Critique my Hot Dawg Install/questions

Mr. Roboto · Oct 26, 2015

Got my Hot Dawg installed and vented over the weekend. I have not run it yet, because the gas company needs to come and hook up a propane tank. I also need the inspector to come and sign off on the permits I've pulled for this.

Unit Hanging

Interior Venting (I have not fastened the fire break into place yet)

All pipe is Simpson DuraVent B Vent double wall pipe.

Roof Venting:

According to the DuraVent instructions, they require no sealant at the seams....should I add some just to be safe?

My big question is on the electrical wiring. The instruction manual for the heater was very detailed in all aspects of the installation, aside from this. Can I just wire a standard 110 plug to the leads in the unit and run an outlet above the heater and plug it in? Or does the unit need to be direct wired with BX or similar wire?

Thanks!

wes73 · Oct 26, 2015

Looks like a nice clean install. What size is that and how big of an area are you heating? Are you installing a remote thermostat for it as well?

As for the electrical connection, wire a dedicated circuit and connect it from the outlet box via an appliance whip so that it is hard wired. I would also installed an emergency shut off (20 amp toggle) switch just below it with a red face plate that says Gas Appliance Emergency Shut Off. I am in the process of installing one as well and this is what I did.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 26, 2015

wes73 said:
Looks like a nice clean install. What size is that and how big of an area are you heating? Are you installing a remote thermostat for it as well?

As for the electrical connection, wire a dedicated circuit and connect it from the outlet box via an appliance whip so that it is hard wired. I would also installed an emergency shut off (20 amp toggle) switch just below it with a red face plate that says Gas Appliance Emergency Shut Off. I am in the process of installing one as well and this is what I did.

It's a 60K BTU heater, and the garage is 26 x 34.

Great idea. I was leaning towards the plug route for simplicity sake, but the more I read, I think these things really have to be hard wired. I'll run Romex from my panel across the ceiling to a box where I'll have the appliance whip exit. I can also run a piece of conduit down along next to the gas line on the quick strut I have mounted to the wall to another box with the shutoff switch.

I like it, thanks for the input!

Rod N · Oct 26, 2015

I ran BX to a wall switch so I can turn it off for the summer or maintenance.

Nice install. Seems a bit close to the ceiling.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 26, 2015

Rod N said:
I ran BX to a wall switch so I can turn it off for the summer or maintenance.

Nice install. Seems a bit close to the ceiling.

The manual said there is only 1" clearance required from the top of the unit. The brackets have the 1" built in to them, so you could technically flush mount it. If I ever find it being an issue with the heat staying too high up, I can add in another 1' section of B vent and extend the rods. Time shall tell. My ceiling is only a little over 10' anyways so hopefully it's OK.

wes73 · Oct 26, 2015

what is your ceiling height?

Mr. Roboto · Oct 26, 2015

wes73 said:
what is your ceiling height?

10.5 feet give or take a few

wes73 · Oct 26, 2015

What is the distance from the heater to your lights? I'm gonna have almost the same setup in regards to tight to the ceiling in a corner facing a row of lights. Do you have any concern about that much heat close to them?

Mr. Roboto · Oct 26, 2015

Not sure how close exactly. I can measure this evening.

I'm not too concerned though, I'm hoping the adjustable fins will be do a good job diverting the flow, but we shall see.

SteveeP · Oct 27, 2015

I essentially flush mounted my hot dawg (L brackets against the ceiling, 10.5ft) and have not had any issues with it.. and it was inspected.

deckmonkey · Oct 27, 2015

Everything looks great, the only thing I don't see is a drip pocket for the gas line. I didn't think you could run romex exposed or only a short run. Maybe someone can tell you the code on that.

The brackets for reznor heaters are only one inch from the ceiling as well.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 28, 2015

SteveeP said:
I essentially flush mounted my hot dawg (L brackets against the ceiling, 10.5ft) and have not had any issues with it.. and it was inspected.

Awesome, thanks for the info!

deckmonkey said:
Everything looks great, the only thing I don't see is a drip pocket for the gas line. I didn't think you could run romex exposed or only a short run. Maybe someone can tell you the code on that.

The brackets for reznor heaters are only one inch from the ceiling as well.

There is a drip leg on the line, you can see it in the picture below.

Where do you see exposed romex wire?

I got the electrical and thermostat wire run for the heater last night. The armored cable on the left is the power and the black cable on the right is for the thermostat. I (obviously) haven't wired it into the heater yet. It got late...

vekster · Oct 28, 2015

Nice looking install.
I need to get one of those out in my garage!

CNGsaves · Oct 28, 2015

Looks good EXCEPT the black pipe steel drip leg (ie for propane). That is incorrect. Needs changed so flow of LPG is forced to change directions and drip leg is BELOW that change. Thus, change T and force LPG to go UP out of T and over to heater with flex pipe.

rlitman · Oct 28, 2015

CNGsaves said:
Looks good EXCEPT the Natural Gas drip leg.

Re read the first post. He's hooking up to propane.

Todd.Brock · Oct 28, 2015

Good looking install. Does a drip leg require the gas to change directions to be most effective? I always thought it had to have the gas coming in from the side of the Tee and then the drip leg on the bottom and gas exit on top? Only curious... Not saying it s wrong. That is a sharp looking install!

EDIT. IGNORE ME

Looks like someone else mentioned it while I was typing !

Mr. Roboto · Oct 28, 2015

Thanks for the feedback, will this work?

Pardon the crude drawing!

rlitman · Oct 28, 2015

Mr. Roboto said:
Thanks for the feedback, will this work?

Pardon the crude drawing!

Yes, exactly!

dfiler2 · Oct 28, 2015

Mr. Roboto said:
Thanks for the feedback, will this work?

Pardon the crude drawing!

Without a direction of flow this might be confusing, my understanding is the valve needs to be before the drip leg to allow the gas to be shut off and the drip leg cleaned, is that not correct?

Mr. Roboto · Oct 28, 2015

This shows the direction of flow: If I understand you correctly, the valve is before the drip leg.

dfiler2 · Oct 28, 2015

Yes, in order to clean the drip leg you need to shut off the gas first without affecting the whole system.

2009 IRC G2419.4 (408.4) Sediment trap. Where a sediment trap is not
incorporated as part of the appliance, a sediment trap shall be
installed downstream of the appliance shutoff valve as close to
the inlet of the appliance as practical. The sediment trap shall
be either a tee fitting having a capped ****** of any length
installed vertically in the bottom-most opening of the tee or
other device approved as an effective sediment trap. Illuminating
appliances, ranges, clothes dryers and outdoor grills need
not be so equipped.

dfiler2 · Oct 28, 2015

Mr. Roboto said:
This shows the direction of flow: If I understand you correctly, the valve is before the drip leg.

This drawing with the direction flow shown would not be correct, at least that is my understanding.

danski0224 · Oct 28, 2015

Mr. Roboto said:
Roof Venting:

That is, most definitely, the wrong type of roof flashing.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 28, 2015

dfiler2 said:
This drawing with the direction flow shown would not be correct, at least that is my understanding.

OK, I understand now. I can correct this.

danski0224 said:
That is, most definitely, the wrong type of roof flashing.

Can you please elaborate?

danski0224 · Oct 28, 2015

Mr. Roboto said:
Can you please elaborate?

The flashing you used is for a pipe or vent roof termination, most common use for residential work is to flash a plumbing vent stack. It has a rubber top to seal around the pipe.

B bent is supposed to have 1" clearance to combustibles, so it should not be touching rubber (or the roof deck, depending on how big of a hole you cut).

You used Simpson Dura Vent, so google the details from their site. The proper roof flashings will be shown, although they may not be readily available in the big box stores.

Another DIY install.... :shocking:

Mr. Roboto · Oct 28, 2015

That flashing specifically stated that it could be used for b vent pipe. It's a "caulkless" flashing with rubber that's rated to withstand the heat generated by the b vent pipe, therefore the rubber is not considered a combustible. And yes, there is a 1+ inch clearance hole cut through the roof decking to give the pipe the proper clearance.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 28, 2015

Here is the submittal for the flashing I used:

http://www.oatey.com/doc/All-Flash_Flashings.pdf

danski0224 · Oct 28, 2015

Mr. Roboto said:
Here is the submittal for the flashing I used:

http://www.oatey.com/doc/All-Flash_Flashings.pdf

Never would have believed it without seeing the PDF specs.

That said, I prefer the standard metal flashings. There is no rubber to deteriorate and they are quite a bit taller.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 28, 2015

I cant argue with you, I do prefer the full metal flashing as well. This is my first time using this type. The supply house was out of stock on the metal ones, and I really needed to get the install done this weekend.

I went one step above what the manufacturer recommended and added a storm collar above it to the vent as well. Hopefully this will help with the longevity of the rubber in the elements

Mr. Roboto · Oct 29, 2015

I have corrected my gas pipe based on the recommendations in this thread. Here it is in its current state:

Edit, I apologize, not sure why it's sideways! Rotate it 90 degrees to the right in your brain

Todd.Brock · Oct 30, 2015

Ok. So we are learning something together here. There has to be a shut off prior to the drip leg and after?? I could see the one before the drip leg, but I fail to see the purpose of two. I read the code book above and saw it says a cut off prior. When I plumbed my gas stove, I followed the direction of existing Water Heater and furnace, which I think Only had one shut of upstream of the drip.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 30, 2015

I interpret the code as you are required to have one before the drip leg as you stated. The only reason I added the second shot off after the drip leg was for the purpose of the pressure test. I wanted to be able to pressure test the drip leg portion of the pipe as well, so by closing the valve at the end of the system and opening the one before the drip leg, I can pressure test the piping in its entirety. Basically, I think it's above and beyond.

We'll find out at 1pm today, the inspector is coming haha. Fingers crossed.

dfiler2 · Oct 30, 2015

I think you got it, let us know what the inspector says.

CNGsaves · Oct 30, 2015

OP . . . looking good !! :thumbup:

You'll be enjoying heated garage in no time.

PittsS1 · Oct 30, 2015

Nice job. How does the cap on bottom of your B-Vent tee attach? I have the same setup, but can't decide how to attach the cap- it fits over the inner pipe, but is a real thin piece and doesn't lock in.

Was thinking I'd just use my high temp silicone, but then it'd be very hard to remove. What did you do?

Thanks

Mr. Roboto · Oct 30, 2015

It actually comes like that. It's not a regular tee, it's a clean-out tee.

Take a look here:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent...CwgvtsWwT9liCqKN2gUuEaAq-s8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

It's essentially a regular tee that comes with the cap. You can purchase just the cap and add it to a regular tee as well, but your inspector may or may not sign off on it, since it then won't be an actual UL listed cleanout tee.

http://www.efireplacestore.com/cpf-...A1UqlfO2ZbbX38aAszO8P8HAQ&refnum=OCT-182-5167

I definitely would not just silicone a regular cap in place, it needs to be a serviceable connection.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 30, 2015

Inspector just left. The pipe passed! It held 15psi overnight so I was fairly confident it would.

He did a quick preemptive look at the heater install as well...said it all looked great. He just needs to come back and see it running for the final approval and I'm home free

Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated.

wes73 · Oct 30, 2015

Awesome! That is a nice clean install.

Todd.Brock · Oct 30, 2015

That makes sense!! Congrats on passing the inspection.

Mr. Roboto · Oct 31, 2015

Thanks guys!

Sorry, I did not realize how small that picture was. Here is a better version, so anyone who may stumble upon this thread in the future can see how I did it.

Critique my Hot Dawg Install/questions

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member