the MODIFICATION of the air compressor

sweetk30 · Jul 20, 2016

so my little blackmax 2 stage pump bit the dust .

I scored a IR t-30 2545 unit off c-list the otherday and also got a bigger electric motor than my current one. 7.5hp motor to spin the unit.

so my current setup was a 1/2inch tube to the check valve and that's looked to be a 3/4 pipe thread in the bung on the tank . from the 1" pipe thread outlet on my new to me IR t30 I need to up the size of this sucker.

flow specs for the current one are looking to be in the teen's maybe 20cfm max . my IR t30 unit is 35cfm .

looked on granger and found this guy https://www.grainger.com/product/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Brass-In-Tank-Check-Valve-6X210 only problem is I need to change the hole size on the top of the tank from 3/4" pipe to 1" pipe. its a welded in bung with a decent amount of meat left so looks like I just need a 1" tap to hog it out .

also found this one https://www.grainger.com/product/CONRADER-Brass-In-Line-With-Unloader-12U306 its a inline unit . figure maybe reduce it just before tank bung to the 3/4 size to no extra tap work needed ? ? ? I think this one might work better for my needs maybe :dunno:

this tank is a 80gal unit . I also have a 60 gal in the other end of the shop/line for reserve use for a 140gal total capacity .

whats your guys fellings on this ?

healing · Jul 20, 2016

You did not say how many HP motor you are putting on, but if you stick with a 5hp I would leave it with a 3/4 fitting.

sweetk30 · Jul 20, 2016

sorry .

edited the info .

7.5hp duty rated continues use .

healing · Jul 20, 2016

Well then use the 3/4 and if you don't like the performance or if the pipe gets really hot then upgrade to a bigger size. What is the tank psi rated for?

md21722 · Jul 20, 2016

2545 with a 7.5 HP motor will make less than 30 CFM, about 25-28. It will make 35 at 10 HP. I would try with a 3/4" check valve or do a bit of plumbing to use the 1" if you desire. They make fittings that will take the body of the check valve and you can reduce that down to 3/4". As another posted said, make sure the tanks are rated for the pressure you want to run. I see the old one was dual stage, so is probably 175-200 and you will be OK. Check the other one. Having extra air tanks is great. I would take the outlet of your 80 gallon, put it into the 60, and then run it to your distribution system if you have the option. The second tank will act as another heat sink for hot air. You will also need a magnetic starter capable of switching a 7.5 HP motor. Something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIR-COMPRES...919413?hash=item43de17ef75:g:mjoAAOSwmrlUz9MZ. And you will need to size the motor sheave the right size for the new pump. For wiring, 7.5 HP motor has a FLC of 40A. Wire size 40A X 125% = 50A. That's #6 NM-b (Romex) or #8 THHN (in conduit). 2545 is a nice pump, good luck.

redmondjp · Jul 20, 2016

It's a bit of work, but you're going to have a kick-donkey air system when you are done with it. Make sure to do the pump RPM calculations properly, as those sheaves are not cheap. You'll need at least a double-pulley setup for that kind of horsepower.

And I would not cheap out on the motor starter - there are tons of existing compressor threads here that discuss this topic in detail.

md21722 · Jul 20, 2016

More specs on the 2545 pump:

HP: 5, 7-1/2, 10
Free Air CFM @ Max. Pressure: 16.0/27.0/35.0
Pump RPM: 500, 825, 1050
Sheave Size @ 1725 RPM: 5-3/4", 8-61/64", 11-23/64"

You will need to make sure your tank top plate is high enough to clear the 18" flywheel. A lot of the cheaper commodity compressor cuts corners and make very small top plates is one thing they do.

The Square D motor starter I linked is a good one. Talking to shops, they say they are an older and more reliable design than the Eaton/Siemens ones, not to mention the junk coming from China.

PSYKO_Inc · Jul 20, 2016

Man that T30 looks like a monster compared to the pump you took off. You may need to extend the top plate to fit the pump and motor. I'd probably use a couple pieces of 2x2 square tube to mount the pump and motor, which should also raise the pump enough for the pulley to clear the tank. 140 gallons of air and 30 cfm should be enough for damn near anything you want to do in a home shop.

sweetk30 · Jul 20, 2016

so looks like I can get a 3/4 to 3/4 30cfm rated check valve from granger .

not sure the new motors rpm spec yet . my buddys f-inlaw needs to dig out the compressor there replacing so I can come get it . its got this newer HUGE BODY motor on it . it works currently so I am going to use it .

ya got to use the engine hoist and set the pump up on the top to check fitment . I am no stranger to making brackets / plates and such . if I do need to it will be over kill for sure .

if I have to make the pump/motor sit up off the current tank plate I was thinking a new master plate with 4-6 rubber cushion mounts to isolate vibration sounds ? ? :dunno:

yes/no

and if I added the 2nd tank next to the main tank and used it to fill from the 80 to the 60 gal would it be a good idea to add in a check valve just for kicks ? ? :dunno:

yes/no

last thanks for the help so far guys its super to have people chime in who know there specific fields and or previous build/worked on stuff. :beer:

sweetk30 · Jul 20, 2016

another ? for you guys .

looks like the small air tube for the on/off switch from my old setup went from check valve fitting side port to the on/off switch .

the stuff I have seen online pics of the IR t-30 is the tube goes from upper fitting port on low pressure head down to the on/off switch .

is this going to be a problem for me ? or just hook old switch tube to new location on IR pump and run it . ? ? :dunno:

md21722 · Jul 20, 2016

Small tube is unloader to enable loadless starting. Just make the tubing fit. Don't forget the mag starter.

Aux tank. I would put valves on both inlet and outlet. You can keep check valve if desired. Check valve is part of the loadless starting. Not needed on a secondary tank.

I would connect the two tanks with nothing less than 1/2" pipe or air line. 3/4" if you can.

sweetk30 · Jul 20, 2016

ya planned on valve for 2nd tank . whole shop is plumbed 3/4 black iron so that's good .

and figured it was just a matter of redoing the small tube to the new location .

redmondjp · Jul 21, 2016

Make sure to add drain valves to both tanks - you will get most of the moisture out of the first tank, but still drain the second tank every now and again. Keep us posted on your progress. It's going to be an awesome setup. Another vote for the square-D starter - I've got one for my 7.5HP motor that I was planning on using on one of my compressors.

sweetk30 · Jul 21, 2016

been draining tanks for years now .

I do a 90 elbo off the bottom and straight pipe out to a ball valve . then a barb hose fitting and a length of old air hose so I can drain it in to a bucket and not all over the floor.

thanks for the tip .

sweetk30 · Jul 21, 2016

just a fyi guys .

good call on a few members here . I forgot to check the working psi on the 2nd tank the 60gal . it was from a single stage compressor .

its a 140psi tank . so looks like I will be plumbing in a big regulator on my system so I can set the psi on the line and to this tank at the end of the line.

I also got the 80gal tank stripped down of all the pump/motor/fan-belt guard . looks like its a nice tall mounting plate . next job is set the new pump up on top and check fitment.

md21722 · Jul 21, 2016

For what it's worth, if you can't drill with the pump in place use transfer punches or even a drill bit the right size to center punch the holes. Eyeing a center punch at weird angles can be a recipe for misalignment. Dual V belts don't like much misalignment. Try to get within 1/32 if you can.

sweetk30 · Jul 21, 2016

oh I have my ways to do this kind of stuff.

as to 2 belts not going to happen . the IR t-30 flywheel has just 1 grove .

so If I went with 2 belts it would be BIG money to buy a second flywheel .

I might be fabbing up a belt tensioner with a center pulley kind of like some car/trucks have done so I can turn the screw from up top and not have to mess with no 4 bolts and slide this or that .

md21722 · Jul 21, 2016

Oh must be an oldie to have just one belt. The standard way to do it is to slide the motor or mount the motor on an adjustable motor plate.

sweetk30 · Jul 21, 2016

ya that's 4 bolts to play with .

I am thinking 1 screw bolt and 1 lock bolt.

sweetk30 · Jul 23, 2016

test fit day today . had to get the engine hoist out and set her up top .

flywheel clears just fine. size to top looks good . width is FAT 1/2 the top hole is covered up were the air goes in to the tank . going to 90* street elbo it and make it my new outlet port . then the old outlet port that's on the side I will make my new inlet port .

motor next weekend will show up and then test fit for that on there .

might be doing a new bigger top plate to space them out a bit possible . not sure yet . wana keep it tight and neat .

md21722 · Jul 23, 2016

A 7.5 HP motor isn't going to fit on there.

Top plates for compressors these size are about 30" long x 9-14" deep.

sweetk30 · Jul 28, 2016

going up Friday to pick up the new to me extra unit to mix and match with .

he said he even found a extra pulley he has for the motor to make the combo he has now spin faster . but he never installed it .

so I might get real lucky on this purchase and get just what I need .

also got to thinking I might move the air compressor to the other side and end of shop away from general work area . keep it quiet in work area . and make life better for redo of electric wiring as I can just run a new conduit and line to that location . plus the extra storage tank would swap in to the old comp place and being a bit skinny over the 80gal fat tank I would free up a bit more work area of floor space .

1 step at a time tho . pics will be up Friday or sat for sure .

pepi · Jul 28, 2016

"I was thinking a new master plate with 4-6 rubber cushion mounts to isolate vibration sounds "

What about the hard line from the compressor to the tank, the compressor will be bouncing around and cracking that line....

sweetk30 · Jul 29, 2016

flex hose would be used then .

sweetk30 · Jul 29, 2016

well got it home today . I guess in my excitement I was mistaken .
magnetek century ac motor .

part# 6-360533-01-00
frame# D184t
1 phase
230 volt
5hp
20amp
rpm-1750
duty rate - cont

has a 4 3/4" 2 grove pulley on it now. also has a 5" pulley with it . 1 1/8" shaft single key way .

IR type 30 pump
model# 234
ser # 413134

md21722 · Jul 30, 2016

You can run the 5HP motor on your 2545 with a 5-3/4" sheave. It will run at 500 RPM and produce 16 CFM.

With that 234, and a 4.75" pulley, you are only making about 5CFM as far as I know? You could do this with a 1.5HP motor. I believe the 234 was originally used for 1.5 and 3 HP configurations.

sweetk30 · Jul 30, 2016

on the ir 2545 pump / 5hp setup .

I think I will try my extra pulley @ 5.9" o.d. it looks like its around 20rpm slower @ pump is all and still a hair over the 500 rpm mark .

this info figured from this site http://culvermotor.com/Engineering-Formulas/Pulley-and-RPM-Calculator.html

hope I am measuring the pulley size correctly . outside dia or the pulley NOT down in the grove . :dunno:

md21722 · Jul 30, 2016

Bigger sheaves turn the pump faster.

OD is where is the measurement is taken.

Sheave size = (desired pump RPM) / (motor speed) * (pump flywheel OD)

The 5.75" number I quoted is straight from the specifications for the 2545. I did not compute it.

Finky198 · Jul 30, 2016

The rubber mounts are worth the time if you have it apart already. We have a IR2475 at the shop that has rubber buffers for the motor, pump, and tank. I have to say the difference in operating noise is significant.... It def makes a nicer work environment.

I just used 3/16 rubber conveyor belt cut to fit underneath the motor and pump feet and 5/8 rubber conveyor belt under the tank feet with 1/2 redheads anchors and rubber and steel washers. it is very quiet

I can stand next to it and hold a normal conversation without being bothered by the noise...

sweetk30 · Jul 30, 2016

here the pair is now in mockup stage .

going to 2 a pair of mounting plates 1 per to hold motor and pump then bolt to old top plate . this will make it a little more spread out and let me do like the post above did and add in a few rubber strips for vibration noise insulation .

they looks neat sitting there as a pair.

ir t30 234 model with my old 2 stage motor to spin it . spl on tag for hp rating ?? makes you think its not a true 6.5 like the main tag says for people to see and buy .

ir t30 2545 model with BIG motor to spin it . 5hp on tag

Finky198 · Jul 30, 2016

NICE ^^^ that's exactly what I would like to do... Add a second 2475 to the mix and go from 24 cfm to 48 cfm on demand...

md21722 · Jul 30, 2016

Looking good. What is the amp draw on the SPL motor?

If its around 15A then its a 3HP
If its around 23A then its a 5HP

Nobody really makes a 6.5 HP motor.

SPL is "special"

I know you linked in a website for sheave sizes. I don't find that helpful because the calculation is relatively easy. I use those more for determining belt length. Distance between the centerline of the shafts and size of the pulleys. When calculating, remember you need to be able to move the motor closer to the load to remove the pulley...

sweetk30 · Jul 31, 2016

22-23 amp range was on the motor tag. so I guess they lied to us on the 6.5hp tag on the whole unit.

sweetk30 · Aug 1, 2016

can you use this style check valve installer sideways ? reason I ask is you almost often see them straight down from the top . http://www.ebay.com/itm/201161641035?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

just wana make sure before I order thanks.

sweetk30 · Aug 2, 2016

got to digging on pulley sizes and specs . ( thanks md21722 ) and the belt size my old 234 has is 1/2" 4L series wide . if used on the now more common 5/8" 5Lseries wide pulley the o.d. would have droped big time for the depth of the seating of the belt in the grove .

so I dug this handy chart up http://www.masterdrives.com/sheaves/Bored to Size Sheaves.pdf

did my reading and I needed a pulley a bit bigger to get me back up in dia. . got 1 ordered and on its way today . ordered a bk series solid pulley .

next I ordered 2 new check valves . 1 - 1/2" 20cfm unit for the smaller tank/pump unit. 1 - 3/4" 30cfm unit for the bigger unit , and @ 5hp/16cfm or 7.5hp/27cfm I am covered.

also got me 2 new fresh pop off valves to replace the old ones . cheep insurance . .

just got to get my plate steel to fab up my new top plates . then some plumbing for the outlet of comp high side to tank check valve inlet.

Trey T · Aug 2, 2016

post a vid when you get it running

sweetk30 · Aug 3, 2016

got the cut order sent in today at buddys shop for my 2 new top plates . 1/4" steel and same size center check valve pass threw hole cut in them .

also dug out my rubber belt material .

Finky198 · Aug 3, 2016

Nice man

sweetk30 · Aug 4, 2016

idea ?

would it be a bad thing to swap sides with the motor / pump to get my pump outlet closer to its new side inlet position ?

as long as the direction of spin was the same on the motor to pump when swapped .

sweetk30 · Aug 4, 2016

another idea/question .

since rubber mounting the new main plate to the tanks plate would it be wise to get a high pressure / temp air hose to link the pump output to the check valve input ?

I am thinking yes . . . . but coming up with little in basic searches on line for 1" stuff on the bigger 2545 pump to tank .

lots of hose rated up in the low to mid 200* range . and I have read on here and other places our output to tank can get up in the 300* range at times.

I would hate to have the hose plow out with low hr use .

thanks guys

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