also like the HF long reach 20° and 45° needle nose pliers, They are perfect for release spring clamps on small engines.

What small engine use fuel line that is 1/8" OD ? Model engines ?

MAD · Nov 2, 2014

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-47900-Hose-Remover-Plier/dp/B000MITKOM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414942208&sr=1-1&keywords=lisle+hose+removal+tool

pauls_workshop · Nov 2, 2014

That last one is kind of interesting. Wizard, small engines often have like 3/16 OD tubes or 1/4" ones. Smaller than lawn mower, like chainsaws, trimmers, blowers, etc. I like the idea of the OD bump on the end of the needle nose, but would want smaller size ends. 3/8" is too big. What else is out there or people use?

I already have the HF long reach 20/45 degree end set and have used them. They have grippy ends that can damage the small lines I'm talking about. Also, kind of bulky in size to get into the fuel tanks well. Length is more than needed also. Looking for better than those. - Paul

92integra · Nov 2, 2014

just grind down the "grippy" portion or tape them up............ thats pretty darn small.... i have a set from sunex and the smallest one is pretty darn small check those out.

pauls_workshop · Nov 2, 2014

92integra said:
just grind down the "grippy" portion or tape them up............ thats pretty darn small.... i have a set from sunex and the smallest one is pretty darn small check those out.

Grinding down the grippies is an option, but then they won't close all the way. The HF long ones are just bulky for this work. They are the best I've used so far though but too grippy. I'll check out sunex. Any links? - Paul

jmm · Nov 2, 2014

wornoutoldman said:
I have these in MAC but you get the idea: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Long+Reach+Hose+Grip+Pliers

I have these too...I think everybody with a good Mac dealer does; they come from a flier special that comes out once or twice a year with like 10 pliers for 100 bucks. The three that come in that set are some of the most handy specialty pliers I've ever owned. Don't know if they're small enough for you OP, but they definitely do the job.

Bobf · Nov 2, 2014

I use a old curved end hemostat to pull/replace the tiny lines used on my trimmers/blowers due to gasahol destruction.

92integra · Nov 2, 2014

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...Q4ktWveuEWmzzX0MVrUy6xoC-2Pw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

also if you are just replacing line i would just slice them with a razor blade length way's and they pull right off.

pauls_workshop · Nov 2, 2014

Bobf said:
I use a old curved end hemostat to pull/replace the tiny lines used on my trimmers/blowers due to gasahol destruction.

That might be a way to do it. Any links for ideas?

pauls_workshop · Nov 2, 2014

92integra said:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...Q4ktWveuEWmzzX0MVrUy6xoC-2Pw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

also if you are just replacing line i would just slice them with a razor blade length way's and they pull right off.

Yes, I like these made for pulling fuel lines but just too large a dia on the end, like the HF ones. I guess I could get a set and "cold forge" the end to be a tighter fit on the end. That might work if it doesn't break, but would take some effort. And I really would only want the smallest of the set, not the bigger ones. - Paul

EdT · Nov 2, 2014

+1 on the hemostats. I put shrink tubing over the grippy teeth sometimes. seems to work either way.

justme- · Nov 2, 2014

Depends on what small engines you're working on - lawnmowers usually have regular 1/4" id line which any of the above 1/2" pliers will work fine. In a pinch the Lisle style work also - depends on the circumstances which works better.
As far as chainsaws and trimmers and such there's nothing outside of hemostats or similar (I prefer Kelly forceps) since the line is so small, so stretchy, and usually so brittle. I use the forceps to put it on a ****** but normally if the unit has been in service at all the ethanol has rotted the line and pulling to remove it will more often tear it. A small forcep (5-6") can be used to lever the hose off prying the end as can a small flat blade screw driver.

pauls_workshop · Nov 2, 2014

justme- said:
Depends on what small engines you're working on - lawnmowers usually have regular 1/4" id line which any of the above 1/2" pliers will work fine. In a pinch the Lisle style work also - depends on the circumstances which works better.
As far as chainsaws and trimmers and such there's nothing outside of hemostats or similar (I prefer Kelly forceps) since the line is so small, so stretchy, and usually so brittle. I use the forceps to put it on a ****** but normally if the unit has been in service at all the ethanol has rotted the line and pulling to remove it will more often tear it. A small forcep (5-6") can be used to lever the hose off prying the end as can a small flat blade screw driver.

Some of the lines don't have ******* at the tank but go through the tank and must also seal on the OD. So the main difficulty isn't getting the old lines off but getting the new line back in again without damage. Also, you have to pull it into the tank from the outside so need a long set of pliers to do that, but one that won't damage the OD. Just haven't found the perfect tool for this. I might think about getting some close and then rolling my own from it unless I find one that would work. I really thought on GJ someone would offer the perfect tool for this! Looks like I at least partially stumped everyone on these small lines! - Paul

efb16acrx · Nov 2, 2014

I've never had a problem tearing the lines in the tank. I usually used double-x pliers or double x hemostats. And even if you do screw up the end, who cares, pull it through further and cut 2 inches off of it. And get some of stihls press fluid.

justme- · Nov 3, 2014

pauls_workshop said:
Some of the lines don't have ******* at the tank but go through the tank and must also seal on the OD. So the main difficulty isn't getting the old lines off but getting the new line back in again without damage. Also, you have to pull it into the tank from the outside so need a long set of pliers to do that, but one that won't damage the OD. Just haven't found the perfect tool for this. I might think about getting some close and then rolling my own from it unless I find one that would work. I really thought on GJ someone would offer the perfect tool for this! Looks like I at least partially stumped everyone on these small lines! - Paul

10" Kelly Forceps are the standard I see all the other pros using - in my shop, neighboring shops, youtube, etc. Bluepoint makes a set...got mine from ebay much much cheaper. The through tank pull on individual hoses needs to be snug for the hose to seal than tank, agreed, these regular pliers and regular style/size needle nose pliers won't fit in between the housing and tank in any Husky I've worked on... just sayin. The forceps make it a 5 minute job rather than half disassembling the saw like I used to - somewhere between 15-30 minutes. I pull from in the tank out - use the forceps to push the pointed end up and then switch to pull from the outside since 90% of the line is in the tank it makes less to pull through. Plus you have to cut the point off anyway (assuming you're using factory replacement line/part not a coil of bulk which I recommend since the most common replacement bulk - oregon - is not the correct OD to seal the tank.)

pauls_workshop · Nov 3, 2014

Thanks Justme, I'll check those out too. Yes, you understand the dilemma very well! And thanks to all the contributers as well - lots of ideas to consider next. - Paul

TedF13 · Nov 3, 2014

EdT said:
+1 on the hemostats. I put shrink tubing over the grippy teeth sometimes. seems to work either way.

Bobf said:
I use a old curved end hemostat to pull/replace the tiny lines used on my trimmers/blowers due to gasahol destruction.

justme- said:
10" Kelly Forceps are the standard I see all the other pros using - in my shop, neighboring shops, youtube, etc.....

I also thought of hemostats and forceps. They are great for fine/detail work. Here is a link with pictures and names of various types:

http://www.surgical-instrument-pictures.com/instrument-index.html

In addition to the Kelly Forceps (mentioned above) the Allis and Babcocks look like they could be useful. Or even the Army/Navy to get in behind the hose end.
You can get them on EBAY cheap (also larger flea markets usually have one or two people selling them). The simple ones come in LOTS of sizes:

http://www.pjtool.com/hemostats.aspx

You don't need surgical quality (they run into the few hundred bucks). Like these:

http://www.orsupply.com/product/Mar...Instruments/872/category/Surgical-Forceps/897

Hope this helps.

justme- · Nov 3, 2014

The ones I bought are ebay item 181201396155 - 1 ea 8" and 10" straight Kelly. I also keep a pair of 6" and 5" straight and curved around. I found the Allis type better for tapes and ribbons, (yes I have a pair) and get the impression they will possibly damage the tube, and definitely don't have the jaw area to grab as securely as Kelly style. Going to have to look into Babcock style tho.

SantaAna12 · Nov 3, 2014

Looking at the Kelly clamps on fleabay.

Are there different quality hemostats???

Some of the older looking ones are more. Anyone know if the older are better?

EdT · Nov 3, 2014

For purposes of pulling fuel line I'm pretty sure any thing you find that's not broken will work fine. I have them all the way from found rusty ones to some gold plated German ones I got at a facility close out. Almost all of them come from Pakistan for some reason. I got a bunch of them at a flea market years ago from a guy who had a bushel of them. $2 each. I asked where they came from and he said that in the ER every suture kit has one or two in it and when they're done sewing they get pitched whether they were used or not. He said the hospital where he gets them takes them all and autoclaves them and sells them in bulk for next to nothing. Works for me and I haven't come down with the plague yet.

TedF13 · Nov 4, 2014

justme- said:
The ones I bought are ebay item 181201396155 - 1 ea 8" and 10" straight Kelly. I also keep a pair of 6" and 5" straight and curved around. I found the Allis type better for tapes and ribbons, (yes I have a pair) and get the impression they will possibly damage the tube, and definitely don't have the jaw area to grab as securely as Kelly style. Going to have to look into Babcock style tho.

I see what you mean about the jaw area. I was thinking you could wedge the tip of the Allis just beyond the end of the hose and pull out. Basically, the tip of the Allis would pinch onto the connector not the line. Not sure if I'm describing this right.

SantaAna12 said:
Looking at the Kelly clamps on fleabay.

Are there different quality hemostats???

Some of the older looking ones are more. Anyone know if the older are better?

Like I said, the price range runs into the hundreds, but for this kind of application, a few bucks (i.e. less than $10) is plenty. As long as they aren't flimsy. The Englishtown Auction (its a flea market) here in NJ has at least 3 guys selling these and other medical stuff (scissors, tweezers etc.). I'd say 95% are made in Pakistan or India. They are just fine, but its worth it to go through a few to find ones that have the right feel for you, e.g. some are stiff, some are loose.

As Justme- and others suggested the Kelly's are probably the best thing to try first. They're the simplest and most versatile. I'm sure the OP could find other uses for them if it doesn't work out for this purpose.

The one tool that really interested me was the Weitlaner Retractor. Something like that could work great if it closed instead of retracted and the prong curved inward. (I saw a video of HOW ITS MADE) the prongs interweave (or is it interleave?), but then again their size probably makes them useless for getting into tight places.

This is the video explains it better between 0:40 and 1:30 min. shows what I mean.

jeremy v · Nov 4, 2014

I also use straight and curved hemostats of various sizes and they work very well. After purchasing them, I used my Dremel and dulled the sharp tooth edges and beveled the edges of the jaws so they wouldn't cut into the hoses when gripping tightly. Also, keep an eye out because there are hemostats with jaw teeth that run in different directions. I don't remember all the different specific names for them, but some are good for pulling parallel to the length of the hemostat and some are designed for gripping and pulling perpendicular to the length of the hemostat. Ideally it is nice to have both, but I have found that hemostats with cross hatched jaw teeth (pretty good for all directions of pull) or else with jaw teeth that run the length of the jaws (grip when pulling perpendicular) are the most useful for small engine hoses.

Also, they might be a little out of the OP's price range, but I also use Knipex retaining ring pliers in straight, 45 degree, and 90 degree orientation for pulling and installing small hoses. They can get into really tight areas. Since they are round nosed pliers they also grip well without damaging anything. The smaller Tygon type hoses also fit almost perfectly in the crook created by the machining of the retaining ring tips. It makes it easy to pinch and hold a hose right at the end of the plier without it moving around on you.

Aircraft skin spoons are very strong and also very thin at the ends. If they are kept cool so they don't lose temper they can be thinned and ground into all sorts of shapes at the end in order to help with popping off/breaking loose stuck small hoses. They work much better than something like the Lisle hose pliers (linked to earlier) for small engine related tasks.

The Knipex pliers shown in the pictures are mine, but I don't have a picture of my skin spoons so I just posted a couple pictures taken from Goodle Images.

justme- · Nov 4, 2014

My older Hemos are US made Stainless, my newer are india and Pakistan. Quality has improved in those countries from 10 years ago. As long as the tool works and has smooth edges so you don't cut yourself or the hose (as mentioned - round burrs on the jaws if present) all it well - age is not a factor. the listing I put above is under $7 for two, stainless, and decent finnish. Sharp teeth but smooth edged. Not US or OR quality (some imperfections in the tool which so it can't be OR grade) but nothing wrong for shop use, hobby use, etc.

The Allis pair I have won't fit a jaw in the tank orifice, it's too wide and there's not enough grip area in the jaw to force a line out of the tank from inside with them. I think they were designed for pulling sheet type structures - skin folds or layers.
The Weitlaner Retractor is made for opening a body cavity - retractors are for holding something back - skin, organs, tissue.

pauls_workshop · Nov 4, 2014

I'm liking all the new ideas here guys - much to consider! Appreciated! - Paul

Delray · Nov 4, 2014

While I have most of the dedicated hose pliers I usually grab my E-Z Red kiwi type. Both Amazon and Tooltopia have them.

What are the good low cost small fuel line pulling pliers?

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