Impacts for old cars: 3/8 or 1/2? Advice?

Hello gurus of toolz -

If you had to pick one, 3/8 or 1/2 drive, to get started with an impact wrench and sockets for disassembly of rusty old mopars, what would it be?

I thought most impact stuff would be 1/2 drive, but I'm seeing lots of things like cordless impact wrenches and air ratchets and such that are 3/8 drive. What gives?

Are the 3/8 impact wrenches 'not enough' for rusty american car use, or is that a good place to start?

Or should I ignore 3/8 impact stuff and head straight for 1/2?

Opinions? Fave cordless and air impact wrenches and ratchets? Thanks!

1/2 THUNDERGUN!!!!!! HAAHAHHAHHAH

Go with a 1/2, it will get the job done much faster thana 3/8 could if the 3/8 can even handle the task. Then a 3/8 air ratchet (or impact, I got the ratchet first, I want both). The other problem is that you cant get 3/8 sockets big enough for some jobs, easily at least. 1/2 is the way to go for your first impact. www.thetoolwarehouse.net has a 28 piece deep/shalloe 3/8- 1 1/4 impact set for 160... I have it (well, half of one, I split it with my dad ha) and the quality is excellent.


You will want a smaller 3/8 tool for most general tasks. I say IR 1200 air ratchet in 3/8. Half in air ratchets are essentially 3/8's with bigger drive squares. Alot of times and impact is overkill. The 1200 is fast for a ratchet, and goes for about 120. Between these two, youll be set, and you dont need impacts with an air ratchet either. NExt, adda 3/8 imact or 1/4 ratchet


Cordless impacts are ok, but they dont have the power or speed of an air impact. They will get the job done, but trust me, air is the way to go. Having a compressor will also open up the world of air tools, but setting up for air with a good compressor is $$$


Jim

First-a word of warning-
When working with older cars for resto,you want to be real careful in the disassembly-due to rust and other corrosion,body bolts may need to be "nursed" apart instead of using brute force-use of a good penetrating oil and careful HAND disassembly will save you many ruined parts and ensuing headaches.I have seen welded nuts that were ripped out of body panels creating holes to be patched and other situations where panels were distorted by use of power wrenches.
For suspension work and major component removal,there will be times that an impact or an air ratchet will be appropriate-you have to use your judgement to decide if the parts you're taking off will stand the force to be applied.
For auto use,a 1/2" impact with moderate torque(400 ft/lbs) will probably get anything on the car apart.A 3/8" air ratchet will be handy for motor work-Remember-air ratchets are nut runners,not impact tools-the idea is to break the fastener loose by hand,then hit the trigger to spin it apart.

George

I have heard only good things about the cordless 3/8 impacts (DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch... the usual suspects). But I would agree with the others that 1/2" impacts are probably more useful. If I were in your position, I would definitely go for the 1/2" first. By the time you reosrt to an impact gun, you're gonna want so power and some heft... go with 1/2" and worry about the 3/8" when you get rich.

1/2" air si the way to go

the electric ones are weak, and 3/8 is too small for things like axle nuts, suspension bolts, etc.

Go 1/2" for your impact and for power go air. I have an IR 231 that has served me well and there hasn't been anything that I have found that it couldn't get apart yet. When I do find it I will consider getting a Thunder Gun but not yet.

I also have a Dewalt dw059 18v cordless 1/2" impact that I use a lot for field repairs. I use it all of the time when I have a tractor break down in a field or vineyard where I cant get air lines and I cant easily get the tractor back to the shop. I also use it whenever anyone gets a flat tire near my house. It defiantly isn't as fast or as powerful but it is better than doing it by hand.

i would love to have a Milwaukee 1/2 electric impact....it would be perfect for me since it would only be used on one car at a time...not multiple cars

I also have an IR 231. Very nice tool. 1/2 drive. Do not buy cheap sockets. I have had "impact" sockets from Menards(like lowes or HD) split under moderate use. For brute force and ignorance, 1/2 is the way to go. As mentioned previously, for disassembly of old cars, finesse and patience is the the rule more than the exception. Remember, an impact will break a rusted/frozen bolt faster than you will with a 3 ft cheater. You still have to extract the broken bolt.

Anybody using the IR 111 3/8 ratchet? It is supposed to be really fast at 3000 rpm free speed, but how fast is it when you are making some torque to run a nut off a stud for example?

I have a Thunder Gun and man is it loud. But it will also take anything apart!

I have the Snap-on 3/8 battery impact gun. It ain't super powerful, but man, it works like a charm. It has held up over a year and a half with my anger problems, very very tough piece of equipment. I use the **** out of it. Since it is battery powered, and not as fast spinning, a lot of the times it is more controlable then the 3/8 air gun. Especially on like a 8 mm thread (13 mm head) bolt, it doesn't just completely rip it out uncontrolably. I have gotten damn good at controling all my impacts, which comes with using them a lot. But with the smaller stuff and the 3/8 air gun, there isn't much to control, that thing is flying out.

What I would do is get a quality 3/8 battery powered gun, and a decent 1/2 IR gun. And I would not recommend the battery impacts that require the adapter to use a socket on them. I personally just don't like them.

If you bought a nice 3/8 air gun, it would do a lot of what you need, but not everything. And I wouldn't recommend an air ratchet. I bought a nice IR one, and hardly use it after having the 3/8 air and battery impacts. I know a lot of people don't like the 3/8 impacts, but I try to use it every opportunity I can. I pull transmissions with it and a big long extension. If I can't get the impact in there, I just use a normal ratchet. I do use my 1/4 air ratchet though. Nice for oil pan bolts, trans pan bolts, interior work, and a few other things. More when I need more control then what the 3/8 impact can give me on the smaller sizes (up to 14 mm heads).

That's just me though. I NEVER used air tools when I started off working on cars. Unless I was pulling off wheels. No one did at the shop I worked at. Then I moved on to the Ford dealer, and learned that trick real fast. It's not just that it's faster to use the air tools, it's just that it's easier. Less effort with same or more productivity is always better. But, I do quite a few things the "flat rate way" now, instead of what many consider the "right way." I know everyone does stuff differently, is comfortable with different things, and you'll have to figure out what is comfortable for you.

cudacharlie said:

for disassembly of rusty old mopars, what would it be?

Click to expand...

an O/A Torch?

Sorry, I'm a Ford guy so I had to take a poke!

Anyway, I agree with everyone on the 1/2inch impact. Or you could do what I did for my Mustang; buy a car from California and everything will just unbolt easily

XR7G428 said:

Anybody using the IR 111 3/8 ratchet? It is supposed to be really fast at 3000 rpm free speed, but how fast is it when you are making some torque to run a nut off a stud for example?

I have a Thunder Gun and man is it loud. But it will also take anything apart!

Click to expand...

When I was looking for one, I didnt hear too many good things abotu this one. To get the "reactionless" feature it uses an impacting action. If you have a nut with any sort of drag (like a nylock or clevelock) it will take forever to run it down because it uses the impact mechanism instead of shear torque. I went with the IR 1200 and I have no complaints. Made in Japan, lightweight, and 270rpm vs 300 with the IR111 (no bad) IR makes another 300RPM Ratchet, Dont know the number, but I have used it (the trigger is like a button) and I have used a snap on with a similar trigger set up, and the IR 1200 is my favorite. The 1200 is about the same $$$ (if not cheaper) as well.

Jim

Kartracer,

This is from the toolwarehouse web site. I guess where they list the free speed it should be 300 RPM, not 3000?

I bought the Thunder Gun from your recommendation and am very happy with it. So I trust your opinion, I have a snap on 3/8ths air ratchet that seems to be very slow. I want something that doesn't take so long to run out nuts.

Thanks, Bill B8

Ingersoll-Rand 111
Knuckle Saver™ 3/8" Super Duty Reactionless Air Ratchet Wrench
Order# IR 111

$232.00 List Price
$137.75 On Sale!
[Add to Cart] [View Cart]

• This revolutionary Reactionless Ratchet™ has a unique reactionless mechanism. It makes gearing unnecessary and it absorbs kickback when the nut runs tight.
• The fastest ratchet you can buy
• Up to 50 ft.-lbs. maximum torque
• Rear exhaust direct air away from work
• External grease fitting

Specifications:
Working torque: 10-50 ft.-lb.(14-68 Nm)
Maximum torque: 50 ft.-lb.
Free speed: 3000 RPM
Weight: 2.7 lb. (1.22 kg)
Length: 10.5" (267 mm)
Average air consumption: 4 cfm, 12 cfm @ load
Sound (pressure/power): 89.6/102.6 dBA
Air inlet NPTF: 1/4"

This is the one I have

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/IR-1200.html


Its 18$ cheaper, 10 additional ft lbs, and It may be lighter as it is has a composite shell. Also, The "throttle" on it dosnt pinch you when you press it down. I have been very happy, as I recall, its a little louder than the 111 (dont think you mind, you owna thundergun) and it uses a few more CFM.

Ive been happy, like I said, Ive used the other IR 300rpm ratchet, and the chromed head snap on with the little button for a throttle, as well as a NT/cummins ratchet. This is my favorite, no regrets.

Jim

Thanks!

I will put that one on my list. That is why i like these boards so much. You can get information that is based on experience.

IR is also on my stock list. A well run company.

For occasional use, I've had good luck with the Craftsman 3/8" and 1/2" impact guns - hardly ever use the 1/2", but it has all the power I'll ever need.

I use a 1/2" drive for general use, and I have a 3/8" drive for removing wheels. I'm planning on buying another 1/2" drive because I was impatient and bought the one I could afford at that moment which didn't have enough torque for those really rusted bolts.

I have an impact gun, air ratchet and use 1/2" drive sockets for most of my jobs. Then I have a 3/8" drive air ratchet plus a few swival sockets for them

JohnZ, I was actually considering that same 3/8 gun.

I have heard its made by IR, and its essentially the 2135 with an aluminum (instead of titanium) hamercase. I havent checked the prefix myself, but If you look there are certain markings on the tool that are identical to the IR.

Also, look where the craftsman name is on the gun... the recess is the perfect size for the IR badge. The back trigger and throttle is similar as well. Is it the same gun? Cant say for sure, but I have heard that it is.

Jim