Local source for blasting media?

Sharpest · Apr 9, 2016

I have a 20' flatbed car hauler that I just finished building and need to paint it. The problem is that it took me a year (on and off) to build it so all the raw metal is pretty heavily rusted. Thus, I want to sand blast it before painting. A couple local places quoted me ~$600 to blast it and $1200 to blast and paint it but considering I am about $400 into it for material right now, those options aren't ideal. I have an 80 gallon compressor putting out 16 cfm, which is barely sufficient but it will do the job. I also have three sand blasters, two siphon feed and one pressurized vessel (people keep giving them to me...). I'm working out my air drying system right now but my current hang up is where to buy enough media to do the entire trailer. I know they sell black beauty and aluminum oxide at Tractor Supply but not in the quantity I'm looking for. I'll be blasting it outside in the yard of my shop which is in a commercial district. Since I will not be recovering any of the media, a cheap, one time use type is what I'm in the market for. The rust scale on the trailer is pretty light so I don't need anything exotic. Playground sand is the most appealing option at the moment but I've heard the dust it creates causes health problems (silicosis?). I have a respirator and cheap blasting hood. I've done a few small projects before but nothing of this scale. Thanks for any suggestions.

ratdoggy · Apr 9, 2016

Use the Black Beauty..
Drop a tarp under the trailer scoop it up and screen it...
Don't use sand....But still use a respirator
You are overthinking this

Streetbu · Apr 9, 2016

Playground ground sand *****. Get medium duty blasting sand. Check local hardware stores, or even concrete mixing plants. Our local plant sells it all bagged up across the state and possibly country. My work sells it too. $5.89/80lb bag. Plan on lots of bags to do a whole frame. At least 10, most likely more.

Streetbu · Apr 9, 2016

Furthermore, you may want to look into renting a blaster unit. Large tow behind compressor/blaster. Will make your life much easier and the job much quicker.

NUTTSGT · Apr 9, 2016

Streetbu said:
Playground ground sand *****. Get medium duty blasting sand. Check local hardware stores, or even concrete mixing plants. Our local plant sells it all bagged up across the state and possibly country. My work sells it too. $5.89/80lb bag. Plan on lots of bags to do a whole frame. At least 10, most likely more.

The local concrete plant also sell blasting sand here to. I think it's about $5/40lb bag. I'm about due to grab another bag of it.

Sharpest · Apr 9, 2016

My shop is literally right next door to a cement plant so this could work out awesome. Thanks guys

billspit · Apr 9, 2016

I used to buy blasting sand from the local concrete company. It is clean, dry and graded. You can usually get coarse, medium or fine. It is dangerous so you need proper PPE.

torqueman2002 · Apr 9, 2016

I would not use sand.

Learn About Silicosis
Silicosis is a lung disease caused by breathing in tiny bits of silica, a mineral that is part of sand, rock, and mineral ores such as quartz.
http://www.lung.org/lung-health-and...e-lookup/silicosis/learn-about-silicosis.html

If there is a Tractor Supply Company near you, they carry Black Beauty blasting media (Coal slag abrasives).
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives

$8.49/50#

Streetbu · Apr 9, 2016

torqueman2002 said:
I would not use sand.

Learn About Silicosis

That's also why I recommended renting the proper compressor. It will have a hood and a fresh air supply.

BillK · Apr 9, 2016

Sharp,
Cant help you as far as a source in your area for the media but I will say ........

By the time you are done the $1200 to blast and paint will sound like a bargain ! BTDT believe me.

torqueman2002 · Apr 9, 2016

Streetbu said:
.... a hood and a fresh air supply.

Good point.

There are other health concerns using coal slag media, as well as the dust given off from the material removed by the blasting process.

VocaTexas · Apr 9, 2016

Yes, sand CAN cause silicosis, but all you need to keep that from happening is a dust mask. It isn't a toxin, it is simply getting the sharp dust grains into the lungs that does the damage. I live where they mine a large portion of the sand used for blasting and fraking, so I do know what I'm talking about. You can get lung damage from breathing ANY dust, whether it's blasting or if you work outside where it is dusty.

torqueman2002 · Apr 9, 2016

VocaTexas said:
Yes, sand CAN cause silicosis, but all you need to keep that from happening is a dust mask. It isn't a toxin, it is simply getting the sharp dust grains into the lungs that does the damage. I live where they mine a large portion of the sand used for blasting and fraking, so I do know what I'm talking about. You can get lung damage from breathing ANY dust, whether it's blasting or if you work outside where it is dusty.

I understand you are being helpful with your advise and it is intriguing. I looked for more information and found this from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention site. { http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/96-112/}

Please use the correct respirator.

Respiratory Protection Use of Respirators

Do not use respirators as the primary means of preventing or minimizing exposures to airborne contaminants. Instead, use effective source controls such as substitution, automation, enclosed systems, local exhaust ventilation, wet methods, and good work practices. Such measures should be the primary means of protecting workers. However, when source controls cannot keep exposures below the NIOSH REL, controls should be supplemented with the use of respirators.
Respiratory Protection Program

When respirators are used, the employer must establish a comprehensive respiratory protection program, as outlined in the NIOSH Guide to Industrial Respiratory Protection [NIOSH 1987a] and as required in the OSHA respiratory protection standard [29 CFR 1910.134 and 1926.103]. Important elements of this standard are

periodic environmental monitoring,
regular training of personnel,
selection of proper NIOSH-approved respirators,
an evaluation of the worker's ability to perform the work while wearing a respirator,
respirator fit testing, and
maintenance, inspection, cleaning, and storage of respiratory protection equipment.

The respiratory protection program should be evaluated regularly by the employer.
Type CE Abrasive-Blasting Respirators

Type CE abrasive-blasting respirators are the only respirators suitable for use in abrasive-blasting operations. Currently, four Type CE abrasive-blasting respirators are certified by NIOSH [NIOSH 1996]:

A continuous-flow respirator with a loose-fitting hood and an assigned protection factor (APF) of 25
A continuous-flow respirator with a tight-fitting facepiece and an APF of 50
A positive-pressure respirator with a tight-fitting, half-mask facepiece and an APF of 1,000
A pressure-demand or positive-pressure respirator with a tight-fitting full facepiece and an APF of 2,000

NIOSH recommends that workers wear a Type CE, pressure-demand or positive-pressure, abrasive-blasting respirator (APF of 1,000 or 2,000) during abrasive-blasting operations that involve crystalline silica.
Other Respirators

For operations other than abrasive blasting, Table 1 lists the minimum respiratory equipment required to meet the NIOSH REL for crystalline silica under given conditions. Use the most protective respirator that is feasible and consistent with the tasks to be performed. For additional information about respirator selection, consult the NIOSH Respirator Decision Logic [NIOSH 1987b]. Workers should use only respirators that have been certified by NIOSH and MSHA [NIOSH 1991b] according to 30 CFR 11, or respirators certified by NIOSH according to 42 CFR 84 (effective July 10, 1995).

Zip~Tie · Apr 9, 2016

Call this company for blasting supplies, http://clemtex.com

brownbagg · Apr 9, 2016

harbor freight has it, so does grainger

DCarr2 · Apr 9, 2016

I dunno, we always used pool sand/play ground sand for general duty blasting... if its scaly rusty, use black bueaty..

get yourself ear plugs, a good set of rubber gloves (dont be cheap with the gloves) and a decent dust mask..and a blasting helmet

wear old clothes, and have fun...

the silica dust is a big concern, if you do it every day or are doing it in an enclosed area (as pretty much stipulated by the EPA and OSHA... but your probably going to do it in your back yard... with no recapture equipment...

When it comes to sandblasting, the sky is the limit for what you can spend to 'follow Govt regulations' Like seriously...

20 bags of play sand, and go have some fun...

Oh and be sure to either park your car in the garage and close the door, or atleast 100' away, blast dust will do a number on your clear coat.

and use new sand, that recycled once sand is dustier than hell and doesnt cut very well

Sharpest · Apr 9, 2016

I'll be blasting in the "back yard" of my shop with no enclosure at all. My truck will be parked far enough away to not be an issue.

Brad J. · Apr 10, 2016

You will probably need 20 bags. Black beauty works good. I buy it from an industrial blaster in a 3k sack for 300 dollars. The industrial stuff I use is a finer grit than what Menards carries so I no longer have to clean out the pluggers. Small compressors need small tips and they plug all the time with some of the inconsistent stuff I've purchased at TSC and Menards. You will hate life when that happens. If you get some bad stuff you will spend more time cleaning the tip than blasting and it will truely piss you off.

Your in for a long process with that compressor and will wish you spent the money having somebody else do it.

DekeT · Apr 10, 2016

A heavily rusted 20ft trailer sandblasted for $600 seems like a bargain compared to what you are in for with your inadequate equipment and safety protection.

DCarr2 · Apr 10, 2016

we have found (around here anyways) that most shops do a dust off... for cheap... if you want it clean, well thats 3x the price.

I geuss i should point out that I use a 4 cylinder diesel and the exit hole on the end of my gun i can easility stick my ring finger into... 185 cfm at 120 psi...

I threw out/sold/gave away everything else as it was a major PITA... had a little brute pot, that ran on shop air... Middle of January I backed my diesel in, de-winterized it, fired it up, and blasted with the big pot in less time that i spent on the little brute... after that, that lil ******* hit craigslist.

I can clean like new metal clean, a 4-6" diameter area in about 2 seconds. literally.

59 wagon man · Apr 10, 2016

save the aggravation sand it lightly to remove any heavy rust, then por15 then topcoat it

DCarr2 · Apr 10, 2016

OOOh forgot about Por15! Excellent idea! :beer:

DO NOT rhino line it! If you ever want to sandblast it in the future you may have to literally burn it off.

NUTTSGT · Apr 10, 2016

I was going to suggest POR15 but the OP said it had some heavy rust. I figured knocking off the heavy stuff first then moving on to POR15.

rburke65 · Apr 10, 2016

Blast it AND POR 15 it!

Sharpest · Apr 12, 2016

The rust isn't what I would consider "heavy" but it is hard to quantify such things. A "dust off" blast may be viable. I've used POR-15 on truck axles before and was impressed with it but I dont know if I want to pay for enough of it to do a trailer. I have a couple gallons of XO-Rust gloss black I am planning on using. I've considered using a twisted wire cup on a grinder but that sounds like a pain in the ***.

astroracer · Apr 13, 2016

Tractor Supply carries Black "DIAMOND"... Not Black "BEAUTY". Just had to clarify that. It is a coal slag byproduct and works very well. I use it all the time.
Mark

Local source for blasting media?

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