two for one!! 50's vintage craftsman 113 resto.

so, im apparently not that bright. or im a glutton for punishment. or both. regardless, there is definitely something wrong with me.

I have a thing for vintage tools. specifically late 40's-late 50's tools. they just do it for me.

my friends have started referring to my garage as "Crawford's home for wayward power tools". its not far off.

in October, a friend of mine was helping clear out the last barn of his departed grandfather. he couldn't bring himself to throw out the tools that none of the family wanted. he wanted them, but had no way to get them back home with him. so he showed up out of the blue to drop them off with me. I didn't even know he was in town.

the only tool he actually seemed to care about was his grandfather table saw. told me quite a few stories about him and his grandfather and that saw. he was a little teary eyed unloading it from the trailer.

now, im working in a 27x17 basement shop, that restores cars, does woodworking, fixes house stuff, etc. not a lot of spare space, especially when the 70 duster takes a full bay, and the other one is usually filled with something im building a wiring harness on. I have a 58 AMF dewalt radial arm that I also use for ripping, as its a truly superb radial arm. have not needed a table saw in years, and had no plans to get one. until this one shows up.

still didn't want it, but I hatched a plan to restore it and deliver it to his home. he has that many memories ******* with it, it deserves a place of honor in his shop.

only problem is, the saw is TRASHED. multiple coats of paint on everything, top included. loaded with **** and debris, making adjustments and use very difficult. And someone equipped it with a different motor that trips breakers, and a 7 1/4 blade. this happened sometime after his grandfathers death. he speculated one of the cousins....

anyway, here's some pics of his saw.





pretty rough, right?

so in December, I was at a mower junkyard getting some pieces for my rider. came across a forlorn, crusty and rusty 113 just like his. with perfect aluminum pieces. for 20. so I bought it as a parts saw. only to find out it was in better shape than his.

here's what 20 will buy you. this is after a lot of cleaning, replacing the cord and checking out the motor, and managing to un-seize the miter gauge with a BFH and liberal use of MAPP gas.







and this is where things go sideways.

I decided I like the idea of having a table saw, and figured out how I could make one the appropriate use of floor space. since I had two that could theoretically be brought back, why not just restore them both?

mine will be the former parts saw. going for a correct restoration (to a point. im going to mirror polish all the chrome and aluminum bits, as well as polish the top to as shiny as I can). his will be a much less correct restoration. pretty much restoring it to his childhood memories.

so I got started on mine tonight. it was cosmetically rougher, with a REALLY bad top. id read over on the GRM forum about evapo-rust, so I decided to try it. decided electrolysis was just too much hassle.

first step was to get it cleaned up real good and brought inside. Castrol super clean and some hot water took care of that.






next, wire brush the worst of the rust out of the miter slots, insert for the insert, and the top.


I really think this saw was well cared for and well maintained before it wound up outside under a pine tree at the mower junkyard. top is cleaning up way too easily for it to be otherwise, and all the bearings are still rock steady and quiet.

so now were up to evaporust. according to the jug, im supposed to spread paper towels, soak them, and cover with plastic overnight.

paper towels was easy.


to soak the paper towels:



after soaking and working out the air bubbles:


and wrapped for the night:


next time I get shop time, ill continue on the tear down and reworking the top.

That is pretty cool ��. Love to see what they look like when finished.

So, update time as I have a minute.

First off, the evapo-rust: not impressed with the paper towel method. I actually think it made things worse, not better. Ill try it again on the hardware by dunking, but I aint holding my breath.
Anyway, this is what it looked like the next morning after I removed the bag, towels, and wiped it down according to directions:




I attacked it with a knotted wire cup brush and 80 grit on a block. It’ll come out ok at the end. But I got a lot more to go before I worry about that.
Had to disassemble for cleaning and refinishing, so I started to attack it. Surprisingly, everything came apart with absolutely no issues. Well, other than the tilt adjusting wheel. That took a BUNH of effort to remove. Took it as far down as I could, other than the trundle assembly. The trundle was just cleaned up and relubricated, as there was no play, no nothing. No need to take it the whole way down.
Pics from the tear down.





Then we spent a long time with wire brushes, 80 grit, and degreaser. Didn’t see a need to remove the old finish that was still sticking well, just the rust and loose stuff.

Grabbed the Valspar rust proofing paint that I got matched to the old craftsman color and my brushes.

That was enjoyable. Turned out great, with the right amount of gloss for me. I also took this opportunity to start cleaning up and polishing all the aluminum and chrome bits. The engine turned aluminum turned out to be quite a challenge. Mothers mag and aluminum wheel polish worked too well, polishing out the turning on a few spots. Best combo was mothers California gold wax after cleaning with a coarse rag/soap water, followed by buffing with newspaper and lacquer thinner. It aint perfect, but neither is anything else ive built.





The chrome knobs turned out great. Slight pitting. But definitely good enough. Put the better of the two as the lift knob, as it’s on the front where it will be visible at all times. The worse of the two went as the tilt, where it will be hidden by the extension table. I also went ahead and cleaned, lubed, and adjusted the entire mechanism in the trunion assembly. But it back in. still need to align it to the table.


The fence rail is turning out good. You can tell in the picture which part of it I have started polishing and which I haven’t. the aluminum has some sort of grain pattern to it, which I am doing my best to leave because it looks cool. The polishing is also making the engraved measurement markings stand out very well. So I’m happy about that.


So that’s it for now. More polishing, more tweaking adjustments, cleaning/painting/motor maintenance. That’s next! Then adding accessories.

On the paper towel method -
The paper towels need to stay wet the whole time they're down. It also helps to take them off after about 12hrs (or more often depending on your mood), wipe the top down (wire wheel if you think it needs it), and then do it again.

Periodically removing the grunge and putting out new towels helps the ER get down to the bare metal in a more even way. In the end, it helps to use a fine wire wheel to clean off the residue, and get a clear finish.

If the towels dry out, they can deposit the residue back onto the surface and allow for flash rust to grow.

You'll want to wax the table as quickly as possible after cleaning the top off, so that flash rust doesn't get to the metal.

I've had good luck this this method, but while you can leave it for a while, it isn't a leave and forget process. You still have to work it.

If you're going to leave the towels on overnight so you can sleep, it can help to cover the whole thing with plastic wrap (saran wrap, cling film, etc) to seal in the moisture.


The restoration is looking good so far. I can't wait to see the finished results.

EDIT :
I just re-read and saw that you wrapped it for the night. Sometimes it takes more than one run to get the results you're looking for.

Great job so far. Keeping an eye on this.

You should have used Bounty paper towels, they're the quicker picker upper...

J/K, you are doing great! Love to see these machines brought back to glory. Did they give you a paint code for the gray or just match it up?

If you are still struggling with the top, a classic method is to get the top completely wet with your favorite degreaser - WD40, PB Blaster, etc. Even old oil could work. Then take a razor blade, fine tune your angle, and start scraping. You'd be AMAZED at how well it works and then you are left with a decently uniform surface that you can start sanding with finer and finer grits...or just go straight to a scotchbrite pad to get that 'brushed' look.

Looks pretty good so far. I've restored and sold at least a half dozen of these old Craftsman Saws and other than the time it takes, I love doing it. I would take it a step farther and polish every piece on the arbor and trunnion using a bench grinder/polisher, thats what is time consuming. On the average it would take me a month to complete the mission. I don't like using chemicals for stripping paint or rust, mainly cause it's , um usually toxic and messy and stinks, so I use an air angle die grinder and roloc discs. This is the best way to attack the table. Don't wire wheel it, that's too rough, just a medium grade disc. The engine turned faceplate was and still is a ***** for me. If they're too bad I would find one on Ebay. I started to teach myself how to do it (engine turning) but couldn't find the right bit to use. Keep up the good work and when you get the table all nice and clean, coat it with some Rustoleum Rust Inhibitor.

This was the last one:











And the first one:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3046

Awesome softail!!

sorry for the long delay in updates, guys. got a little distracted.

first, by this:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...beater-20-64-el-camino-this-time/60101/page1/

then, by these:






but fear not!! im finally back on this thing.

when we left off, I was starting to polish things. I may have gotten a little carried away.



I got the fence rebuilt, all the parts polished, and the saw assembled. got the rest of my pieces painted too. all that's left is to paint my pointers bright orange, mount the motor, do a fine tuning, and use it to build its stand. then, on to the next one.


hopefully ill get better at documenting....

Turned out really well, I am gonna be restoring a cman table saw of that vintage too. Nice to see that the top comes off of them, that is gonna come real in handy when I get started on mine since it is caked with rust and sawdust.

That came out great duster!! Can't wait to see the stand you build with/for it!

six bolts for the top to body, six for the trunion to top.

hope this is a good guide for you.

Wow! Great work!

I dream of having a shop like yours. Do a little of everything. Fix things that come in, repair old timers, restore classic pieces.
Well, at least I can dream!

dusterbd13 said:

six bolts for the top to body, six for the trunion to top.

hope this is a good guide for you.

Click to expand...

Thanks, mine is a 103.23831. Got it for free but it pretty rough missing most of that front plate where the knob to raise and lower the blade is, also got a small motor and a diy angle iron motor mount. I got a spare motor but I need to tap 2 holes in it to mount it and switch out the pulleys. If mine turns out half as good as yours it will still look pretty damn good!

long overdue, poorly documented update, version 2.0. its version 2, as the nice, detailed, well written version was just deleted by my computer. I hate technology.

anyway, when we left off, the saw was a pile of parts on the floor, that took the general appearance of what could possible be a table saw.

first step of turning it into a table saw is a blade. when I was doing furniture and cabinetry for a living (4 years since I've even touched a woodworking tool) I always ran CMT or Freud blades. this time, I tried something cheaper, as I have never even used one of these saws, so I didn't know if it would work for my style. the dewalt trim blade had good reviews, meaty carbide, and a thin kerf. I decided to try it. after a few cuts, I can say that I like the blade (not QUITE a CMT, but half the cost) and that the saw needs much more table than what craftsman gave it.


anyway, I had to finish putting my saw back together. the needles were originally bare steel, near as I can tell. I painted them orange for better visibility, and got the saw dialed in to within a few thousandths. .002 on the blade to miter slot, and .1 degree on the stops. damn saw cuts nice!





so the saw needed to earn its keep. and have a rolling stand made. the constraints of my 500 sq ft shop make things a Tetris game of amazing proportions. the saw, for storage, needs to be torn down. that means miter gauge, motor, and rip fence all have to come off. and go somewhere. as well as feather boards, extra blades, push sticks, etc. so I designed a cabinet that will hold most of those things inside, while allowing the saw to just slide under my workbench top for storage, hard up against the wall. maximizing floor space. due to the lack of area on the saw top, the carcass of the cabinet was built entirely with my handheld circular saw. I will tell you now, it aint square...

but the concept works!


to correct my top size problem, I decided I needed a set of extension wings. I was able to find a late 80's dunlap saw with a knackered trunion for $30. the 1 1/2 motor went into my spares pile, the wings went to my saw, and the sheetmetal base went into my daughters go kart. rest was scrapped.



to make these work, I decided to have them hinged. this is not as easy as I thought it was. not by a long shot. had to mill part of the flange for hinge pin clearance, drill precise holes, shim and align everything, etc. but they're on there and done, tripling my table capacity.




then I used the saw to finish the stand. well, after making a safety addition. you see, the only on/off switch from the factory s a toggle on the motor. not safe at all. so I bought a harbor freight foot switch. makes it much more safer. anyway, I built a face frame, and using some 50's NOS hinges and knob, hung a door. cabinet still needs painted, and door needs routing, but its done enough for now to get started on my shop renovation.


folded up[ for storage (except for rip fence. I clamp it to the underside of the wing by the saw body)

You sir are a rock star. You are making me want to do a thorough cleanup of my 60's table saw.

Thanks! If you want help, im down in Albemarle.

Hey neighbor. It may still be a while. First I have to finish making an open concept of our kitchen, living room. lol Afraid working on my shop is probably on next summer's list.
Or maybe this next winter.

And were back to the table saws. First one I did is still going strong. Great tool. May not be the latest and greatest saw, but has done everything I’ve asked of it so far.

Im now on to the first saw. Confusing, right? This is the one that initiated this thread. It was a friend of mines grandfathers.

I believe every tool has a story, as well as every family. This tool belongs in his family’s story, as it has been part of it all along. Im restoring it the best I can with what it is, and giving it back to him for Christmas. So….

We started here:




Heavy, heavy pitting and rust on all the steel casing, incredible oxidation on the aluminum, many different coats and colors of paint overspray, wrong blade, dead motor, top covered in rust, grime, and paint, and a long history of being a “man eater”. Looking at it, there was no way it was safe to use any time in recent history.
So, doing what I do, I decided Sunday that it was time to get this thing done. Dove right in. hit it with superclean and the pressure washer to knock some of the **** off, and moved it back inside. Started tearing it down without pictures. Found one of the knobs will not come off, as the set screw is shattered and in a spot I can’t drill it out. Also, there’s no pointers on the rip fence. Screws and pointers are gone. Throat plate is steel on this one, and there’s a gauge on how high the blade is lifted.
Half the fasteners needed cut off for disassembly. If this was a car, id think it had spent a few winters in NW PA. since it’s a tool, I’m beginning to wonder if this built his family’s beach house. I just have no idea how it would get this rusty.

Anyway, here’s some pictures of where I got to.




After wire wheeling all the loose stuff off, I got the base painted. The craftsman badge has been being worked on for a long time with paper towels, lacquer thinner, acetone, paint thinner, mineral spirits, and brake clean. Pretty much whatever was on a paper towel for another project, got wiped on the paint on the badges. You’ll see how far I was able to bring it back. But the badge is part of this saws story, so it doesn’t bother me.

I also started on the polished trim. This stuff was SO bad that I had to get aggressive. Sanded down with 320, 400, and 600 before buffing. Unfortunately, I lost all the engine turnd detail in the process. That bothers me.



Tonight will be buying hardware, seeing what I can do with the heavily corroded knobs, reinstalling the trim to base, and pulling the trunnion from the table top. Hopefully clean the top and get it painted tonight as well.

Nice work.

It is time consuming but not difficult to put the turning back on the al. A stainless wire wheel mounted in the drill press will do it. It takes patience to lay out a nice pattern though. Putting a hose clamp around the wires will keep the bristles from spreading.

Love it when youz guys put up all the pictures. Helps a know-nothing (very little anyway) like me understand what is involved in the pieces of art!

Thanks again! Joe

Very nice work.

I've restored and sold at least a half dozen of these old Craftsman Saws and other than the time it takes, I love doing it.

Click to expand...

Yes, I've also done several but after the last three didn't sell for peanuts, gave it up as a too-expensive hobby. They're solid old saws, but I can't give 'em away up here any more.

Twenty-thirty years ago, a good one would sell for $150 in one day. Now, I'm finding them for cheap-to-free and they won't sell when restored.

What are you seeing where you are?

Another FWIW - that basic saw base was made with, IIRC, 20" 24" and 28" long table tops. Naturally, the longer tables are better for serious woodworking. When looking for extension wings, make sure to measure they fit the table.

Also, the aluminum rip rail is very fragile. It's rare to find one not broken at the end. There is also an extension piece to bolt to the extension tables. Those are difficult to find as well.

These saws are so plentiful and inexpensive, for a while I was using two saws bolted together with Delta Unisaw rip rails on them. If a locking bolt is added to the rear trunnion, the blade can be squared up to the miter slots and locked in place for really accurate ripping and cross-cutting. The second saw was used when tilting was required.

jack vines