Airline ran to "sunken lifts"..

TAMPAGT07 · Apr 10, 2015

I'm planning on doing a Jack Olsen sunken style flush lift in the future, and I'm considering running an airline to the lift and have a hook-up or two to the side (or underside of the lift) or at least on the side of the bay for the lift. Has anyone done this (or considered it?) I'm thinking it would be a clean way to hook up an air tool, as opposed to having airlines laying on the ground, where they can catch and get in the way... I would run the line with the hydrolic line to the unit, and have the female connection where I coild run a coil hose from it to the lift itself, and then connect the air tool to the side/ underside of the lift... I would disconnect the coil hose from the ground to the lift before lowering it, of course.. I'm also considering running an electric line to feed some flush mounted floor lighting in the slab while I have the hole dug out to pour the bay for the lift.... Comments? Questions?

Bondo · Apr 10, 2015

Ayuh,.... The idea of runnin' air lines on the ceilin' or high on the wall is how ya control water in the lines,....

Ya Can't drain air lines run below grade,....

James E · Apr 10, 2015

I think you're on the right track--the only safe way to run PVC air lines is through a solid slab of reinforced concrete (and even then, it's a time bomb, just a time bomb with a longer fuse). Be sure to wear a cup when you work in the garage just in case that potential land mine blows up.

On a serious note, I considered in-floor fixtures pointing up under the lift but only briefly. I figured that one day they'd be obsolete and I wouldn't be able to get parts for them (scuffed lenses, mostly), they are expensive and require alot of advanced planning (which I abhor), they are easily blocked by your body or tools (put a drop light on the floor and then try to work--you will be blocking the light most of the time). I just figured that they were more trouble than they were worth.

James E · Apr 10, 2015

Bondo said:
Ayuh,.... The idea of runnin' air lines on the ceilin' or high on the wall is how ya control water in the lines,....

Ya Can't drain air lines run below grade,....

Bondo, I've always wanted to ask this... .

Do you actually say "Ayuh" before you begin sentences in real life or do you just type it?

TAMPAGT07 · Apr 10, 2015

Bondo said:
Ayuh,.... The idea of runnin' air lines on the ceilin' or high on the wall is how ya control water in the lines,....

Ya Can't drain air lines run below grade,....

Ya can't just blow them out, if the female coming out of the sidewall of the bay is at the lowest point? Or would it be a continous problem to the point that it wouldn't be feasable?

CNGsaves · Apr 10, 2015

I'd bury copper pipe in the concrete in such a way that you had slight slope down towards the pit with your lift. Include a ball valve down there on T with way to open and dump any water that gets in line.

Overall, think your idea is good. Just plan ahead for the items that will wear (like the flexing line as lift goes up and down) so that once hydraulic hose gets cracked years from now, you can replace. Thus, install unions where needed.

TAMPAGT07 · Apr 10, 2015

CNGsaves said:
I'd bury copper pipe in the concrete in such a way that you had slight slope down towards the pit with your lift. Include a ball valve down there on T with way to open and dump any water that gets in line.

Overall, think your idea is good. Just plan ahead for the items that will wear (like the flexing line as lift goes up and down) so that once hydraulic hose gets cracked years from now, you can replace. Thus, install unions where needed.

I first though of using a semi permanant coiled rubber line from the base to the lift, but I then though it would be better to disconnect the coiled line from the lift and the base after I'm done.. This way you woudln't have to worry about crushing/cutting the line when lowering the lift..

Good point about the ball valve..

Bondo · Apr 10, 2015

James E said:
Bondo, I've always wanted to ask this... .

Do you actually say "Ayuh" before you begin sentences in real life or do you just type it?

Ayuh,.... Never at each sentence, but most conversations start that way,....
or whenever I'm agreein' with somebody,....
Have ya googled it,..??
It's a Great word, with alota meanin's, though generally meanin' agreement, or acknowledgement,....

Concrete, 'n copper don't like each other, but if sleeved in plastic it oughta work,....
Constant pitch, 'n drain it regularly, ya might not have a problem,...

TAMPAGT07 · Apr 10, 2015

James E said:
I think you're on the right track--the only safe way to run PVC air lines is through a solid slab of reinforced concrete

Actually, you should never run pvc through concrete... Start out with irrigation grade (best for air) and it should be coated with glue then dipped in birdshot.. This will give you a "steel jacket" around the pipe.... :willy_nil

Beemer533 · Apr 10, 2015

Why not just run 2 or 3" pipe to pull through? You could just pull some AL PEX through for air and run whatever else you need. If you have any issues later, just pull it out and run a new line. I personally wouldn't bother burying the airline itself in concrete..

dave89iroc · Apr 10, 2015

Beemer533 said:
Why not just run 2 or 3" pipe to pull through? You could just pull some AL PEX through for air and run whatever else you need. If you have any issues later, just pull it out and run a new line. I personally wouldn't bother burying the airline itself in concrete..

I would run a 3" or better pipe to run all lines to the lift through(hyd., air release for the safety lock, etc.), include your air line in this , terminate as you see fit

404 · Apr 10, 2015

CNGsaves said:
I'd bury copper pipe in the concrete in such a way that you had slight slope down towards the pit with your lift. Include a ball valve down there on T with way to open and dump any water that gets in line.

Overall, think your idea is good. Just plan ahead for the items that will wear (like the flexing line as lift goes up and down) so that once hydraulic hose gets cracked years from now, you can replace. Thus, install unions where needed.

Copper in direct contact with concrete will corrode through. Lots of houses with forced hot water heat ran copper in the concrete floor, they all get holes and leak.

Put in some PVC electrical conduit with sweep bends and then run rubber hose in that. Don't pressurize the pvc durrrr.

Can always replace the rubber hose later if needed.

CNGsaves · Apr 10, 2015

^ ^ ^ Agree that the sleeve method would be better . . . . ie put the copper within plastic pipe. Thus, a "perfect" solution but unnecessary.

However, during remainder of OP's lifetime (or even next homeowner or two), that copper pipe for airline system to his sunken lift would NOT develop any leaks (unless from major settling, or earthquake).

Just couple months ago worked on friend's house water problems (leaky water connection to ice maker). This is 1970's house in AR with copper tube water service underground from meter up under the basement so it doesn't have any risk of freezing. I was more worried of flexing of copper causing it to crack, rather than any pinholes from contact with concrete !!

Copper has held up for nearly 50 years for friend's water service, so I'm guessing that OP's air service to lift would be fine with copper in concrete.

TAMPAGT07 · Apr 10, 2015

Beemer533 said:
Why not just run 2 or 3" pipe to pull through? You could just pull some AL PEX through for air and run whatever else you need. If you have any issues later, just pull it out and run a new line. I personally wouldn't bother burying the airline itself in concrete..

I'll probably run 2 2" lines (side by side), one for the hydrolic and one for the air line.. Hell, I could even run rubber air hose through the pvc.. When it starts leaking, just pull it through and feed a new one through...

toplessHO · Apr 10, 2015

a buddy worked for a shop that was once an old Scottys lumber yard(remember those?)
air lines were run underground and stubbed up at the columns.
They could never get dry air out of a couple of them,almost like they were tied in with city water.

homebuilt burner · Apr 11, 2015

The last shop I worked in the two post lift had a 2" pvc line ran under the slab for the power and air to the lift. I wanted another air line and just fished a 3/8" plastic airline through. Never had a problem with water in the line. I used the nylon brake line we used on truck air brake system, it's cheap and readily available at any truck shop by the foot. Yes, 3/8 was plenty big enough to run my 1/2" air gun for tires and heavy work. I knew one guy that had plumbed his entire shop with 5/8 dot brake line.

Playwme · Apr 12, 2015

How big is your shop? It makes a bit of sense in a very large commercial shop where the lift is out in the centre and there are multiple people walking around. In a small shop it seems like a waste of time. You still need a hose that will end up dragging on the floor if it's long enough to be useful, and you have to disconnect it every time you raise or lower the lift. I'd concentrate the effort onto a retractable reel each side of the shop or hanging from the roof somewhere near the lift.

TAMPAGT07 · Apr 12, 2015

Playwme said:
How big is your shop? It makes a bit of sense in a very large commercial shop where the lift is out in the centre and there are multiple people walking around. In a small shop it seems like a waste of time. You still need a hose that will end up dragging on the floor if it's long enough to be useful, and you have to disconnect it every time you raise or lower the lift. I'd concentrate the effort onto a retractable reel each side of the shop or hanging from the roof somewhere near the lift.

Only three car, and I only use it a few times a month, so really not that big of a deal... I have a pull down hose now from the ceiling and plan on adding another on the other side of the middle bay... I'm just thinking while I have it torn up, I might as well put it in.. :beer:

Airline ran to "sunken lifts"..

TAMPAGT07

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