Vinko
Well-known member
2 x 4 + 2 x 6 + 2-1/2 & 3" nails. American steel and Hilti Fasteners
Jackass method of building shelves
- Thread starter Vinko
- Start date
2 x 4 + 2 x 6 + 2-1/2 & 3" nails. American steel and Hilti Fasteners
Abodyracer
Well-known member
I don't know about that. Looks a little weak to me.
I dunno man... the uprights and the braces look pretty good, and the steel mounts to the wall should get the job done too, but I think you should have made the shelves out of 2x4s stacked on edge, like a butcher block.
Because obvious you plan on storing Sherman Tank parts on those!
Nice job. You can't overbuild shelves, or be too careful when you fasten them to the walls--especially if you've got kids, or the wife is going to store Christmas stuff on them. It'd **** to have them tip over because one of the family Munchkins climbed it to get a heavy box off the top.
-Brad
Because obvious you plan on storing Sherman Tank parts on those!
Nice job. You can't overbuild shelves, or be too careful when you fasten them to the walls--especially if you've got kids, or the wife is going to store Christmas stuff on them. It'd **** to have them tip over because one of the family Munchkins climbed it to get a heavy box off the top.
-Brad
Miter Wrench
Well-known member
They look great. They'll outlast all of us...
1320stang
Well-known member
jmo but the 2x4's laid flat to support the 2x6's back to the wall should have been vertical in my opinion.... but I tend to over engineer everything anyway.
T56 Impala
Well-known member
No, no, NO.....The shelves and supports should have been made out of 2x10s and I didn't see any joist hangers or other supports for the shelves! This will never meet code requirements. I insist you remove them immediately and call a qualified engineer to assist in the proper construction of any shelving units.
Some people.......
Seriously, that is just the way I like things, "slightly" over engineered. Very nice work. I will have to store those in the back of my brain for future use.
Some people.......
Seriously, that is just the way I like things, "slightly" over engineered. Very nice work. I will have to store those in the back of my brain for future use.
russlaferrera
Well-known member
Vinko, You started out ok, then you messed up. The steel plates on the back wall are great. This will allow the 2X4 s to slide up and down. Remove 2 ft of 2X4 s going up to the rafters to allow the wood to move. Get Chevrolet coil springs for the bottom of all the vertical 2X4 s. NOW you will be ready for the next earthquake.
Your East Coast friend Russ
Your East Coast friend Russ
Yeah, that's a good point--I like to paint my shelves with white enamel paint, top and bottom; it helps reflect light (rather than absorb it like natural wood color does), and helps prevent oil soaking into the wood.
And upon reflection, I agree with T56 Impala--should have used 2x10s. And perhaps 6x6 land scape timbers as posts.
-Brad
agree with comments about finishing wood first. I've since done the underside. As for white paint to keep things light, I probably should've just done polyurethane coating, since things get so filthy in the shop, that the white wouldn't stay white.
As for 2 x 10's, nah. Maybe next time, 2 2 x 12's instead of 4 2 x 6's across
I like old school frugality, but I also like building things strong. I don't know, I recently read some threads on a blog about shelving, and guys were bragging about slapping up twigs and OSB and I thought, why bother? I think it's fun to build something as strong as you can. The steel brackets were more for safety as I plan on the possibility of putting a few thousand pounds on each of the shelves. Or at least I want to keep that possibility open. But still, I like to build things strong, like a jack ***. My grandfather used to do stuff like this. He'd make a little wall that had no real purpose for retaining or structure or anything, but you couldn't knock the thing down. Everything would always be double whatever the code stated. I like that. There's something to be said for that type of building. Nowadays, I guess, with material prices going up, it can get expensive, but I found the prices at HD to be not bad (2 x 4 about 1.65 and 2 x 6 for 2.50 or so and the wood was better than 2 of the closest lumber yard to me, surprisingly).
Vernmotor
Well-known member
You knew you would get pick on some ! LOL Good job !
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nissan_crawler
Well-known member
Looks good. A heavy shelf will hold light things. A light shelf won't hold heavy things, might as well build it to take anything. I had somebody ask why I built my workbench so heavy...then I pointed to the saran-wrapped engine sitting on the corner of it.
"That's why."
"Why did you put it up there?"
"Because I wanted to wash the floor."
"Why not roll it outside on the cherry picker?"
"Why put it outside when there's a perfectly good bench to set it on inside?"
My family was visiting while I was putting up shelves. I was standing on the workbench putting them up when my sister walked out.
"Why are you standing on the workbench to put them up instead of getting a ladder?"
"Because I can."
"Ah, of course."
"That's why."
"Why did you put it up there?"
"Because I wanted to wash the floor."
"Why not roll it outside on the cherry picker?"
"Why put it outside when there's a perfectly good bench to set it on inside?"
My family was visiting while I was putting up shelves. I was standing on the workbench putting them up when my sister walked out.
"Why are you standing on the workbench to put them up instead of getting a ladder?"
"Because I can."
"Ah, of course."
speed bump
Well-known member
Just to make sure I know what you mean (I'm trying to picture it -- but maybe it's not that complicated), flipped on their sides?). If so, I thought about that, and sort of agree with you. I'm going to make another rack on the opposing wall and might try this .
You know how a floor is framed up? Set your shelves up like that and the load carrying capacity is whole lot better IE with the 4 part of the 2x4 upright rather than the 2 part.
If you build another shelf heres my reccomendation. Frame it with 2x4s with one 2x4 across the front and one across the back with 2x4s across every 2-3' depending on your spacing between uprights. Then instead of using 2x6s across use 3/4" CDX plywood. The CDX is hard way harder than any of the cruddy Canadian wood we see anymore for studs and in that application will hold up and look better.
Made several more. Some slight modifications. I stained (with Spar Urethane) most of them before putting together), except this one. I also modified with the jackass modification angle support via 2 x 4's betwen first and second shelf. Just in case I wanted to put more than a thousand pounds on top shelf.
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Adam McLaughlin
Well-known member
You did a great job, this was the inspiration for my own shelving and work space in my own garage. Thanks for the idea!
Adam
Adam
Do you have pics?
I just did a mini loft -- and am in the process of another. The second I think turned out not too good. The first one is okay, but rather than jack-*** good, it was jack-*** bad. I did something wrong with the whole thing and can't figure out what. But I'm tired and maybe not looking at it int he freshest of lights.