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Porcelain Tile in the Man Cave

Track t-4

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With advice and support from some on this site I built a second garage two years ago to support my retirement hobby of playing with cars. The concrete floor has been covered with tarps since built to protect it while I decided on the final floor finish. With the exception of one automatic trans spill it has remained clean. This website has been a terrific source of information on the different types of flooring. I've observed and researched many types of flooring such as epoxy, polishing, snap plastic tiles, etc. and finally decided to go with porcelain tile. I have previously done some tile work in the foyer and mudroom of the house that turned out well so I have some experience but the size of this project is daunting for me.

In January of this year I started checking around to find porcelain tile to do the job. My goal was to get 12” x 12”, throughbody, rectified edges, PEI-5 and a dark color. While I was never able to get the super cheap deals others on this site have found, I did finally find tile. The tiles I settled on are porcelain, 12” x 24”, throughbody, rectified edges, PEI-5 but lighter than I was originally thinking. I figure the lighter color will require a little more upkeep but will make the garage brighter. I purchased 627 sq ft of the tile at $1.50/sq ft. The story was the tile store had purchased a lot of this tile from Italy but upon receiving it found an almost unnoticeable flaw in the design, was not able to get a settlement from the company they purchased it from, so they were stuck with it. I've done some testing with friends – laid the tile down in good light and asked them to find the flaw – they always could not find it until I pointed it out. The going price for the tile without the flaw was considerably more expensive so I was comfortable with the deal.

The garage is 22' x 28' and has turned out to be a great space for my purposes with enough room for three cars and a second floor with a 6' ceiling and plenty of storage. I'm anxious to finish the floor so I can finally install a 4-post lift and make the space less crowded and more workable. There are a couple of cracks in the concrete that I will have to deal with but they are hairline and appear to be stable. The first step will be deciding all the details before starting – floor preparation, crack isolation, pattern, gap size, grout color, grout type, thinset type, trowel size and threshold...anything else? :dunno:

So there is the background on this project. I'll follow-up with a few photos. There are always other home projects competing for my time so progress might be slow but I'll attempt to keep it moving along. :thumbup:
 
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Track t-4

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Here's a photo of the tile, it's made by Geotech. Not the the best photo, it's actually a beige color and you can't see the flaw here:

 
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Track t-4

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First up is deciding the threshold/ramp. Have decided to use the wider Schluter®-RENO-RAMP/-K to give a smoother transition from the concrete lip of the entrance to the tile. The tile is 3/8" thick. Which is a better groove for the trowel - 1/4" or 1/2"? Based on this I'll order the ramp.

Next up we're going to pull out the cars and look under the tarps to survey the condition of the floors. I recall seeing a couple of cracks so want to decide how much crack isolation material is needed. Thinking about using Red Guard from Home Depot. If so, I'm thinking first coat will be worked into the cracks and a second wider coat to finish it off. Is this product and application sufficient?
 

bswoody

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Track t-4,

Red Guard should be fine, is there any cracks presents now, what about in the expansion joints, is there cracks starting there. What is your weather like in the winter
 

bswoody

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this is the Thin-set i'm using in the garage, it's more expensive than the others but i have used it before on other projects and it's good stuff.

http://www.custombuildingproducts.c...porcelain-tile-fortified-thin-set-mortar.aspx

And this is the Grout I'm using by the same company, good stuff as well

http://www.custombuildingproducts.c...t-grout/polyblend/polyblend-sanded-grout.aspx

ever six feet in my garage tile i use this for the expansion joints

http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/grout-materials/caulk/commercial-silicone-caulk.aspx

Hope this helps
 

Rod N

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That's going to look great.
My garage is almost the same size and I used 12" x 24' too.
I went with 1/4" x 1/4" trowel as that was what my porcelain supplier suggested. I had no problems with voids but back buttering added to it.
 
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Track t-4

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Thanks everyone for your feedback.

Yesterday we emptied the garage and pulled up the tarps. Only found two small cracks in the floor about 5' long, one in the middle of the entrance and one about the middle of the outside wall. There are no expansion joints in the floor. So not too bad for a four-old garage (I mistakenly said two years above, the wife corrected me.

About a year ago I had a bad trans fluid leak that came through the tarps and decided to clean that up. Scrubbed in some driveway degreaser and power washed the floor. That did the job so I got rid of the tarps and put pans under the cars just in case...the floor looks good.

Today I picked up a gallon of Red Guard crack isolation at Home Depot (a little expensive at $46+ and more than I need - a quart would be nice). Also ordered the wider Schluter Reno-ramp/K (www.schluter.com/1_2_reno_ramp.aspx) Delivery of the ramp is expected in 6 days. While I'm waiting I plan to seal any slight gaps around the floor where it meets the wall and paint the 6 inches of concrete block that is between the drywall and the floor.

Now deciding between a 1/8" and 3/16" grout gap.
 

Rod N

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I went with a stainless ramp because I have snowmobiles. Your aluminum will be fine if you are not driving in with 8 inch carbides. Lol
I wanted to go with 1/8" gaps and my tile guy laughed and said "you are not that good of a tiler" lol I went with 3/16"
 

vette66bob

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The new garage looks like a very nice space, I am looking forward to seeing the results.
I am on the fence myself as to the type of flooring to use.
 

Dakota00

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Thinking about using Red Guard from Home Depot. If so, I'm thinking first coat will be worked into the cracks and a second wider coat to finish it off. Is this product and application sufficient?

Clean and then fill the crack with thinset. After apply the Red Guard 1-2 coats about 2ft off the crack on either side.
 
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Track t-4

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Thanks Dakota00. Here are the cracks, not too bad:





And a shot of the garage before pulling the tarps, a liittle crowded with three cars:

 
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Track t-4

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Started applying the Red Guard to the cracks today. It goes on bright pink and turns bright red when it dries. Hard to believe the thinset/tile sticks to this stuff.

Dakota00 - Do you think 1 foot on either side of the crack will be sufficient or is the 2 feet necessary?
 

jhelrey

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Red Guard is def. interesting. Smells like ****, goes on like pink yogurt, but dries red. Tile sticks well to it! But it is not cheap!
 

OJ Bartley

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Now deciding between a 1/8" and 3/16" grout gap.

I went with 3/16 as well. I'm no pro, and I felt comfortable with it. Had a few areas where just a little bit of play was useful, and going a tiny bit +/- from 3/16 doesn't draw attention. If your tiles are rectified and you are fairly sure of yourself, 1/8 shouldn't be TOO hard to maintain (I think?).

Oh, and I love my Reno Ramp, hopefully you will too. I think it gives a really nice finished look.
 
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Track t-4

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Received the two 8' 2-1/2" wide Reno-K ramps today - free shipping by Home Depot. Also carried 140 tiles into the garage and stacked them. The tiles were stored outside since buying them in January and they got wet while stored under a tarp. The weather is getting colder - I was concerned about them freezing together and being difficult to get into the garage. Also wanted to get them acclimated in the heated garage before starting to lay them.

My plan for working around the cars:
I moved one of the cars into the enclosed trailer. I want to keep the other two in the garage as long as possible so I pushed them as far forward as I could. My plan is to start laying tile starting at the garage door and up as close as possible to the rear of the cars and then grout that area (about 11 feet). Then temporarily install a ramp, back up the cars onto the tile and finish the rest of the garage. At least this should tell me how my tile work is doing before finishing the job (!). The question is when can I drive the cars on the tile - how long must the thin-set and grout be in place before I can drive on it?
 

Dakota00

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The question is when can I drive the cars on the tile - how long must the thin-set and grout be in place before I can drive on it?

If the garage is kept at a normal room temp, let the tiles set for at least 4 days before driving on them.
As for grouting wait a couple of days, before parking the cars in the garage. It's just a precautions in case the tires are dirty or if they have pebbles stuck in the treads.
 

OJ Bartley

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t-4, that plan sounds workable, but you'll have the same problems I had. Mostly just the annoyance of shuffling stuff back and forth and waiting until everything has cured before starting the next section. Do make sure you wait long enough, especially in the cold weather. You don't want to rush and end up screwing up all of your hard work! Go slowly and carefully and you should be OK.
 
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Track t-4

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OJ,

You are correct, alot of stuff to shuffle around to get it done. We already moved some things to the basement and the attic but still have toolboxes, cabinets, display case, long workbench, etc. that are difficult to stash somewhere else. It'll be a chess match. The wait in between shouldn't be too bad since there is always something interrupting progress on these projects. :willy_nil I'm anxious to get started but might be tough to get moving through the holidays. xmas

Plan to do some layout tomorrow. Don't plan to overlap the tiles but will run in straight lines front to back. It's looking like I might be about 4" short of a full tile on one side of the garage. So I'm thinking about laying a full tile on one side and just cutting the 4" inches off the tiles along the opposite wall to save cutting. Shouldn't be noticeable with a 24" long tile plus I normally have alot of things along that wall - (cabinets, toolboxes, etc.)
 

Dakota00

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^^^ Floor would look pretty sweet laid brick pattern. OR...

1/3 offset pattern.

70819d1368456497-few-qs-tiling-bathroom-ditra-layout-tile-kerdi-band-100_1164.jpg
 
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Track t-4

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Dakota - Thanks for the suggestions but I didn't want to get into a fancy pattern, just running them straight front to back. (I do like the tiles in your photo though).

Stopped by Home Depot today and checked out the Flexbond and am going to use that for the mortar. They have a couple $ off per bag if you bulk buy 10 or more at a time so picking that up this weekend. They also sell it in gray or white, white costs a #2 more per bag but suspect that is the better choice for my light beige tiles.

I am thinking of going with a 1/4" trowel rather than 1//2" even though the 1/2" is suggested for 12'x24" tiles. My reasoning is that the 1/4" will have less chance of voids and require less Flexbond. Anything drastically wrong with that logic?
 

Dakota00

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White thinset is used for white marble and light colored stone where the grey thinset color would bleed through to the front. For ceramic and porcelain tiles use gray!

You'll encounter more problems and waste more time trying to get the floor flat, plus there's better chances of having voids with a 1/4" trowel. All this to try and save $75-$100 in thinset, definitely not worth it! Use a 1/2" trowel, do it right!
 

OJ Bartley

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Just another quick lesson that I learned the hard way... Odds are your garage isn't perfectly square, so the tiles that line up perfectly where you start will likely start to either increase the gap to the wall or run right into it. I think it will look better if you start out by splitting the difference and cut about 2" (or whatever is needed) off each side. You'll have more cuts, but straight cuts are a breeze with a snap cutter, and you'll be much happier when you don't end up with weird slivers to fill in later. Ask me how I learned that.

The best way to check is to do a dry run layout with a full front row, and then continue your centre tile front to back, and run a cross row the full width through the middle. That should tell you how far out of square you are. I wish I had listened to the pros and done that.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
 
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Track t-4

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Dakota and OJ - Thanks for the feedback. Looks like I'm going with a 1/2" trowel and laying out the tiles in advance....want to do this thing right the first time.

Today I picked up 10 50-pound bags of Flexbond gray mortar at Home Depot. HD offers a bulk price if you buy 10 bags or more, saved me about $3 a bag. Also bought a 1/2" trowel and an extra bucket.

Too many side projects in prep for the Christmas holiday slowing this down, going to have to try to keep things moving along.
 
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Track t-4

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I followed OJ's suggestion today and temporarily laid "a dry run layout with full front row, and then continue your centre tile front to back, and run a cross row the full width through the middle."

I started at the garage door with the Reno ramp and a first run of tile with 3/16" spacers. (I didn't want the tile showing in front of the door so started right at the inside edge of the door with plans to paint the shelf of concrete in front of the door with the same color as the foundation). Then ran a row of tile down the center of the floor to a spot near the back wall. Then another row at the end of and perpendicular to the center row and parallel to the front row. What I found was this (looking into the garage from the door):
The row of tile by the door - the full tile on the left is 19" from the wall and the full tile on the right is 1/2" inch from the wall. .
The row in the back of the garage - the full tile on the left is 16-1/2" from the wall and the full tile on the right is 2-3/8" from the wall.

What this exercise showed me is the garage is not square and I need to shift the tiles towards the right in order to avoid small pieces along the right wall. I had hoped to run tile butted along one wall and then only have to cut tiles along the opposite wall but realize will have to cut tiles along both the left and right walls. Glad I followed this exercise before starting to permanently lay tile. Thanks for the suggestion, OJ.
 
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OJ Bartley

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Glad the tip helped, t-4. I could have saved myself some trouble if I had done it that way.

I had to laugh a bit at this:

...and an extra bucket.

Just thinking about how many buckets I went through between thinset and grout, and just not having the energy left to clean them at the end of the night. I must have scrapped at least 5 or 6.
 

Dakota00

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I just wanted to add, don't be afraid to snap a few caulk lines once you determine your layout and have squared up your floor. This way you'll have reference lines to guide you, when the time comes to start laying.
 

Big Barn

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I'm sure the floor is going to look great, but I blanked out when I saw the Porsche! Beautiful. My plan is to have something like that in my garage.
 

Angelfire

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Hey Dakota,
I've tried snapping string lines in the past and found they weren't very useful. As I was working away, I continually covered them up with thinset so couldn't see them to align the tiles. So a quick question (and I apologize to the OP for hijacking the thread)....do you lay the thinset close the chalk line and just from experience know how close to burn the thinset in or is there some other recommendation? I've also heard to preserve chalk lines is to spray them with a lacquer/poly/etc... (I actually think I've heard of using hair spray too but can't be sure....***** to get old!).

My solution on my last project was to use a laser and that helped but if I could figure out how to not cover up my thinset and still ensuring 100% thinset coverage, I think I'd prefer to go that route.
Cheers.
 
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Track t-4

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Angelfire,

I've found the same thing with the chalk line but I believe the trick is to use a long straight edge. That way you can line up the tiles with the chalk line that's still visible farther back. That's what I've done before but am curious to see what the experts suggest.
 

Shea

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I've found the same thing with the chalk line but I believe the trick is to use a long straight edge. That way you can line up the tiles with the chalk line that's still visible farther back. That's what I've done before but am curious to see what the experts suggest.

I'm not an expert tile setter, but I've done a few floors this way. It worked great for me!
 

Lt1cobra

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Angelfire,



I've found the same thing with the chalk line but I believe the trick is to use a long straight edge. That way you can line up the tiles with the chalk line that's still visible farther back. That's what I've done before but am curious to see what the experts suggest.

I've only tiled smaller areas in my house but I'll put down tile in the garage later on. What if I put down the chalk line at an offset, say 5-10 inches. That way I should be able to messure from the line without covering it up?
 
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