Ever since I read THIS blog while starting my tool list for A&P school, I thought the EZ Ratchet was pretty cool... and pretty hard to find! I ended up buying one from ToolFactor. Now the website seems a little sketchy, and if you start snooping around the "about" sections you'll see they aren't the most professional, "We have just one rule around here, don't be a ****, service depends on attitude," but that could be a plus depending on who you are. But to date, I received my ratchet in about a week, they sent me a UPS number once it was shipped, and nothing funny has shown up on my credit card. They beat out everybody else for this ratchet that I found by about $10. I'd probably buy again, but YMMV.
On to the ratchet! This thing is pretty cool, like on Aviationmechanic it is pretty small, the head is 1.105" wide and .775" deep from the top of the selector screw to the base of the anvil. I feel like I saw on another site it is 72 tooth, but I cant find that anymore and I haven't been bored enough to count them myself.
So here is the overall for the ratchet:
From left to right, faceplate and mounting screws, plate gasket, the o ring which fits in the anvil side groove of the mechanism. Pawl spring, anvil, and head ratchet pawl followed by the spring, anvil, and gear train pawl. The selector pin, pawl pin, ratchet ring gear, and selector switch. The bottom row shows the ratchet head, head to handle o ring, handle bevel gear, and handle.
The pawl for the head ratchet is about twice as thick as the one that engages the handle ring gear. The selector pin is keyed and screwed into the selector lever and the holes in the pin capture each pawl anvil and spring, so rotating the lever changes the side of the pawl which is being pushed by the anvil.
Here you can see the teeth for the normal ratchet function, and the T shaped slot captures the bevel gear on the end of the handle shaft. Important to note is that little hole on the middle right side of the head. That hole contains a pin which fits in the groove on the ratchet handle shaft to keep you from pulling it right off in operation. Its not an interference fit but it isn't easy to get it to withdraw either or put it back. So if the handle wont slip out, turn the head face down and tap it gently to wiggle the pin into the "release" position.
The bevel gear has a recess in the back that the key on the end of the handle shaft here fits in. Its not snug at all, there is a good amount of slop in the joint, but for what it does I suppose it doesn't make a difference.
Here is the whole handle.
If you look close, you can see the pawl pin and selector pin in the back, with the heads of both anvils visible. On the back side of the ratchet mechanism looks to be another pin like on the ratchet face which is meant to keep the selector pin from pulling out, but I cant get it to move one way or another.
Here is the half assembled selector pin with only the top anvil installed, showing the hole for the bottom anvil. The pin in the back of the ratchet mechanism I think is supposed to push into that groove to keep it pulling out, but like I said, I haven't been able to get it to move.
Here is the assembled ratchet mechanism showing the larger ratchet pawl, and the smaller ring gear pawl.
Here you can sort of see the handle shaft engaging the bevel gear, and in the tweezers is the handle shaft retaining pin, which is a real PITA to get out, and then put back in.
And here is the completed assembly, the ring gear drops in teeth down and rides on the bevel gear. The inner diameter of the ring gear has teeth which engage the ring pawl.
The ratchet feels pretty solid, and the anvil holds my Craftsman sockets nice and tight with minimal slop. It came packed with some waxy grease but after an ultrasonic wash in some degreaser and rinse in denatured alcohol everything was squeaky clean to photograph. When I reassemble I plan on packing it with some red paste of love.
As you may have noticed, there is only one pawl spring in the pictures. I was clipping the springs down because the mechanism is pretty tight and it popped ot of my tweezers. The spring I lost is OD .057 and after I clipped it .125 long, the only places that have springs at or near that size want me to buy 10 for at least 5.50 each, and I don't feel like shelling out $55 if I can help it
I hope you guys enjoy my breakdown as much as I enjoyed doing it, and I hope my pictures are good enough, this Kyocera Hydro II has probably the worst camera I've had in a while.
One thing I hope to do is press out the handle shaft and make a new one. If you look at this picture the end of the handle shows the hex end of the handle shaft. The size is a little under 1/4 but I went ahead and bout a 6" 1/4 ball end hex extension on eBay. What I plan to do is turn down and groove the extension to match the original shaft and leave the ball end and about 1/8" sticking out the end of the handle. That way in a really really tight spot I can drive it with a replaceable tip screwdriver, either by the ball from an angle or pushed all the way on if I can get at it strait. I figure this hex extension is hardened (eBay so you cant really tell) but between the tool post grinder, mill and lathe I think I can pull it off. I hope to also take out some of the slop where it engages the bevel gear. That's still in the mail though so updates may follow.
Thanks and gig'em
On to the ratchet! This thing is pretty cool, like on Aviationmechanic it is pretty small, the head is 1.105" wide and .775" deep from the top of the selector screw to the base of the anvil. I feel like I saw on another site it is 72 tooth, but I cant find that anymore and I haven't been bored enough to count them myself.
So here is the overall for the ratchet:
From left to right, faceplate and mounting screws, plate gasket, the o ring which fits in the anvil side groove of the mechanism. Pawl spring, anvil, and head ratchet pawl followed by the spring, anvil, and gear train pawl. The selector pin, pawl pin, ratchet ring gear, and selector switch. The bottom row shows the ratchet head, head to handle o ring, handle bevel gear, and handle.
The pawl for the head ratchet is about twice as thick as the one that engages the handle ring gear. The selector pin is keyed and screwed into the selector lever and the holes in the pin capture each pawl anvil and spring, so rotating the lever changes the side of the pawl which is being pushed by the anvil.
Here you can see the teeth for the normal ratchet function, and the T shaped slot captures the bevel gear on the end of the handle shaft. Important to note is that little hole on the middle right side of the head. That hole contains a pin which fits in the groove on the ratchet handle shaft to keep you from pulling it right off in operation. Its not an interference fit but it isn't easy to get it to withdraw either or put it back. So if the handle wont slip out, turn the head face down and tap it gently to wiggle the pin into the "release" position.
The bevel gear has a recess in the back that the key on the end of the handle shaft here fits in. Its not snug at all, there is a good amount of slop in the joint, but for what it does I suppose it doesn't make a difference.
Here is the whole handle.
If you look close, you can see the pawl pin and selector pin in the back, with the heads of both anvils visible. On the back side of the ratchet mechanism looks to be another pin like on the ratchet face which is meant to keep the selector pin from pulling out, but I cant get it to move one way or another.
Here is the half assembled selector pin with only the top anvil installed, showing the hole for the bottom anvil. The pin in the back of the ratchet mechanism I think is supposed to push into that groove to keep it pulling out, but like I said, I haven't been able to get it to move.
Here is the assembled ratchet mechanism showing the larger ratchet pawl, and the smaller ring gear pawl.
Here you can sort of see the handle shaft engaging the bevel gear, and in the tweezers is the handle shaft retaining pin, which is a real PITA to get out, and then put back in.
And here is the completed assembly, the ring gear drops in teeth down and rides on the bevel gear. The inner diameter of the ring gear has teeth which engage the ring pawl.
The ratchet feels pretty solid, and the anvil holds my Craftsman sockets nice and tight with minimal slop. It came packed with some waxy grease but after an ultrasonic wash in some degreaser and rinse in denatured alcohol everything was squeaky clean to photograph. When I reassemble I plan on packing it with some red paste of love.
As you may have noticed, there is only one pawl spring in the pictures. I was clipping the springs down because the mechanism is pretty tight and it popped ot of my tweezers. The spring I lost is OD .057 and after I clipped it .125 long, the only places that have springs at or near that size want me to buy 10 for at least 5.50 each, and I don't feel like shelling out $55 if I can help it
I hope you guys enjoy my breakdown as much as I enjoyed doing it, and I hope my pictures are good enough, this Kyocera Hydro II has probably the worst camera I've had in a while.
One thing I hope to do is press out the handle shaft and make a new one. If you look at this picture the end of the handle shows the hex end of the handle shaft. The size is a little under 1/4 but I went ahead and bout a 6" 1/4 ball end hex extension on eBay. What I plan to do is turn down and groove the extension to match the original shaft and leave the ball end and about 1/8" sticking out the end of the handle. That way in a really really tight spot I can drive it with a replaceable tip screwdriver, either by the ball from an angle or pushed all the way on if I can get at it strait. I figure this hex extension is hardened (eBay so you cant really tell) but between the tool post grinder, mill and lathe I think I can pull it off. I hope to also take out some of the slop where it engages the bevel gear. That's still in the mail though so updates may follow.
Thanks and gig'em