To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

24x30x10 Build Pics

dodgeram2500

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Thunder Bay, ON
Hey all, here's my "budget" garage build. Started out by excavating and bringing in 8 dump truck loads of gravel...about 5 for under the slab and 3 to extend my driveway up to the new garage.

Garage was originally going to be a 20x30 due to gas line location, but I was able to move the gas line so it became a 24x30.
3218149927_aaee367d86.jpg


Forming/Bracing the forms...no family members were clobbered with a hammer in the process...
3219004696_207e1f932e.jpg


Wet, pack, and repeat about 5 times.
3219008858_2c62d664df.jpg


Rebar in the footings.
3218157013_4a5481dce0.jpg


Foil bubble wrap insulation stuff rolled out and tuck taped.
3218161759_bb3e86e1a3.jpg


Only one piece of rebar left to do!
3219017802_77ca6330c0.jpg


Here comes the pump truck! 19yds of fibermesh concrete used.
3219019966_45ef3a7b9b.jpg


Makin 'er nice and smooth.
3219022952_bdf683ddda.jpg


Lettin 'er cure
3219024942_6aeaf80df7.jpg


More to come...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
D

dodgeram2500

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Thunder Bay, ON
Took about 2 hours to get the prefab walls up.
3218176177_a2289cee51.jpg


Next the trusses (note the scaffold of death).
3218177699_0abeffa2c4.jpg


Trusses complete.
3218181723_dec7454959.jpg


Roof sheathing.
3219038852_e8502fb1a4.jpg


The roofing crew (buddies from work).
3218187581_2291a4edf4.jpg


Laying down shingles.
3219043958_f9a1ceca7e.jpg


Roof complete.
3218197341_3ae43807d9.jpg


Housewrap, windows, and man door installed.
3219047390_93d17761d3.jpg


Then siding and main door.
3219049374_a1b11bc597.jpg


Poured a small pad in front of garage once the soffit/fascia/capping were complete.
3219052702_64e90df2dc.jpg


And that's all I've got for now. This spring/summer I plan on getting electricity and maybe gas to the garage, as well as wiring, insulating, and finishing the inside. Also need to put a membrane on the basement foundation of the house and build a deck...It shall be another busy summer...

:beer:
 

Quiksilver

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2006
Messages
333
Location
Loveland, OH
The garage looks great, I don't want to pry,but what was the "budget" for the garage up to this point. I ask because it is almost exactly the size and height I want to build.
Thanks,
Chad.
 
OP
D

dodgeram2500

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Thunder Bay, ON
The garage was bought as a package for 8 grand...this did not include the slab of course. The package included all doors and windows and basically everything you see in the pictures. The walls were "prefabricated." 8 wall sections came already built, just put them in place, bolt them down, and install 2nd top plate to overlap the joints of the prefab walls...saved LOTS of labor.

Rented a skidsteer to excavate one weekend at $400 and a mini backhoe another weekend to move dirt/gravel around at $300.

Gravel was $1200, dump truck was fuel + $100 iirc (buddy's truck).

Form lumber $200

Compactor was 80 bucks a day, rented it 3 days.

Rebar was $1100, insulation $400, slab concrete $3600, pad concrete $500, pump truck $400

The only labor I paid for were the cement finishers (not something I wanted to try for the first time) $500, and the gas company to move the gas line (I dug the trenches but they had to physically lift the gas line from one trench to the other) $100.

Grand total of $17040 Cdn.

If you use wire mesh instead of rebar for the slab, you can cut your rebar cost drastically and you won't need a pump truck (hard to roll full wheelbarrows of concrete over suspended rebar). You also wouldn't need a pump truck if cement trucks could back to your slab from two opposite sides.

What would I do differently?
Better insulation under the slab as well as pex tubing for in-floor heating. The tubing would have cost roughly 400 bucks but would have paid for itself in one or two winters...Should've Could've Would've
 

jolakki

Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
16
That insulation under the slab is just something I never get used to when comparing to our requirements.
Here in Finland its always minimum 10cm(4inches to you americans) EPS under the slab.
I have garage of my own in the works and I will make a post about it when it gets a lil further.

Thanks for the pics, hopefully we some more in the future.
 

SeanP

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Messages
15
That insulation under the slab is just something I never get used to when comparing to our requirements.
Here in Finland its always minimum 10cm(4inches to you americans) EPS under the slab.
I have garage of my own in the works and I will make a post about it when it gets a lil further.

Thanks for the pics, hopefully we some more in the future.

What is EPS?
 

SeanP

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Messages
15
like foam insulation? How do you pour 6" of concrete on top of foam without it settling over time and cracking the slab? that's strange.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
D

dodgeram2500

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Thunder Bay, ON
From Wikipedia:

Expanded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) is usually white and made of expanded polystyrene beads. Familiar uses include packing "peanuts" and molded packing material for cushioning fragile items inside boxes. It is commonly packaged as rigid panels (size 4 by 8 or 2 by 8 square feet in the United States), which are also known as "bead-board". Thermal resistivity is usually about 28 m·K/W (or R-4 per inch in American customary units). Some EPS boards have a flame spread of less than 25 and a smoke-developed index of less than 450, which means they can be used without a fire barrier according to US building codes.

[edit] Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) has air inclusions which gives it moderate flexibility, a low density, and a low thermal conductivity. XPS is sometimes abbreviated "EPS" - not to be confused with expanded polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene material is also in crafts and model building, particularly architectural models. Foamed between two sheets of paper, it makes a more uniform substitute for corrugated cardboard. Thermal resistivity is usually about 35 m·Kelvin/W (or R-5 per inch in American customary units).

Trade names for XPS include "Styrofoam" and "Foamcore". ("Styrofoam" is often also used as a generic name for all polystyrene foams.)
 
OP
D

dodgeram2500

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Thunder Bay, ON
Sean: that was one of my worries as well...never did get an answer. A good solid base and rebaring the heck out of the slab would help. I don't know how effective insulation is under the slab (dirt insulates, right?) But around the slab would help.
 

e-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
Wow - you saved a TON of friggin cash on your build!! Even IF you factor in the insulation/drywall! I had a 24x40x11 built (not THAT much bigger) as a kit, including everthing from site prep to lights and a lock on the door for 30G's exactly. The only extra's that included where 2 16x9 doors and moving gas lines & burying all the overhead cables. Of course I didn't have to lift a finger - except to hand out a few beers!! (Not entirely true, I did the insulation, drywall and sealer coat...)
 
Last edited:

e-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
A few more notes - as afar as in-floor heating goes, it's over rated IMO. It's OK to keep the floor at a constant temp, but if you only go in there on weekends or so, you woun't keep the shop at 15C. TO warm the shop from 5C to 15 would take overnight - at least. I went with a Rennor (HotDawg type) blower with electronic start (no pilot) and it's been awesome, keeps it 5C all the time, but warms to 15C in minutes. My building is reasonably well insulated save for the gaps around the BIG doors at either end - so it's not hard to heat. I definitley should have insulated the floor though - bet that's where most heat is lost in mine.

PS - my neighbourhood has some old small momes too - did you also feel weird putting up a garage twice the size of most homes?? I did - for about 2 minutes!
 
Last edited:
OP
D

dodgeram2500

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Thunder Bay, ON
It's just a touch smaller than the house, lol! I think I am going to heat it with a 45k btu sealed combustion ng unit heater...it will always be above freezing in the garage. That's the plan for now anyway, but my mind has been known to change...

I didn't include beer and fast food in the build list, lol, probably another 500 bucks. If I can insulate, heat, electrify, and finish the inside for 5k I'll be happy. Lots of work, but worth it.
 

jolakki

Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
16
like foam insulation? How do you pour 6" of concrete on top of foam without it settling over time and cracking the slab? that's strange.

It's standard stuff here, 4inches of styrofoam under the slab.
Keeps the heat from escaping to the ground under the slab.
Unless you do that and have in floor heating, then you are actually heating the ground almost as much as your garage.

It wont compress under the weight of the slab but mine has more steel than this garage has(8mm bars with 15cm gab).

I'll post pics of my build soon so you get the idea how it's done around here.
 

mad57

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
check out ebay for the panel box i got my QO box for $107 where as home depo wanted 210. big savings there, nice shop.mike.
 
OP
D

dodgeram2500

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Thunder Bay, ON
Thanks Mike! I live about 45 min from the US border so I'll probably go on a shopping spree down there soon. Electrical stuff is MUCH cheaper in the states.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom