concrete floor polish product

country boy · Mar 2, 2016

Ok so i know this topic has been talked about a lot but i ran across this product.

http://concriausa.com/

There system looks to be very easy with out having to rent the high dollar equipment and high power.

you can rent or even buy the floor buffers cheep.

I got a price quote from them to do my new shop i am building 70x60 and it was $1700 and that was all 6 steps. all i needed to have was the floor buffer.

Im still looking into this product and talking to them about it.

any thoughts ?

LegacyIndustrial · Mar 2, 2016

I am familiar with products like this. A Twister pad is a similar product that we offer.
Any improvement to the surface is a plus. However, I know that similar products take many, many passes to see improvement and you need to start with a pretty good floor to begin with.

If you have the equipment and the time, why not try it?

Armorpoxy · Mar 2, 2016

We had had customers use this and they had a difficult time getting the results they wanted and they called in our Prep Crete Division to bail them out.

A floor buffer doesn't have much downward weight or strong motors to do much grinding. Agree up unless your concrete is really great and not super hard this may work, otherwise could be an expensive test.

country boy · Oct 29, 2016

ok so there site has changed .

http://www.concria.com/

But i am still looking hard into this product.

Thay have updated it some and have 3 diff levels of finishes. which cuts the price allmost is half.

country boy · Apr 17, 2017

Well i have looked at a lot of diff products and i am going to try this one out .

Got all my product on order . will post pics as i finish my floor.

SunsetsAndFriends · Apr 18, 2017

country boy · Apr 26, 2017

Got the product in fast shipping .

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country boy · Apr 26, 2017

Floor has been slick finished. No oils or any chemicals been on the floor .

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country boy · Apr 26, 2017

I started at step 3 which is for new concrete ( step 1 and 2 will expose more rocks .)

Floor buffer needs 150 lbs of down pressure .

I run step 3 , 8 passes might have been a bit much but they said go 4 - 8 so I when's 8 lol

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country boy · Apr 26, 2017

After step 3 clean up the slurry then you need to put down a defuser , let that dry then move on to step 4 pucks under the buffer

This is after the defuser.

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country boy · Apr 26, 2017

Now I am of step 4 making 4-8 passes .

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country boy · Apr 29, 2017

Got done with step 4 made about 5 passes. Got floor cleaned and letting it dry over night befor I run step 5 pads which are run dry.

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SunsetsAndFriends · Apr 29, 2017

country boy · Apr 29, 2017

Yes Step 1 and 2 works the same way as 3 and 4 it will grind the floor down more and expose rocks.

I might wish i had done step 1 &2 would prob look better, and so far i can see where i have some small low spots that dident relay rub on. but that cost i just wasent sure about .

Shaggy1970 · Apr 29, 2017

I think more prep is needed to get a uniformed look, still looks blotchy.

SunsetsAndFriends · Apr 30, 2017

country boy · May 2, 2017

Made 4 passes on step 5 dry .

Then I run a impregnated pad with little water did not get a pic of that.

Then cleaned

country boy · May 2, 2017

This is after I got the floor all clean

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country boy · May 2, 2017

Let floor dry and put 2 light coats of the sealer they sent.

The shower floor I did not polish or seal . You can see a pretty big difference in the floor.

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-Brent- · May 3, 2017

I think that's pretty decent, for sure. I'm planning on densifying and polishing my 70-something year old floor. If it came out near as good as that, I'd be satisfied. I've got a lot more work to do on mine, obviously.

Thanks for sharing.

country boy · May 4, 2017

Took a pic durning the day can see more of it's true color .

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Radix2 · May 4, 2017

I think is looks great!

Have you tested it in a corner or somewhere to see how it handle staining, oil, etc?

When I look at the website it shows the tools used with power trowels, do they still support the buffer based stuff?

I don't see any reference to the U S on the website either?. Who did you deal with to get your supplies?

jav · May 31, 2017

Looking at doing this to my 6 month old power troweled floor (4KPSI @ 25x42). I was hoping for some feedback on DIY polishing.

My floor was power troweled to a burnished finish & looked fantastic- almost polished. Then- they spayed a curing sealer that ruined the looks - the sealer made it look dull, orange peeled and milky.

I removed a small section of sealer & polishing with my granite polishing diamond disks and it came out AMAZING!!! The concrete was already extremely smooth so I used 100,200,400,800,1600 and 3000 grits (6 steps) - no densifier- just wet polish. I'm convinced this is the finish I want.

I own a commercial floor buffer- so adding some weight and using this system seems like a decent option?

Anyone know:
1) of an efficient way to strip the sealer off?
2) What grits the pucks are in the concria 3 step/6 step system?
3) how long should each pass take on a 25x42 floor?
4) How much sheen comes from the polish versus the final sealer on the concria system? (my 3000 grit polish looked more mirror smooth than the 3 step sealed pictures above- but not sure I want to invest the time and $ to go full 3000 polish?)
5) Any other DIY polishing systems out there?

TIA

John

Radix2 · Jun 1, 2017

There are many places that sell diamond disks and velcro pads to do the same thing as Concria - for ex http://www.parish-supply.com/twister-diamond-floor-polishing-pad.aspx

Generally the rec is to begin with 50-100 grit metal bond disks,densify, then switch to the resin disks to polish up to what you want. Many of the sealers can then be burnished to add sheen at the end.

katilicous · Jun 4, 2017

If you own a floor machine, have you tried crystallizing? Stonepro makes a crystallizer you dont have to use steel wool pads on that gets a pretty decent reflection. Not sure if its recommended for concrete.if you are gonna strip contact tech support of the company where the sealer was manufactured. They know the best method and product.

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country boy · Jun 4, 2017

They do support the swing machines it just takes a lot longer and for a small shop it kinda makes it easier. You could also use a walk behind machine but cost of renting that was more than i wanted to pay so i took the harder cheaper way.

When i first talked to the company i was talking straight to them then later i could not get a hold of him and they send me to this company here in the states.

Dana Kowalski, I.C.E.-GB
Director of Marketing
ARNOLD SALES
(989) 894-2931 x109

So my finial thought of the product !

So far the floor looks great and seams to clean up very well. The dirt will just push right off with a broom and a mop will clean the rest right up.

This part of my shop i have not worked on any cars or trucks due to its my man cave so cant relay get a good feel for it there with oil and grease.

I spent prob 1300 $ total + The used floor buffer $225 . But i still have product to do my next part of the concrete which is a 50 x 60.

So that comes up to $ .31 Cents a square foot not to bad.

jav · Jun 5, 2017

Thanks all- I sent Concria an email through their contact and I've yet to hear back. I have looked into other products and most were "maintenance" products for floors that had already been polished.

I did make one encouraging contact. I called a company called superabrasivew and spoke directly to the principle who was very helpful. I'm likely going to try his approach.

They Manufacture a diamond electroplated steel disc that goes under a swing machine (or high speed burnisher if run wet with a surficant- which is what I have). He's very confident the disc with it's "open" diamonds will have not trouble cutting into my concrete with no added weights. Once cut/honed, I will densify and polish with their diamond impregnated abrasive pads and finally seal and burnish.

I don't want to expose any aggregate- I just want a high polish on the cream layer and he's pretty sure that if my power troweled finis is reasonably flat and smooth already- I should be fine with this approach.

I'm still several weeks from completing all the other projects until I can actually get the floor polishing but this is where I'm leaning and I'll check in and update as I get further along.

Radix2 · Jun 5, 2017

jav said:
Thanks all- I sent Concria an email through their contact and I've yet to hear back. I have looked into other products and most were "maintenance" products for floors that had already been polished.

I did make one encouraging contact. I called a company called superabrasivew and spoke directly to the principle who was very helpful. I'm likely going to try his approach.

They Manufacture a diamond electroplated steel disc that goes under a swing machine (or high speed burnisher if run wet with a surficant- which is what I have). He's very confident the disc with it's "open" diamonds will have not trouble cutting into my concrete with no added weights. Once cut/honed, I will densify and polish with their diamond impregnated abrasive pads and finally seal and burnish.

I don't want to expose any aggregate- I just want a high polish on the cream layer and he's pretty sure that if my power troweled finis is reasonably flat and smooth already- I should be fine with this approach.

I'm still several weeks from completing all the other projects until I can actually get the floor polishing but this is where I'm leaning and I'll check in and update as I get further along.

Sorry, I sent you the wrong link to the parish supply video using a swing machine and diamond pads to polish concrete.

Worth a watch, basically the same as concria and pads are available from many suppliers.

http://www.parish-supply.com/metal-concrete-grinding-discs.aspx Video above is from this page if you click on the video tab

I'm in the same boat and trying to decide which diamonds to try and what machine. I am surprised that they think a high speed buffer (1500 rpm? ) will work, there are many terrazzo and stone floor guys that use 175rpm machines to grind and polish, usually they add some weight too. A high speed buffer does not have much gearing, so it may be tough to get the torque to turn these pucks and pads. Part of the key to making it work is to have enough pressure per unit area on the abrasive - a light machine needs small area abrasives- thus the use of the 3in pucks,

Keep us appraised of your progress!

jav · Jun 5, 2017

yes- 1500 rpm. I have my reservations but I'm told it should work as long as it's done wet and I use surficant. The mesh wheel is about $150 and I already have the buffer so that will be my first test. My buffer has a load meter as well as a pressure adjuster but everything will hinge on if the buffer can spin the mesh disc.

Radix2 · Jun 5, 2017

jav said:
yes- 1500 rpm. I have my reservations but I'm told it should work as long as it's done wet and I use surficant. The mesh wheel is about $150 and I already have the buffer so that will be my first test. My buffer has a load meter as well as a pressure adjuster but everything will hinge on if the buffer can spin the mesh disc.

Around here you can get used buffers for $150-250, and considering the cost of the velcro driver pad and diamond abrasives...it isn't too bad if you need to switch.

Can you post a link to the mesh wheel you are getting?

jav · Jun 6, 2017

http://www.superabrasive.us/index.php/products/concrete/diamond-tools/maintenance.html

the mesh screens are toward the bottom of the page after the proshine discs.

Radix2 · Jun 6, 2017

jav said:
http://www.superabrasive.us/index.php/products/concrete/diamond-tools/maintenance.html

the mesh screens are toward the bottom of the page after the proshine discs.

Here is a website with some nice pictures of different polish options - http://www.danamac.ca/polished/diamond-buff

The "diamond buff" option he shows might just be what you are trying.

concrete floor polish product

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