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Cutting hole in ceiling.

dollarz81

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Feb 1, 2009
Messages
10
I want to install a hoisting system in the attic, so I need to cut a hole in the floor. The hole will be 3'x4'. I need to cut two of the 2"x8" boards to make the hole shown in the pictures. Is it OK to cut these or should I do some bracing? They don't seem to be structural, but I'm no contractor.

100_1404.jpg

100_1405.jpg
 
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Torque1st

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Some more pictures of the roof and ceiling structure with descriptions and location with respect to the rest of the structure would be nice.
 

Dogberry01

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Dec 21, 2008
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Danielson, CT
I installed 2 10' pcs. of deep unistrut to span the top of the rafters and then mounted my winch with all thread through the sheetrock and anchor it to the strut. That way I was spreading the weight along 10' instead of just one or two rafters.
 
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38Chevy454

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I am not any type of construction engineer, but I would run some doubler pieces along the outside of the joists you have for the outer frame size. Maybe even two doublers, longer is better. Then box in where you cut out so those pieces cut can distribute their forces to the reinforced outer pieces.

Hope that makes sense. You need to keep those joists tied in, and the outer frame pieces need to have reinforcement.
 

e-tek

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I am not any type of construction engineer, but I would run some doubler pieces along the outside of the joists you have for the outer frame size. Maybe even two doublers, longer is better. Then box in where you cut out so those pieces cut can distribute their forces to the reinforced outer pieces.

Hope that makes sense. You need to keep those joists tied in, and the outer frame pieces need to have reinforcement.

I'm with 38Chev (but I'm a FORD man!). They are rafters - so definitely structural! TO make your hole, I'd cut them out and afix them to a boxed-in structure for your hole. Of course you need to end up with a 3'x4' hole, so cut them back adding in 2 thicknesses of 2x4 or 2x6 (whatever will to span the thickness of your roof). Box in the entire hole and use 5 or 6 inch screws in pre-drilled holes. As it looks like you'll be walking around on all sides, I might even suggest you add some cut pieces between the rafters about 6" back from the hole. Stagger them so you can get 5 or 6 inch screws in the ends of each.

Hope that helps - I'm guessing others will chime in shortly - keep the pics comming!
 

BillK

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Beautiful Southern Maryland
dollarz,
Not sure what you are trying to hoist up into the attic, but you might want to make sure that the structure is even designed to hold a lot of weight period. Like the others said, some dimensions and more pics of the entire attic would help. You might want to even post your question on the FHB forums but they tend to be a cautious bunch and will probably tell you to have an engineer look at it and tell you the best way to go.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?start=Start+Reading+>>
 
OP
D

dollarz81

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Feb 1, 2009
Messages
10
Thanks for all the help. I talked to a buddy who used to be in construction and he agrees with your ideas about a boxed in structure. I just need a hole like I was gonna put in another attic ladder. It will only hoist no more that 200lbs, and that is pushing it. The wife had totes full of clothing and other items she stores and it is a pain to lift them up the attic. Plus I have a small table saw and a small welder I would like to store in the attic.
 

e-tek

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dollarz,
Not sure what you are trying to hoist up into the attic, but you might want to make sure that the structure is even designed to hold a lot of weight period. Like the others said, some dimensions and more pics of the entire attic would help. You might want to even post your question on the FHB forums but they tend to be a cautious bunch and will probably tell you to have an engineer look at it and tell you the best way to go.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?start=Start+Reading+>>

Nothing personal and I'm typing with a smile/smirk on :) ....but I'm the official "F@CK the engineer" committee here at GJ:bounce:. You don't need an engineer to look at it. You need a brain. I think Dallarz has one. The only thing I'd agree that one should get an engineer to look at is making MAJOR changes to your roof line or home structure.:thumbup:
 
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