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MiniLathe needs Toolbox needs custom top needs new router to build it...

soj

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A little background on what got this project started:

I have long thought I wanted a mini lathe, but never seemed to really NEED one (not that it should matter :D). But last month something broke and I could not find a replacement, but decided I could make one (8 actually) if I had a lathe. It is just little plastic rollers for my wife's greenhouse doors, but it was all the excuse I needed. :evil:

The original cracked plastic on the right, and my first attempt at machine work on the left. The little threaded hub was swapped out from the old bearing:
P1070347.jpg

I found new bearings to go in them. The penny shows why I only needed a mini lathe. The new rollers are installed, the doors are working fine, and all her plants are snug and warm in their little house. :rocker:
P1070346.jpg

When I first got the lathe (a Grizzly G0765) I just put it on an existing workbench, but even though it is small, it didn't leave much working room on that bench. I felt I had no choice but to get a HF 13 drawer, 44" base cabinet to put it on. What else could I do? It comes so highly recommended on GJ.
P1070342.jpg

Of course, as you can see, it takes up most of the top space of that cabinet, so I had to get two 7 drawer side cabinets to really have any "working" room
P1070405.jpg

The lathe doesn't come with any tooling, so I had to place an order with littlemachineshop.com. They had the blue denim cover, so I figured, why not?
P1070403.jpg

P1070404.jpg

Also, the Bondhus T handle sets were called for, since the lathe has lots of allen head screws. On the lathe, they are all metric, but the quick change tool post I got from littlemachineshop.com is USA made, and fractional, so I had to get both sets. Those came from shopenco.com during the black Friday 25% off/ free shipping sale.

Somehow that HF magnetic spray can holder and tool tray got in my shopping cart. It is amazing how one little repair job can mushroom into multiple tool purchases. :headscrat

As you can see, the three chest combo doesn't give a smooth, uninterrupted work surface. Also, the rubber mats that come with the boxes are ****. A bottle of cutting fluid left a ring that swelled up like a balloon. I suppose that HF store stink really is a sign of cheep rubber. I remembered this thread (and others that I can't find now), where guys put wooden tops on their base cabinets. That provided the solution, or at least the seed idea. I decided laminate would be a good option for a lathe work center. Oil wont soak in or damage it, and it is easy to wipe clean. I shouldn't be doing any beating 'n banging on it, I have other places for that. If mounted to a firm substrate, laminate will take some abuse, so I decided to use MDF, two 3/4" layers glued together. To accommodate the ridge along the back and sides, and between the boxes, I will rout grooves This may be all I need to keep the top in place. The weight of the top itself, and the lathe on it, should keep it anchored on those ridges. I will decide if it needs any screws from below after it is built and loaded.

Enough of an introduction, I will get into construction next.
jp
 
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KenC

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I someone ever asks me 'what is project creep', I'm gonna refer them to this post!
 
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soj

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I started with a full sheet of 3/4" MDF & cut out a 24" X 82" piece, giving about a 3" overhang on all sides. I set it on top of the tool box assembly and centered it up. Then, from the underside, I traced the edges of the raised edge across the back and ends, and marked where the side cabinets met the center cabinet. Also traced the short raised edges at the front corners of each cabinet. Flipped it over and joined the marks for the front to back grooves.

View media item 79496
I used a 1/2" bit for all the front to back grooves, a 3/8" bit for the long groove across the back, and a 1/8" bit for the little short ones in the front. I was trying for a close fit, so it couldn't move if not bolted in place.

I used a straightedge (ez smart saw guide) to guide the cuts:

View media item 79499View media item 79500
Following the carpenters measuring rule (measure twice, cut once) it fit on the first try. There is no movement side to side, about 1/16" front to back on one end and it just barely moves on the other end.
View media item 79501
View media item 79503
The tallest ridge is the ones on the side cabinets. It sticks up almost 3/4". I didn't want to cut all the way through the MDF, so I added 3/8" pieces of plywood to set the top on. This reduced the depth of cut to 3/8". I went about a 1/16" deeper to make sure there was clearance and the top is resting on the plywood, not on the raised edges.
View media item 79505
Since the side cabinets hook on top of the main cabinet, it also raises the top of the side cabinets higher than the main cabinet top surface. You can see the difference in the space between the plywood and the straightedge.
View media item 79497
It is not much, but would result in the top only being supported on each end, and it would sag in the middle until it rested on the center cabinet. This doesn't require a dead flat surface, but one reason I am using MDF is its initial flatness, so no need to warp a good board. After some measuring and ciphering I found that the rubber mat that comes with the center cabinet would make up the difference. You can see it under the plywood on the right.

View media item 79498
I will probably paint the exposed edge of the plywood. Edit: I covered them with red duct tape.

View media item 79504
I am trying to decide whether or not to put a raised lip across the back edge. Something 4-6" high. I plan to put a radius on the front corners.
jp
 
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WILD-BILL

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I assume your quick change tool post kit came with the same A2Z tool post that mine did for my Atlas 6 lathe yes?

If so and you haven't seen them they have a value pack of tool holders for the other cutting tools so you don't have to swap tools in the holders.

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3825&category=

I got them for xmas this year and has made my turning a lot more fun. I only needed 3 to complete my carbide tools and use the fourth for various hand ground HSS tools where I don't mind having to find center.
 
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soj

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I assume your quick change tool post kit came with the same A2Z tool post that mine did for my Atlas 6 lathe yes?

If so and you haven't seen them they have a value pack of tool holders for the other cutting tools so you don't have to swap tools in the holders.

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3825&category=

I got them for xmas this year and has made my turning a lot more fun. I only needed 3 to complete my carbide tools and use the fourth for various hand ground HSS tools where I don't mind having to find center.

Yes, it is the same tool post, just a different mounting bolt. I initially got this set, but soon realized more holders for the carbide cutters would put the quick back in quick change. So I went back and got the 4 piece set you linked to. Now, like you, I have 6 total, one for each carbide tool and one for a hand ground tool, like you mentioned. Overkill probably, but I am all about convenience.
jp
 
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soj

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Best garage post of the year happened on the last day of the year. This is awesome.

I was saving the best for the last! :beer:

Glad you like it. But, what is it that you like, the top I am building, or the project creep/tool purchase journey that created the need to build the top??? :dunno:
jp
 

dewalt378g

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I am trying to decide whether or not to put a raised lip across the back edge. Something 4-6" high. I plan to put a radius on the front corners.
jp


Don't know what you intend to do with that lip, but since you're making this a lathe station/ work surface you might want to add a 1/4" to 3/8" lip all around the whole thing. Chances are you're going to have tools, tooling, parts, and assemblies all over while you're working and that real estate will get used up quick. A small lip will keep all those bibs and bobs from rolling off all over the place.
 
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soj

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Don't know what you intend to do with that lip, but since you're making this a lathe station/ work surface you might want to add a 1/4" to 3/8" lip all around the whole thing. Chances are you're going to have tools, tooling, parts, and assemblies all over while you're working and that real estate will get used up quick. A small lip will keep all those bibs and bobs from rolling off all over the place.

I was thinking something across the back to keep "stuff" from getting pushed back too far and falling off. I am not sure this will always be pushed against a wall, so this would give me a mini "wall" where ever it is placed.

Since I will be covering the top with laminate (Formica) I am not sure how I could add a short lip to the front and sides. At least not without a lot of extra work. I guess I will take my chances on the other three sides. I have already started making a back splash, to borrow a kitchen term. Just 4" high.

Thanks for the input.
jp
 

dewalt378g

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Oh right. If you are going to lam the top then band the sides with some thin aluminum flat stock (or whatever). Almost any thin material will do and will let you make up your rounded corners with almost no effort. If a hard edge like metal isn't your bag, then use some stiff rubber or rubbery plastic.

And since this project is getting so wonderfully out of hand :thumbup: , you might want to add a machine lamp while your at it.
 

dewalt378g

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OR route a cove into the top edge (removing the corner) and fasten some kind of flexible tubing or pipe into the cove.....

you can still lam the rest of the exposed edge if you want to neat it up.
 

WILD-BILL

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You may like what I did for a tool holder rack then.....

toolholder_00008_zpsd3b9fa03.jpg

toolholder_00009_zps05de2fc0.jpg

Lathe_00001_zpsspbmmilb.jpg


Pretty simple. I used thin aluminum angle cut to fit the dove tail slot. Rivited that to a 1/8 aluminum flat bar mounted to an existing stud on the lathe.
 
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soj

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I'm liking your entire train of thought. Seems perfectly logical. :beer:

Yep, one thing leads to another, to another... hopefully it will never end! ;)

Terry, I did not know you were on GJ, glad to see you here. I remember you from Sawmill Creek and cyclone building. I just checked out your shop tour, hasn't changed much from years ago, still clean as a pin.
jp
 
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soj

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Oh right. If you are going to lam the top then band the sides with some thin aluminum flat stock (or whatever). Almost any thin material will do and will let you make up your rounded corners with almost no effort. If a hard edge like metal isn't your bag, then use some stiff rubber or rubbery plastic.

Ok, I stand corrected, it can be done. I have even used an aluminum trim years ago on a 3/4" thick top, but I had forgotten about that.

And since this project is getting so wonderfully out of hand :thumbup: , you might want to add a machine lamp while your at it.

Oh, I have to have some kind of light, can't work in the dark you know.

OR route a cove into the top edge (removing the corner) and fasten some kind of flexible tubing or pipe into the cove.....

you can still lam the rest of the exposed edge if you want to neat it up.

I could see a rubber or vinyl edge could even be added later if needed. I will keep that in mind, thanks.
jp
 
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soj

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You may like what I did for a tool holder rack then.....

Lathe_00001_zpsspbmmilb.jpg


Pretty simple. I used thin aluminum angle cut to fit the dove tail slot. Rivited that to a 1/8 aluminum flat bar mounted to an existing stud on the lathe.

I do like it! I have mine in one of the tool box drawers, but it looks like your setup makes quick change even quicker. My project creeps again...

I really like the looks of that lathe, a great patina that can only come with age and use.

You might want to slow your chuck down when using cutting fluid. Either that or get a taller splash guard on the wall... just saying. :lol_hitti
jp
 

dewalt378g

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Wild-Bill I love the oily rooster tail on the wall. I've got one too :beer:

and a couple matching shirts......
 
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machine_punk

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I like the way you think! $1500ish in tools later, you have (8) something(s) you could have bought at the hardware store for $15. I thought I was bad.

Happy New Year.
Kev
 
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soj

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About all I did today was get the top glued together. Since I decided to put a lip/back splash/guardrail/whatever across the back, and only had 49" long MDF scraps, I used a dado set to cut 6" half laps in a couple of strips. That is them being glued together at the back of the top. They are not being glued to the top. They are only there to keep them straight. I will fasten it to the back edge later.
View media item 79506
You never have enough clamps. I guess I should get some more...

The half lap joint.
View media item 79507
Happy New Year to everyone at GJ. :beer:
 
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WILD-BILL

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For a machine lamp, might I suggest an atriculated magnifying lamp. That's the white "arm" you see to the right rear of the lathe bench. Not sure what your dials are like but the Atlas has tiny dials with even smaller graduations so it really helps.

Thanks for the comment on my lathe BTW. I know she aint as pretty as some of the others on here and I really would like to "restore" it some day but I do enjoy making chips and taking it out of service for any time would hinder my "play time" :D

Besides, I'm currently in the process of tweaking the weak links out of as best I can. I've replaced both gibs for the compound and cross slide with aluminm gibs and I just got the material to try and make a heavier T nut for the tool post and a new handle for the compound.


 
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soj

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Nice job on the rollers and associated stuff!

Thanks, it was my first attempt at any machine work. I was kinda proud how they turned out... oooh, I made a pun!:D With one exception. One of the roller bores was too small, and instead of stopping when it was hard to press the bearing in, I cranked down on it and busted the bearing. I didn't buy any extra bearings, so had to reuse one of the old plastic rollers.

Told the wife what project creep was.

She quipped that there was only one creep involved with my projects....!:wtf:

Bill

One of those words with multiple, unrelated meanings. I had no idea I was starting a creepy thread. :scared:
jp
 
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soj

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For a machine lamp, might I suggest an atriculated magnifying lamp. That's the white "arm" you see to the right rear of the lathe bench. Not sure what your dials are like but the Atlas has tiny dials with even smaller graduations so it really helps.

I have one of those lamps, but had no where to clamp it to the tool box where the lathe was. I put a step ladder behind the tool box and clamped the light to that. I may add a bracket to the top I am building and hang an LED shop light or two from that.
jp
 

dewalt378g

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So... I am guessing my planned little 4" "back splash" ain't gonna cut it??? :dunno:

Your machine already has a splash on it and fairly close. I don't think you'll have too much of a problem slinging oil off the back, more like upward and towards you.


I know you have a ton of storage there, but I just ran across these tool holder clips again on ebay for like the 500'th time. I figured you might be interested if you want to do some more "creeping" lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Quick-...683169?hash=item41a1c17021:g:QhUAAOSwbsdVKSoY


I'm really loving the new definition of creep now....
 
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soj

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Your machine already has a splash on it and fairly close. I don't think you'll have too much of a problem slinging oil off the back, more like upward and towards you.

I have already learned to stand to the side. :scared:

I know you have a ton of storage there, but I just ran across these tool holder clips again on ebay for like the 500'th time. I figured you might be interested if you want to do some more "creeping" lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Quick-...683169?hash=item41a1c17021:g:QhUAAOSwbsdVKSoY


I'm really loving the new definition of creep now....

Thanks for showing the tool holder clips. I like the ones WILD-BILL built too. I could copy his design, I have some scrap aluminum, or I could use sheet steel. OTOH, those on ebay look like he just milled them from plastic. That looks like a good learning project for a mill... maybe... I need to get a mill. The top I am building is 82" long, that little lathe is gonna look awful lonely there, all by it self. :sad: Creep, creep. Why buy a plastic tool holder when you can buy a mill and make 'em yourself?:dunno:
 

dewalt378g

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Lol, there you go.....buy a mill....I totally agree!!! Alas I don't think he milled them. If you look closely you'll see a distinct build pattern...those are not milling marks and for the shape you wouldn't mill in those tooling directions. It looks like 3D printing to me. So there you go....go ahead and get the mill.....then get a 3D printer....!!! You know you want one :)


And I might steal Wild-Bill's tooling rack as well. It's nice and simple and I know I have some angle laying around....somewhere...
 
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soj

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Lol, there you go.....buy a mill....I totally agree!!! Alas I don't think he milled them. If you look closely you'll see a distinct build pattern...those are not milling marks and for the shape you wouldn't mill in those tooling directions. It looks like 3D printing to me. So there you go....go ahead and get the mill.....then get a 3D printer....!!! You know you want one :)

I don't know HOW you know, but you damn sure know!!:thumbup:

I wondered if they were 3D printed, and I saw the (what looks to be) milling marks and concluded they were milled. But since I don't have a mill, and have never used one, what do I know. And since we are just guessing, they could be molded. :dunno:

So, of the three methods, I think I would get the most use out of a mill. A 3D printer could be useful, but not as much. But I am not getting into plastic molding.... even tool creep has it limits.
jp
 
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soj

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Haven't worked on this for a couple of days, but I got back to it this afternoon. Since I decided to put a fence across the back, I needed a way to attach it. The edge of MDF is no good at screw holding. There are several methods of fastening to the edge of MDF, particle board and even plywood. Some involve hardware you can buy, that fit in a cross drilled hole. I have cross drilled for a short piece of EMT, then drill through the edge of the MDF and into the conduit. Then hold a nut inside the conduit and feed a bolt into it. This time I decided to use a hardwood dowel in the cross hole, and run a screw into it. I had a piece of 1" oak dowel rod, and a 1" auger bit, so that is what I used.

First, to get the holes square to the top, I made a drilling jig out of MDF scraps:
View media item 79508
I laid out the hole locations 12" apart, and spaced in from the edge so the screw would go through the oak. It looks like it won't go all the way through, but that is the camera angle.
View media item 79510
Then set the jig over the hole location:
View media item 79511
Clamp it in place and make some chips:
View media item 79509
That is a piece of scrap under the counter top, to keep the MDF from busting out when the bit comes through.


The dowels are a tight fit, so I sanded a slight chamfer on one end to get them started in the hole:
View media item 79512
Nice 'n tight, no glue needed:
View media item 79513
This is the drill bit I used. The third flute makes for a faster, smoother cut than a regular auger bit:
View media item 79514
Wood Owl bit. Made in Japan. I have drilled a bunch of holes with it and it still cuts good.
View media item 79515
Also cut out all the pieces of the laminate. I guess I will get high on contact cement tomorrow.
jp
 
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soj

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Finally got the top laminated, so this project is mostly finished. It is all laminated except the back side of the fence. I still haven't decided to laminate it or not.

The edges are laminated and trimmed. Top is on, ready to be trimmed.
View media item 79518
I put a 4" radius on the front corners. Anything less than 4" requires sanding the backside to make it thinner/more flexible, and/or heat to make the bend.
View media item 79521
I used this home made radius template to mark and trim the corners.
View media item 79522
I covered the front edge of the plywood spacers with red duct tape. Much quicker than paint and hides any voids in the plies. The one on the left is thicker because it includes the rubber mat shown in post #3.
View media item 79520
Because of the rounded corners the edge is over 8' continuous and required a splice somewhere. I put it in the center of the front edge. I sanded the backsides a little short so the surface edge could fit tight.
View media item 79519
Ready for use. The left end in the pic is the closest to the actual color. The right end is under a white LED light.
View media item 79523
Looks like plenty of room for the mini lathe and a mini mill. :dunno:
jp
 
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theoldwizard1

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This time I decided to use a hardwood dowel in the cross hole, and run a screw into it.
Great idea !

Most DIYer who have no woodworking experience don't realize that a hardwood dowel is really the best connection you can make in many cases.

The best example is having to make a connection into the face of any wood (like making a bench or building a box). Temporarily connect the 2 pieces with screws or clamps, drill hole through both pieces, remove chips, glue and dowel. Strong and it won't work loose over time.
 

theoldwizard1

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Because of the rounded corners the edge is over 8' continuous and required a splice somewhere. I put it in the center of the front edge. I sanded the backsides a little short so the surface edge could fit tight.
Nice job ! You can buy matching edge banding for most laminates in longer than 8' pieces, but it you already had the material on hand ...

I trick I learned from a guy who has been laminating kitchen counter top for years. If you have to make a joint, try to put it in the center of the sink cutout. Only a small portion will actually show. To make the joint waterproof, drip melted paraffin wax into the joint, let cool and scrape the excess off.
 

Off-Street Parking

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So, of the three methods, I think I would get the most use out of a mill. A 3D printer could be useful, but not as much. But I am not getting into plastic molding.... even tool creep has it limits.
jp

You know what people are using 3D printers for now, right? They are printing plastic parts, then making plaster molds around them and casting aluminum parts in the molds! It's just like the lost-wax / investment casting method, but using the plastic instead of wax. :beer:

http://3dtopo.com/lostPLA/


Soooo.... For your metal parts, you don't need a mill... You just need a 3D printer, some plaster, some sand, some scrap aluminum... and a mini foundry furnace. :lol:
 
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