Making a battery adapter - Need a dead Ryobi pack

rslaback · Jan 13, 2015

Ever since I won a 4 tool combo kit from Ridgid that has been my main tool brand. They aren't the same quality as the tools I used with my father growing up in construction but with my more limited use they no longer need to be.

I've always wanted to try out a battery powered caulk gun. Ridgid made one back in the day but they are now discontinued. Every now and then one will pop up on eBay in either incredibly nasty condition for stupid money or in like new condition for insane money. That said, I have seen a lot of good reviews on the Ryobi line of tools and particularly the $40 caulk gun they offer.

I've come to the conclusion that it is time to build a battery adapter. I've already ordered the necessary battery connectors from Ridgid with the plan to just adapt the tool. But now that I think about it some more I'm thinking it might be better to just find a junk Ryobi One+ battery and turn that into an adapter to my Ridgid 18v packs. By doing that I would have the ability to purchase any bare tool from Ryobi or Ridgid to use with my existing packs and chargers.

I'm thinking that the best way to source a dead Ryobi pack is probably the battery recycling bin at Home Depot. I recently moved so now that would mean a 50 mile drive instead of a 3 block detour. Any other suggestions?

pauls_workshop · Jan 13, 2015

Hi the adaptor is a great idea! I did one of these a while back here adapting the ryobi batteries to fit in B&D 18v tools. Please be sure to post a "how to" and take pictures as you make it, because I want one of these too sometime. HD battery recycler box is your best source, but someone surely has an old one they might ship to you on GJ. - Paul

lonesouth · Jan 13, 2015

this thread reminds me I want to make a battery adapter for my ridgid batteries to power lights on my jog stroller. anyone have a dead ridgid tool they wouldn't mind cutting the bottom off of, I would really appreciate it.

rslaback · Jan 13, 2015

If you don't find anyone who wants to hack off a broken tool for you I can point you to a supplier for the battery connector. It is actually off a worklight and has the battery connector and switch (which might also be worth having in your application). I believe the cost was $2.67 each plus shipping. The shipping was the same for me for 1-5 units so naturally I bought 5.

aosty · Jan 13, 2015

If you know someone with a 3D printer...
http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ryobi+battery&sa=

kctyphoon · Jan 13, 2015

what somebody REALLY needs to make - is an adapter to let people use the new dewalt 20v max slide packs with the old 18v stick pack tools... who ever decides to make that will have alot of customers..

rslaback · Jan 13, 2015

aosty said:
If you know someone with a 3D printer...
http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ryobi+battery&sa=

Until I quit my job at the end of last school year, I was that guy. That said, it looks like most of those are ways of adapting tools to use specific packs or adapting tools to use a Ryobi pack. I want to make an adapter that can snap into any Ryobi pack and snap onto any Ridgid pack.

kctyphoon said:
what somebody REALLY needs to make - is an adapter to let people use the new dewalt 20v max slide packs with the old 18v stick pack tools... who ever decides to make that will have alot of customers..

I think I read somewhere that a guy actually did make that and DeWalt threatened to sue him. They obviously wouldn't have any case but to a single guy with a 3d printer and no money to pay a corporate lawyer the strength of the case really doesn't matter.

deaddawg58 · Jan 13, 2015

Would the yellow battery packs work for what you would need?

rslaback · Jan 13, 2015

deaddawg58 said:
Would the yellow battery packs work for what you would need?

I believe so. The old yellows and the new green and gray have the same business end I believe.

deaddawg58 · Jan 13, 2015

I have a couple dead yellow ones. do you need the whole thing complete or just part of them. Because I think it would be easier to ship without the batteries in them.

rslaback · Jan 13, 2015

deaddawg58 said:
I have a couple dead yellow ones. do you need the whole thing complete or just part of them. Because I think it would be easier to ship without the batteries in them.

I wouldn't need the cells themselves but would need the case and the electrical connectors on the top battery. You can see them in this stolen pic.

deaddawg58 · Jan 13, 2015

Do to work schedule I can mail them out to you on friday, would 3 of them be good for you? If so PM me your info and I will send them friday no charge :beer:

pauls_workshop · Jan 13, 2015

Along these same lines, if anyone has an old dead Milwaukee 18v pack from like 2002 era, I need a dead one. I got a nice Milwaukee cordless drill without a pack. Want to make a converter to use my Ryobi in that guy! But I need a doner dead Milwaukee sliding horizontal type 18v pack. - Paul

rslaback · Jan 14, 2015

kctyphoon said:
what somebody REALLY needs to make - is an adapter to let people use the new dewalt 20v max slide packs with the old 18v stick pack tools... who ever decides to make that will have alot of customers..

I've been thinking about this. With the DCB090 and an old 18v pack it should be pretty easy to make your own adapter. The DCB090 is only $25 shipped on eBay.

Fender1325 · Jan 14, 2015

I dont mean to shoot down the project but a battery powered caulk gun just sounds entirely unneccessary. Im a painter and it sounds like added weight (reaching far off the ladder), lack of caulk rate control (sometimes you want more to come out than others), plus its not like youre caulking 30 feet at a time, you caulk 4-5 feet, wipe it with a wet finger and move on. Its no wonder theyre discontinued.

rslaback · Jan 14, 2015

Fender1325 said:
I dont mean to shoot down the project but a battery powered caulk gun just sounds entirely unneccessary. Im a painter and it sounds like added weight (reaching far off the ladder), lack of caulk rate control (sometimes you want more to come out than others), plus its not like youre caulking 30 feet at a time, you caulk 4-5 feet, wipe it with a wet finger and move on. Its no wonder theyre discontinued.

Ever use construction adhesive on sheathing? Cordless caulk guns are a lot like cordless grease guns; not by any means are they necessary, but they sure are nice.

kctyphoon · Jan 14, 2015

yea, i use to work for a marble and granite company building those huge mausoleums before i started my career, and i would have to spend weeks caulking joints between stones we hung.. i dont think a battery powered gun would be good for that cause you loose the finesse, (although i woulda liked to try it) but for big less delicate work i definitely see an advantage to haveing one of these, especially with the large tube and bigger gun.

Fender1325 · Jan 14, 2015

rslaback said:
Ever use construction adhesive on sheathing? Cordless caulk guns are a lot like cordless grease guns; not by any means are they necessary, but they sure are nice.

I have not. I could see perhaps in that scenario - especially in some kind of production setting. Using liquid nails or something.

toplessHO · Jan 14, 2015

I have an orange and black 18 v if you need it.
Im trying to do the same thing with making an adapter for using Rigid Li-ion packs in my 18v DeWalt Ni Cad tools. I need the tool end of a Rigid to make it work Anyone have a broken Rigid drill?

deaddawg58 · Jan 16, 2015

Sent you a PM with tracking info, let me know if you received it thanks

rslaback · Jan 22, 2015

I will plan to do a full build thread sometime in the near future but for anyone who is following the thread here is a sneak preview.

03protege · Feb 5, 2015

This is a great idea, I have been thinking about doing something similar for awhile now myself.

I want the M18 as my primary tool set (very nice quality cordless drills and wide array of tools available) but for some of the lesser used tools Ryobi may be the way to go, but who wants two sets of batteries to deal with?

Ryobi has some cordless tools that look very interesting:

$30 Calk gun ($200 Milwaukee)
$25 Jigsaw ($130 Milwaukee)
$20 Shop Light ($50+ Milwaukee)
$30-40 Sanders (No comparable??)
$40 Angle Grinder ($120 Milwaukee)
$50 Recip Saw ($110 Milwaukee)
$60 Circular Saw ($120 Milwaukee)
$70 Planar (No comparable??)
Several cordless staplers/nailers (No comparable??)

Now I highly doubt most of the above come close to Milwaukee's performance or durability but depending on what you are doing that is ok. A lesser tool in my hand is always better than a superior tool that I cannot afford.

Bookworm · Feb 5, 2015

I have several of those "interesting" Ryobi tools.
The $50 recip saw I use the **** out of. Use it as a small pruning saw, cutting 6" limbs easily. I've used it for years, and use it heavily. No complaints. If it breaks, I'll purchase another. My (much) better half doesn't use a chain-saw, bit she has no problem with the recip saw. Likewise, when up on a ladder, that recip saw is easier to wrangle than an 18" chain-saw.
The circular saw and jigsaw I use also. Homeowner-type stuff, but I like them alot.

afbrian13 · Feb 5, 2015

+1 protege on the one+ adapter! I bought my m18 drills because they are by far better than the ryobi's, but it would be cool to use other tools.

Since the one+ inserts and the m18 slides I dont think it would be hard at all. Take apart a busted ryobi pack top and wire it to the slide from a broke m18 charger. I may need to try this....

afbrian13 · Feb 5, 2015

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ANLg0SVdFbIH6bakA&sig2=gotMgxRthNSOF85sWdnSyg

Heres a link to a 3d printed adapter. I love this idea!

03protege · Feb 6, 2015

UPS now offers 3d printing services i think i may send them the file and get a quote.

mrvm · Feb 6, 2015

rslaback said:
I will plan to do a full build thread sometime in the near future but for anyone who is following the thread here is a sneak preview.

Thanks, I like the battery adapter plate idea!! Much nicer than frankensteining and cutting/glue two dissimilar battery housings together permanently. Only the lowly Ryobi battery is changed. I got two DOA Ryobi compact batteries that are just waiting for a similar adapter plate for nearly any slider battery. I will use the compact Ryobi battery since its much smaller and dead anyway.

mrvm · Feb 6, 2015

FYI: this is a fantastic project to combine different brands of battery for the Ryobi power tools but keep in mind the incredible price for 2 Ryobi 4 Ah batteries is now $50 as long as supplies last

rslaback · Feb 6, 2015

mrvm said:
FYI: this is a fantastic project to combine different brands of battery for the Ryobi power tools but keep in mind the incredible price for 2 Ryobi 4 Ah batteries is now $50 as long as supplies last

True. It is much more of project if you want to consolidate battery types. If you are fine with having multiple pack types floating around, just power the Ryobi stuff with the Ryobi packs.

rslaback · Feb 6, 2015

afbrian13 said:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ANLg0SVdFbIH6bakA&sig2=gotMgxRthNSOF85sWdnSyg

Heres a link to a 3d printed adapter. I love this idea!

Any idea what the manufacturer is for those tools (and the file?). Obviously they would all be different contact types to fit the tool. In my previous life as a tech ed teacher I had a 3D printer in my room. It is on projects like this that I really miss it.

rslaback · Feb 6, 2015

mrvm said:
Thanks, I like the battery adapter plate idea!! Much nicer than frankensteining and cutting/glue two dissimilar battery housings together permanently. Only the lowly Ryobi battery is changed. I got two DOA Ryobi compact batteries that are just waiting for a similar adapter plate for nearly any slider battery. I will use the compact Ryobi battery since its much smaller and dead anyway.

I would concur to use the smaller pack if you have it. I had to beg a pack off so I couldn't be choosy. I thought about cutting down the pack I had but I wouldn't have gained much. Ideally I'd like to make basically a flat adapter that would only stick out from the Ryobi tool a 1/2" or so but to do that I would need to re-engineer the latches that hold the pack in. From Ryobi they stick down about an inch already and the spring on the inside goes all the way to the bottom of the pack. I'm not sure what the spring looks like in the compact lithium packs but it would be interesting to find out.

rslaback · Feb 7, 2015

rocket1420 said:
When you take apart the Ryobi pack, it has three wires. I took apart an M18 work light. Two wires. I have no idea what to do with the blue wire in the Ryobi pack. Otherwise this would be pretty simple.

The 3rd wire is for the thermal switch. It tells the charger to stop charging if the battery pack gets too hot. You can just snip it. You don't need it for an adapter.

rslaback · Feb 8, 2015

What is the pcb between the Ryobi male and the Milwaukee female?

rslaback · Feb 8, 2015

Maybe we need to take a couple of steps back. You are trying to run a Ryobi tool with a Milwaukee pack, correct?

rslaback · Feb 8, 2015

Here's my guess then. I think the pcb is a voltage regulator. If the Milwaukee was an LED worklight, the internal circuitry is likely only 5v. Inside the worklight, circuitry would exist that would decrease the battery voltage down as LED's don't run on 18v power. If that is the case, that would make sense then why the laser would work (it too is low power) but not the actual motor. Grab a multimeter and do a voltage test on the two terminals of the ryobi male and see what you have for voltage.

rslaback · Feb 8, 2015

rocket1420 said:
I was sure that you were right. But everything shows 20.6 volts, from the battery to the terminals on the Ryobi plug.

Does the saw jump at all when you pull the trigger? Is it possible the pcb has a circuit breaker built into it and trips when the current gets above light current? Can you get a better picture of the pcb? Are you brave enough to bypass it?

mrvm · Feb 8, 2015

Subscribed and reading with great interest and want you to succeed! New M18 battery might cost more than new Ryobi saw

rslaback · Feb 8, 2015

rocket1420 said:
So yeah, I'm retarded. Just hot wire the damn thing. Here's some pics of my adapter. Not quite finished yet. I still either need to make the hole into the Ryobi battery holder bigger to snug up the Milwaukee slider, or add a spacer and screw it together and call it good. Or I'm certainly up for other ideas.

http://s1146.photobucket.com/user/michael_gleason2/library/Mobile Uploads/Ryobi Milwaukee Adapter

I'd probably cut the hole open larger and more oblong to fit the curve of the top of the light. It would likely open almost the whole bottom but it would be much more stable. Then use JB weld from the inside of the Ryobi pack to glue the two together.

On another note, how do you like the Ryobi 18v miter saw? I'm considering one.

rslaback · Feb 8, 2015

rocket1420 said:
So yeah, I'm retarded. Just hot wire the damn thing. Here's some pics of my adapter. Not quite finished yet. I still either need to make the hole into the Ryobi battery holder bigger to snug up the Milwaukee slider, or add a spacer and screw it together and call it good. Or I'm certainly up for other ideas.

http://s1146.photobucket.com/user/michael_gleason2/library/Mobile Uploads/Ryobi Milwaukee Adapter

I do have one concern with your adapter. If you have it wired direct and the tool in the Milwaukee system normally provides the voltage cut out as opposed to the battery, you could toast your lithiums. I explain it in more detail here. I was just taking a peek at the parts diagram for an M18 work light which shows that a PCB exists between the incoming power and the bulb. The bulbs used are spec'd at 18 volts which means that PCB is not regulating voltage. I'm _guessing_ that likely means that the voltage sensing circuitry in the Milwaukee system is happening in the tool. If that is the case, your Ryobi saw can completely deplete the battery causing it to no longer take a charge.

mrvm · Feb 8, 2015

rslaback said:
On another note, how do you like the Ryobi 18v miter saw? I'm considering one.

Always wanted an 18V mitersaw for simple trim cuts with inexpensive 7-1/4" blades. Interesting niche tool for the carpenter/remodeler. Back then they were "blue" and Nicad power was the only choice and performance was just okay. Then they got discontinued for a while. Glad to see the 18V mitersaw is back with more power thanks to lithium, relatively inexpensive, has great reviews and still light-weight.

Making a battery adapter - Need a dead Ryobi pack

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Banned

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Banned

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member