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My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

bagged89s10

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I'm the proud new owner of this vintage Craftsman Band saw. It's in pretty good shape. I found it by accident while searching for metal cabinets on Craigslist. Picked it up for $40 from a contractor who is downsizing his workshop. The cord is broken so I didn't see it run yet, but it was only $40. The wood stand it's on is pretty rough so for now I will just take the legs off and put it on my bench. My future plan is to find or make a gear reduction for it so it can cut metal.

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bagged89s10

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Does anyone know if these eBay tires are a good buy?
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Or should I buy the ones from sears parts?
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Both are about the same price for a pair but the eBay ones are urethane.
 

jaggedscars

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Does anyone know if these eBay tires are a good buy?
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Or should I buy the ones from sears parts?
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Both are about the same price for a pair but the eBay ones are urethane.


Same times I ordered for my 103.0103... Seem like nice tires so far. The tool they send with the times to install them is junk. Tires are pretty stiff, but with warm water, they do stretch onto the wheel. They are a glue-less install and fit tight on wheel. Width is cut almost perfect for the wheel.
 
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bagged89s10

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So I haven't worked in the bandsaw but took it off the original stand and decided this 50s craftsman toolbox I picked up is the perfect stand.
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bagged89s10

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You can also see in the above pic the the table tilts back a little when it's tightened down. I think something is worn and I will have to shim it or something.
 

Brock47

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So I haven't worked in the bandsaw but took it off the original stand and decided this 50s craftsman toolbox I picked up is the perfect stand.

Yours looks pretty nice. I have the same saw and am pulling it apart now. I ordered the blue tires for it off ebay. I hope they are good.

Are you planning on doing the bearings? The lower wheel bearing is an oddball. I'm debating just running the one that's in it for now, but the top I am replacing. They are pretty easy.
 

jywilli69

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Well Bud, looks like you and I are in the same boat. You got one heck of a steal on that Bandsaw. I have one that didn't have a motor for $40. It had the original fence and guide. I will be putting it on a proper stand once we get moved to our new home which will be sometime next year.

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bagged89s10

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Yours looks pretty nice. I have the same saw and am pulling it apart now. I ordered the blue tires for it off ebay. I hope they are good.



Are you planning on doing the bearings? The lower wheel bearing is an oddball. I'm debating just running the one that's in it for now, but the top I am replacing. They are pretty easy.


I was going to order the blue tires from eBay but just didn't yet. Please share how they are once you install them. They bearings seem to be fine so in not going to touch them right now.
 
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bagged89s10

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Well Bud, looks like you and I are in the same boat. You got one heck of a steal on that Bandsaw. I have one that didn't have a motor for $40. It had the original fence and guide. I will be putting it on a proper stand once we get moved to our new home which will be sometime next year.

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That's awesome that you got the fence and guide. I got a craftsman table saw that I parted out and the guide off that fits perfectly. I just need to find a fence for it.
 

zkling

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I use sulpher grove for tires. They sell on ebay. If you plan on a steady diet of 1/8"+ metal cutting, especially ferrous, I'd highly recommend a heavier saw; 14" delta clone minimum.
 
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bagged89s10

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I use sulpher grove for tires. They sell on ebay. If you plan on a steady diet of 1/8"+ metal cutting, especially ferrous, I'd highly recommend a heavier saw; 14" delta clone minimum.


I'll have to keep that in mind as well. Thanks Z.
 

zkling

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Just please don't start another thread asking how to do a metal conversion. :twak:
 
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bagged89s10

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My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

I finally ordered tires for this saw so I can cut some wood with it. I put a machinist square on the blade to share how the table tilts back. I just can't tell if it's supposed to be like that or if it's worn. Hopefully someone can chime in.
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188slo50

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I must say that all you people that keep getting great deals on band saws ****!!!:mad::thumbup:

I'll be following this as I want to do the same thing with converting to metal cutting, if I ever find one for a good price. Be sure to keep this updated!
 

pharmerphil

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This is my first post so I will keep it short & sweet; I have the same Craftsman band saw, just a couple years newer. I ordered the replacement tires off Ebay over a year ago and they are working great!:)
 

theoldwizard1

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I finally ordered tires for this saw so I can cut some wood with it. I bit a machinist square on the blade to share how the table tilts back. I just can't tell if it's supposed to be like that or if it's worn.
Not an expert, but I think the second pic is more important that the first.

Finding a gear box will be near impossible. Design a stand jack shaft some you can get the proper speed reduction of the blade.
 
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bagged89s10

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The new tires came in. I just need to do a little cleanup before installing them.
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Also hoping to upgrade the upper guide if possible. Does anyone know of a not very expensive upgrade?
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nine4gmc

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Bagged, are your wheels aligned? I'm thinking if one of the wheels need shimming, that could cause the blade to run on an angle like that. Can you check it with a level on the base and table and verify it is the table that is not square?
 
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bagged89s10

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My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

Bagged, are your wheels aligned? I'm thinking if one of the wheels need shimming, that could cause the blade to run on an angle like that. Can you check it with a level on the base and table and verify it is the table that is not square?



The blade is fine. THe table leans down and isn't straight. Maybe the entire mounting surface for the table trunions/bracket is bent?
 
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pharmerphil

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When I purchased new tires, I also purchased a blade guide upgrade off ebay, I think it was $45. It made a big difference in the blade tracking. Also, there is a setting on the upper wheel, my buddy helped fixed mine, I will check with him and get back with what he did.
 
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bagged89s10

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Started working on the band saw. Cleaned up most of it and got one of the tires installed. Zip tied half of the tire onto the wheel, then just pulled the tire on the rest of the way wearing gloves. Pretty easy.
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bagged89s10

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My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

I'm not going to reprint this saw right now. The inside is almost perfect and the outside just needs cleaning. I started cleaning up the exterior with simple green and extra fine steel wool. The difference of the cleaned up left side and the original right side is amazing.
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bagged89s10

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My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

Here is the trunion assembly in question. See how it bends. Is it supposed to be like that or is it damaged. This causes the table to angle down towards the blade. I'm going to order one I found on eBay because I think it's bent.
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bagged89s10

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My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

Got the new trunion bracket and now everything is nice and square.
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GETRIDAONE

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Re: My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

I finally ordered tires for this saw so I can cut some wood with it. I put a machinist square on the blade to share how the table tilts back. I just can't tell if it's supposed to be like that or if it's worn. Hopefully someone can chime in.

You might try a washer for a shim in between the tilt mount and the table top to level it.
Clamp the wheel down on your bench before you fight with putting the bands on. I had $200 in a free saw before giving this one to my son for Christmas.

Sorry I was way late, I missed page 2 before posting.
 

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bagged89s10

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Re: My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

I finally ordered tires for this saw so I can cut some wood with it. I put a machinist square on the blade to share how the table tilts back. I just can't tell if it's supposed to be like that or if it's worn. Hopefully someone can chime in.

You might try a washer for a shim in between the tilt mount and the table top to level it.
Clamp the wheel down on your bench before you fight with putting the bands on. I had $200 in a free saw before giving this one to my son for Christmas.

Sorry I was way late, I missed page 2 before posting.



Looks like you repainted that one with a really close match. Nice work on that one. Do you remember what color you used? I want to paint mine this spring.
 

GETRIDAONE

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I used Ace brand but most machine gray should be close. Make sure and get the alum. surface very smooth or it will show every little thing with a gloss paint. I media blasted, primed and sanded the gray primer then top coat.
 

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bagged89s10

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Well I got the saw cleaned up and put back together. Just need to mount it to the stand with motor. Not too bad for a 2 night restore. I will replace/upgrade the guides eventually. The upper guides have what the previous owner had installed. One day I'll paint it and buff some of the metal. I also want to add a dc motor so I can cut metal. For now, I'll use it for wood only.

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jimreed2160

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Bagged--Your saw is looking good. Here are a few things I noticed.

1. Throat plate--Yours looks a little chewed up. I would replace it with an aftermarket zero clearance plastic one. Bandsaws are very touchy around the throat plate. If your workpiece gets snagged and pulled down it could wedge and flip. When that happens, it can cause the operator to require a change of pants.

2. Guides--Yours look tired. Perhaps an upgrade is in order. The top guide has a thrust guide on the rear. Yours is lacking its adjustment screw. In use, the guides keep the blade from deflecting sideways and backward. Proper saw tension is necessary too. The rear deflector, the circular one, should spin when the blade touches it. Proper set up requires a dollar bill to use as a clearance gauge. Make sure the rear guide and each lateral guide is a dollar bill thickness from the blade. There is a duplicate set of guides under the table and they should be set the same way.

When your saw is in use, you can use your ears as a guide. In normal use, a properly tensioned blade will track straight and cut straight. The blade deflects whenever it is unhappy. This deflection can be caused by load--workpiece is too large, too hard, or feeding too fast. It is most often caused by a dull blade. Sharp, tensioned blades are happy and track well. But an unhappy blade will deflect. Whenever it deflects, it hits the guides and you can hear the noise. Listen to this noise and you can tell which guides are talking to you. Modify your feed rate and follow the sound.

Good luck with your saw.
 

CKS1955

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Re: My vintage Craftsman 103.24280 12" Band Saw

Got the new trunion bracket and now everything is nice and square.

Glad that support bracket worked for your band saw. That part was listed for awhile.

On those band saw case I have used rubbing compound with success to restore the finish.

Jay
 
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bagged89s10

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Bagged--Your saw is looking good. Here are a few things I noticed.

1. Throat plate--Yours looks a little chewed up. I would replace it with an aftermarket zero clearance plastic one. Bandsaws are very touchy around the throat plate. If your workpiece gets snagged and pulled down it could wedge and flip. When that happens, it can cause the operator to require a change of pants.

2. Guides--Yours look tired. Perhaps an upgrade is in order. The top guide has a thrust guide on the rear. Yours is lacking its adjustment screw. In use, the guides keep the blade from deflecting sideways and backward. Proper saw tension is necessary too. The rear deflector, the circular one, should spin when the blade touches it. Proper set up requires a dollar bill to use as a clearance gauge. Make sure the rear guide and each lateral guide is a dollar bill thickness from the blade. There is a duplicate set of guides under the table and they should be set the same way.

When your saw is in use, you can use your ears as a guide. In normal use, a properly tensioned blade will track straight and cut straight. The blade deflects whenever it is unhappy. This deflection can be caused by load--workpiece is too large, too hard, or feeding too fast. It is most often caused by a dull blade. Sharp, tensioned blades are happy and track well. But an unhappy blade will deflect. Whenever it deflects, it hits the guides and you can hear the noise. Listen to this noise and you can tell which guides are talking to you. Modify your feed rate and follow the sound.

Good luck with your saw.



Thanks for the info. I used the saw to make a few cuts and made a few adjustments which helped but I don't have the right parts on hand to make the current upper guide work properly. It was good enough to help my son build his pinewood derby car.

How tight should I make the tension on the blade and do you know what kind of upgraded guides are easiest to adapt to these saws?

Here is the saw and motor mounted to the same vintage craftsman tool chest.

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jimreed2160

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Bagged--If you do a search for bandsaw guides you will get many hits and some of the kits are pretty expensive. I would start with making the guides you have work properly. You can decide on upgrading from there. It could be overkill. Here is a shot of the guides on my Jet

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I added these roller blocks on the top and on the bottom. They were not that expensive and they work great for me. You might be able to adapt them.

DSCN1475.jpg


Instead of upgrading your side guides, you can upgrade the material on the ones you have. Anything that works for the side guides is fair game. Some ww use nylon and some use wood. It depends on how you use the saw and how much heat builds up when they touch the blade. In my use, the original Delrin blocks got used up pretty quickly. On the other hand, the steel guides on my grandfathers 70 yo Homecraft are still in service.

As for tension, more is usually better. It depends on the blade. You want enough tension so the blade does not deflect easily. Start punching the blade sideways with your finger once it is installed. Do this where it cuts and be sure the guide is raised high. Add tension and keep poking. As tension is added you will notice less deflection. At some point, the tension crank will get hard to turn and the blade will be tight.

Some users relieve the tension after use and retension before use. Some don't. I have had my blade under tension for eleven years and I have not noticed any problems.
 
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