My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press

bagged89s10 · Feb 13, 2015

My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

So I just started looking at vintage drill presses this week and found a bunch on Craigslist. I found this Duro Metal Products Co. bench model listed for $100. The owner of 2 bay auto service shop was selling it. He was a pretty cool guy who owned the shop with his father and, while he also works for VW of America as a sales trainer.

Long story short, I bought it for $60 and they threw it in the back of my Suburban.

It's very clean. Not much rust on it. It needs the motor rewired as it wasn't turning on then it fired up after playing with the wire. The quill return spring needs to be fixed or replaced. It is a little tight and doesn't return. The chuck spins nicely and doesn't seem to deflect. I need to find a chuck key for it.

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bagged89s10 · Feb 13, 2015

Also doesn't have the correct handle. I'll have to find another one to attach.

the Serial number reads V80-PP

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After doing some research on www.owwm.com I found it in the 1949 Duro catalog.

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It seems to be the V-3080

It's a 14"drill press with a 10"x10" table and base. It's rpm range from 590-4000

The motor is a 1/2 HP single phase 1725 RPM made by Kingtson-Conley Electric company out of North Plainfield, NJ

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First step is to clean up and rewire the motor.
Any suggestions or tips on rebuilding the motor is appreciated.

jakemac · Feb 13, 2015

The bottom nut on the quill stop should be up with the one on top. The two nuts are used together to create a depth stop. A single nut can be used, but it can move on you when you're working. By tightening the nuts together they will lock in place on the threads so that they don't move when drilling repetitive depths, or when a blind hole needs to be drilled.

It's not all that important to the operation of the DP, but it caught my eye in the pictures. :dunno:

bagged89s10 · Feb 14, 2015

jakemac said:
The bottom nut on the quill stop should be up with the one on top. The two nuts are used together to create a depth stop. A single nut can be used, but it can move on you when you're working. By tightening the nuts together they will lock in place on the threads so that they don't move when drilling repetitive depths, or when a blind hole needs to be drilled.

It's not all that important to the operation of the DP, but it caught my eye in the pictures.

Thanks for pointing that out. I did miss that.

Whitworth · Feb 14, 2015

Oil the spring and work it (the quill) up and down a bit. Also check the nuts holding the pinion handle on against the return spring case are not too tight.
If you feel you have to remove the spring, be careful it gets messy and the springs are brittle and can break if the tension is released suddenly.

By rebuilding the motor do you intend on replacing the bearings?

G

bagged89s10 · Feb 14, 2015

Whitworth said:
Oil the spring and work it (the quill) up and down a bit. Also check the nuts holding the pinion handle on against the return spring case are not too tight.
If you feel you have to remove the spring, be careful it gets messy and the springs are brittle and can break if the tension is released suddenly.

By rebuilding the motor do you intend on replacing the bearings?

G

So I sprayed everything with some Gibbs penetrant last night and loosened the 2 bolts in front of the quill housing. I think that lever is called a quill or spindle lock? I got about 1.5" of travel with the quill returning fine. Any further sounded like a little grinding. This morning I inspected the teeth on the rear of the quill and they looked fine. Turns out it was the quill stop rod causing the problem. I removed and reinstalled the quill stop and i get full smooth travel and it's returning perfectly. Now I need to test if anything might be bent. What's the best gauge to use to see if the quill goes down straight?

As far as the motor goes I'm undecided. I think it would be best to replace the bearings while I have the motor apart, but if they are fine why bother. I want to first replace the power cord and test the switch before I take the motor apart. I want to at least clean up the motor and paint it. It's easier to paint while it's apart.

jakemac · Feb 14, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
Now I need to test if anything might be bent. What's the best gauge to use to see if the quill goes down straight?

Stick a straight rod in the chuck that is long enough to just go through the hole in the table. Then adjust the table to the side so that the rod is just a hair off the side of the hole. Rotate the chuck to confirm that the rod is straight. Now, slowly lower the quill and watch the gap between the table and the rod to see if there is any change in the gap.

If you don't notice a change in the gap, you're good. If there is a slight change, then you need to decide if you can live with it. If there is a significant change in the gap, then you have a lot of work to do.

nine4gmc · Feb 14, 2015

Jake mentioned a great way to test the slop. A good gauge would be a dial indicator on a magnetic base, like machinists use. They are good for lots of other purposes as well so if you don't have one, you may want to check into one. HF sells one that is acceptable for things like that. If you go to replace bearings, you may want to pick up a digital caliper while you are at it. Some bearings have relatively the same part number but different size center holes. Don't ask me how I know that, and as mentioned, take lots of pics and store them, BTDT...

Whitworth · Feb 14, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
As far as the motor goes I'm undecided. I think it would be best to replace the bearings while I have the motor apart, but if they are fine why bother. I want to first replace the power cord and test the switch before I take the motor apart. I want to at least clean up the motor and paint it. It's easier to paint while it's apart.

The thing with the bearings is they probably pre-date Cuban missle crisis and as such the grease inside them has long since separated and there is no effective lubricant left.

If the bearings are a common size (likely metric) it's best to replace them. If they're an obsolete size bearing you may have to hunt around and find an equivilant modern bearing or maybe have to live with them.

1930artdeco · Feb 14, 2015

Thanks for the tips Jake.

Mike

bagged89s10 · Feb 14, 2015

jakemac said:
Stick a straight rod in the chuck that is long enough to just go through the hole in the table. Then adjust the table to the side so that the rod is just a hair off the side of the hole. Rotate the chuck to confirm that the rod is straight. Now, slowly lower the quill and watch the gap between the table and the rod to see if there is any change in the gap.

If you don't notice a change in the gap, you're good. If there is a slight change, then you need to decide if you can live with it. If there is a significant change in the gap, then you have a lot of work to do.

Thanks for the tip. I will try that out.

bagged89s10 · Feb 15, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

Does anyone know how to remove the chuck. Do I just take a wedge or wooden block and knock it out?

bagged89s10 · Feb 15, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

Or does it unthread. What tool do I need to hold the chuck and loosen that round nut?

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nine4gmc · Feb 15, 2015

Some cases, that round nut is used to push the chuck off, you'll need a pin spanner wrench.

bmw57isetta · Feb 15, 2015

Bagged: First of all, congrats on the Duro score! I have a Duro F-3083 I'm restoring right now. It's the baby brother to the one you have and is pictured in the link to the page out of the Duro catalog in a previous post.

I ordered a Jacobs chuck wedge to pop my chuck off. Came from Amazon via Apex Tools in North Carolina. If you have the 33 or 633 chuck you'll want the #6 wedge. I had soaked the chuck in Evaporust overnight and removal was effortless. I think it ran around $13 USD delivered. I'm sure others have several home brew methods that will work just as well.

Nine is correct about the pin spanner wrench. I got mine from McMaster-Carr. Zoro Tools has them too. If I remember correctly, you'll need to spec the one with the 1/4" pin diameter to get the best grip on the collar. Be sure to measure the hole in the side of the collar to confirm the correct pin diameter before you order. Might wanna check out Mc-C's part numbers 5472A4 and A5 for starters. (The one they sent me is an Armstrong/Apex USA unit if you're keeping score at home) I'd suggest putting a piece of neoprene rubber scrap/rag/blue tape between the spanner and the knurling on the collar to keep from scratching it up.

Finally, and this may be a long shot, you might take that spindle/chuck assembly to a motorcycle shop as they use spanners all the time and may be able to make quick work out of if for you and bypass having to buy the spanner unless you want one for future drill press work. The old stuff gets sort of addictive once you've done the first one.

Good luck with your resto and keep the posts and pix coming.

bagged89s10 · Feb 15, 2015

nine4gmc said:
Some cases, that round nut is used to push the chuck off, you'll need a pin spanner wrench.

Thanks. I'll have to find one.

bmw57isetta said:
Bagged: First of all, congrats on the Duro score! I have a Duro F-3083 I'm restoring right now. It's the baby brother to the one you have and is pictured in the link to the page out of the Duro catalog in a previous post.

I ordered a Jacobs chuck wedge to pop my chuck off. Came from Amazon via Apex Tools in North Carolina. If you have the 33 or 633 chuck you'll want the #6 wedge. I had soaked the chuck in Evaporust overnight and removal was effortless. I think it ran around $13 USD delivered. I'm sure others have several home brew methods that will work just as well.

Nine is correct about the pin spanner wrench. I got mine from McMaster-Carr. Zoro Tools has them too. If I remember correctly, you'll need to spec the one with the 1/4" pin diameter to get the best grip on the collar. Be sure to measure the hole in the side of the collar to confirm the correct pin diameter before you order. Might wanna check out Mc-C's part numbers 5472A4 and A5 for starters. (The one they sent me is an Armstrong/Apex USA unit if you're keeping score at home) I'd suggest putting a piece of neoprene rubber scrap/rag/blue tape between the spanner and the knurling on the collar to keep from scratching it up.

Finally, and this may be a long shot, you might take that spindle/chuck assembly to a motorcycle shop as they use spanners all the time and may be able to make quick work out of if for you and bypass having to buy the spanner unless you want one for future drill press work. The old stuff gets sort of addictive once you've done the first one.

Good luck with your resto and keep the posts and pix coming.

That's awesome that you have one. Do you have a restore thread on it? I'd like to follow the build. I'm definitely pumped on this find. I might as well buy the tools to service this press if need be in the future. This site got me into looking for an old drill press and I'm already addicted.

bagged89s10 · Feb 16, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

I had a little time this evening after putting my son to bed to take a look at the motor and switch wiring. I saw it running when I went to buy it but the switch/wire seemed to be edgy. I plugged it in when I got it home and it didn't want to start

The good:
The switch is shot but I bypassed it to test the motor and it fires right up. The drill spins smooth and the motor runs smooth, from what I saw/heard so far. The wires going into the motor are in good shape and not brittle.

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Looking inside the motor from the top, it definitely looks to have 60 years+ of dirt in it. Hopefully I can take it apart easily to clean it up and paint it.

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The spot weld on the right side of the switch box cover is broken. What's the best way to fix this?

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The bad: it's F'in cold out in Connecticut right now. -23F windchill is no joke! At least my unheated garage didn't drop below +25F.

bmw57isetta · Feb 16, 2015

Bagged:

I don't have a resto thread yet. Took lots of pix that I need to get in order. When I do, I'll post a thread showing what's been done. Mainly cleanup of a well cared for DP that was owned by a master machinist who used it for his around-the-house jobs when he was in Alaska. Bought it from his son off of a CL listing for $30. It came with a Dayton Electric (Delco) motor that was huge and non-functional. It looked like a black watermelon strapped to the back of a stick figure. Friend wanted to **** with it so I gave it to him and picked up an old Craftsman to replace it.

That switch is a $3-4 part at Ace Hardware. I'm sure Home Depot and Lowe's have them too. Very easy to replace but that's where I stop when it comes to electric motors, especially the vintage variety. I'm getting ready to send my March '53 Craftsman/Packard Electric motor over to Hamilton Electric here in Austin. They did an outstanding job on the Craftsman 150 DP motor a couple of years ago. They also understand guys who spend way too much time and money on old stuff and want it looking as good as it works.

Here's the way mine looked when I got it and a partial shot of the castings after the media blasting session was over. I'll try to get off my keister and get the pix organized in a separate thread under this section.

bagged89s10 · Feb 17, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

I had 15 min before work this morning to test clean some metal and the chuck with a red scuff pad and WD40. It cleans right up. The chuck is a Jacobs 6A 33 taper. I didn't realize they were made in Connecticut. What wedges do I need to remove the chuck? I measured the hole on the chuck collar and the diameter is 1/8" so I can get a pin wrench now.

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I also took the pulley cover off to unveil the original paint. Anyone know what rustoleum rattle can color might be fairly close?

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What's the best cost effective way to polish up the bare metal on the column. I don't think I'll be able to separate the column from the base. I can use the buffing wheels on my bench grinder for all the smaller pieces. I don't have a Dremel. Can I use something on my drill? I might as well make it shine while in at it but don't want to spend too much.

Whitworth · Feb 17, 2015

If the chuck has the threaded collar, driving it off with a spanner will pop off the chuck. Saturate the area with your favorite spray lube beforehand helps.

LXCam · Feb 17, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
What's the best cost effective way to polish up the bare metal on the column. .

White Scotch bright pad, WD40 and stroke that baby like you've been married forever. :sad:

bagged89s10 · Feb 17, 2015

Whitworth said:
If the chuck has the threaded collar, driving it off with a spanner will pop off the chuck. Saturate the area with your favorite spray lube beforehand helps.

Which direction do I turn it?

Whitworth · Feb 17, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
Which direction do I turn it?

Anti-clockwise (as your looking at the business end of the chuck)

bagged89s10 · Feb 17, 2015

Whitworth said:
Anti-clockwise (as your looking at the business end of the chuck)

So you're saying to turn it counter clockwise if I'm looking up at the chuck's hole . Haha. Si they are not reverse threads or anything. That works. I have to go find a pin wrench hopefully after work.

bmw57isetta · Feb 17, 2015

Bagged:

Don't bail on getting that column out of the base. Most of them are stuck in there pretty good from having sat for years. My CMan 150 was a bear but it finally came out.

You might try setting the base/column assembly face down with the rear of the base sticking straight up. Remove the bolt that secures the column to the base and hose the threaded hole down with your rust penetrant du jour, Gibbs, Kroil, PB Blaster, WD-40, whatever. Fill that area up to the top of the hole. Let sit overnight ... or two. Then set it up as it would normally be used and spray penetrant around the base of the column where it enters the base so it can wick down in the base. Be patient as this may take a day or few to work. GENTLY tap around the base of the column and do same from underneath. That thing will come out for you eventually. If you have a propane torch handy, heat may be your friend too.

When you reassemble everything, put a light coat of waterproof bearing grease around the base of the column and the inside races that it slips into in the base. It won't be visible and should solve the disassembly problem should you or a future owner need to get it apart again.

By the way, those sanding blocks work wonders on surface-rusted columns but you've also been given good advice by others. I prefer Gibbs Penetrant for the finishing touch and wipe the column on my DP down a couple of times a year. Patina gets even better over time and the rust issues goes away.

bagged89s10 · Feb 17, 2015

bmw57isetta said:
Bagged:

Don't bail on getting that column out of the base. Most of them are stuck in there pretty good from having sat for years. My CMan 150 was a bear but it finally came out.

You might try setting the base/column assembly face down with the rear of the base sticking straight up. Remove the bolt that secures the column to the base and hose the threaded hole down with your rust penetrant du jour, Gibbs, Kroil, PB Blaster, WD-40, whatever. Fill that area up to the top of the hole. Let sit overnight ... or two. Then set it up as it would normally be used and spray penetrant around the base of the column where it enters the base so it can wick down in the base. Be patient as this may take a day or few to work. GENTLY tap around the base of the column and do same from underneath. That thing will come out for you eventually. If you have a propane torch handy, heat may be your friend too.

When you reassemble everything, put a light coat of waterproof bearing grease around the base of the column and the inside races that it slips into in the base. It won't be visible and should solve the disassembly problem should you or a future owner need to get it apart again.

By the way, those sanding blocks work wonders on surface-rusted columns but you've also been given good advice by others. I prefer Gibbs Penetrant for the finishing touch and wipe the column on my DP down a couple of times a year. Patina gets even better over time and the rust issues goes away.

I have to get the head to come off the column first. Maybe some heat is the best way after letting it soak in penetrant.

bagged89s10 · Feb 17, 2015

Stopped at harbor freight on the way home and grabbed this cheap buffing kit to try out with my die grinder.

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Used it for less than 5 min on the spindle lock and spring cover but works pretty well for $17

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bmw57isetta · Feb 19, 2015

Looking good! If you like the way that locking handle looks you'll love the way that quill return spring cover and retaining nut will look. Very easy to do. It's also a great opportunity to clean the gunk out of the inside of the spring pack. I proceeded with caution when I first took mine off but the spring stays put and is very easy to re-tension by just turning it counter-clockwise several times and then seating it again.

Here is a "before" and "after" shot of the one on the 3083. The "after" shot doesn't really do it justice as the darker part of the left side is a reflection.

For what it's worth, if you ever need a new spring, they still make them and are very easy to find, relatively cheap as well. Just Google (eBay search too) "quill return spring" and you'll be in business.

bagged89s10 · Feb 19, 2015

bmw57isetta said:
Looking good! If you like the way that locking handle looks you'll love the way that quill return spring cover and retaining nut will look. Very easy to do. It's also a great opportunity to clean the gunk out of the inside of the spring pack. I proceeded with caution when I first took mine off but the spring stays put and is very easy to re-tension by just turning it counter-clockwise several times and then seating it again.

Here is a "before" and "after" shot of the one on the 3083. The "after" shot doesn't really do it justice as the darker part of the left side is a reflection.

For what it's worth, if you ever need a new spring, they still make them and are very easy to find, relatively cheap as well. Just Google (eBay search too) "quill return spring" and you'll be in business.

Nice job. I definitely need to clean all the dirt out of all the moving parts. What color did you paint the drill press?

bmw57isetta · Feb 20, 2015

Bagged:

That's Rustoleum Rock Moss Green, # 249071, on top of several coats of Rustoleum Self Etching light gray primer. I thought it gave somewhat of a retro look and is easy on the eye. The original color was wrinkle-finish brown.

Your DP looks to have the same color although in one of the pix it seems to appear dark gray behind where the pulley cover fits. I know an early '50's Duro product catalog mentions light gray as a finish as well but I think yours was in their product line pre-WWII and was available after the war as well. That's about the time my 3083 came along.

Someone else can chime in here but the only source for the brown wrinkle paint was Kennedy and last time I looked they were plenty proud of it. You could always ad lib and paint it with VHT wrinkle black and then top coat it with brown if that's the route you wanted to go.

bagged89s10 · Feb 20, 2015

bmw57isetta said:
Bagged:

That's Rustoleum Rock Moss Green, # 249071, on top of several coats of Rustoleum Self Etching light gray primer. I thought it gave somewhat of a retro look and is easy on the eye. The original color was wrinkle-finish brown.

Your DP looks to have the same color although in one of the pix it seems to appear dark gray behind where the pulley cover fits. I know an early '50's Duro product catalog mentions light gray as a finish as well but I think yours was in their product line pre-WWII and was available after the war as well. That's about the time my 3083 came along.

Someone else can chime in here but the only source for the brown wrinkle paint was Kennedy and last time I looked they were plenty proud of it. You could always ad lib and paint it with VHT wrinkle black and then top coat it with brown if that's the route you wanted to go.

I'm undecided. I kind of like the patina on it right now. I might just clean it up and not paint it. I will see once I get it all apart.

bagged89s10 · Feb 25, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

So bad news. I cracked the pulley. I need help finding a replacement.

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bmw57isetta · Feb 25, 2015

My motor pulley was cracked due to someone dropping it on the floor. I got the replacement from Electric Motor Warehouse in Burton, Michigan. It's made by Congress Drives in Detroit USA. Probably wouldn't hurt to call them at 810.744.1240 or 877.986.6867 and tell them what you have. You'll need to match the splines up and I would imagine they could walk you through it to make sure you order the right one. You'll also need to give them the diameter of the large pulley and the overall height. It's a '4-step pulley' in their terminology.

Mine ran around $22.00 plus shipping and received in a timely manner. You can also go out on eBay or McMaster-Carr and find one there if you know exactly what you need. Lots of sources for new pulleys.

Let us know how your shopping trip goes as others have had the same issue to deal with.

bagged89s10 · Feb 25, 2015

bmw57isetta said:
My motor pulley was cracked due to someone dropping it on the floor. I got the replacement from Electric Motor Warehouse in Burton, Michigan. It's made by Congress Drives in Detroit USA. Probably wouldn't hurt to call them at 810.744.1240 or 877.986.6867 and tell them what you have. You'll need to match the splines up and I would imagine they could walk you through it to make sure you order the right one. You'll also need to give them the diameter of the large pulley and the overall height. It's a '4-step pulley' in their terminology.

Mine ran around $22.00 plus shipping and received in a timely manner. You can also go out on eBay or McMaster-Carr and find one there if you know exactly what you need. Lots of sources for new pulleys.

Let us know how your shopping trip goes as others have had the same issue to deal with.

Called them and they don't have splined pulleys.

Whitworth · Feb 25, 2015

Option 1: just use it with the chipped pulley.

Option 2: find a replacement on ebay or owwm.org

Option 3: .................. there is no other option.

Cope · Feb 25, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

bagged89s10 said:
Or does it unthread. What tool do I need to hold the chuck and loosen that round nut?

Clamp an Allen wrench in the chuck and use the appropriate wrench to hold chuck. Insert a punch in the hole in the collar and turn counter clockwise to loosen the collar. I have this chuck on my Craftsman DP. The original chuck key had the end of the handle turned down to fit the collar.

bagged89s10 · Feb 25, 2015

Whitworth said:
Option 1: just use it with the chipped pulley.

Option 2: find a replacement on ebay or owwm.org

Option 3: .................. there is no other option.

The picture didn't come out good but the whole pulley is cracked. I can only use it on the smallest diameter pulley. I wonder if I can get away with using a smooth 5/8" bore pulley with a keyway?

bagged89s10 · Feb 26, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

It might be a good time to learn how to broach some splines if I can't find one. I just need an arbor press and broach set.

bagged89s10 · Feb 27, 2015

Re: My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press. Restore thread

So I might have found a replacement for $25. I'm going to take a ride later today to see this guy and hopefully it's a match.

bagged89s10 · Jul 3, 2015

So I have a pulley but I just haven't put the motor back on yet. Here is the mounting place for my drill press.

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My newly acquired Duro V-3080 drill press

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