To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

DIY Magnetic Hole Plug Welding Backer

Vegaman_Dan

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
2,453
Location
Pacific, WA
Why reinvent the wheel?

Because the wheel costs $40 and I can fabricate my own for less than $10!

I have need to weld up some holes on a firewall. I have a copper backer for areas I can reach, but if I want to TIG weld stuff, then I will need both hands and that means making a mount that can hold a bit of copper flush behind a hole. There are commercial models from Eastwood and others, but they are a bit pricey:

http://www.eastwood.com/magnetic-hole-plug-welding-tool-not-for-gas-welde.html

At $40, I figured I could fabricate something that would work as well, if not better for my needs. I doodled out a sketch, went to the hardware store for some copper pipe end caps and discovered I could make one for less than $10, or 2 for about $15. Okay! Let's do this thing!



Using the copper end cap like a piston, I was able to fabricate up the mounting arm pivot mount, and a tensioner adjustment. The wide round magnet mount was a hook that I unscrewed and then drilled out the mounting to let a normal 1/4" bolt slip through for a mounting point.

I've tested the fit in some of the holes I'll need to weld up and it works great! The copper sits up flush behind the holes and there is enough tension to hold any MIG or TIG operation against it without the magnet lifting. It also keeps the magnet far enough away from the heat that it won't get destroyed. Even if it does, it's only a couple of bucks to replace.

Making your own tools and jigs can be as rewarding as working on the project itself. You can look back at it and say, "I made that."
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

toolchaser

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2008
Messages
803
Location
Greenville, GA
Nice work! Offsetting the magnets from the weld area is very important. I was using a really strong magnet to hold a copper strip on the backside of some 18 ga. I was filling some holes in. It made the arc from my mig act like I forgot to turn the gas on.
 

TauntDevil

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2014
Messages
194
Location
Mesa, AZ
Sorry but I am going to have to steel your idea. Hate having to wait for a friend to come over so I can weld a gap or something since most of the time, I cant reach around where I am welding to get to the back side (like on a back seat, etc). This is great. Hope you dont mind if I copy it!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

altersaddle

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
349
Location
Victoria, BC
I like it! I, too, need to fill many holes in 20ga Triumph sheet metal.
Maybe a variant with a regular steel foot would also be good - could be fastened with a cleco or a clamp.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
The holes are about 1/2" right? Nice job but you have 100 times more time in that than just welding up the hole. You don't need a backer if you go slow with the TIG. Or even the MIG. I never used one but that doesn't mean I'm right. I don't like to introduce any more heat to a panel than the smallest I can get by with letting each pass cool down.

Still, don't get me wrong. Very clever idea. Thanks for sharing.
 
OP
V

Vegaman_Dan

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
2,453
Location
Pacific, WA
The holes I'm working with are 3/8" or smaller, and I plan on using some washers that fit nicely inside to do the bulk of the fill, but even then, there are still areas where you need to have a backer (seams, gaps, etc) and you just can't hold both tools at once.

With a replaceable foot or shoe at the end, you could make up several different ends- a pick, wedge, or whatever custom shape you want.

One mod I'll make now that I have them built is to cut down the adjuster / tensioner bolt. It doesn't need to be that long- I made it overly long and figured I would trim it to length once assembled. I had toyed with the idea of a plastic handle, but it might absorb heat over long usage and not something I want to touch with bare fingers.
 
OP
V

Vegaman_Dan

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
2,453
Location
Pacific, WA
For holes that size why wouldn't you make a plug to fit the hole first? Seems like an awful lot of fill to bridge that size hole.

I plan to fill the larger holes with washers that fit quite nicely in place, which leaves a much smaller hole to fill in the middle.

The tool is meant to address all sorts of sizes of holes or backing needs.
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,492
Location
visalia ca
Very nice.
I have a couple of the commercial versions of what you made and they work well.
The ones I bought I think we're about $27. The old school way which I still use sometimes is to tape the copper sheet to the back side. This is good for a curved panel so I can put the same curve into the copper.

For fill plugs I like to punch them with my little chineeeese copy handheld Rolex punch. Often I can fit them in the hole and then use the TIG ro fuse them in place with little to no filler

Bob
 
OP
V

Vegaman_Dan

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
2,453
Location
Pacific, WA
For fill plugs I like to punch them with my little chineeeese copy handheld Rolex punch. Often I can fit them in the hole and then use the TIG ro fuse them in place with little to no filler

Bob

Tell me more about this Rolex punch? Different die sizes?
 

arrowhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Messages
681
Location
Stillwater, NY
One mod I'll make now that I have them built is to cut down the adjuster / tensioner bolt. It doesn't need to be that long- I made it overly long and figured I would trim it to length once assembled.

I would leave them be - unless they get in the way. You won't always have a flat surface to clamp on and the longer eye bolt will give you more mounting flexibility on uneven surfaces.

BTW those are awesome!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom