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What mistakes did you make building your garage?

Joined
Aug 13, 2015
Messages
7
Location
Evergreen, CO
I'm about to begin building a new 30x50 or 40x50 garage, storage, and auto shop with lean-to for an RV. I'm planning on putting in 30/50amp service for the RV and clean out. We learn so much from others, please share what mistakes you made or what you might have done differently. I want to hear it all. Thank you!
 
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rburke65

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Joined
Nov 10, 2007
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12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Well I installed the manifold and electric boiler for my radiant heat but I located it 60' away from my electrical service ......Dah. It just cost me a lot more $ in wire. Centralize your utilities and your loads. Good luck
 

MFortie

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Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Messages
901
Location
San Diego County
Not actually measuring my motorhome. The model is a 36' DP, but it's actually almost 38' long. The extra 4' I thought I had in my 40x60' steel building ended up being just a few inches. Also didn't realize the 40' is the outside dimension - I lost a little bit due to the columns and bracing being inside the 40' envelope.

And I guess on the same note, not putting a big enough door on the short wall(s).
 

Strouty

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Joined
Mar 21, 2010
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38,215
Location
Southern Maine
Too small, not enough outlets, not enough lights, ventilation inadequate, too small, ceilings too short, concrete not thick enough, too small, not enough overhang, did I mention too small?
 

Gerald O

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Mar 5, 2013
Messages
1,884
Location
NC
Mistake? Filling it with stuff before it was completed inside. Takes twice as long to finish inside construction due to shuffling everything around.
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,881
Location
oregon
Mistake? Filling it with stuff before it was completed inside. Takes twice as long to finish inside construction due to shuffling everything around.

Above quoted for emphasis. If you look at my build below you can see the OH door is close to the end wall. Keep 3'-4' minimum between the door and the end wall or give up most possibilities of storage along that wall if you plan to park in there. I'm also a believer of people putting to many OH doors in a working shop. Why put in a door if your just going to fill the bay with stuff. I could easily add a third door to mine if the need arose but for me that is a work bay so the door would not be a good investment at this time. It just depends on how YOU will use your building.

If you search around this site there are a few threads about with the same subject. What do you like, what would you do different are common titles or a close variant.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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LB-1911

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Joined
Sep 24, 2011
Messages
5,742
Location
Northwestern Il.
I'm about to begin building a new 30x50 or 40x50 garage, storage, and auto shop with lean-to for an RV. I'm planning on putting in 30/50amp service for the RV and clean out. We learn so much from others, please share what mistakes you made or what you might have done differently. I want to hear it all. Thank you!

Jefferson County correct?

Have you already checked w/ the Authority (s) Having Jurisdiction in regards to easements, setbacks and height restrictions?

http://jeffco.us/building-safety/
 

stikman56

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Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
3,127
I'm about to begin building a new 30x50 or 40x50 garage, storage, and auto shop with lean-to for an RV. I'm planning on putting in 30/50amp service for the RV and clean out. We learn so much from others, please share what mistakes you made or what you might have done differently. I want to hear it all. Thank you!

My shop's not done yet, but I would say do as much as you can afford. As much comfort and convienence as you can. Mine's 34x30 and going to have a wood stove for my heat, ( I have a large supply of firewood here) but it will have water and a utility sink eventually, the water line is ran to it at this point. I was limited on room due to the building footprint on this 2-1/2 acre lot if you can believe that, and running out of money at that point as well. Wetlands on one side and in the rear too and the septic on the other side where we really wanted to put the shop, and what ended up being a much bigger home than we started out to build placed for the view, the driveway etc.
Build as much as you can, I think you never regret it if you really plan to use that shop.
 

smokey0810

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Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
3,068
Location
Canyon, Texas
Would have liked to go a little higher so I could have loft storage AND insulation for heating/cooling. Just wasn't in the budget at the time.
 

Leoruiz

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Jul 20, 2015
Messages
350
Not actually measuring my motorhome. The model is a 36' DP, but it's actually almost 38' long. The extra 4' I thought I had in my 40x60' steel building ended up being just a few inches. Also didn't realize the 40' is the outside dimension - I lost a little bit due to the columns and bracing being inside the 40' envelope.

And I guess on the same note, not putting a big enough door on the short wall(s).
That was just God telling you motorhomes are ridiculous and impractical.:)
 

84bt

New member
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Jun 23, 2015
Messages
2
Location
South Texas
Make sure the drop down in the slab for the bay doors is corrected on the drawings for the door purlin and frame.
 

nehog

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Jan 2, 2010
Messages
7,935
Location
Jaffrey, NH
I really should have put in the tunnel from the house to the garage... The ability to walk to the garage in the dead of winter is important, and that 100 ft walk in snow is a PITA.
 
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gtae07

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Mar 6, 2015
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2,972
Location
Fayetteville, GA
Don't try to do all the foundation prep,framing, and electrical yourself if the only time you have to work on it is the weekend. Your wife will not be happy if you spend all your free time from December through August out back working. In particular, do not exceed your budget by 50% while doing so.

Ask how I know :eek:
 

larry_g

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Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,881
Location
oregon
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261276&highlight=door

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261483&highlight=door

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143436&highlight=door

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126255&highlight=door

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183628&highlight=door

Notice the last post the OP ask us to critique his plan. That is a much easier way to get input on your project. You'll notice that a lot of the threads are started by newbies and they are to general in scope. Put up your ideas and plans and you will get much better input.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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James-W

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Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Messages
12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
I didn't make any mistakes when I built my garage, but there are a couple things I would do a little different if I had it to do over again.

For example, I would install the electrical service on the side of the garage rather than on the front. It's not a big deal where it is, but I think it would look better if it were on the side rather than on the front.

Another thing is, I would have put a little larger gutters on the garage because right now when leaves get into the gutters they have a tendency to clog up the down spouts. Again, not really a mistake, but it would have been a little better if I had gone with larger gutters. I suppose I still can, they don't cost that much money to have them replaced.
 

jask

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Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
314
Location
Gods Country, B.C.
Add a dedicated circuit with a relay that is switched by the lighting circuit to run your compressor. Think about low voltage systems like security smoke/fire detectors..alarm, CATV internet etc. Ceiling height? will you need clearance for a full height lift? My dream shop will have a dedicated room for the compressor and Dust collector. If possible having a sink and shower is worth the work, and I really like the idea of a small porch area outside the man door- you can have a break/beer/lunch out there in any weather and might keep the snow clear right in front of the door.
 
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Schurkey

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Oct 27, 2011
Messages
2,369
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
Contractor building my garage asked me if I wanted a window. I had windows in my previous garage, and spray-painted the glass so no-one could look in on me or case the joint while I wasn't home. I told him "no window".

Garage is finished in early summer. Hottest summer in years. I have no window to put a window A/C unit into. I had to open the sheetrock, cut-out the siding, rip out insulation, and build a window frame before I could get heat relief.

As inexpensive as window A/C units have become (Chinese junk) it pretty-much doesn't make sense to plan a shop without one. I go years at a time without using it--but when I need it, it's essential.

Contractor insisted on using a certain local subcontractor for gutters. I told him not to hire these folks, they've screwed me before, they're incompetent, they're lazy, and I don't want them on my property. Guess who gets hired? I had to tell the guy that the way he was planning the gutter system, my sidewalk would be an ice-rink in the spring and fall on the one side of the building, and the gutter spout will violate city Code on the other side by running onto my neighbor's property. He elbowed and twisted the spout to comply with code on the one side, but I had to rework the other side myself.

I tell the contractor that I want the person-door at the back of the shop hinged so the door opens outward. He installs a door with removable hinge pins accessible from outside, so thieves can pop the pins and open the locked door in about thirty seconds.

Contractor asks me what color I want for the steel siding. I tell him to "match the house". (Duh!) He installs the siding--a close-enough color match to the house, but the laps are half as wide. I now have narrow-lap siding on the garage, but wide-lap siding on the house.

I hand the electrician a schematic for wiring the garage. There's two groups of three-way switches, one beside the overhead door, and one beside the "people door". He installs some of the switches in the group by the overhead door upside-down, so that some switches are "up" and some are "down" to turn all the lights on or off. He didn't give me a chance to paint the plywood that the circuit-breaker box attached to. Also, I forgot to install an outside light by the "people door", so when I close-up shop for the night, I have to walk to the house in the dark.
 
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bmxdad

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Joined
Feb 18, 2014
Messages
2,539
Location
Puyallup, WA
Go as high as you can, and as big as you can.

I regret not going higher, which I could have if I would have paid attention to the regs.

Ceiling insulation, which is put down before the roof panels. Go bigger if you can.
 

Steves32

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Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
845
Only one. Didn't run Cat5 to garage. Ran coax but no Cat5. Stupid mistake.
 

tyjoja

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Joined
Mar 24, 2011
Messages
138
Location
albany ore
built 30 by 36 three car with 9 foot sides and scissor trusses with 10 foot door in middle and 8 foot high on the sides. Made the center door 10 foot wide and the outside doors 8 foot wide. Should have made outside doors 9 foot wide... little tight when pulling in.
 

GYPSY400

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Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
517
Location
Naughton Ontario
Mistake? Filling it with stuff before it was completed inside. Takes twice as long to finish inside construction due to shuffling everything around.


I have this very same issue.. Along with doing jobs and getting oil on the floor before it was epoxied.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

2CRUZ

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
526
Location
Southern Illinois
I made only one mistake I let the contractor tell me that coustom rafters would coast me a whole lot more. Now I only have 9ft. ceiling not high enough for a lift
 

kerr

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Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
151
Location
S.E. Oklahoma
Yep , go higher ! I had to take my whole roof off of my 30x40 and raise it to 16' like I should have and was told to do at first . Stacks on Peterbilt were 13'6" . Lots more air moving around and not so hot in the summer months . I dont heat it anymore but have a Volgelzang kit for 55 gal. barrel that worked just fine . Go Higher !
 

buening

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Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
1,338
Location
Decatur, IL
Not a mistake but more in-line with glad I did was utilize 2x6 framing. My builder said the price was basically the same for 2x4 on 16"cts and 2x6 on 24" cts, with the exception for a few extra hundred bucks for the extra insulation thickness. The building will be more rigid, better sealed and insulated, and more depth for deep electrical boxes (allows insulation behind deep boxes).

Also look into storage trusses if you want to put things up there. It was an extra $100 for storage trusses that had higher dead load ratings.

Finally, plan out your TV and speakers if you want things concealed. Not running HDMI/CAT6/COAX wires to your house can be a pain after the walls are drywalled and siding is installed.
 

Crazyjake8493

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Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
3,966
Location
Upstate NY
Future-proofing. If you think you'll ever need it, or might want it, it's usually a lot easier to do while building than to retrofit. Think of everything you possibly can ahead of time, and plan accordingly during the build.

If you're running underground conduit, you can never have to many extra runs sitting there empty. You never know what you'll need to pull through there someday. And put pull string in while laying the conduit, or have a fish tape ready when the day comes to pull something.

On my shop, I ran romex in all the walls/ceiling for lights and receptacles. If I were to do it over again, I would insulate and finish the walls right away, then surface mount everything using EMT conduit and pull separate THHN conductors. Makes it a lot easier to change things later on if needed. Just my opinion.
 

matt_i

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Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,728
Location
SE Michigan
I wish I would have dug the foundation trenches wider. The water would have been less deep when it rained and I would have more room to strike off the footing forms, and build the wall forms. I ended up chiseling a lot of concrete out of a narrow gap between the dirt and the outside of the footing form, so I could strip the forms. In this particular calendar year, I wish I would have had installed an automatic sump pump in the trenches :)
 

My Old Tools

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Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
5,438
Location
Hamrick Lake, TX
My contractor used the roll insulation over chicken wire in my metal building. After this summer I'm thinking seriously about AC. Foam insulation would have been a good investment with AC. Other than that, we all wish it was bigger.

I just finished running EMT and wiring, 20 amp plugs every 5 feet all the way around. Alternated 3 20 amp circuits so no adjacent plugs are on the same circuit. 220 30 amp every 10 feet or so. 3 phase still to be plumbed, just by the RPC for now.

Used Costco 4foot LED fixtures and like them so far. You can put about 60 of them on a 15 amp circuit if you so desire because they pull almost no current, and generate little heat.

Love the stand up loft, but don't let a guy 6' 4" build your stairs when you are 5' 8". I can barely reach between the treads. Those will get cut out and re-welded when I have time. I built 12 foot side walls and 8/12 pitch roof. Love both. 22 feet high in the center. 10 foot under the loft and still over 10 feet ceiling in the loft.

Repeat, don't move in until you are done. Running EMT on the ceiling for lights was a pain. I had a man lift, but moving heavy equipment out of the way to use it sucked.
 
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