The LawnLift 1000 - Lawn Mower turned forklift

lucky.expert · Jan 23, 2015

Well I finally have a decent project worthy of it's own thread, so here it is. I thought this might be a project that some on here might be interested in, and I figure I could use some of the good ideas I'm sure will follow. I've been following Don Campbells thread and was inspired by all the machines he made with a riding mower. I've been fascinated with the idea of making something that can pick up heavy stuff so I don't have to, and a forklift sounds like the easiest and cheapest option. Once I'm done, and if it works, you can probably find my at my house just picking stuff up and moving it around for no reason - just because I can.

The plan is flip the direction the mower drives, so the big back wheels are now the front wheels. I will build a mast that will be about 7ft tall, and possibly make an extension of a couple more feet in case i need more lift height. The lifting will be handled by a winch with a mechanical brake. My goal is to lift 500lbs. I don't have anything that needs moved that weighs that much, but it would be cool if it could.
This homemade forklift thread is where I am getting a lot of my ideas, since i know they should work.

I found a craftsman on craigslist with a 20HP B&S that had been sitting a while, but after cleaning up the carb and a new battery, it fired right up. It seems to be fairly heavy duty which is what I was hoping for.

The hardest part will be moving the steering, brakes/clutch, and the transmission shifter. I will eventually reverse the rotation direction of the belt that powers the transmission, so I don't have 1 speed forward and 6 speeds reverse, but that can come later after I get everything else working.

Now that I got the intro out of the way, pics will follow later of the progress so far.

8man · Jan 23, 2015

sounds like fun.

OccupantRJ · Jan 23, 2015

Weak point will be the differential housing. You need an early 70's Cub Cadet. All steel and cast iron. You better shoot for a low lift and 500 lbs or less, with counterweights on the steering axle.

lucky.expert · Jan 23, 2015

The mower

Stripped down

Gas tank and battery will be mounted below the seat.

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lucky.expert · Jan 23, 2015

OccupantRJ said:
Weak point will be the differential housing. You need an early 70's Cub Cadet. All steel and cast iron. You better shoot for a low lift and 500 lbs or less, with counterweights on the steering axle.

Yea 500 is a more reasonable target, I don't think I'll ever need it to lift 1000. In fact, I don't think it would see over a couple hundred pounds often. I will definitely be adding some counter weights to the back though.

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LXCam · Jan 23, 2015

Just getting in line to see this. Good luck bud, should be a fun project!.

mboss4 · Jan 23, 2015

Do you plan to reinforce the chassis?

bimmer1980 · Jan 25, 2015

do yourself a favor and do some simple load calculations for what you want to lift..... barring that, at least mock up a simple set of forks and load it up and see how much counter weight you will need....

You might be surprised at how much load capacity you need at the wheels to support the load.....

While this is a fairly straightforward load calc, please ask if you need details on how to do it...

As others have said, you need a strong axle!

hopefully you have run a forklift before so you have a little idea of what you need.....

Regardless, once you have a forklift, you'll never go back to not having one!!!

Kracin · Jan 25, 2015

lucky.expert said:
Yea 500 is a more reasonable target, I don't think I'll ever need it to lift 1000. In fact, I don't think it would see over a couple hundred pounds often. I will definitely be adding some counter weights to the back though.

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just don't calculate your own weight into it otherwise the one time you get off to check something and leave a load on, there it goes!

maybe use a sliding weight system so you can avoid adding and removing weight, and you can just move more weight farther behind you to counterbalance a heavier max load

lucky.expert · Jan 25, 2015

Chassis will be reinforced a little bit once I build the structure to attach the seat, gas tank, battery, etc.

The axle is one thing I am a little worried about, I may try to brace it more on the outer edges, or even build a secondary axle which would allow me to reverse the direction of the transmission as well.

alan camby · Jan 25, 2015

I Think I would get some trailer stub axles and make custom axles for front and rear of the mower and have the factory rear axle drive the stubs via a chain. You could even add some more reduction with the chain drive.

I just don't think the stock rear, or the the front, are going to like this. I would plan to reinforce the frame, if it were me. You are going to be adding even more weight with a counterweight and the weight of the mast.

alan camby · Jan 25, 2015

I love the sticker on the mower that says, "Turbo Twin Cylinder."

joseph.a.owens.9 · Jan 25, 2015

alan camby said:
I Think I would get some trailer stub axles and make custom axles for front and rear of the mower and have the factory rear axle drive the stubs via a chain. You could even add some more reduction with the chain drive.

I just don't think the stock rear, or the the front, are going to like this. I would plan to reinforce the frame, if it were me. You are going to be adding even more weight with a counterweight and the weight of the mast.

I like this idea but I'm not quite sure how you would add to the front.

joseph.a.owens.9 · Jan 25, 2015

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/281418-another-forklift-project.html found this you may wanna take a look.

ilikedirt · Feb 27, 2015

Sub'd for updates! This is going to be cool.

Professur · Feb 27, 2015

What are you going to fill the tires with?

p_mori7 · Feb 27, 2015

Following !

bad_idea · Feb 28, 2015

Love it. I will need one of these.

gungatim · Mar 2, 2015

Have you seen this one? I think I got it off TBN site a long time ago...always wanted to build something similar and been sitting on a nice JD 112 myself...sub'd for updates...

lucky.expert · Mar 20, 2015

Professur said:
What are you going to fill the tires with?

I hadn't actually thought of that, I guess I could fill them with something heavy? I've heard of it done but i've never done it. What can you fill them with?

gungatim said:
Have you seen this one? I think I got it off TBN site a long time ago...always wanted to build something similar and been sitting on a nice JD 112 myself...sub'd for updates...

Thats pretty cool, I hadn't seen that. I've seen some others with the forklift in the front but wondered if the wheels could turn with weight one them..

Kracin · Mar 20, 2015

lucky.expert said:
I hadn't actually thought of that, I guess I could fill them with something heavy? I've heard of it done but i've never done it. What can you fill them with?

Thats pretty cool, I hadn't seen that. I've seen some others with the forklift in the front but wondered if the wheels could turn with weight one them..

pretty sure you can pick up some kind of solid tire filler meant for making tires unpuncturable. not sure about the load rating, but as long as you aren't going to do more than you say you are, it shouldn't be too tough.

http://www.advancetires.com/Urethane_Foam_Filling.html

lucky.expert · Mar 20, 2015

I figure it's time for a small update.. Here is what is done so far. Steering wheel and shifter relocated. Gas tank and seat are mounted. My first attempt at relocating the steering wheel was a failure because the steering rod I built to connect the gearbox to the wheels had too many bends which made it way too flexible. I figured out an alternative which is way better and results in very firm steering.

Now I am trying to build a gas peddle assembly. Once again, my first attempt was a disaster but I think I have a new design in mind that will work. I bought a centrifugal clutch so I only have to worry about the gas pedal when maneuvering rather than dealing with a crappy lawn mower belt clutch.

I haven't decided on the length for the gear shifter, it will probably be bent out a little as well.

So far most of the frame is just tacked together. You can seem my cheapo HF flux core welder in the background that does a good job considering the price. The welds aren't pretty but that might have something to do with my welding talents as well.

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Greeny · Mar 20, 2015

Love the project! Following along to see what you end up with.
I've got some experience with centrifugal clutches from mini bikes and gokarts. They don't last very long when you kind of putt around at part throttle. They get hot, burn or glaze, and the springs loose their temper and the clutch ends up engaged all the time. Those clutches work best when the demand is full throttle or nothing.
Maybe you're working with something more industrial or robust than the kind of clutches I'm thinking of?

lucky.expert · Mar 20, 2015

Greeny said:
Love the project! Following along to see what you end up with.
I've got some experience with centrifugal clutches from mini bikes and gokarts. They don't last very long when you kind of putt around at part throttle. They get hot, burn or glaze, and the springs loose their temper and the clutch ends up engaged all the time. Those clutches work best when the demand is full throttle or nothing.
Maybe you're working with something more industrial or robust than the kind of clutches I'm thinking of?

Thanks! yea that is something I am a little worried about but I did buy a Hilliard extreme duty clutch from northern tool that had very good reviews on their durability. I guess i'll find out. I paid as much for the clutch as I did the whole lawn mower :dunno:

($80). It is definitely heavier duty than the average go cart clutch though.

Greeny · Mar 20, 2015

lucky.expert said:
Thanks! yea that is something I am a little worried about but I did buy a Hilliard extreme duty clutch from northern tool that had very good reviews on their durability. I guess i'll find out. I paid as much for the clutch as I did the whole lawn mower ($80). It is definitely heavier duty than the average go cart clutch though.

Yup, bought several of those exact clutches from NT. Had good luck with them on minibikes; lighter vehicle and smaller motors. The smaller motor virtually guaranteed they were only going anywhere under full throttle. On the 6.5hp gokarts, they were fine with my kids running them. But, nieces and nephews who were a bit more timid (especially on the heavier two passenger kart) would burn them up in an afternoon or two.

lucky.expert · Apr 10, 2015

Well I have made a little more progress. I wound up removing the centrifugal clutch and taking it back to northern tool. After I installed it, it test drove it around the yard and the engagement just wasn't as smooth as I was hoping. It stayed engaged even at idle half the time so it was basically useless. I decided to just get my money back for the clutch and just build a new clutch pedal mechanism that connects to the existing "clutch" aka belt tensioner. It actually works very well and is very smooth so I am very happy I went this route and saved $90. Plus I don't have to worry about burning up the clutch as greeny mentioned.

I also built the panel where the ignition/throttle/choke are located. It is just a piece of plywood that all the controls are mounted to. I will be wrapping a skin around the new frame of the forklift eventually so the wood will be hidden.

Next up is building the mast! Also need to build the brake mechanism.

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Greeny · Apr 11, 2015

Woo Hoo! Really looking forward to seeing this come together.

joseph.a.owens.9 · Apr 11, 2015

Is that a shopping cart?

lucky.expert · Apr 11, 2015

joseph.a.owens.9 said:
Is that a shopping cart?

Haha, sure is. Makes a great scrap wood bin. Found it by the dumpster a few years back

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shortykorte · Apr 11, 2015

Definitely following since I have the same basic mower and two pairs of actual forklift forks.

mrolds88 · Apr 11, 2015

Nice build. I have 2 things to add. First is the flip the drive belt so you don't have 1 forward gear and 5 or 6 reverses. And second, get a pair of pillow blocks to mount the drive axle shafts to. Then mount them to the outboard of the frame. will hold up better that just the axle housing.

lucky.expert · Apr 11, 2015

mrolds88 said:
Nice build. I have 2 things to add. First is the flip the drive belt so you don't have 1 forward gear and 5 or 6 reverses. And second, get a pair of pillow blocks to mount the drive axle shafts to. Then mount them to the outboard of the frame. will hold up better that just the axle housing.

I thought about just flipping the belt but was worried about the belt rubbing in the middle where they cross? I did buy 2 spur gears I was planning on using to reverse the direction. Flipping the belt would sure be easier though if rubbing isn't a problem.

As far as the axle support goes, this model actual has pretty good support. The axle housing goes almost all the way out to the wheel, and is supported by the outer edge of the frame.

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RickP · Apr 12, 2015

Very cool project! I can't wait to see it finished.

I also checked out the link you posted to the electric forklift - pretty good fab pictures.

shortykorte · Apr 23, 2015

Any updates?

PugetDude · Apr 23, 2015

lucky.expert said:
I hadn't actually thought of that, I guess I could fill them with something heavy? I've heard of it done but i've never done it. What can you fill them with?

Calcium- any agricultural tire store can do it.

Aspen RT · Apr 23, 2015

Wow......I never thought of a mower turned fork lift. Cool deal, anxious to see how it turns out.

lucky.expert · Apr 23, 2015

She is almost functional! The mast and forks have been built, the scissor jack installed (to control tilt), and winch installed. I still need to connect the winch so I can actually test the operation. Everything is just tacked together so I haven't put any weight on forks to test how well it takes a load. Hopefully will get it welded up this weekend and take it for a test ... Lift?

The bearing contraption to glide the fork frame up and down the mast

I was going to make the forks foldable, so I could simply fold them up to take less space in storage, but I didn't have any steel plate to make a descent hinge that wouldn't stretch or bend. The forks just hook on though so they will still pop off easy enough. There is a second rail I can hang the forks from about 8" higher than the main rail so I can get a little extra height in the event I need it.

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lucky.expert · Apr 23, 2015

PugetDude said:
Calcium- any agricultural tire store can do it.

interesting, i'll have to look into that if it feels like it needs something. I did a test the other day with all my weight + a 2x4 contraption to simulate forks trying to see how easy it would be to pop the rear end off the ground, and it surprisingly wasn't easy. That 20HP B&S is pretty heavy.

jonjon1 · Apr 23, 2015

you are getting there, it looks awesome...

PugetDude · Apr 23, 2015

Gotta admit I was skeptical at first, but this is turning out to be a great build! :thumbup:

Now all you need is...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forklift-Sa...424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e960bc70

The LawnLift 1000 - Lawn Mower turned forklift

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