Broken tools
- Thread starter Monte
- Start date
voidifused
Well-known member
Not mine, but have had this happen more then once, got a small sliver from one set stuck between my thumb and forefinger. That was when i bought a full set of knipex pliers and i like them a lot 
Sorry i am away doing my 3rd block of school so i can't run and grab a real picture of my own.
Sorry i am away doing my 3rd block of school so i can't run and grab a real picture of my own.
That`s why you should buy quality tools...
Some pics from my broken/defective tools collection...
share some pics of your "broken dreams/tools"
I had a few of these. Obviously made from Chinese trees.
strizzy
Well-known member
This thread reminded me that I still haven't tried to warranty an older Blackhawk tool. Ended up buying a Snap On with a couple bucks off thanks to trading in those damn 5 position ratcheting screwdrivers for a straight handle...thanks!
Rigmaster
Well-known member
I have a hammer that looks VERY similar to that one (except for the broken handle). I bought it at a hardware store in W Berlin along with a chisel sometime around 1989. My brother and I used it to chip off some chunks of the Berlin wall shortly after the reunification started.
I still use that hammer on a regular basis and it works just fine.
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
I was framing in my house and had the fiberglass handle shatter, and the head go flying by my ear and through the drywall behind me. I just got a small little cut, an inch or two over, I probably wouldn't have an eye.
I immediately ditched all of the hammers and bought Estwings.
I immediately ditched all of the hammers and bought Estwings.
I shattered a Phillips drive bit with my 1/4" impact driver while trying to drive a screw into a dense wooden beam. I had a piece of the bit hit my cheek and even though it was a small chunk, it was still pretty scary.
Those drivers pack quite a punch and are underestimated. That's why there are impact rated bits out there....which I did eventually buy before I used the driver again.
It seems as if it's really tough to even find those impact driver rated bits in a walk-in store. But I think it's important that folks understand that regular 1/4" bits are not made to withstand the forces behind an impact driver. The metal in regular bits is strong but brittle and will shatter. The black colored impact bits (black just like impact sockets) are softer grade steel but will "deform" rather than shatter.
A broken bit may not seem interesting in terms of a broken tool for this thread but I thought it was important that I share with others my lesson learned in safety. Glasses are your friend too!
Those drivers pack quite a punch and are underestimated. That's why there are impact rated bits out there....which I did eventually buy before I used the driver again.
It seems as if it's really tough to even find those impact driver rated bits in a walk-in store. But I think it's important that folks understand that regular 1/4" bits are not made to withstand the forces behind an impact driver. The metal in regular bits is strong but brittle and will shatter. The black colored impact bits (black just like impact sockets) are softer grade steel but will "deform" rather than shatter.
A broken bit may not seem interesting in terms of a broken tool for this thread but I thought it was important that I share with others my lesson learned in safety. Glasses are your friend too!
mrholeshot
MEMBER EMERITUS
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2010
- Messages
- 8,043
This is from abuse. I can tell someone has hit this hammer with a ratchet
Theloniousmonk
Well-known member
^^^
never took pics of my broken tool.
never took pics of my broken tool.
Griff93
Well-known member
Here's a few I have handy. The SO ratchet never had a cheater put on it. I bought it new. In it's defense, it put up with almost 5 years of daily hard use.
Wakefield
Well-known member
The flex head ratchet that has a handle that looks like the same one on a breaker bar--I wonder if having the ratchet head puts more stress on the fork/clevis area of that handle than a simple flex coupler without the ratchet would?
It would inspire more confidence if the two sides of the fork/clevis had a lot more meat than they do. Breaker bar or flex head ratchet either one.
It would inspire more confidence if the two sides of the fork/clevis had a lot more meat than they do. Breaker bar or flex head ratchet either one.
hammergodthor
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2009
- Messages
- 475
mspecperformance
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
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- 264
pure carnage!
tjmonsen5
Well-known member
I broke that one yesterday trying to remove a lug nut. Returned it to the store for a new one, and then broke that one too!! Thats when I got an impact socket, which ended up rounding off the lug nut. Which is when i went out and bought a lug extractor, which I had to hammer on, which ended up chewing the lug nut up really bad. Lug nut still has not turned. Tomorrow I am going to destroy it with a chisel. Never buy a car from a complete ***** who uses an impact to tighten their lugs!!
MrMark
Well-known member
This thread reminded me that I still haven't tried to warranty an older Blackhawk tool. Ended up buying a Snap On with a couple bucks off thanks to trading in those damn 5 position ratcheting screwdrivers for a straight handle...thanks!
Can you say what is wrong with the ratcheting screwdriver. I have one and am curious as to other's opinions.
tjmonsen5
Well-known member
looks like the big one in your picture. I think im gonna try using a chisel today to destroy the bolt head.
Its a BMW so the lug nut is like a huge bolt. Once i destroy the head, the wheel will slide off but i will still need to deal with the stud part of it. Guessing ill need to drill that out, which will not be fun. Worst part is, we are doing this in the college parking lot, and we live about 3 hours from home, and only have minimal tools here.
Its a BMW so the lug nut is like a huge bolt. Once i destroy the head, the wheel will slide off but i will still need to deal with the stud part of it. Guessing ill need to drill that out, which will not be fun. Worst part is, we are doing this in the college parking lot, and we live about 3 hours from home, and only have minimal tools here.
Wakefield
Well-known member
I guess you can get some Kroil or something(penetrating oil said to be better than WD40) and if you can destroy the head,that should release the tension on the threaded part of the bolt and make it relax a little bit unless it is severely corroded. It's hard to believe that a Snapon impact socket wouldn't have taken that thing off. I suppose an option would have been to have used a hand powered impact driver where you put the tool over the nut(with the proper impact socket) and strike with a hammer. Perhaps someone who knows more about this than I do will post. Old McCormic Farmall tractor had lug bolts,not nuts,on the front wheels.
djb2
Well-known member
Destroying the head won't work so well.
BMW wheel bolts have conical seat, and a flange. You'll have to go down into the conical section, and the wheel alloy is like butter compared to the bolt.
You are better off leaving as much of the bolt head as possible, and drilling through the center to relieve a little of the pressure. At some one of the thread-on wheel bolt extractors will be able to break it loose.
A moderate amount of heat might help, since the wheel light alloy should expand faster than the steel bolt.
Where I went to school it was easy to get liquid nitrogen, and there were lots of machine shops that students could get access to. You might have more resources there than you expect.
BMW wheel bolts have conical seat, and a flange. You'll have to go down into the conical section, and the wheel alloy is like butter compared to the bolt.
You are better off leaving as much of the bolt head as possible, and drilling through the center to relieve a little of the pressure. At some one of the thread-on wheel bolt extractors will be able to break it loose.
A moderate amount of heat might help, since the wheel light alloy should expand faster than the steel bolt.
Where I went to school it was easy to get liquid nitrogen, and there were lots of machine shops that students could get access to. You might have more resources there than you expect.
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I broke that one yesterday trying to remove a lug nut. Returned it to the store for a new one, and then broke that one too!! Thats when I got an impact socket, which ended up rounding off the lug nut. Which is when i went out and bought a lug extractor, which I had to hammer on, which ended up chewing the lug nut up really bad. Lug nut still has not turned. Tomorrow I am going to destroy it with a chisel. Never buy a car from a complete ***** who uses an impact to tighten their lugs!!
Try heating the lug nut with a torch then replace the lug nut.
caper
Well-known member
3/8 dr Proto flexhead ratchet:
djb2
Well-known member
Try heating the lug nut with a torch then replace the lug nut.
He likely has a lug bolt on a BMW, not a lug nut. Heat isn't as effective -- you just can't get the heat down to the threads without messing up the wheel. And getting penetrating oil down to the threads can be difficult as well.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Bent lug wrench. The lug nuts were so tight that the 1/2" impact wrench (Sioux) would not bust them loose. To break the nuts loose we had over six feet of cheater bar on this.
This happened 30+ years ago and I keep them as a reminder of what two kids with tools can do.
This happened 30+ years ago and I keep them as a reminder of what two kids with tools can do.
Wakefield
Well-known member
Any chance he still has enough stump to try another type of "damaged lug remover" socket with a hand impact driver? File/grind down the stump, hammer on/force on an undersized impact socket(which would likely get sacrificed)? Sounds like the wheel is in danger of becoming sacrificed. Another poster mentioned liquid nitrogen. Wonder if chewing gum removal aerosol for carpet- a custodian supply-(works by chilling and hardening gum-it is very cold) would chill enough to do anything at all?
Does the threaded bore for the lug bolt come out behind/back side he could try to soak the Kroil or whatever there?
Does the threaded bore for the lug bolt come out behind/back side he could try to soak the Kroil or whatever there?
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Wakefield
Well-known member
"Rust Breaker" search on www.perr.com mentions Kroil,I think they had to let it sit overnight.
(if that link works click on Technical Forum then use search box,put in Rust Breaker to see post about Kroil and some other things). I think Kroil is Carl's post.
(if that link works click on Technical Forum then use search box,put in Rust Breaker to see post about Kroil and some other things). I think Kroil is Carl's post.
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Put the heat in the center of the lug bolt. The lug bolt will cool faster than the wheel. This has always worked for me in these situations.
tjmonsen5
Well-known member
Well, used a bolt out socket, which only chewed up the lug bolt, and twisted off. I hammered it on all the way to the base of the wheel, and it still wouldnt hold.
Next i used a chisel, and ended up messing up the lug nut pretty good, but then the chisel broke.
So, we ended up taking the car to Sears, and they drilled it out for 60 bucks. Not bad i guess, it is my roomates car, and we dont have access to any good powerful tools since we were trying to do this in the school parking lot.
Next i used a chisel, and ended up messing up the lug nut pretty good, but then the chisel broke.
So, we ended up taking the car to Sears, and they drilled it out for 60 bucks. Not bad i guess, it is my roomates car, and we dont have access to any good powerful tools since we were trying to do this in the school parking lot.
djb2
Well-known member
$60 is a very reasonable price for that service.
While I love Bolt-Outs, the next time you might try the thread-on style of extractor made especially for lug bolts and nuts. They have a relatively fine thread pitch, pretty much a reverse pipe thread, not the coarse spiral of a Bolt-Out extractor. You may need to prep the bolt head first, but they can really get a good grip.
A plus of the external approach is that a broken extractor falls off cleanly. It seems that every car message board post that mentions a bolt extractor ends with "how do I drill out the broken tip".
While I love Bolt-Outs, the next time you might try the thread-on style of extractor made especially for lug bolts and nuts. They have a relatively fine thread pitch, pretty much a reverse pipe thread, not the coarse spiral of a Bolt-Out extractor. You may need to prep the bolt head first, but they can really get a good grip.
A plus of the external approach is that a broken extractor falls off cleanly. It seems that every car message board post that mentions a bolt extractor ends with "how do I drill out the broken tip".
tjmonsen5
Well-known member
I would say it was very reasonable too, because that price also included a new lug bolt.
This is from abuse. I can tell someone has hit this hammer with a ratchet
Whahht ?
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
I wish i took a pic of my Snap-on locking extension that exploded.
I wish i took a pic of my Snap-on locking extension that exploded.
And it wasn't on an impact? What drive size?
wafrederick
Well-known member
I broke a Mac 1/2 drive 14mm deepwell impact on a Honda headbolt which I used a 1/2 impact on it.The torque spec is 63 foot pounds the headbolts were really tight.Don't have it anymore,sent it in to Mac tools and got a replacement real easy.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
Nope, never went on an impact. It was a long 3/8" one. It's two-piece where an extension has the locking part on the end, held with a roll pin, the "collar" shattered where the extension goes into the locking part. I wasn't putting that much force on it but it gave way. Got a new one though!
R: the broken hammer handle, I consider wooden handles to be consumables. I've lost count of the number of wooden handles I've replaced. Axes, splitting mauls, sledgehammers, claw hammers, ball peins, you name it, I've broke it. I've got a good start on breaking the plastic handle of a old Plumb 16 oz ball pein which I'll hate since it's got such a nice balance. BTW, I saw a plastic handle sledge hammer with a broken handle in the warrenty bin at HF. The handle is plastic coated wood, and I don't have a high opinion of Chinese wood, but then the Japanese cut down every tree they could find in the part of China they occupied during World War II.
KEH
KEH
