Craftsman Drill Press 103.0303

AdrianBoomer · Feb 26, 2015

I am finishing up this old craftsman. I have used it for years but decided to clean it up. The Quill return spring keeps breaking on me when I try to re-install it. I know there are aftermarket replacements but I am unsure where to find one. I am usually awesome with the googling and searches but I am coming up empty handed. here are a few pics of was I was dealing with and where I am now.

I have lots of old craftsman but this is one of my favourites. Any help would be greatly appreciated source that darn spring!

Plombob · Feb 27, 2015

That's pretty cool! Love the flying head on that DP!

macgee · Mar 6, 2015

Adrian, Yours looks great, nice job especially with the motor.

Here is mine, too bad I'm just getting ready to sell it. As the story goes, they were made in 1942 only for one year as they had to get the factory ready for WWII.

The thing weighs a ton, over 100 lbs for sure.

It works great with very little run out. I put a new motor on it from around the same era, a bit newer. The blue paint is original and the machined surfaces are nicely square with the quill and chuck.

I was going to repaint the DP but didn't have the heart to replace the orig. paint since it's not in too terrible of shape. I wish I had room for it.

uniballer · Mar 6, 2015

Good job, big difference of what it looked like before!

pirana · Mar 6, 2015

Beautiful

macgee · Mar 6, 2015

After looking at Adrian's paint job, If I decide to keep it I might have to give it a good paint job. For a bench top drill press, these DP's are pretty useful as they are 15" with 4 speeds. I just refinished a huge Delta 18" floor model so we'll see.

I really like the way you improved the power switch, it looks good on your drill press.

This is what mine looked like when I got it:

jransom · Mar 6, 2015

Hey macgee, I saw this on CL this morning as I'm in the market for a DP. Is it slow enough to use with steel? I'm new to these so I'm just learning about them. When you say "very little run out", what exactly is that in reference to? Thanks and talk soon! -John

Edit: I should mention that 1/2" steel plate is probably the thickest I'll need to drill through and that will probably be very rarely if at all.

AdrianBoomer · Mar 7, 2015

thanks for the feedback guys and also share other pics. Macgee, I wish I could have saved the original paint, but the original owner sprayed it gold! I tried to get down to the blue and save it but it didn't work out and just stripped and prime/painted. I had a quill return problem that has since been resolved. I think its a great looking and more than adequate Drill press for my purposes. I did rebuild the motor as well and all is running smooth. I need to pull the pulley bearings and replace the 6204s but read that they can be a bear. Do you guys have any experience with this?

AdrianBoomer · Mar 24, 2015

Pulled the pulley bearings

i had heard that these are a real bear to pull off because they are pressed onto a hollow shaft that is also pressed into the casting. I applied heat and they pulled right off. It took be a long time to locate the bearing number, but after a lot of research and finding a few other owners over at OWWM, I was successful. For future reference, The pulley Spindle bearings on a Craftsman 103.0303 are 6204s. There are 2 of them stacked. The quill bearings are standard 15mm 6202s.

I replaced the quill return and now the press is complete. I used Rustoleum Smoke grey. The thing runs smooth and quiet now

I am glad it all worked out. Now I have to finish my 9" craftsman table saw which is nearly there but there are some hard to find bits. Cheers Everyone. Thanks for sharing your enthusiasm and pics of your DPs. It's been fun!

A E Numan · Mar 24, 2015

That drill press is super nice! You've done a great job refurbishing it. I love the shape of that belt guard.

macgee · Mar 24, 2015

AdrianBoomer said:
thanks for the feedback guys and also share other pics. Macgee, I wish I could have saved the original paint, but the original owner sprayed it gold! I tried to get down to the blue and save it but it didn't work out and just stripped and prime/painted. I had a quill return problem that has since been resolved. I think its a great looking and more than adequate Drill press for my purposes. I did rebuild the motor as well and all is running smooth. I need to pull the pulley bearings and replace the 6204s but read that they can be a bear. Do you guys have any experience with this?

Hi Adrian,

Sorry for taking so long to reply.

You did an awesome job and the drill press looks beautiful with the color you chosen. I never had to replace the bearings as they were still in good shape and I had very little runout.

I will say that you were braver than me, I was worried making an attempt changing the bearings and getting it wrong but unlike yours mine were fine so I generally use the moto if it aint broken, don't fix it.

Have you tried measuring the runout yet?

I also really recommend using a link belt. You can get them at Rockler but Harbor Freight sells the exact same for much less ($20 with coupon). It will reduce the noise and vibration considerably compared to a typical belt.

http://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html

I can guarantee that the information you provide about changing the bearings in this thread will be very beneficial for the years to come to whoever owns this model or similar drill press. They're virtually no service information online about this drill press and I know many will be needing to learn how to do it soon.

Cheers

PS: This is a great and solid drill press for anyone for how old it is even compared to modern ones, it's very functional with a 3" quill drill depth, good speeds that are super easy and quick to change, very stable platform and nice large adjustable table with a fluid gutter. These weigh over 100 lbs, they aint flexy.

macgee · Mar 24, 2015

Here's a link to the original manual for your drill press. You might find it useful.

It lists parts and speeds

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2097.pdf

AdrianBoomer · Mar 25, 2015

Thanks again Macgee for sharing your pictures, experience and info of what you know about this machine. There are a few of them but not many, so it's great to be able to pool the knowledge for the next guy. I will try one of those link belts and see what kind of difference it makes!

macgee said:
Here's a link to the original manual for your drill press. You might find it useful.

It lists parts and speeds

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2097.pdf

AdrianBoomer · Mar 25, 2015

A E Numan said:
That drill press is super nice! You've done a great job refurbishing it. I love the shape of that belt guard.

Thanks! It was fun. I seem to have become a Craftsman guy. I picked them as they are plentiful, I love the Art deco industrial design and they are relatively easy to work on. I have pretty much the whole line of 1940s shop tools now and have pretty well documented all the restorations. Maybe I will post in some future threads. Thanks for your kind words.

randraka · Mar 29, 2015

I have a Craftsman 103.0303 that is overall in pretty good shape that I picked up at a garage sale for $30. It has a bit of a wobble easily visible at the end of a drill bit. I removed the chuck from the spindle using #6 wedges and put a dial indicator on the tapered spindle. The spindle is showing about +/- 0.003. Is mine perhaps bent, or is this amount of variation as the taper turns normal?

AdrianBoomer · Mar 29, 2015

Randraka, I have not measured the run-out yet however, it runs extremely smooth and there is no visual wobble. I did changed my spindle bearings when I did my tear down and rebuild, not sure if that helped. Maybe one day soon, I will report back what the run-out actually is on my Press.

MacGee, I tried a link belt but it did not fit under the Belt Guard. But the machine is running smooth and quite regardless. Thanks for all the suggestions.

randraka · Mar 29, 2015

Thank you Adrian. I wasn't planning to tear this one down and rebuild it, but either the run-out seems excessive or the chuck wasn't straight on the spindle. Hopefully cleaning out the tapered bore, wiping down the spindle and re-seating the chuck reduces the wobble. If not, I guess I should tear it down and check the spindle for straightness and look at replacing the bearings.

AdrianBoomer said:
Randraka, I have not measured the run-out yet however, it runs extremely smooth and there is no visual wobble. I did changed my spindle bearings when I did my tear down and rebuild, not sure if that helped. Maybe one day soon, I will report back what the run-out actually is on my Press.

MacGee, I tried a link belt but it did not fit under the Belt Guard. But the machine is running smooth and quite regardless. Thanks for all the suggestions.

randraka · Mar 29, 2015

Also, the only copy of the original manual I've found so far (it is actually for the 103.0305 which appears to be the same press with a taller column) only has the first two pages. I found instructions for a different Craftsman drill press that has a similar construction. I thought this might be useful to others. It can be found at http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6683.pdf

randraka · Mar 29, 2015

The tapered shaft has a runout of 0.006" (+/- 0.003). However the bottom eighth inch or so of the tapered shaft has corrosion damage or some kind of buildup on it. I put the chuck back on and measured the runout of the chuck at the collar and that measures about 0.028", so it appears the chuck is not getting set firmly on the taper due to the condition of the taper. A brass brush was not sufficient to clean the taper, but I hesitate to use a steel brush or any abrasives for fear of ruining the taper (if it is not already shot). If I rotate the chuck on the taper before seating it, I can feel there are significant bumps. No doubt this is the major source of the problem. How much can I get away with trying to clean off the pitting or whatever on the taper? I'll have to figure out how to clean the inside surface of the chuck as well.

harleybuilder · Mar 29, 2015

Is there any way to lightly use emery cloth on the taper in such a way to just lightly clean the surface?

bubinga · Mar 30, 2015

harleybuilder said:
Is there any way to lightly use emery cloth on the taper in such a way to just lightly clean the surface?

That is what l would do.
Or even glue some emery paper to a flat piece of steel or wood, and use it under power like a file, keeping it nice and flat/even on the taper.
It should not remove much metal. Even if you took off a few thousands, the chuck would just go on a little further.

Either that or I would think maybe a bit of valve grinding compound in the chuck taper and on the spindle taper and lap it a bit by hand. Then clean it up real good with brake klean and blow out with air.

randraka · Apr 1, 2015

Thanks. I did clean up just the bottom 1/8" of the spindle, as that's where all of the corrosion was. It didn't help a lot because there is quite a bit more inside the chuck. I think I'm going to buy a replacement chuck and see if that fixes it.
Next question, does the spindle come out of the quill? The head of the set screw in the knurled collar above the chuck is stripped. Looks like it was a slotted set screw. I need to get that out to remove that collar. It isn't clear whether the spindle comes out if you remove the collar or not. If so, then what is spindle shaft? is it tapered, or constant diameter, and is there a commonly available replacement for it. I see lots of 33 taper shafts with 3/4 or 1/2 " straight shafts on the opposite end, maybe one of those could replace the spindle if the spindle is still an issue. Another option, would be to find a place where I could get the spindle reground to a 33 taper. Any ideas?

bubinga · Apr 4, 2015

l don't know if this is like my 150 or not.
But on the 150, there is a screw in the bottom of the head that you loosen, and take the spring tension knob off , and remove the depth stop, 1 nut and tap it out with a brass hammer.
and support your quill, or lock it with the quill lock and drop your quill out.
On mine then there is a collar on the TOP of the spindle you must remove, then you should be able to press the spindle out down through the quill.
Then there is a bearing in the top and a bearing in the bottom.
Going together you would have to see the best way to support your inner bearing races as you press the spindle through.
I think you could probably support the inner race of the bottom quill pulley, and press the spindle down as far as it needs to go. and then press the outer race into the bottom of the quill.
It would be nice to get the chuck and the bottom collar off too,
I think if it is like on mine, the collar un screws to push the chuck off.
There is one on e bay now, for a 100 0r a 150, don't know if its the same.
But I think he wants $60,00 + shipping, it would be nice to just be able to fix yours.

Jmalcore · Sep 14, 2015

I was recently given one of these beauties. Only problem is I don't have the chuck key. Can anyone get me the size I need to buy and where I can get one?

Thanks!

macgee · Sep 15, 2015

It depends on the chuck you have mounted to the drill pres. Can you post the model # you have, it should be on the chuck.

macgee · Sep 19, 2015

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it's the K3 chuck key from Jacobs.

http://www.jacobschuck.com/accessories/keys/jacobs-3651d-k3-chuck-key.html

popsjohn · Sep 23, 2016

I found a model 103.0305 on Craigslist without a motor and it is missing the pulley cover. Asking $60. Is this a good price?

macgee · Sep 23, 2016

popsjohn said:
I found a model 103.0305 on Craigslist without a motor and it is missing the pulley cover. Asking $60. Is this a good price?

Need to see a pic but the belt cover is very distinctive and cool. Motors are the easiest thing to replace on this drill press as long as you don't mind a non stock motor.

Plus bearings and runout condition also dictate value.

popsjohn · Sep 24, 2016

I am new to this. What is runout? Can you explain or direct me to a resource?

bubinga · Oct 6, 2016

Runout is if you chucked a perfectly ground (round, and true) shaft in the. Chuck, then using a indicator that measures in thousands of an inch, measuring how true the shalt runs. It should not move the needle mote than a few thousands of an inch. Preferably less than that, but I don't think. 002 it too much.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

bubinga · Oct 24, 2016

There is probably a video on you tube showing how it's done.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

jywilli69 · Nov 4, 2016

That is a very nice Drill.

emoze · Oct 31, 2017

i recently got one of these - would anyone please explain what that large knurled knob on the left side does? (in macgee's 4th picture above)

mine has the common broken bottom sheave on the driven pulley but is otherwise in good working condition

macgee · Oct 31, 2017

emoze said:
i recently got one of these - would anyone please explain what that large knurled knob on the left side does? (in macgee's 4th picture above)

mine has the common broken bottom sheave on the driven pulley but is otherwise in good working condition

It's where the spring is for the quill return. You can tighten it or lose it to remove the spring and pinion that hold the handle to make the quill (chuck) go down or back up.

Be very careful with that spring, if it breaks you're pretty much done for unless you can find anther matching spring to replace it.

BertD · Oct 8, 2018

I'm new to this forum. Recently picked up a Sears Craftman 103-0303 DP at a farm auction and am in the process of cleaning & refurbishing it. Found this forum while looking for info and it has been most helpful in identifying it's A "King-Seeley", it's age and common "issues" they share.
I noticed in one of your post that your return spring issue had been resolved and that there may be replacement springs available. Could you please share that information.
My return has been "expediently modified" with the addition of an externally mounted return spring. It works but I'd like to keep it as original as possible.
Current status: It's cleaning up nice.. But now I need to find that non essential but uniquely designed #11340 guard assy... the so called "Flying Head" that covers the pulleys ! I'd appreciate any help you or other readers could provide in locating an available pulley cover that could be refinished, as well as a replacement for the motor pulley as the bottom sheave is paper thin.
Once I cleaned off about 50+ years of accumulated grime, I found this unit was actually a dark blue that I've been able to match pretty closely to the OEM finish which was still in great shape under the work table & base. The OEM "Sears Companion Motor" worked fine with just a new cord & switch. Everything else seems to be reasonably tight so it looks like cleaning lubing and reassembly will make a functional again. I'll try to get a few pictures posted once I get it all together and running. Thanks ... looking forward to using this forum more.

b7labelle · Jun 5, 2019

AdrianBoomer said:
Pulled the pulley bearings

i had heard that these are a real bear to pull off because they are pressed onto a hollow shaft that is also pressed into the casting. I applied heat and they pulled right off. It took be a long time to locate the bearing number, but after a lot of research and finding a few other owners over at OWWM, I was successful. For future reference, The pulley Spindle bearings on a Craftsman 103.0303 are 6204s. There are 2 of them stacked. The quill bearings are standard 15mm 6202s.

I replaced the quill return and now the press is complete. I used Rustoleum Smoke grey. The thing runs smooth and quiet now

I am glad it all worked out. Now I have to finish my 9" craftsman table saw which is nearly there but there are some hard to find bits. Cheers Everyone. Thanks for sharing your enthusiasm and pics of your DPs. It's been fun!

Just in case anyone ever finds this post rebuilding their 103.0303, the quill bearings may be 6202 5/8”, not 15mm. Appears there some shafts that are 15mm (standard 6202s), and others that are 5/8”. The 6204s were correct for my press.

ItsCraftsmanTime · Mar 11, 2025

Just picked up this awesome thing! Don't know if this thread is still active or not, but I need some help. I cannot find a "mohawk" cover anywhere! I'm also missing the feed down handle and need a new quill spring because it snapped. If anybody could steer me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it!

Cruzan80 · Mar 13, 2025

The cover is going to be the hardest thing to find. The .0303 handle is just a rod with a couple of grooves cut in each end, and the ends rounded. Secured with a knurled screw in the end, IIRC. Can't remember if Atlas springs fit the Mohawk.

ItsCraftsmanTime · Mar 14, 2025

Cruzan80 said:
The cover is going to be the hardest thing to find. The .0303 handle is just a rod with a couple of grooves cut in each end, and the ends rounded. Secured with a knurled screw in the end, IIRC. Can't remember if Atlas springs fit the Mohawk.

Yeah, that's my main concern. I plan on making my own 3 spoke type handle similar to the ones found on the bigger floor models (something along the lines of the King Seely lineup). I've also realized that some of the teeth on the pinion shaft are damaged as well, so now I'm looking into buying a second unit to act as a donor. That has also been proven to be very difficult, so if you see anything out there, just let me know! Didn't plan on doing a majority restore at first, but upon purchasing this thing and looking into it, I realized that it was in worse shape than I originally thought. Doesn't have to be just a 303 though, a 304 or 305 will work as well.

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